Date   

Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: [RealSTMFC] Kitbash Fodder

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Folks;

Greg is right, the PRR X26 rebuilds got the later "no-intermediate-rib" Hutchins roof, during the mid-thirties rebuilds. People assume that when rebuilt, they got all new equipment: roof, doors, truss reinforcements, etc., but that is not the case. They got roofs, and other replacements, where needed. Many X26 carried old wooden doors into the forties. Vary your fleet accordingly: the door variants are quite interesting, esp the spliced door variants. Go to RP Cyc for details.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom
Sent: Tuesday, October 1, 2019 12:55 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: [RealSTMFC] Kitbash Fodder

Greg Martin wrote:
"A good look at Fenton's photo looks like the rib in the center of the flat panels is missing. This has been something that has been debated many times with Pennsy modelers on the X26. Richard and my brother did extensive research show that it appeared as the cars went into the shops for overhauls in or about 1934 the re-roof that were applied were devoid of the crimp or rib. This may have been the case with other roads."

Greg's comment applies to the model's Hutchins roof, though it comes across as a bit confusing as it implies that you can model PRR Class X26 USRA SS boxcars using the Accurail kit. You can't. The model with the 7/8 Murphy end is a stand-in at best as the ends and structural members are not correct for the USRA SS cars; however, all of the Accurail SS variations can be harvested for their roofs.


Ben Hom


Re: Rusty rivets?

mel perry
 

nolan:
went thru the entire paint brush category,
no luck, what category is this item
located in, there are literally hundreds
of items
thanks
mel perry

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019, 4:48 PM Nolan Hinshaw via Groups.Io <cearnog=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
On Sep 30, 2019, at 01:49, Garth Groff <sarahsan@...> wrote:

> Scott,
>
> How about a teeny-tiny 00000 spotting brush, some thinned rust-colored acrylic paint, an Optivisor (for those of us older than Elvis) and a lot of patience?

The Instrctables web site has a project for a low cost CAD/CAM PC board router using a hand rotary tool like the Dremel. Modify it to manipulate a paintbrush.

^<@<.@*
}"_# |
-@$&/_%
!(      @|=>
;`+$?^?
,#"~|)^G








Re: Doors

Richard Townsend
 

Assuming you are referring to HO scale boxcar doors: Kadee, Tichy, Westerfield, Accurail, Southwest Scale, Intermountain, etc., etc., etc.

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


-----Original Message-----
From: Armand Premo <arm.p.prem@...>
To: RealSTMFC <RealSTMFC@groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Oct 1, 2019 8:22 am
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Doors

Looking for a source for different doors.Armand Premo


Re: 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts

Michael Gross
 

So kind of the presenters to share their clinics.  Even RPM attendees can't get to ALL the clinics on any given weekend, so the sharing is much appreciated.
--
Michael Gross
Pasadena, CA


Re: Kitbash Fodder

Benjamin Hom
 

Greg Martin wrote:
"A good look at Fenton's photo looks like the rib in the center of the flat panels is missing. This has been something that has been debated many times with Pennsy modelers on the X26. Richard and my brother did extensive research show that it appeared as the cars went into the shops for overhauls in or about 1934 the re-roof that were applied were devoid of the crimp or rib. This may have been the case with other roads."

Greg's comment applies to the model's Hutchins roof, though it comes across as a bit confusing as it implies that you can model PRR Class X26 USRA SS boxcars using the Accurail kit.  You can't.  The model with the 7/8 Murphy end is a stand-in at best as the ends and structural members are not correct for the USRA SS cars; however, all of the Accurail SS variations can be harvested for their roofs.


Ben Hom


Re: Kitbash Fodder

lstt100
 

DM&IR was an early user of 3M Scotchlite reflective lettering starting in 1955 on new diesel locomotives.  Starting in summer 1959 these reflective monograms, reporting marks and numbers began to be applied to freight cars and cabooses.  Application on wood sheathed equipment involved making metal plates for these items and then applying a clear coat of sealer over the Scotchlite.  Some steel freight cars were equipped in the same manner, but by 1960, the application of the Scotchlite lettering was directly to the steel carbodies.  Data on equipment was not Scotchlite and was stenciled directly on the carbodies.

 

Dan Holbrook  


Re: Kitbash Fodder

Benjamin Hom
 

Elliot Courtney asked: 
"I have a couple extra Accurail double and single sheath wood boxcars and was wondering if anyone has some good kitbashes to work with these cars. I am modeling 1949 in the Northeast."

Which specific kits do you have?  It'll help us give you specific ideas instead of yielding a bunch of guesses that might not apply to what you've got.


