Date   

Re: Clover House Chalk Marks

Tim O'Connor
 

Peter

decals should be applied prior to Dullcote

over Dullcote your best bets

    (1) fine artist's pencils (e.g. PrismaColor)
    (2) Gelly Roll fine & medium WHITE ink pens

Tim

On 5/26/2019 10:43 AM, peteraue via Groups.Io wrote:
I am looking for guidance because I'd much rather use dry transfer chalk marks than decals. Though my car sides have a fresh flat Dullcote finish I cannot get my Clover House chalk marks to stick to?? the surface. Besides various hardness pencils, I've tried every suitable device in my arsenal with absolutely no luck. Sometimes, a part of the chalk mark sticks but then the other part doesn't come off the carrier paper. Is there a degradation of the adhesive with age? My dry transfer sheets are a few years old. What am I doing wrong?

Peter Aue
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Clover House Chalk Marks

peteraue
 

I am looking for guidance because I'd much rather use dry transfer chalk marks than decals. Though my car sides have a fresh flat Dullcote finish I cannot get my Clover House chalk marks to stick to?? the surface. Besides various hardness pencils, I've tried every suitable device in my arsenal with absolutely no luck. Sometimes, a part of the chalk mark sticks but then the other part doesn't come off the carrier paper. Is there a degradation of the adhesive with age? My dry transfer sheets are a few years old. What am I doing wrong?

Peter Aue


Re: Printing White Decals was Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

Jeff
 

There are several custom decal people out there (it is sort of a
cottage industry, yes). The person I use is Bill Brillinger at
http://pdc.ca

On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 7:31 AM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@hotmail.com> wrote:

Sounds like a possible cottage industry printing white decals – provide the artwork file and the entrepreneur prints and returns the decals for a reasonable fee. This looks like a great way to print white reweigh and repack dates and locations, road number options, return to stencils, loading instructions, MOW decals, and many other decals not otherwise available. Any interest out there?



Nelson Moyer



From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Jon Miller
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 9:18 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering



On 5/26/2019 6:49 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

I’ve heard about ghost white toner

I also read up on the various white toners. What I read was a dedicated machine. However when I saw the price I quickly dropped the subject!:-D

--

Jon Miller

For me time stopped in 1941

Digitrax Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User

SPROG User

NMRA Life member #2623

Member SFRH&MS



--
Jeff Shultz
http://www.shultzinfosystems.com
A railfan approaches a grade crossing hoping that there will be a train.


Printing White Decals was Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

Nelson Moyer
 

Sounds like a possible cottage industry printing white decals – provide the artwork file and the entrepreneur prints and returns the decals for a reasonable fee. This looks like a great way to print white reweigh and repack dates and locations, road number options, return to stencils, loading instructions, MOW decals, and many other decals not otherwise available. Any interest out there?

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Jon Miller
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 9:18 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

 

On 5/26/2019 6:49 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

I’ve heard about ghost white toner

    I also read up on the various white toners.  What I read was a dedicated machine.  However when I saw the price I quickly dropped the subject!:-D

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
SPROG User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS

 


Re: Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 5/26/2019 6:49 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:
I’ve heard about ghost white toner

    I also read up on the various white toners.  What I read was a dedicated machine.  However when I saw the price I quickly dropped the subject!:-D

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
SPROG User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

Nelson Moyer
 

Super Clean is a mild alkali with less than 5% by volume sodium hydroxide. It’s has a low vapor pressure so it’s not highly volatile like organic solvents, e.g. acetone, lacquer thinner, etc., and respiratory protection isn’t required. It’s safe to use in an enclosed environment. Skin/eye protection is important. I wear nitrile gloves and my glasses, and that’s sufficient.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Garth Groff
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 3:39 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

 

Friends,

A safety data sheet  on Super Clean Degreaser can be found at https://www.superclean.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/2016-SuperClean-Degreaser-SDS-v2.0.pdf . The product is corrosive to metals, and thus also to skin. Gloves and face/eye protection are recommended. I would use this stuff on the patio to allow quick vapor dispersal. (I do this with acetone/lacquer/nail polish remover which I use in making arrows).

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


Re: Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

Nelson Moyer
 

I have to give credit where it’s due. Jerry Hamsmith told me about Super Clean. He uses it to strip paint from Accurail hoppers as the first step in kitbashing them into CB&Q HK-10s. I’ve tried it once. I soaked the car for a couple of hours and the lettering came off when I gently brushed the sides with a soft toothbrush, but the paint remained intact. Since I wanted to strip the paint as well, I soaked it overnight and brushed it again. Nothing happened. After two days of soaking, the paint started to soften a little, and I was able to remove most of it, but not all. Finally after four days of soaking and brushing, I was able to completely remove all of the paint. I had tried soaking in 91% isopropanol for days, but that didn’t touch either the lettering or the paint.

