Re: Union Tank Car Co. UTLX 17441 a “squat”
Dave Boss
Really enjoyed your blog. Great job on the X3. This car is one that I really need as I 'm modeling the oil industry in my area. I have just finished working on an 8000 gal ACF tank car myself, and decided to bend brass wire to for the hand rail as well. I had nothing to work with so I bent the hand rail ,free hand to use with the Precision Scale stanchions. This really discouraged me from trying this again. Your blog however renewed my interest in making hand rails in the future. I didn't realize they include a jig in the sunshine tank car kits. Unfortunately I have no Sunshine tank car kits to acquire one of those jigs. Dose anyone know if there is a jig available to make these handrails? Dave
On Sat, Feb 1, 2020 at 7:32 AM Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote:
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Union Tank Car Co. UTLX 17441 a “squat”
Lester Breuer
I have completed the build of Sunshine Models, kit 62.2, a Union Tank Car Company (UTLX) “squat” or “short” 8,000 gallon tank car I numbered 17441. If you are interested the build of this “squat” UTLX tank car which includes installing Precision Scale, #32110, handrail stanchions, photos and writeup of the build process including paint and weathering are now available on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company. If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:
http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/ Lester Breuer
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Re: Vague question about a gondola
Which gondola kit? Tangent have done 3 different ones...
Colin ‘t Hart Frösön, Sweden
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Re: Weathering Couplers
Andy Carlson
"Hot"Lacquer Thinner, by another name is available in California. It is called Acetone, and auto body shops have used it for decades for thinning lacquer base primer as it dries real quickly. It is too hot for color service work. -Andy Carlson Ojai CA
On Friday, January 31, 2020, 5:04:05 PM PST, John Sykes III via Groups.Io <johnsykesiii@...> wrote:
P.S. You can't buy "hot" lacquer thinner in CA so I guess you have to drive out to Las Vegas to get some (>88% VOCs). Here in FL, anything goes. Xylenes (xylol) works good too for a thinner. I thnk DioSol was mainly xylenes and toluene.
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Re: Weathering Couplers
I use the same technique as Ron. A few things. First, get the low-tack painters' tape. It is green or purple (I forget which) and comes off very easily. Second, I use either Floquil Rust, Rust #2 or Scalecoat II "Orange Peel" none of these three paints are currently available. Mix it 50:50 with a hot lacquer thinner and spay on the couplers.
They dry extremely quickly, so you can "untape" them (if that is a word) in less than 5 minutes. I brush paint the uncoupling pin with engine black and add about 1/32" - 1"16" of Platinum mist at the tip to represent the "monkey fist". I put them on the car THEN do my weathering of the car using mainly grimy black or roof brown (I am modeling the PRR, so the more the merrier) diluted about 10:1 with the hot lacquer thinner (that is 10 parts thinner to 1 part paint). That's typical PRR weathering for you! I use to use only grimy black, rust and RR Grime but Steve Hoxie got me to use the roof brown. -- John P.S. You can't buy "hot" lacquer thinner in CA so I guess you have to drive out to Las Vegas to get some (>88% VOCs). Here in FL, anything goes. Xylenes (xylol) works good too for a thinner. I thnk DioSol was mainly xylenes and toluene.
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L&N Shipper guide
Ted Schnepf
Hello Everyone, The Louisville and Nashville, is my first guide covering part of the southeastern US. You can see a photo of the cover below. It covers the Louisville and Nashville RR, all the way from Illinois and Ohio to Florida and Louisiana, and all states in between. There are only two dates in the book, with the L&N map being dated 1939, so am guessing a per war publication date of 1940. The book has 163 pages, with a comb binding, so it opens flat for easy use. The book is produced by Reynolds & Reynolds (printing) of Dayton, Oh. They have published several other books I sell, such as, UP, CNW, RI, and Milwaukee. The industries are listed by type, and then by state and town in alphabetical order. This L&N book seems to be more elaborate with a larger forward section, explaining industries along the L&N. There is also 6 pages listing LCL routes. The book sells for $34.95. plus $5.00 shipping if needed. It is not on my website yet. Contact me off list to order any of the shippers guides. there are now twenty one titles. Ted Schnepf 126 Will Scarlet, Elgin, Ill. 60120 847=697-5353 ----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Ted Schnepf <tedschnepf5@...> To: "railsunl@..." <railsunl@...> Sent: Friday, January 31, 2020, 09:38:53 AM CST Subject:
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Re: Vague question about a gondola
Jeff
I should correct myself - the G43 is too new for this list.
On Fri, Jan 31, 2020 at 3:00 PM Jeff via Groups.Io <jeffshultz=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
--
Jeff Shultz http://www.shultzinfosystems.com A railfan approaches a grade crossing hoping that there will be a train.
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Re: Vague question about a gondola
Jeff
The question at this point would be: "Is the model a Bethlehem 70-ton riveted drop-end gondola, a PRR/PC Shops G43 Series gondola, or an ACF 70-ton welded drop-end gondola? " All of them have been released by Tangent as undec kits.
On Fri, Jan 31, 2020 at 11:25 AM Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote: A friend bought an undecorated Tangent gondola kit. He would like to paint for something other than what Tangent has done. Anyone know of any? I should say any there was decals available for? --
Jeff Shultz http://www.shultzinfosystems.com A railfan approaches a grade crossing hoping that there will be a train.
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Vague question about a gondola
David
I assume this is the Bethlehem mill gon? I expect there are a number of B&O paint schemes they haven't done yet.
