Date   

FSA/OWI photos - Omaha 1938, 1941

Paul Krueger
 

I was looking at photos on the Library of Congress website and found these from Omaha with freight cars. Most were taken November 1938, but I think one is from 1941.

Paul Krueger
Seattle, WA

Unloading 'coal' (looks like cinders or gravel to me) - MP USRA gondola

Union Stock Yards - boxcars in the background

Grain elevators - CGW boxcars in the midground, SAL box in the background, and what is that on the side of the boxcar behind the RI locomotive in the foreground?

CGW boxcar close-up (too bad the photographer wasn't back a foot or so)

American Smelting and Refining - nice cut of freight cars across the middle of the photo, is that a pickle car in the middle? Two rail cranes in the photo too.

Another view of American Smelting, but the freight cars are more distant

Unloading sheep at the stock yards - MILW stock car being unloaded, Quaker City Live Stock Express stock car in the background with part of a RI stock car.

Close-up of sheep being loaded into a stock car
 
Stock yards - decent view of ARLX 11801 on the right

Omaha rail yard - good views of roofs and ends

Omaha elevated view - some freight cars in the lower left corner



Re: Photo: Poultry Car

Ray Breyer
 

LPTC, please. The X didn't come until after 1926.

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL


On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 11:44:07 AM CDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:


I would guess the marks are LPTX. I can read TRANSIT on the sill under the door. I would assume this is a Live Poultry Transit Company car LPTX. 


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Apr 12, 2020, at 11:33 AM, Bob Chaparro via groups.io <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Photo: Poultry Car

A photo from the Digital Horizons (http://www.digitalhorizonsonline.org/digital/about) website:

http://www.digitalhorizonsonline.org/digital/collection/ndshs-dm/id/432/rec/375

Description: "A railroad freight car that is loaded with poultry from Jamestown, N.D.  There is a door in the center of the railroad car, and open air traveling compartments on either side for the poultry.  There are crates on the right, and buildings in the background." "No later than 1926"

Can anyone make out the reporting marks?

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Painting brass

Fred Jansz
 

Dip the model in thinner overnight, blast with alu oxide, wash & dry, then a light mist of Vallejo gray primer, paint with Tru-Color, decal and finish with Vallejo satin.
Fred Jansz


Re: Photo: Poultry Car

Eric Hansmann
 

I would guess the marks are LPTX. I can read TRANSIT on the sill under the door. I would assume this is a Live Poultry Transit Company car LPTX. 


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Apr 12, 2020, at 11:33 AM, Bob Chaparro via groups.io <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Photo: Poultry Car

A photo from the Digital Horizons (http://www.digitalhorizonsonline.org/digital/about) website:

http://www.digitalhorizonsonline.org/digital/collection/ndshs-dm/id/432/rec/375

Description: "A railroad freight car that is loaded with poultry from Jamestown, N.D.  There is a door in the center of the railroad car, and open air traveling compartments on either side for the poultry.  There are crates on the right, and buildings in the background." "No later than 1926"

Can anyone make out the reporting marks?

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: More WP West Coast Meat Reefer Data

Garth Groff and Sally Sanford <mallardlodge1000@...>
 

Fred,

I suppose there were reefer blocks within hot freight trains as a convenience for re-icing enroute. What I meant to imply is that most of the customers had sidings with a very short capacity, and probably would receive only one or two cars at a time, especially on the WP. At least on the WP you probably wouldn't see long trains of nothing but meat reefers. 

Maybe Tony or some of the other SP fans would have more information about meat reefers on the SP's Overland route.

Yours Aye,


Garth 

On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 10:43 AM Fred Jansz <fred@...> wrote:
Wow!
As a WP ànd reefer fan/modeler/collector I'm thrilled to be able to archive your extensive research Garth.
Always wondered if I should include some of these meat reefers in my collection.
And now I know which ones.
Thank you very much.
NB: do I understand well that these reefers wouldn't be in reefer blocks, but random in freight trains?

Cheers, Fred Jansz


Photo: GN Boxcar 24368 - Beer & Forward Facing Rocky

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: GN Boxcar 24368 - Beer & Forward Facing Rocky

A 1937 photo from the Tacoma Public Library Digital Collections:

http://cdm17061.contentdm.oclc.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p17061coll21/id/35581/rec/1698

Description: "A Great Northern freight car advertises Columbia Breweries "First Car Load Shipment of Canned Beer out of a Pacific Northwest Brewery, Leadership, Alt Heidelberg Guest Beer". In 1936 the company reported that they were the first of the Northwest brewers to introduce canned beer in the territory of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Alaska."

