Date   
Re: MEK Substitute and current plastic cements

Donald B. Valentine
 

Ed Mines wrote:

Duco cement uses acetone as solvent; it is very fast to evaporate. I've learned to use it in place of Ambroid cement which is no longer available.


    What kind of crackpot nonsense is this??? As Tim O'Connor would say, "Google is your friend".  There are dozens of
places on Google from Amazon.com to the Old Town Canoe company selling it of which I'm sure Old Town is the oldest
provider knowing something of the history of the company. Last I knew a fellow in his late 30's or early 40's by now out of Springfield, VT owned it and was occaionally sseen at some model railroad meets.

Cordially, Don Valentine

Re: MEK Substitute and current plastic cements

Tony Thompson
 

Al Brown wrote:

MEK and acetone are chemically very similar (both are ketones . . .

As you can tell from acetone's chemical name: dimethylketone.

Tony Thompson



Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

James SANDIFER
 

In photo printing, the print is exposed, then goes into a developer, then to a fixer (which stops the development process), then a water wash for 4-5 minutes. If one wants the print to have a gloss, he uses glossy paper and dries the print face down on a high gloss heated drum. If it is matte finish, it still must be dried, preferably on a heated drum, to keep it flat. 

So, water should not hurt it, but care should be taken with the softened emulsion or you can rub it off of the paper backing. Drying it perfectly flat may be a greater issue.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 2:27 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Removing mold from a railroad print

 

I like Jon's idea

Real photo paper is pretty water resistant. I would add a tiny drop of
ammonia to the Q tip + water to kill the bacteria. but i'd test it first.



On 8/27/2019 1:11 PM, Jon Miller wrote:

On 8/26/2019 2:55 PM, Bob Miller wrote:

Check with an art museum or art dealer and ask about folks who clean and conserve old paintings,etc.

    If it costs too much you might try a Q tip and water or soap and water.

-- 
Jon Miller

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

Re: MEK Substitute and current plastic cements

Nelson Moyer
 

Amazing what one extra methyl group will do to change chemical properties ;  )

 

Nelson Moyer

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tony Thompson
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 7:19 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] MEK Substitute and current plastic cements

 

Al Brown wrote:



MEK and acetone are chemically very similar (both are ketones . . .

 

As you can tell from acetone's chemical name: dimethylketone.

 

Tony Thompson

 

 

 

Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Bill Welch
 

With a good start the Boys at the Clearwater Car Shops thought it was time to report their progress to The Boss on their mixed styrene/resin project to build a model of a double-sheathed Piedmont & Northern boxcar, originally built I think for the Pere Marquette as a 1½ door or double door auto car. The vertical rib ends came from Dr. Dave Campbell. To make assembly easy I laminated some 0.005 strips of styrene to the back edges of each end.

I made the sides from Evergreen’s passenger car siding and used .125 x .125 styrene on each end where it will meet the styrene laminated on the ends. In between are more lengths of .125 x .125 styrene the length of the sides to stiffen each side. I used Testor’s liquid for this work.

Fortunately Tichy has a set of Youngstown doors (#3018) that with easy modification are accurate for this model. I used my UMM Razor Blade Saw to cut off the very top of the door—the top two corrugations—then cut the top rib from the top of the top panel. I did this for both doors, then glued them to a 0.005 substrate and then glued the small top piece back onto the door. Having the substrait made it easy to get the small piece properly butted against the door and in good alignment plus making for a strong assembly despite the splice. I put some weight on the two doors and let them cure for at least 24 hours to minimize any warping that happens sometimes when using solvents to assemble styrene. If you look closely two small white dots can be seen on each side of the doors towards the top where I have used bits of styrene to repair the raised portions.

These cars had what looks to me like a 6-inch steel side sill. I wanted to use 1 x 6 strip styrene for this to give relief under the car side. To make sure this would be a stiff assembly I made some long strips from 0.005 sheet and glued this to the back of the siding, then attached lengths of 1 x 6 to the 0.005 making sure it was firmly in contact with the edge of the siding.