 

 

Cotton swabs are mildly abrasive when you rub the car, so that’s probably why you saw color in the swab. Try soaking for 1-2 hr. and gently brushing, and the lettering should come off easily, leaving the base color untouched. Of course, that only applied when you want to remove all of the lettering. You’ll have to experiment with selective letter removal, Maybe cutting a patch of paper towel to cover the lettering you want to remove and keeping it wet longer before scraping would work better than rubbing with a swab. I’ve cut ends off toothpicks at an angle to make a chisel for scraping small lettering.

 

I’ve heard about ghost white toner, but never tried it. Do you need a dedicated laser printer, or can you switch back and forth between black and white toner in the same printer?

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of A&Y Dave in MD
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 10:36 PM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

 



Nelson,

I went to the Dollar Store today and picked up a bottle of this stuff.  Poured a small amount into a cup leftover from Nyquil.  Dipped a cotton swab in the solution to wet the tip without drenching it. Applied the damp tip to the number on a Kadee boxcar (one of the new Southern ones I got yesterday).  Less than two minutes of scrubbing showed the numbering was coming off.  Within five minutes the number was gone.  The paint color could be seen on the swab, so it would remove the paint if you aren't careful.  I used the dry end of the cotton swab to wipe the area clean after the numeral was off.  I'm going to let it dry.  I probably should have washed it with water to ensure no further loosening of the paint.  But with the minimal amount of cleaner on the swab it seemed to evaporate fairly quickly.

It is much harder to remove the numeral on the end, but only because the size is so small and the contours of the end make it difficult to rub a swab.  I'll experiment with a toothpick and/or a microbrush later, once the sides are dried and sealed.

So Super Clean degreaser works on Accurail and Kadee lettering!  And at $1 for a 20 oz. bottle, I have a lifetime supply.  Nice!

I'll use my Ghost White Toner to print the new numerals.  The Kadee car apparently only came in one number so far.  I ordered two cars, hoping for two numbers.  This thread was timed well!   The car is a '48 build, so this will be for the FCSME 1955 era layout instead of my '34 era home layout. The car was well done and even though I have a ton of '55 era cars these were too good to pass up for this "y'all road" modeler.   Maybe I'll use the degreaser to remove the packing year and replace that for '53 or so.  

Thanks Nelson!

Dave Bott


Re: Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Friends,

A safety data sheet  on Super Clean Degreaser can be found at https://www.superclean.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/2016-SuperClean-Degreaser-SDS-v2.0.pdf . The product is corrosive to metals, and thus also to skin. Gloves and face/eye protection are recommended. I would use this stuff on the patio to allow quick vapor dispersal. (I do this with acetone/lacquer/nail polish remover which I use in making arrows).

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

On 5/25/19 11:35 PM, A&Y Dave in MD wrote:


Nelson,

I went to the Dollar Store today and picked up a bottle of this stuff.  Poured a small amount into a cup leftover from Nyquil.  Dipped a cotton swab in the solution to wet the tip without drenching it. Applied the damp tip to the number on a Kadee boxcar (one of the new Southern ones I got yesterday).  Less than two minutes of scrubbing showed the numbering was coming off.  Within five minutes the number was gone.  The paint color could be seen on the swab, so it would remove the paint if you aren't careful.  I used the dry end of the cotton swab to wipe the area clean after the numeral was off.  I'm going to let it dry.  I probably should have washed it with water to ensure no further loosening of the paint.  But with the minimal amount of cleaner on the swab it seemed to evaporate fairly quickly.

It is much harder to remove the numeral on the end, but only because the size is so small and the contours of the end make it difficult to rub a swab.  I'll experiment with a toothpick and/or a microbrush later, once the sides are dried and sealed.

So Super Clean degreaser works on Accurail and Kadee lettering!  And at $1 for a 20 oz. bottle, I have a lifetime supply.  Nice!

I'll use my Ghost White Toner to print the new numerals.  The Kadee car apparently only came in one number so far.  I ordered two cars, hoping for two numbers.  This thread was timed well!   The car is a '48 build, so this will be for the FCSME 1955 era layout instead of my '34 era home layout. The car was well done and even though I have a ton of '55 era cars these were too good to pass up for this "y'all road" modeler.   Maybe I'll use the degreaser to remove the packing year and replace that for '53 or so.  