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Photo: Poultry Car

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: Poultry Car

A photo from the Digital Horizons (http://www.digitalhorizonsonline.org/digital/about) website:

http://www.digitalhorizonsonline.org/digital/collection/ndshs-dm/id/432/rec/375

Description: "A railroad freight car that is loaded with poultry from Jamestown, N.D.  There is a door in the center of the railroad car, and open air traveling compartments on either side for the poultry.  There are crates on the right, and buildings in the background." "No later than 1926"

Can anyone make out the reporting marks?

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Question re: upcoming Rapido USRA DS box

Eric Hansmann
 

Bill W,

I understand those were a later addition. The Rapido models reflect many as-Built characteristics of the prototypes. 


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Apr 12, 2020, at 10:23 AM, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:

Still not seeing the eave boards along the top of the sides.

Bill Welch
<SP_S 10078 USRA boxcar.tiff>


Re: Tamiya primer (was [RealSTMFC] Painting brass)

Nelson Moyer
 

Yep, mass painting doesn’t work with that paint, though I once primed twelve stock cars in a makeshift cardboard paint booth in the garage. I still prime in the garage, but I do one car at a time using paint handles. I made four handles, so I can do four cars in a session. My paint booth is a fairly small Paasche, and using rattle cans really messes it up due to the wider pattern than an airbrush. Rather than cleaning the paint booth after every rattle car session, I wait for warm, dry day without too much wind (rare in Iowa), open the garage door, and set up a temporary bench of plywood on saw horses, and paint in the garage. Because Tamiya dries so fast, there isn’t any wet overspray except on the plywood, the rest is just powder as you’ve experienced. Of course I use a respirator and gloves, but because the garage door is open, and because Tamiya dries so fast, the fumes are mostly gone after 10-15 minutes.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 9:53 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: Tamiya primer (was [RealSTMFC] Painting brass)

 

Nelson

Ok, thanks! I may have been too far from the work. The paint I used is the
"fine surface primer". But I should say that the powder residue was all over
the booth but not on the model pieces - I was mass painting Athearn blue box
underframes. :-[



On 4/12/2020 9:49 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

Tim, you’re used the wrong primer. You need Tamiya FINE Light Gray Primer. Tamiya also makes a Light Gray Primer, and the cans look alike except for the word FINE. That makes all the difference in the world. Also, it sounds like your spray distance was too far and the paint evaporated before it hit the car. Tamiya paint is highly volatile. The can recommends 8-10 inches from the work, which is closer than most rattle cars. You want to apply paint in 3-5 passes from different angles, especially on SS cars, stock cars, reefers, or any other cars with raised details. Each pass should be slightly wet. Don’t worry about obscuring details, as it dries very fast and very thin. I use paint handles designed by Pierre, and I start with the underframe from all angles until it’s covered, then I do the sides, ends, and roof, in that order. Don’t try to do the whole car at once. Tamiya recommends temperatures above 50° F and avoid use on days where humidity is high. I’ve primed something like 100 car using Tamiya Fine Light Gray primer without any problems.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 8:32 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: Tamiya primer (was [RealSTMFC] Painting brass)

 


The other day I tried Tamiya Primer Grey from the can, instead of an airbrush. I was
rather surprised that the paint's color pigment left a POWDER RESIDUE when the carrier
or thinner had evaporated. I actually scooped up a little pile of powder with a stiff
piece of cardstock - it had the exact same consistency as weathering powders that I have!

I have NEVER seen a paint of any type do this before.

Am I doing something wrong? I rarely use spray cans...

Tim O'Connor

P.S. Temperature in my workshop about 66F and low humidity (normal for NE winter)


On 4/11/2020 7:28 PM, Tony Thompson wrote:

Clark Propst wrote:




Would like to know what prep work folks do before laying on color?

 

   Clark, I almost always use a light gray primer, sometimes even from a rattle can, but with good paint, such as Tamiya. And I let it sit for some time to be ENTIRELY dry.

 

Tony Thompson

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Question re: upcoming Rapido USRA DS box

Bill Welch
 

Still not seeing the eave boards along the top of the sides.

Bill Welch


Re: C&O 9827

bigfourroad
 

Beautiful job! Perfect attention to detail with the Raceland paint stencil and the light weathering. Chris Rooney


Re: Question re: upcoming Rapido USRA DS box

spsalso
 

Bill,

Thank you for the newer photo.  After comparing the two for awhile, I saw that the spacing of the side rungs on the early one was uneven, with the lower two rungs close together.

