Date   

Re: Rusty rivets?

Tim O'Connor
 


I have often used colored pencils to highlight rivets... takes just a few minutes
Artist pencils are easy to use, sharp enough for tiny things, are really cheap, don't
dry out, etc.



On 9/30/2019 4:49 AM, Garth Groff wrote:
Scott,

How about a teeny-tiny 00000 spotting brush, some thinned rust-colored acrylic paint, an Optivisor (for those of us older than Elvis) and a lot of patience?

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

On 9/30/2019 12:26 AM, D. Scott Chatfield wrote:
Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding.  But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car.  I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets.  Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.

Thoughts?

Scott Chatfield


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332

O Fenton Wells
 

Glad to help.  I have more of the cars in the museum but not sure where they are .  
Fenton

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:39 PM Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:
Fenton,

  Not just a good pic for details but also a good pic for weathering effects
on board sided freight cars.  Even though the boards may have all been
applied at the same time (some would be replacements) they don't
weather at the same rate/in the same way.  I've done several flat car
decks with similar amounts of variation from board to board and they
look great.  I achieve that look by using different shades of several
colors and hand painting each board/area - always being careful to
-not- use only one shade on any one board.
                                                                     - Jim B. in Burlington, Wa.



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Thanks, guys!

It is subtle, but I drybrush with a lighter version of the base coat, either a little yellow added to Freight Car Color (X31F), or even white in the case of the Alco S4 roof; see attached. Start subtle, add more if you feel the need, after looking at it a few days.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gatwood, Elden J SAD
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 8:47 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Scott;

I am very fond of drybrushing rivets, over a background of dark rust wash in the seams and around the base of the rivets, to make them pop. See attached for example.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of D. Scott Chatfield
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 12:27 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.

Thoughts?

Scott Chatfield


Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332

Jim Betz
 

Fenton,

  Not just a good pic for details but also a good pic for weathering effects
on board sided freight cars.  Even though the boards may have all been
applied at the same time (some would be replacements) they don't
weather at the same rate/in the same way.  I've done several flat car
decks with similar amounts of variation from board to board and they
look great.  I achieve that look by using different shades of several
colors and hand painting each board/area - always being careful to
-not- use only one shade on any one board.
                                                                     - Jim B. in Burlington, Wa.


Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Steve and Friends,

Thanks for your help with the gondola and the great photo. I completely forgot about the L&N, it not being a "Y'all" railroad that operates in Virginia or that I ever saw. The 4/1958 build date is almost the exact time my Virginia Midland is set in. A car from this class would look great just like the photo, delivering bagged product to Madison Farm Supply (one of the VM's main customers). The big problem is will I ever find time to build a model. We'll see.

Nice color on the sacks too.

Yours Aye,


Garth

On 9/30/2019 7:14 AM, Steven D Johnson wrote:

Garth,

 

It’s one of these ACF L&N low-side gondolas, built in 1958.  See attached photo.  I can provide series information, etc. later.  Getting ready to head to work now.

 

Steve Johnson



Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Paul Doggett
 

Love the weathered look beautiful.


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Robert Allan
 

Great looking car - weathering is well rendered. Thanks for sharing.

Bob Allan


Re: NP R23 clone reefer

Dennis Storzek
 

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 10:16 AM, vapeurchapelon wrote:
 

 

I agree; I see a color separation here also. However, before everyone simply assumes the lighter graytone is some sort of red, keep in mind that all blacks don't necessarily match. Many coatings that would fall into the category of "car cement" were asphalt based and dried to sort of a gunmetal gray. Riding the elevated around Chicago in my younger days, I got to look at a LOT of flat roofs, and you could always tell those that were mopped with asphalt rather than tar by the color. However, in the general sense they were all black. I suspect the same is at work here; the coating used on the roof (to seal the laps and hopefully adhere better to the galvanized roof panels than paint would, doesn't match the black paint used on the ends and hardware, but this was acceptable, because the roof surface was going to be covered with soot soon after the car went in service anyway.

Dennis Storzek
 


Re: Rusty rivets?

Dennis Storzek
 

I happen to disagree with Scott's basic premise; that rivets are more likely to lose their paint than the surrounding metal, but for modeling rivets that have either been involved in a sideswipe or replaced and not painted, the solution is pretty easy, simply dry brush them with rust colored paint on one of those foam pad brushes, making sure it's dry enough that it only transfers paint to the raised bumps and not the base surface. One swipe and done.

Dennis Storzek


Re: 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

Steve and Barb Hile
 

Thanks, Ben.  I like the format with the sketches that help identify the variations.
 