David Thompson
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Vague question about a gondola
Clark Propst
A friend bought an undecorated Tangent gondola kit. He would like to paint for something other than what Tangent has done. Anyone know of any? I should say any there was decals available for?
CW Propst
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Offered: Sunshine Resin SP B-50-24 Black Overnight lettering box car kit
Andy Carlson
Hello- Offering for sale; I have a new, never removed from box HO Sunshine Models kit #32.1 S.P. B-50-24 Black Overnight lettering 40' box car kit. Offered for $55 and I pay shipping. It will be Kraft wrapped before mailing. Has the unique for SP Youngstown Steel "Overnight" steel door. I accept checks and money orders. With a small fee PayPal is welcomed. Contact me off-list (Please) for details at <midcentury@...> Thanks, -Andy Carlson, Ojai, CA.
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Re: Weathering Couplers
Mont Switzer
And if a coupler should become sticky there is always MEK or lacquer thinner.
Montford L. Switzer President Switzer Tank Lines, Inc. Fall Creek Leasing, LLC. (765) 836-2914
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
On Behalf Of mopacfirst
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2020 9:25 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Weathering Couplers
I just paint them.
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Re: Weathering Couplers
mopacfirst
I just paint them.
I keep an inventory of Kadee 158 couplers in three colors - black, boxcar red and rust. The painting is done by placing x number of couplers on one edge of a strip of masking tape, bottom of the shank firmly pressed against the tape. Then I fold the tape lengthwise over the whisker side, pressing lightly. I have not done a destructive test as to whether that whisker could be pulled out of its mount, so I don't take chances and only lightly press the tape against that side. Then I take them out to the paint stand. Sometimes I'll drop a pair of couplers of the appropriate color into a kit box when I'm first figuring out what paint and lettering the car should get. Even with B&W photos of the prototype, if you have a good end view you can often tell what color the couplers should be. But as a default, older cars (from my perspective of 1960-62) often have the couplers painted the same color as the car body. Cars that have their original builder paint scheme, by that era, often were unpainted (rust color). The mandate to leave couplers unpainted so as to allow examination for defects came later. In recent years, I have painted most underframes black if that's the appropriate color. I'll mount an assembled Kadee 262 coupler box before painting, then usually install the couplers after the paint has cured. The car body may or may not have been finished by that time, but I've often painted the body separately if it's a house car. Gons and flats where there is a concealed weight obviously get a different technique. Bottom line is I don't treat the couplers delicately with regard to painting, and no harm seems to come. I might also paint the couplers along with the car, if the underframe and body are all the same color. In all cases, I use the Kadee coupler pliers and bend the pin upward slightly, and check to be sure the spring is in place, before painting. I do apply just a light coat of paint. I rarely if ever find couplers frozen by the paint. I did occasionally find that when I did brush painting of couplers. On rare occasions I might need to apply a brush coat of paint, say on cars I picked up completely built by someone else, and in that case I'll gingerly do a little highlighting on the coupler body and knuckle top and sides. Ron Merrick
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Re: Weathering Couplers
Pete Steinmetz
Bob: I use a "Rust" color paint pen from a military hobby shop. There are quite a few manufacturers. Close enough for Rust/Dark Brown color looks fine. Pete Steinmetz
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Re: Book of historical drawings; is it worth scanning?
Jeff Eggert
I don't know if there would be anything like those castings in this group. Lots of levers, brackets, tanks bands and the ever vague "steel details" to name a few. Some drawings do reference a builder's drawing number. These aren't really cataloged, just a drawing number at this point. There has been a thought to put them out for online viewing, but it would be more of a treasure hunt as we don't have anyone available in our archives group to populate other fields of interest.
Jeff Eggert
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Re: HO Scale Freight Car Trucks by Richard Hendrickson
Tony Thompson
Steve Hoxie wrote: In the May 2013 Model Railroad Hobbyist Richard Hendrickson had a great article discussing freight car trucks, available here: I posted Richard's last update to this article on Google Drive. Here is the link: Tony Thompson
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Re: HO Scale Freight Car Trucks by Richard Hendrickson
brianleppert@att.net
Oops, let's try this one https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz_ctrHrDz4wcjJWcENpaDJYbUU/edit?pli=1
Brian Leppert Tahoe Model Works Carson City, NV
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Re: HO Scale Freight Car Trucks by Richard Hendrickson
brianleppert@att.net
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Re: ACL low sided gondolas
Allen Cain
Paul,
Attached are a couple of additional articles covering these models written by Jim Sixx, George Eichelberger and Larry Goolsby plus a photo that I pulled off the internet from a source that I did not record. I think that you have the Seaboard Coastline Modeler article but if not, let me know and I can send it also. Allen Cain
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HO Scale Freight Car Trucks by Richard Hendrickson
pennsylvania1954
In the May 2013 Model Railroad Hobbyist Richard Hendrickson had a great article discussing freight car trucks, available here:
https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2013-05-may/freight-trucks-1900-1960 At the end of the article is a link to his HO SCALE FREIGHT CAR TRUCKS list, however the link no longer works. I know his intent was to update the list as necessary and that was done at least once. The list I downloaded several years ago is dated April 2014. There is an ongoing discussion thread over on MRH where readers might find Richard's list useful. Is there a site that can be linked to access the HO SCALE FREIGHT CAR TRUCKS list? -- Steve Hoxie Pensacola FL
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