Thanks Nelson!

Dave Bott

Friday, May 24, 2019, 1:57:18 AM, you wrote:

Super Clean degreaser will lift lettering from Accurail cars in less than two hours without affecting the paint – unless you soak cars for a week and scrub hard with a toothbrush. I haven’t tried to selectively remove lettering or used it on Walthers cars.
 
Nelson Moyer






You are receiving this email because you are subscribed to main@RealSTMFC.groups.io via dbott@.... You can unsubscribe here.



--
David Bott

Sent from David Bott's desktop PC
 
--
____________________________
David Bott, modeling the A&Y in '34


passenger car kits

 

Is it acceptable to offer for sale steam era HO scale passenger car kits?  If not here, please advise as to where.   Hugh T Guillaume


Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering

A&Y Dave in MD
 



Nelson,

I went to the Dollar Store today and picked up a bottle of this stuff.  Poured a small amount into a cup leftover from Nyquil.  Dipped a cotton swab in the solution to wet the tip without drenching it. Applied the damp tip to the number on a Kadee boxcar (one of the new Southern ones I got yesterday).  Less than two minutes of scrubbing showed the numbering was coming off.  Within five minutes the number was gone.  The paint color could be seen on the swab, so it would remove the paint if you aren't careful.  I used the dry end of the cotton swab to wipe the area clean after the numeral was off.  I'm going to let it dry.  I probably should have washed it with water to ensure no further loosening of the paint.  But with the minimal amount of cleaner on the swab it seemed to evaporate fairly quickly.

It is much harder to remove the numeral on the end, but only because the size is so small and the contours of the end make it difficult to rub a swab.  I'll experiment with a toothpick and/or a microbrush later, once the sides are dried and sealed.

So Super Clean degreaser works on Accurail and Kadee lettering!  And at $1 for a 20 oz. bottle, I have a lifetime supply.  Nice!

I'll use my Ghost White Toner to print the new numerals.  The Kadee car apparently only came in one number so far.  I ordered two cars, hoping for two numbers.  This thread was timed well!   The car is a '48 build, so this will be for the FCSME 1955 era layout instead of my '34 era home layout. The car was well done and even though I have a ton of '55 era cars these were too good to pass up for this "y'all road" modeler.   Maybe I'll use the degreaser to remove the packing year and replace that for '53 or so.  

Thanks Nelson!

Dave Bott

Friday, May 24, 2019, 1:57:18 AM, you wrote:

Super Clean degreaser will lift lettering from Accurail cars in less than two hours without affecting the paint – unless you soak cars for a week and scrub hard with a toothbrush. I haven’t tried to selectively remove lettering or used it on Walthers cars.
 
Nelson Moyer






You are receiving this email because you are subscribed to main@RealSTMFC.groups.io via dbott@.... You can unsubscribe here.



--
David Bott

Sent from David Bott's desktop PC
 
--
____________________________
David Bott, modeling the A&Y in '34


Re: Sunshine XM-30

Nelson Moyer
 

I'll send the PDF.

Nelson Moyer

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Brian Carlson via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 8:21 PM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Sunshine XM-30

I purchased a sunshine XM 30 (kit 17.16) from a friend. It is missing the PDS, does anyone have the PDS they could send me a PDF. Email is prrk41361 at yahoo dot com.

Brian J. Carlson


Sunshine XM-30

Brian Carlson
 

I purchased a sunshine XM 30 (kit 17.16) from a friend. It is missing the PDS, does anyone have the PDS they could send me a PDF. Email is prrk41361 at yahoo dot com.

Brian J. Carlson


Re: NYC X29

Seth Lakin
 

Other drawings in the society’s collection pertaining to the lot 504-B are Drawing X-39696-A General Arrangement 6’-0” Side Door and Drawing 60178 Lettering 40’6” All Steel Box Lot 503-B and 504-B. 

Seth


Re: NYC X29

Seth Lakin
 

The New York Central drawing Q-53566 details the General Arrangement for AB Brake Equipment on the lot 504-B boxcars. The drawing is available from the NYCSHS. 

The photo of the brake equipment on the NYC car in the S-Scale Resource magazine that Doug references is different than the drawing. The air reservoir is located at the edge of the car body and the brake cylinder is on the other side of the main frame beams. 

The photo in the society’s online photo archive of the lot 504-b is of the composite builder’s photo shown in the S-Scale Resource magazine. 

