I think we call methylated spirits "denatured alcohol" over here in the states

In my experience, CDS dry transfers seem to have problems with applications over gloss (Such as  Accu-Paint). Dull coat makes it workable. I agree that a slight warming helps the transfer material leave better.

-Andy Carlson

Ojai CA

Ok if you say so. I can't think of a single reason not to apply them over gloss.

Tim O

Peter is using dry transfers, not decals 😉   In my experience, dry transfers work equally well over both gloss or flat.

Regards,

Bruce Smith

Tim,

Peter is using dry transfers, not decals 😉   In my experience, dry transfers work equally well over both gloss or flat.

Regards,

Bruce Smith

After potting around with this for a few weeks, I finally got a good result.   I tried several ways of pressing aluminum foil on the outside of the door, but nothing would get the detail to show properly.   An attempt at using strip styrene was more trouble than it was worth.  In addition, I realized that the kit door had latch detail molded in which would show on the inside.  I ended up making a simple casting.   I used a similar door out of my stash and carved off the latches, etc.   I attached the door to a sheet of plastic and poured Elmer's School Glue over the door.   I poked around in it to remove the bubbles and let it dry overnight.   The next day the glue was mostly dry and peeled off easily.  I ACC's it to the kit door, trimmed the excess and painted it Floquil Old Silver.   A little rust powder, and the door was done.   

A few other notes:  The wood interior walls had to be trimmed a bit to clear the kit roof.   I chose not to use the wood floor from the interior kit because it added a layer to the car that I though looked wrong--I painted the plastic kit floor instead.    I built bulkheads at each end of the car and filled the space with BBs for weight--a normal interior weight would add to the floor height and again I didn't want that.   I have left the car unweathered and the roof unattached until I decide what the load should be and get it built and installed (a car carrying bags of flour will have different weathering than a car carrying boxes of  merchandise).  In any case, the kit went together well and I am happy with the result.  

Attachments:

• IMG_2733.jpg

_._,_._,_

On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 07:43 AM, peteraue wrote:

My dry transfer sheets are a few years old. What am I doing wrong?

Dry transfers eventually go bad. They are sticky ink printed on wax paper; pressing them against another surface causes the ink to stick to the surface better than it sticks to the wax, and it transfers. With age the ink drys out and becomes hard and less sticky and it will no longer transfer. I haven't tried this, but for small transfers like chalk marks, you might try gently warming the spot on the sheet over an incandescent light bulb and see if it transfers better warm.

Dennis Storzek

After potting around with this for a few weeks, I finally got a good result.   I tried several ways of pressing aluminum foil on the outside of the door, but nothing would get the detail to show properly.   An attempt at using strip styrene was more trouble than it was worth.  In addition, I realized that the kit door had latch detail molded in which would show on the inside.  I ended up making a simple casting.   I used a similar door out of my stash and carved off the latches, etc.   I attached the door to a sheet of plastic and poured Elmer's School Glue over the door.   I poked around in it to remove the bubbles and let it dry overnight.   The next day the glue was mostly dry and peeled off easily.  I ACC's it to the kit door, trimmed the excess and painted it Floquil Old Silver.   A little rust powder, and the door was done.   

A few other notes:  The wood interior walls had to be trimmed a bit to clear the kit roof.   I chose not to use the wood floor from the interior kit because it added a layer to the car that I though looked wrong--I painted the plastic kit floor instead.    I built bulkheads at each end of the car and filled the space with BBs for weight--a normal interior weight would add to the floor height and again I didn't want that.   I have left the car unweathered and the roof unattached until I decide what the load should be and get it built and installed (a car carrying bags of flour will have different weathering than a car carrying boxes of  merchandise).  In any case, the kit went together well and I am happy with the result.  

Attachments:

• IMG_2733.jpg

I am looking for guidance because I'd much rather use dry transfer chalk marks than decals. Though my car sides have a fresh flat Dullcote finish I cannot get my Clover House chalk marks to stick to?? the surface. Besides various hardness pencils, I've tried every suitable device in my arsenal with absolutely no luck. Sometimes, a part of the chalk mark sticks but then the other part doesn't come off the carrier paper. Is there a degradation of the adhesive with age? My dry transfer sheets are a few years old. What am I doing wrong?

Peter Aue

Sounds like a possible cottage industry printing white decals – provide the artwork file and the entrepreneur prints and returns the decals for a reasonable fee. This looks like a great way to print white reweigh and repack dates and locations, road number options, return to stencils, loading instructions, MOW decals, and many other decals not otherwise available. Any interest out there?



Nelson Moyer



From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Jon Miller
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 9:18 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering



On 5/26/2019 6:49 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

I’ve heard about ghost white toner

I also read up on the various white toners. What I read was a dedicated machine. However when I saw the price I quickly dropped the subject!:-D

--

Jon Miller

For me time stopped in 1941

Digitrax Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User

SPROG User

NMRA Life member #2623

Member SFRH&MS