Date   

Re: covered hopper grays take 2

Greg Martin
 

I agree with Jim, this the color match recommended to the PRRT&HS for the Paint committee.

I still have a bottle or two left.

Greg Martin


Why Yes I have done some modeling...

Sent from AOL Desktop

In a message dated 9/16/2019 2:50:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, jekuban@... writes:

I have used a gray called SP Lettering Gray, available from more thane one model paint supplier. This is a mid-tone gray that looks good under a weathering coat of cement color.

Jim Kubanick
Morgantown WV

--
Hey Boss,


Somehow I got deleted from this group in late May. I guess someone didn't like me. Jail is a lonely place.

Greg Martin 


Re: Kitbash Fodder

Greg Martin
 

 Hey Yuze Gize,


A good look at Fenton's photo looks like the rib in the center of the flat panels is missing. This has been something that has been debated many times with Pennsy modelers on the X 26. Richard and my brother did extensive research show that it appeared as the cars went into the shops for overhauls in or about 1934 the re-roof that were applied were devoid of the crimp or rib. This may have been the case with other roads.

Greg Martin 


Why Yes I have done some modeling...

Sent from AOL Desktop

In a message dated 9/30/2019 7:41:09 PM Pacific Standard Time, richtownsend@... writes:

Here's one: http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/


Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


-----Original Message-----
From: Elliot Courtney via Groups.Io <ecourtne@...>
To: main <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, Sep 30, 2019 7:37 pm
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Kitbash Fodder

Hello All,
I have a couple extra accurail double and single sheath wood boxcars and was wondering if anyone has some good kitbashes to work with these cars. I am modeling 1949 in the northeast.
Thanks!
Elliot

--
Hey Boss,


Somehow I got deleted from this group in late May. I guess someone didn't like me. Jail is a lonely place.

Greg Martin 


Re: Kitbash Fodder

BRIAN PAUL EHNI
 

Just happened to download a photo of the DM&IR car today.

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Richard Townsend via Groups.Io" <richtownsend@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Monday, September 30, 2019 at 9:41 PM
To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Kitbash Fodder

 

Here's one: http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/

 

Richard Townsend

Lincoln City, OR

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Elliot Courtney via Groups.Io <ecourtne@...>
To: main <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, Sep 30, 2019 7:37 pm
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Kitbash Fodder

Hello All,
I have a couple extra accurail double and single sheath wood boxcars and was wondering if anyone has some good kitbashes to work with these cars. I am modeling 1949 in the northeast.
Thanks!
Elliot  


Re: Kitbash Fodder

Richard Townsend
 

Here's one: http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/


Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


-----Original Message-----
From: Elliot Courtney via Groups.Io <ecourtne@...>
To: main <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, Sep 30, 2019 7:37 pm
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Kitbash Fodder

Hello All,
I have a couple extra accurail double and single sheath wood boxcars and was wondering if anyone has some good kitbashes to work with these cars. I am modeling 1949 in the northeast.
Thanks!
Elliot  


Kitbash Fodder

Elliot Courtney
 

Hello All,
I have a couple extra accurail double and single sheath wood boxcars and was wondering if anyone has some good kitbashes to work with these cars. I am modeling 1949 in the northeast.
Thanks!
Elliot  


Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA

George Courtney
 

Mostly likely not your area, but the L&N ran from Cumberland Gap into Tennessee back into Virginia and on over to a connection with the N&W at Norton, Virginia.  So it's has Virginia cred.

George Courtney


Re: L&N gondola, was NC&STL GONDOLA

Steven D Johnson
 

Garth,

 

You are most welcome.

 

Those gons were built as L&N 56500-56699, 40’ 1” IL, interior height of 2’2”, 825 cu ft, Universal hand brakes.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve Johnson

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Garth Groff
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 11:29 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] NC&STL GOLDOLA

 

Steve and Friends,

Thanks for your help with the gondola and the great photo. I completely forgot about the L&N, it not being a "Y'all" railroad that operates in Virginia or that I ever saw. The 4/1958 build date is almost the exact time my Virginia Midland is set in. A car from this class would look great just like the photo, delivering bagged product to Madison Farm Supply (one of the VM's main customers). The big problem is will I ever find time to build a model. We'll see.

Nice color on the sacks too.

Yours Aye,


Garth

On 9/30/2019 7:14 AM, Steven D Johnson wrote:

Garth,

 

It’s one of these ACF L&N low-side gondolas, built in 1958.  See attached photo.  I can provide series information, etc. later.  Getting ready to head to work now.

 

Steve Johnson

 


Re: Rusty rivets?

Nolan Hinshaw
 

On Sep 30, 2019, at 01:49, Garth Groff <sarahsan@...> wrote:

Scott,

How about a teeny-tiny 00000 spotting brush, some thinned rust-colored acrylic paint, an Optivisor (for those of us older than Elvis) and a lot of patience?
The Instrctables web site has a project for a low cost CAD/CAM PC board router using a hand rotary tool like the Dremel. Modify it to manipulate a paintbrush.

^<@<.@*
}"_# |
-@$&/_%
!( @|=>
;`+$?^?
,#"~|)^G


Re: Rusty rivets?

Tim O'Connor
 


I have often used colored pencils to highlight rivets... takes just a few minutes
Artist pencils are easy to use, sharp enough for tiny things, are really cheap, don't
dry out, etc.



