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Decal Source: K4 Pacific on eBay
San Antonio & San Francisco <sanantonio-sanfrancisco@...>
Hey Y'all,
I wanted to introduce to you a new great source for decals for early era and especially the 1910-1970 era of freight cars. I have become good friends with K4 Pacific decals. He sells them in his eBay store. He has lots of decals for your era as he focuses on the 1910-1960 period himself. He does all scales: N-S-HO-O-G-F. He creates his decals straight from car sides. These are water slide decals. The lines are very sharp and the printing is very precise. Check him out as he has many, many decals that work for y'all. Let him know Levi referred you. I do not get anything from it, but he takes care of me, so I help him out in return. His eBay id: k4_pacific Check him out! Thanks, Levi
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper / some went to Tennessee Central and TP&W(?)
Steven D Johnson
I'm glad the topic of these LV hoppers came up (again).
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I have a keen interest in them because the Tennessee Central purchased 31 of these cars from International Railway Car Co. in 1956. They became TC nos. 8100-8130. As I recall, I have a photo in my TC files, and will scan and post it when I find it. Also, TP&W acquired some (at least I assume they are ex-LV), but don't have any information on their acquisition. Just have the attached image of no. 829. Chuck Yungkurth published a short article, "Lehigh Valley's composite quad hoppers" in the August 1997 issue of RMC. Included is a photo of one of the original composite cars and one of a rebuilt car, with HO scale drawings of both versions. I have several of the Lionel and Hobbyline cars purchased at train shows or on eBay. Would like to eventually upgrade the models and decorate them for TC. Steve Johnson Nashville, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Scott Seders Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2019 7:55 AM To: main@realstmfc.groups.io Subject: [RealSTMFC] Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper Is the Hobbyline model the best starting point for this LV hopper? I wanted to be certain there isn’t a better model (injection molded plastic or resin) available that I am overlooking.
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Re: Model Help
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Friends,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
This Gilbert ad looks like their own stuff, probably near the end in the early '60s, but I could be wrong. At least some of Gilbert's original train set cars were Marx knock-offs, or were made for them by Marx (I had both as a youngster). That tank car looks like a Varney knock-off (still available in the Life-Like train set line), and the crane is obviously a Tru-Scale model, or a knock-off. That crane passed on to Train Miniature and has been in occasional production from Walthers (actually not bad as kitbash fodder). Of interest to me are their flat cars. I somehow came up with two examples of the 50' (?) flat when I was a teenager, and one of the drop center car. These were actually pretty good metal castings, if you can overlook some details being cast in place, and no underbody detail to speak of. The 50' flats did ride too high, thanks to their taglo trucks, but that could be fixed. Since they were all-metal, they rode very well. I keep an eye out for these at the one train show I still attend, but have yet to see any. Whether I would buy one would depend on evaluating how the pieces actually look versus my memory, and whether at this stage of my life I want any more projects hanging around. Yours Aye, Garth Groff
On 10/8/2019 3:35 PM, Benjamin Hom
wrote:
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper
Chuck Cover
RE: what did you use for hopper doors on your models?
Don,
I used Bowser H21 Wine door locks and the hopper door angles were 3/64” styrene. These two details are the most visible from the sides of the model. I did little else with underbody details as the car is meant to be an operating model on my PRR’s Shamokin Branch Layout. I did do the end brake detail and the grabs because they were so visible.
Chuck Cover Santa Fe, NM
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Re: Model Help
Benjamin Hom
Lester Breuer asked: "I was gifted this HO Train-Miniature NP Hopper lettered correctly for the NP and being 35 ft inside inside (rather than 34 ft 9 in as the prototype) it could be reworked into a NP Hopper in the 70050-70199 series which had 6 panels rather than 9 as the AAR standard design with 33 ft inside. Rivets pattern also need correction. I began the process (2nd Photo) and began wondering if there is a better model for the project. Is there a better model for a starting point?" Probably as good a starting point as any, especially as you've started carving plastic. The Train-Miniature/Walthers 36 ft offset twin is a foobie anyway (they tooled an offset car to get extra mileage out of the tooling done for the PS-3 twin), so you're not wrecking something which would be otherwise useful anyway. The only other longer model twin hopper that comes to mind as a starting point is the Gilbert offset twin (undated catalog scan from the HOSeeker website attached for reference). The linked clearance diagram from the NPRHA website doesn't indicate the type of taper, so I'm not sure if the stepped taper of the Gilbert model or the long taper of the Train-Miniature/Walthers model is more appropriate. I got one of the Gilbert cars years ago as a basket case and stripped it, then failed to find a prototype for it. I also have a couple of the Train-Miniature offset twins on hand, so this is a potential project for me as well. Ben Hom
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Re: Red Caboose ACF Box Car with 4-3-1 Ends and Riveted Sides
StephenK
Thanks to all for the info. The spreadsheets and, especially, the RMJ roster from 1999 did the trick. It looks like RC once did the car I have settled on (MP 36000 Series), but of course, I have an undec and will able to finish it up myself. Need to gather the supplies, but I am on my way!