Next I figured out where the doors should be located on the cars sides I had built and used one of my doors to mark their exact width on each car side. Then I cut some very thin strips of 0.005 styrene to use as Batten Strips along the very bottom of each side. I used a .005 pen to draw a line where this strip should be glued down and used small pieces of masking tape to hold these small strips of styrene in place and straight. With a 10/0 brush I applied Testors very gingerly making sure the brush was not heavily loaded with glue to prevent any distortion of the very thin styrene. I left this strip off of the area where the door will fit.

After the sides were well cured I glued an end to the left end of each side and let these two assemblies cure overnight. To act as a third hand I used masking tape to hold the two exaggerated “L” shapes together and aligned and glued one end at a time. For this I used Tamiya Extra Thin because it sets up faster than Testors.

Prior to the above step I used my caliper to measure the length of one of the sides and then compared this to the Accurail underframe. This measurement showed I needed to remove a small amount of material on each side of the coupler box and proceeded to do so. Once the superstructure was well cured I inserted the underframe into the newly assembled body. The only adjustment necessary was to shim each side with .060 x .020 styrene. On the very top end of the coupler box (or Draft Gear) I added a section of “L” styrene. I cut these a little to long and will wait to trim them to the proper length when The Boys are ready to start shaping and detailing this piece as a Buffer casting.

With the basic body assembled The Boys have started adding basic details. The original single handhold was a drop grab and about 24-inches above another straight grab was added when this started to be required. Photos show that the drop grab on the send was slightly above the one on the side so The Boys followed this pattern. To model the Gusset Plate between the two side grabs and in the same location on the right end, 0.005 sheet styrene was cut to proper width. The length was left longer than necessary to act as a handle until it was glued in place. These will have rivets harvested as needed for details.

In the next report the Boys will show off their Riveting skills. By then hopefully the CCS Mechanical Engineer Rube “Escher” Goldberg will sort out his problem cutting pieces of styrene squarely and have made progress with the Hutchins roof.

Bill Welch

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Paul Doggett
 

Bill

That’s a fine piece of work that you have done so far I look forward to seeing the next instalment.

Paul Doggett. England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Fritz Milhaupt
 

Bill-

That's really nice work. I'm very much looking forward to seeing how you continue with this- I need to build a number of these cars in their earlier Pere Marquette and Manistee & North Eastern paint jobs.

Are those ends still available anywhere? They are what has kept me from doing this on my own.

The PM had a maddening attraction to less-common boxcar ends that has kept me from tackling cars that really should make up a good part of my boxcar fleet.

-Fritz Milhaupt
Pere Marquette Historical Society

decals

Larry Smith
 

I'm building boxcars for the two narrow gauge railroads that the PRR owned.  I'm having difficulty in locating decals with a capy of 60000 lbs.  Most of the decals are for at least 100000 or in the case of the narrow gauge cars 40000.  Help

Larry Smith. 

Re: decals

Eric Hansmann
 

Larry,

 

Is there a numeral 4 you can steal from elsewhere on the sheet? The car weight might be the same size character as the CAPY line.

 

I’ve done this quite a few times to add a proper weigh date before my 1926 focus. I’ve also inverted the number 9 to make a 6.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Larry Smith
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2019 9:30 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] decals

 

I'm building boxcars for the two narrow gauge railroads that the PRR owned.  I'm having difficulty in locating decals with a capy of 60000 lbs.  Most of the decals are for at least 100000 or in the case of the narrow gauge cars 40000.  Help

Larry Smith. 

Re: decals

Thomas Evans
 

Larry - You might have to steal some lettering from early (1880's-1890's) standard-gauge sets.
Clover House (dry transfers) & the new k4_pacific decal line on ebay come to mind.
Unfortunately, I don't think either of these has seen fit to make appropriate dimensional data only sheets.