On 9/30/2019 4:49 AM, Garth Groff wrote:
Scott,

How about a teeny-tiny 00000 spotting brush, some thinned rust-colored acrylic paint, an Optivisor (for those of us older than Elvis) and a lot of patience?

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

On 9/30/2019 12:26 AM, D. Scott Chatfield wrote:
Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding.  But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car.  I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets.  Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.

Thoughts?

Scott Chatfield


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332

O Fenton Wells
 

Glad to help.  I have more of the cars in the museum but not sure where they are .  
Fenton

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:39 PM Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:
Fenton,

  Not just a good pic for details but also a good pic for weathering effects
on board sided freight cars.  Even though the boards may have all been
applied at the same time (some would be replacements) they don't
weather at the same rate/in the same way.  I've done several flat car
decks with similar amounts of variation from board to board and they
look great.  I achieve that look by using different shades of several
colors and hand painting each board/area - always being careful to
-not- use only one shade on any one board.
                                                                     - Jim B. in Burlington, Wa.



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Thanks, guys!

It is subtle, but I drybrush with a lighter version of the base coat, either a little yellow added to Freight Car Color (X31F), or even white in the case of the Alco S4 roof; see attached. Start subtle, add more if you feel the need, after looking at it a few days.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gatwood, Elden J SAD
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 8:47 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Scott;

I am very fond of drybrushing rivets, over a background of dark rust wash in the seams and around the base of the rivets, to make them pop. See attached for example.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of D. Scott Chatfield
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 12:27 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.

Thoughts?

Scott Chatfield


Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332

Jim Betz
 

Fenton,

  Not just a good pic for details but also a good pic for weathering effects
on board sided freight cars.  Even though the boards may have all been
applied at the same time (some would be replacements) they don't
weather at the same rate/in the same way.  I've done several flat car
decks with similar amounts of variation from board to board and they
look great.  I achieve that look by using different shades of several
colors and hand painting each board/area - always being careful to
-not- use only one shade on any one board.
                                                                     - Jim B. in Burlington, Wa.


Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Steve and Friends,

Thanks for your help with the gondola and the great photo. I completely forgot about the L&N, it not being a "Y'all" railroad that operates in Virginia or that I ever saw. The 4/1958 build date is almost the exact time my Virginia Midland is set in. A car from this class would look great just like the photo, delivering bagged product to Madison Farm Supply (one of the VM's main customers). The big problem is will I ever find time to build a model. We'll see.

Nice color on the sacks too.

Yours Aye,


Garth

On 9/30/2019 7:14 AM, Steven D Johnson wrote:

Garth,

 

It’s one of these ACF L&N low-side gondolas, built in 1958.  See attached photo.  I can provide series information, etc. later.  Getting ready to head to work now.

 

Steve Johnson



Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Paul Doggett
 

Love the weathered look beautiful.


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Robert Allan
 

Great looking car - weathering is well rendered. Thanks for sharing.

Bob Allan


Re: NP R23 clone reefer

Dennis Storzek
 

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 10:16 AM, vapeurchapelon wrote:
 

 

I agree; I see a color separation here also. However, before everyone simply assumes the lighter graytone is some sort of red, keep in mind that all blacks don't necessarily match. Many coatings that would fall into the category of "car cement" were asphalt based and dried to sort of a gunmetal gray. Riding the elevated around Chicago in my younger days, I got to look at a LOT of flat roofs, and you could always tell those that were mopped with asphalt rather than tar by the color. However, in the general sense they were all black. I suspect the same is at work here; the coating used on the roof (to seal the laps and hopefully adhere better to the galvanized roof panels than paint would, doesn't match the black paint used on the ends and hardware, but this was acceptable, because the roof surface was going to be covered with soot soon after the car went in service anyway.

Dennis Storzek
 


Re: Rusty rivets?

Dennis Storzek
 

I happen to disagree with Scott's basic premise; that rivets are more likely to lose their paint than the surrounding metal, but for modeling rivets that have either been involved in a sideswipe or replaced and not painted, the solution is pretty easy, simply dry brush them with rust colored paint on one of those foam pad brushes, making sure it's dry enough that it only transfers paint to the raised bumps and not the base surface. One swipe and done.

Dennis Storzek


Re: 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

Steve and Barb Hile
 

Thanks, Ben.  I like the format with the sketches that help identify the variations.
 
Steve Hile



From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 10:06 AM
To: STMFC
Subject: [RealSTMFC] 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are posted on the MARPM clinic website.

Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967" handout:
- This is a first attempt to provide an overview of the NYCS hopper fleet.  Constructive comments, corrections and additional information are welcome.
- For information on specific lot numbers, including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot number. 
- I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own.


Ben Hom


Re: 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

gary laakso
 

Thank you for sharing the download site and thanks to all the find presenters willing to share their material with those of us who did not attend.

 

Gary Laakso

Northwest of Mike Brock

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 8:06 AM
To: STMFC <main@realstmfc.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

 

Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are posted on the MARPM clinic website.

 

Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967" handout:

- This is a first attempt to provide an overview of the NYCS hopper fleet.  Constructive comments, corrections and additional information are welcome.

- For information on specific lot numbers, including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot number. 

- I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own.

 

 

Ben Hom


Re: Rusty rivets?

 

Hmm. Maybe email the folks at Archer and ask them for some rust coloured rivet decals?

Colin ‘t Hart
Frösön, Sweden