Seth Lakin
Michigan City IN
NYCSHS Modelers Committee member 


Re: housekeeping

Paul Krueger
 

Or donate to Pacific Northwest Railroad Archive in Burien, WA.  www.prnrarchive.org

Then anyone can publish the images, even White River if they asked.

Paul
Seattle, WA


Re: housekeeping

Dave Bayless
 

Hi Jon, I just read an advertisement from RMC Magazine. They are looking to either buy and have donated slide collections, all eras and all railroad types and categories. If published, they will include your name as owner of the collection so your byline will appear with the images. Contact Kevin Eudaly at keudaly@.... BTW, I have no affiliation or connection with White River and am not a paid publicity member. I was just thinking of donating my own collection to White River, but I like your idea of putting them on a DVD first.

Dave SilverStreak Bayless

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jon Miller
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2019 12:52 PM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] housekeeping

 

        I found some slides from long ago, most on Kodachrome.  I took them to Costco this morning to get a DVD of them.  Quite a few from Eugene Oregon when I was a teen and I used to sit and watch the hump yard.  In those days one could wander around the yard with no one bothering you.

    Some of the Empire Builder around the same period.  Maybe one or two.  When I get the DVD and can identify them better will post.  Is there any interest in the slides?

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

al.kresse <water.kresse@...>
 

Mike,


I was looking to collect enough material about car pooling at the auto plants for a C&O Hist Mag article eventually.  Cars got split up over multiple railroads . . . even if the plant was switched by the PM, etc.


That 1938 image is great.


Al

On May 25, 2019 at 10:38 AM "MDelvec952 via Groups.Io" <MDelvec952@...> wrote:

Al, Hal passed close to ten years ago. The negatives were made by a Newton resident.

Mike

 

On May 25, 2019, at 10:14 AM, Brian Carlson via Groups.Io < prrk41361@...> wrote:

Hal Carstens died in 2009. 

Brian J. Carlson 

On May 25, 2019, at 9:35 AM, al.kresse < water.kresse@...> wrote:

Mike,


Do you have an e-mail address for Hal Carstens?


Thanx


Al

On May 24, 2019 at 10:32 PM "MDelvec952 via Groups.Io" < MDelvec952@...> wrote:



Lackawanna wasn't in the auto parts business and it served no big auto plants.  We're not aware that the DF loaders were ever removed. DL&W autocars transported mostly new vehicles from factory to customer siding. Nickel Plate and Wabash were the biggest sources of new autos heading from Detroit to Eastern markets. Cars received in Buffalo were mostly forwarded to Jersey City yards and floated to Brooklyn, Manhattan and Bronx, and at team tracks across the system.

Attached are a couple of photos. The black and white photo was from 1950 in Newton on the Sussex Branch as a car was behind shoved along the loading dock at the freight house. Hal Carstens collection (he didn't shoot these; they were fuzzy box camera negatives that I printed in the 1980s.)

As for paint, some did get the Phoebe Snow billboard repaint but I've seen no photos of the Yarmouth cars in billboard paint.. After 1955 many boxcar repaints got no billboard at all. Photos of the Yarmouth cars aren't common since the main line trains moving auto loads and empties were night runners on the east end.

Hope this helps                            ....Mike Del Vecchio



-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Thur < prrtrainguy@...>
To: main < main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, May 24, 2019 10:05 am
Subject: [RealSTMFC] DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

I am trying to get information on DL&W  11500 series Auto Boxcars re-built 35-37. These cars had Auto Racks installed when built, but my question is, Were the Auto racks ever removed and the cars used for Auto Parts loads?  If so, what year were the Auto Racks removed? Were Parts racks installed?  Did the ""AUTOMOBILE"  lettering get painted out at any point or  did it remain? I was interested in Building Yarmouth Kit  YMW-115, but want to build a late 1940's version.  The Kit is lettered " As Built" Mid-1930's. I am unable to find any photo's of this car later than 1939 on line, so I have no idea what lettering scheme these cars had 1940-1950.

 Any Information would help,

 Thank You

 Eric Thur


 


 


Re: NYC X29

Doug Chapman
 


Brian,

Check out the Feb/Mar 2017 isue of the S Scale Resource, pages 53-57. The article includes 5 prototype photos and an S-scale model of the AB brake system.

Doug Chapman


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

MDelvec952
 

Al, Hal passed close to ten years ago. The negatives were made by a Newton resident.