Tom

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Bill Welch
 

Fritz, the ends were cast in resin for me by Dr. Dave Campbell, I suggest looking for his "Yuma Car & Foundry" store on Shapeways for printed version.

Bill Welch

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Jon Miller
 

On 8/28/2019 9:09 AM, Bill Welch wrote:
Yuma Car & Foundry

"Yuma Car & Foundry store" 14K Results.  A few too many to weed through:-D

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS

Re: decals

Joseph
 

On a somewhat related note- I am searching for generic boxcar data to apply to the Central of Minnesota boxcars I spread around to the layouts upon which I operate.  I have used up my extras on the sunshine, weather field and the like sheets. 
Any suggestions?
Thx
Joe Binish
New Hope MN

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:58 AM Thomas Evans via Groups.Io <tomkevans=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Larry - You might have to steal some lettering from early (1880's-1890's) standard-gauge sets.
Clover House (dry transfers) & the new k4_pacific decal line on ebay come to mind.
Unfortunately, I don't think either of these has seen fit to make appropriate dimensional data only sheets.

Tom

Re: decals

Paul Doggett
 

Microscale do quite a few with general data on.
Paul Doggett.  England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 


On 28 Aug 2019, at 17:40, Joseph <Mstl852@...> wrote:

On a somewhat related note- I am searching for generic boxcar data to apply to the Central of Minnesota boxcars I spread around to the layouts upon which I operate.  I have used up my extras on the sunshine, weather field and the like sheets. 
Any suggestions?
Thx
Joe Binish
New Hope MN

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:58 AM Thomas Evans via Groups.Io <tomkevans=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Larry - You might have to steal some lettering from early (1880's-1890's) standard-gauge sets.
Clover House (dry transfers) & the new k4_pacific decal line on ebay come to mind.
Unfortunately, I don't think either of these has seen fit to make appropriate dimensional data only sheets.

Tom

Re: decals

Bruce Smith
 

Larry,

In addition to showing that CAPY of 60,000, make sure that the LD LMT and LT Wt add up to 103,000 ;)

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Benjamin Hom
 

Jon Miller wrote:
"'Yuma Car & Foundry store' 14K Results.  A few too many to weed through."

Be smarter than the app.  Filter your search by "Shops".  This gives you 91 hits, with Yuma Car & Foundry as the top one.


Ben Hom

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

S. Busch
 

 

Here is the Shapeways / Yuma Car & Foundry link listing for the Murphy vertical rib boxcar ends:

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7FNDUCAEB/murphy-vertical-rib-ends-ho?optionId=100570317&li=marketplace

 

I have bought two pair of these for use in building a Pere Marquette 85000 series car,  and I think they are VERY nice, indeed.

 

Regards –

 

Steve Busch

Duncan, SC

 

Re: decals

O Fenton Wells
 

I believe the old Walthers freight car data sheet decals had 60000 printed on them. Not sure the font, size and style will work but I probably have some if you want them
Fenton

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:29 AM Larry Smith <wooddale@...> wrote:
I'm building boxcars for the two narrow gauge railroads that the PRR owned.  I'm having difficulty in locating decals with a capy of 60000 lbs.  Most of the decals are for at least 100000 or in the case of the narrow gauge cars 40000.  Help

Larry Smith. 



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...

Re: decals

Eric Hansmann
 

IIRC, Ld Limit was not a required stencil until 1925-26. The Wt stencil signified light weight but was not presented as Lt Wt until the about same time period.

I’m not certain how the OR&W and W&W rolling stock were stenciled wife weigh data. I need to unearth my books from storage.


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:53 AM, Bruce Smith <@smithbf> wrote:

Larry,

In addition to showing that CAPY of 60,000, make sure that the LD LMT and LT Wt add up to 103,000 ;)

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Fritz Milhaupt
 

Thanks guys! I've ordered a few sets.

-Fritz Milhaupt
Pere Marquette Historical Society