Steve Hile



From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 10:06 AM
To: STMFC
Subject: [RealSTMFC] 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are posted on the MARPM clinic website.

Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967" handout:
- This is a first attempt to provide an overview of the NYCS hopper fleet.  Constructive comments, corrections and additional information are welcome.
- For information on specific lot numbers, including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot number. 
- I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own.


Ben Hom


Re: 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

gary laakso
 

Thank you for sharing the download site and thanks to all the find presenters willing to share their material with those of us who did not attend.

 

Gary Laakso

Northwest of Mike Brock

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 8:06 AM
To: STMFC <main@realstmfc.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

 

Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are posted on the MARPM clinic website.

 

Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967" handout:

- This is a first attempt to provide an overview of the NYCS hopper fleet.  Constructive comments, corrections and additional information are welcome.

- For information on specific lot numbers, including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot number. 

- I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own.

 

 

Ben Hom


Re: Rusty rivets?

 

Hmm. Maybe email the folks at Archer and ask them for some rust coloured rivet decals?

Colin ‘t Hart
Frösön, Sweden


2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

Benjamin Hom
 

Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are posted on the MARPM clinic website.

Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967" handout:
- This is a first attempt to provide an overview of the NYCS hopper fleet.  Constructive comments, corrections and additional information are welcome.
- For information on specific lot numbers, including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot number. 
- I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own.


Ben Hom


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Scott;

I am very fond of drybrushing rivets, over a background of dark rust wash in the seams and around the base of the rivets, to make them pop. See attached for example.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of D. Scott Chatfield
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 12:27 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.

Thoughts?

Scott Chatfield


Re: Rusty rivets?

Bob Webber
 

Do the same method as some use for wood. Paint an uneven coat of your favorite "rust", apply minute dabs of rubber cement, paint and finish the top coats, carefully sand or otw expose (and remove the cement) the protruding "rivets" - as much as little as the application requires.

At 11:26 PM 9/29/2019, you wrote:
Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.

Thoughts?

Scott Chatfield
Bob Webber


Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA

Bill Welch
 

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 06:49 AM, Bill Welch wrote:
NC&StL owned no gondolas with Dreadnaught ends.

Bill Welch
Correction, I spoke before coffee, the NC&StL owned 25 65-foot mill gons easily modeled w/Athearn model and Speedwitch ends and decals.

Bill Welch


Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA

Steven D Johnson
 

Garth,

 

It’s one of these ACF L&N low-side gondolas, built in 1958.  See attached photo.  I can provide series information, etc. later.  Getting ready to head to work now.

 

Steve Johnson

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Garth Groff
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 5:24 AM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] NC&STL GOLDOLA

 

Good friends,

Attached is a photo I took of a Seaboard low-side gondola at Dillwyn, Virginia on the then-CSX Dillwyn Subdivision (now Buckingham Branch RR) around 1986. It appears to be an ex-NC&STL car, which would put it within our era of interest. Likely it was rebuilt with the sides strengthened. Any comments on its origins and original series numbers?

The car is on a short siding that served Seay Milling Co., the local Southern States affiliate. This track was rarely used by Seay, and served (and still does) as a holding track to stash cars; the Dillwyn yard being pretty small. It was likely bound for loading at the Koppers woodlot about 1/2 mile further down the line. Koppers was, and still is, one of the branch's major shippers, but their track only holds 3-4 cars. Raw ties are still loaded there and sent to an off-line creosote plant.

Stashing freight cars on somebody else's siding until needed is likely a pretty common thing on most railroads, but something we rarely do on our layouts. Something worth considering for how you operate your freight cars.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


RPM Chicagoland mini-kit

Eric Hansmann
 

RPM Chicagoland is just ahead on the calendar. A mini-kit of resin parts to upgrade a plastic freight car will be given to many early registrants. The kit and prototype are featured in the latest Resin Car Works blog post.

http://blog.resincarworks.com/2019-rpm-chicagoland/



Eric Hansmann
RCW web guy


Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332

O Fenton Wells
 

Well done Lester, with a little work an Accurail car can become a gem.  Here's a photo I took of the car in 1988 wehn Duluth was part of my territory, Enjoy
Fenton

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 6:00 PM Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote:
I have finished Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range single-sheathed Box Car 3332.  It is an Accurail  kit, number 4406.  I have included a photo of the car prior to final paint and weathering with molded ladders removed and drop grab iron ladders and other DMIR details added. If you are interested, photos and writeup of the build including paint match are now on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/
 

Lester Breuer



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA

Bill Welch
 

NC&StL owned no gondolas with Dreadnaught ends.

Bill Welch