Mike


On May 25, 2019, at 10:14 AM, Brian Carlson via Groups.Io <prrk41361@...> wrote:

Hal Carstens died in 2009. 

Brian J. Carlson 

On May 25, 2019, at 9:35 AM, al.kresse <water.kresse@...> wrote:

Mike,


Do you have an e-mail address for Hal Carstens?


Thanx


Al

On May 24, 2019 at 10:32 PM "MDelvec952 via Groups.Io" <MDelvec952@...> wrote:



Lackawanna wasn't in the auto parts business and it served no big auto plants.  We're not aware that the DF loaders were ever removed. DL&W autocars transported mostly new vehicles from factory to customer siding. Nickel Plate and Wabash were the biggest sources of new autos heading from Detroit to Eastern markets. Cars received in Buffalo were mostly forwarded to Jersey City yards and floated to Brooklyn, Manhattan and Bronx, and at team tracks across the system.

Attached are a couple of photos. The black and white photo was from 1950 in Newton on the Sussex Branch as a car was behind shoved along the loading dock at the freight house. Hal Carstens collection (he didn't shoot these; they were fuzzy box camera negatives that I printed in the 1980s.)

As for paint, some did get the Phoebe Snow billboard repaint but I've seen no photos of the Yarmouth cars in billboard paint.. After 1955 many boxcar repaints got no billboard at all. Photos of the Yarmouth cars aren't common since the main line trains moving auto loads and empties were night runners on the east end.

Hope this helps                            ....Mike Del Vecchio



-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Thur <prrtrainguy@...>
To: main <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, May 24, 2019 10:05 am
Subject: [RealSTMFC] DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

I am trying to get information on DL&W  11500 series Auto Boxcars re-built 35-37. These cars had Auto Racks installed when built, but my question is, Were the Auto racks ever removed and the cars used for Auto Parts loads?  If so, what year were the Auto Racks removed? Were Parts racks installed?  Did the ""AUTOMOBILE"  lettering get painted out at any point or  did it remain? I was interested in Building Yarmouth Kit  YMW-115, but want to build a late 1940's version.  The Kit is lettered " As Built" Mid-1930's. I am unable to find any photo's of this car later than 1939 on line, so I have no idea what lettering scheme these cars had 1940-1950.

 Any Information would help,

 Thank You

 Eric Thur


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

Brian Carlson
 

Hal Carstens died in 2009. 

Brian J. Carlson 

On May 25, 2019, at 9:35 AM, al.kresse <water.kresse@...> wrote:

Mike,


Do you have an e-mail address for Hal Carstens?


Thanx


Al

On May 24, 2019 at 10:32 PM "MDelvec952 via Groups.Io" <MDelvec952@...> wrote:



Lackawanna wasn't in the auto parts business and it served no big auto plants.  We're not aware that the DF loaders were ever removed. DL&W autocars transported mostly new vehicles from factory to customer siding. Nickel Plate and Wabash were the biggest sources of new autos heading from Detroit to Eastern markets. Cars received in Buffalo were mostly forwarded to Jersey City yards and floated to Brooklyn, Manhattan and Bronx, and at team tracks across the system.

Attached are a couple of photos. The black and white photo was from 1950 in Newton on the Sussex Branch as a car was behind shoved along the loading dock at the freight house. Hal Carstens collection (he didn't shoot these; they were fuzzy box camera negatives that I printed in the 1980s.)

As for paint, some did get the Phoebe Snow billboard repaint but I've seen no photos of the Yarmouth cars in billboard paint.. After 1955 many boxcar repaints got no billboard at all. Photos of the Yarmouth cars aren't common since the main line trains moving auto loads and empties were night runners on the east end.

Hope this helps                            ....Mike Del Vecchio



-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Thur <prrtrainguy@...>
To: main <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, May 24, 2019 10:05 am
Subject: [RealSTMFC] DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

I am trying to get information on DL&W  11500 series Auto Boxcars re-built 35-37. These cars had Auto Racks installed when built, but my question is, Were the Auto racks ever removed and the cars used for Auto Parts loads?  If so, what year were the Auto Racks removed? Were Parts racks installed?  Did the ""AUTOMOBILE"  lettering get painted out at any point or  did it remain? I was interested in Building Yarmouth Kit  YMW-115, but want to build a late 1940's version.  The Kit is lettered " As Built" Mid-1930's. I am unable to find any photo's of this car later than 1939 on line, so I have no idea what lettering scheme these cars had 1940-1950.

 Any Information would help,

 Thank You

 Eric Thur

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