BTW, it seems like the old RMJ mags are more valuable than ever. I have the indexes that they once published, but they are not complete. Nevertheless, those "Car Spotters Guides" were great! S
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper
Marty McGuirk
Anyone have a similar diagram for the conversion to two-bay hoppers that I understand started with these cars? Thanks, Marty McGuirk Gainesville, VA
On October 8, 2019 at 1:48 PM Scott Seders <sseders@...> wrote:
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Sunshine PFE
Paul Doggett
Sunshine PFE R30-16 the main decals are Microscale 87-414 the data decals are the ones that came with the kit. Sides are Floquil daylight orange the roof and ends are Trucolor SP freight car Brown.
Paul Doggett. England 🏴
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Re: SRFD reefers with ventilator hoods (Ice Car From 1942)
Unfortunately this photo appears to be from the Japanese relocation to give it context.
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Model Help
Lester Breuer
I was gifted this HO Train-Miniature NP Hopper lettered correctly for the Np and being 35ft inside inside ( Rather than 34ft 9 inches as the prototype) it could be reworked into a NP Hopper in the 70050-70199 series which had 6 panels rather than 9 as the AAR standard design with 33 ft inside. Rivets pattern also need correction. I began the process ( 2nd Photo) and began wondering if there is a better model for the project. Is there a better model for a starting point? Thanks for your time and effort to help in advance.
Lester Breuer
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A.A. Morrison Railway Supply / International Car
mark_landgraf
Chris, Would you please contact me off list at mark_landgraf at yahoo dot com Yhanks Mark
On Sunday, October 6, 2019, 11:31:51 PM EDT, leakinmywaders via Groups.Io <leakinmywaders@...> wrote: Mark: Matt Herson and I published a roster and brief account of the several series of boxcars that A.A. Morrison and subsidiaries rebuilt or refurbished and leased to the NP during the 1960s. The article appeared in 2009 in the NPRHA Mainstreeter, Volume 28, No. 4. The piece was entitled “The Lazarus Fleet: Leased Boxcars of the 1960s,” because these were all steam-era boxcars considered worn-out and sidelined by northeastern roads, including Erie, DLW, DT&I, and N&W. The Morrison firm smelled opportunity in exploiting the excess of NE US road boxcars to address recurring car shortages on western roads for shipping forest products. The cars were altered to varying degrees for lease service, most drastically in the case of single door cars converted to double doors. Note that certain of the ORER-listed NP series originated from multiple parent series and even railroads. This touches on RealSTMC content because of the build dates of the boxcars (1930s-40s), but A. A. Morrison and Morrison International activity in the 1960s and later might be better discussed on the MFCL or BBFCL io groups. Regards, Chris Frissell Polson, MT
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper
Benjamin Hom
Scott Seders wrote: "Below is a diagram for the woodchip car conversion LV did. Scott, thanks. Interpolating from the diagram, the height from rail to top chord of the pre-wood chip rebuilds is 10 ft 8 in. PRR Class H21/H21A is 10 ft 6 in. Two inches isn't necessarily a deal-breaker, but the wheelbase issues and different hopper orientation makes the Bowser conversion project a non-starter. Ben Hom
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper
Don't forget the 70 ton trucks! There are now a couple of nice implementations of plain bearing 70 ton trucks with 3 outboard springs - Kadee and Tangent, and maybe others.