Ben Hom


Re: Kitbash Fodder

Donald B. Valentine
 

  Thanks, Dennis, for proving that my memory still works pretty well even if nothing else does,
like finger dexterity, eyes and such! (-:

My best, Don Valentine


Re: Kitbash Fodder

Lester Breuer
 

Guy Wilber wrote,” .....reporting marks and car numbers are stenciled onto thin metal plates attached over the wood sheathing.”

And, I thought I had studied DMIR  photos well.  Learning makes for a great day!  Guy Thank You for pointing that detail out.  
Lester Breuer


Doors

Armand Premo
 

Looking for a source for different doors.Armand Premo


Revisiting an Older Model

Andy Carlson
 

I have had good results making very thin slices of decals and paper with a good quality paper cutter. I usually make about 5 or more slices before I get the exact width I want.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

On Tuesday, October 1, 2019, 6:56:44 AM PDT, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:


Ben, thanks for the tip but I’m afraid your hands might be more steady than mine


On Oct 1, 2019, at 8:57 AM, Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:

Fenton Wells wrote:
"I especially like the finish and the decals with the stencil breaks look very nice.  Too bad we haven't figured out how to do those in HO."

Not difficult at all.  When you paint the car, get some blank decal scraps and shoot them with the car color.  After the paint cures, use a sharp knife to cut thin strips from the decal scraps.  Use as desired after the initial decal application is fully set and cleaned up of bubbles and excess adhesive.


Ben Hom 


Re: Revisiting an Older Model

Michael Gross
 

Very nice, and what I see of the floor and interior is lovely, as well!
--
Michael Gross
Pasadena, CA


Re: Kitbash Fodder

Dennis Storzek
 

Yes Don they have a truss rod reefer and boxcar from the DM&IR displayed and several of these single sheathed cars around the property. The Soo 2-8-2 was indeed the 1003, when it was still owned by the city of Superior and stored ar the waste water treatment plant.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Kitbash Fodder

BRIAN PAUL EHNI
 

I wonder if that’s a reaction to the winters up there…

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Guy Wilber via Groups.Io" <guycwilber@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Monday, September 30, 2019 at 10:44 PM
To: <main@realstmfc.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Kitbash Fodder

 

BRIAN PAUL EHNI wrote:

 

Just happened to download a photo of the DM&IR car today.”

 

 

If you look closely at this photo you’ll see that the reporting marks and car number are stenciled onto thin metal plate which is attached over the wood sheathing.

 

Guy Wilber

Reno, Nevada 


Re: Revisiting an Older Model

Eric Hansmann
 

Thanks for sharing your inspiring work, Gene!

 

I see the roof has some possible paint failure. What are your weathering processes for this appearance?

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Gene Deimling
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 11:35 PM
To: stmfc <realstmfc@groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Revisiting an Older Model

 

Recently, I have been upgrading older model.  One such project is this 1/4” scale plastic model kit offered by San Juan Car Company.  

I added some weathering using Vallejo acrylic paints.

 

 

 

Gene Deimling 

--

Gene Deimling

El Dorado Hills, CA


Re: Revisiting an Older Model

Jim Betz
 


  ... forgot to say I especially like the roof!


Re: Revisiting an Older Model

Jim Betz
 

Gene,

  An excellent example of where less is more!
                                                                          - Jim B. in Burlington, Wa.


Re: Revisiting an Older Model

O Fenton Wells
 

Ben, thanks for the tip but I’m afraid your hands might be more steady than mine


On Oct 1, 2019, at 8:57 AM, Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:

Fenton Wells wrote:
"I especially like the finish and the decals with the stencil breaks look very nice.  Too bad we haven't figured out how to do those in HO."

Not difficult at all.  When you paint the car, get some blank decal scraps and shoot them with the car color.  After the paint cures, use a sharp knife to cut thin strips from the decal scraps.  Use as desired after the initial decal application is fully set and cleaned up of bubbles and excess adhesive.


Ben Hom 


Re: Rusty rivets?

rmink
 

I've been following military modelers and car modelers to learn some of the techniques they use that might be helpful.  One technique I have found useful and I would offer for rusty rivets is to put a few drops of paint on a piece of styrene and use the end of a toothpick to apply paint to each rivet.  This is much easier than using a fine brush or dry brushing.  I have been surprised at how much more control I have for applying small dots of paint.  FWIW

Have fun!!

Rick Mink
Burleson, Texas


Re: Kitbash Fodder

Donald B. Valentine
 

    Were some of these D&MIR cars stitting around in a yard at Duluth, MN in August of 1987? I seem to recall
seeing some single sheathed and double sheathed cars there at that time and possibly a reefer as well that
were seen when in the area while returning from the NMRA National in Eugene, Oregon that year. I've got to
find my photos and believe potos were also taken of a Soo Line 2-8-2, possibly #1003 but that's from memory,
in Superior, WI as well.

Cordially, Don Valentine