On 10/8/2019 1:48 PM, Scott Seders wrote:
--
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Re: Illinois Central R-40-10 reefer colors
Fred Jansz
Thanks Tim, Tony,
I model/collect 1950. Think I follow Mr Hendrickson's expertise by modeling an 'interim' paint scheme, with black roof & ends, new data on the sides and still yellow sides & green lettering. After 13 years in service this seems an appropriate scheme (the orange sides added >1950 w. next paint job). cheers, Fred Jansz
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper
Scott Seders
Below is a diagram for the woodchip car conversion LV did. Scott Seders Salisbury, MD
On Oct 8, 2019, at 12:34 PM, Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:
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Re: New Decal Availabile
Thanks Guys. As Tim’s post about the correct car numbers points out, the number on my car is wrong. This was caused by a cascade of errors induced by my method of applying decals. I like to apply the car numbers as they come in the set even if I plan to use a different number. This makes it much easier to keep things lined up. After they are down I lightly score the decal and peel up the number to be changed and replace it with the new digit. In this case the first ‘9’ was going to be changed to an ‘8’. Well the decals are from Tichy and as others have pointed out they can be somewhat stubborn when trying to get them to settle down. After many attempts with all sorts of setting solutions I finally had some luck with a q-tip dipped in boiling water. While the decal settled down, the paint had started to soften with all the heat and different solvents I was subjecting it to, so I decided to leave it and not risk running a fine paint job by trying to peel up the digit.
Bill top mark for doubling up the up the two sets of decals on your scheme. A fine looking car.
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper
Benjamin Hom
Tim O'Connor wrote: "We have indeed discussed the Hobbyline model in the past - it even has cutouts underneath to clear the wheels.Because it is such a mediocre model, I wonder if a stand-in is not a better choice? For example, could a Bowser H25 have the ribs sanded/filed off and then re-ribbed to resemble the Lehigh Valley car?" The Bowser model is not Class H25, but Class H21A. I don't have an LV ORER or diagram book handy at the office, but my gut feeling is the LV car is taller, and you'd have to rework the end details as well. You'd probably be better off taking the sanding block to the HObbytown model if you go that route. Ben Hom
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper
ford.donald77 <ford.donald77@...>
Tim The wheel base and the side height is different. The hoppers are orientated all facing to the center were as the H21a is a saw tooth arrangement. the hopper doors are a corrugated style I think call Apex. The model has a poor three bumps facing in the wrong direction to simulate this. The hopper doors are the hardest thing to model. I tried but was not successful. I was working with the builders photo (ACF) Chuck what did you sue for hopper doors on your models? Don Ford Cameron MO
On Tuesday, October 8, 2019, 10:59:28 AM CDT, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
We have indeed discussed the Hobbyline model in the past - it even has cutouts underneath to clear the wheels. Because it is such a mediocre model, I wonder if a stand-in is not a better choice? For example, could a Bowser H25 have the ribs sanded/filed off and then re-ribbed to resemble the Lehigh Valley car? Tim O'Connor On 10/8/2019 9:08 AM, Benjamin Hom wrote: Scott Seders asked:
"Is the Hobbyline
model the best starting point for this LV hopper?
I wanted to be certain there isn’t a
better model (injection molded plastic or resin)
available that I am overlooking."
Yes. It's the ONLY
starting point available in HO scale. Make sure you
don't get one of these models that was reboxed by Lionel
HO - it's the same model, but will likely command a
premium from the seller just because it's Lionel, even
if it's a basket case. These are easily identified by
heat-stamped lettering. Otherwise, you can still get
these models at reasonable prices.
Ben Hom
-- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Re: Illinois Central R-40-10 reefer colors
As Tony points out, originally received aluminum painted roofs. Repaints received black ends and roofs and orange sides (at some point MDT & IC began using the same orange paint) The attached photo of 50038 appears to have a combination of colors on the roof
On 10/8/2019 3:52 AM, Fred Jansz wrote:
Hi all, --
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Re: Lehigh Valley 4-Bay Hopper
We have indeed discussed the Hobbyline model in the past - it even has cutouts underneath to clear the wheels. Because it is such a mediocre model, I wonder if a stand-in is not a better choice? For example, could a Bowser H25 have the ribs sanded/filed off and then re-ribbed to resemble the Lehigh Valley car? Tim O'Connor
On 10/8/2019 9:08 AM, Benjamin Hom wrote:
--
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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