I am indeed glad this was caught and corrected.  I am looking forward to them.


Ed

Edward Sutorik


Re: Tamiya primer (was [RealSTMFC] Painting brass)

Tim O'Connor
 

Nelson

Ok, thanks! I may have been too far from the work. The paint I used is the
"fine surface primer".
But I should say that the powder residue was all over
the booth but not on the model pieces - I was mass painting Athearn blue box
underframes. :-[




On 4/12/2020 9:49 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

Tim, you’re used the wrong primer. You need Tamiya FINE Light Gray Primer. Tamiya also makes a Light Gray Primer, and the cans look alike except for the word FINE. That makes all the difference in the world. Also, it sounds like your spray distance was too far and the paint evaporated before it hit the car. Tamiya paint is highly volatile. The can recommends 8-10 inches from the work, which is closer than most rattle cars. You want to apply paint in 3-5 passes from different angles, especially on SS cars, stock cars, reefers, or any other cars with raised details. Each pass should be slightly wet. Don’t worry about obscuring details, as it dries very fast and very thin. I use paint handles designed by Pierre, and I start with the underframe from all angles until it’s covered, then I do the sides, ends, and roof, in that order. Don’t try to do the whole car at once. Tamiya recommends temperatures above 50° F and avoid use on days where humidity is high. I’ve primed something like 100 car using Tamiya Fine Light Gray primer without any problems.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 8:32 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: Tamiya primer (was [RealSTMFC] Painting brass)

 


The other day I tried Tamiya Primer Grey from the can, instead of an airbrush. I was
rather surprised that the paint's color pigment left a POWDER RESIDUE when the carrier
or thinner had evaporated. I actually scooped up a little pile of powder with a stiff
piece of cardstock - it had the exact same consistency as weathering powders that I have!

I have NEVER seen a paint of any type do this before.

Am I doing something wrong? I rarely use spray cans...

Tim O'Connor

P.S. Temperature in my workshop about 66F and low humidity (normal for NE winter)


On 4/11/2020 7:28 PM, Tony Thompson wrote:

Clark Propst wrote:



Would like to know what prep work folks do before laying on color?

 

   Clark, I almost always use a light gray primer, sometimes even from a rattle can, but with good paint, such as Tamiya. And I let it sit for some time to be ENTIRELY dry.

 

Tony Thompson

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: More WP West Coast Meat Reefer Data

Fred Jansz
 

Wow!
As a WP ànd reefer fan/modeler/collector I'm thrilled to be able to archive your extensive research Garth.
Always wondered if I should include some of these meat reefers in my collection.
And now I know which ones.
Thank you very much.
NB: do I understand well that these reefers wouldn't be in reefer blocks, but random in freight trains?

Cheers, Fred Jansz


Re: Painting brass

Tim O'Connor
 


I've painted over a hundred brass models and have never used vinegar, and only once used
a grit blaster because there was oxidation on the model.

"Unpainted" brass is painted with clear lacquer because otherwise it oxidizes. To remove
this I bought a HUGE plastic storage jar and filled it with acrylic lacquer thinner. The
jar lasted about 15 years before the thinner began to attack the plastic... So anyway, I
would just drop the whole car (it was tall enough for a 90 foot autorack) into the jar
and let the thinner dissolve the clear coat. Then come detergent and warm water cleanup
and sometimes a bit of brushing to remove the coating from grabirons and such.

And Pierre is right, don't handle the dry clean brass with oily fingers! Been there, done
that. :-D



On 4/12/2020 10:33 AM, Bruce Smith wrote:
Mal,

Why do you etch in vinegar and then grit blast? To me that means that one of the two of those approaches is not working 😉. I would simply grit blast to give "tooth" and remove any tarnish or oxidation.

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Malcolm H. Houck via groups.io <Indian640@...>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 9:29 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Painting brass
 
Painting Brass: --

Soak in solvent to make sure all flux and oils are removed;

Soak in white vinegar (nothing more that weak acetic acid);

Rinse and dry;

I blast in a cabinet with #400 Alox;

Most primer is nothing more than another (unnecessary) coat of paint, and
of questionable value when attempting a (chemical) bond to non-ferrous material
and so-called etching primers are formulated for ferric materials employing
phosphoric acid as the etchant (creating iron phosphate for paint to stick to);

But I do coat with a clear industrial preparation.......branded as "Steelcote"
(and consisting largely of purified shellac - once covered with the color coat
it's as durable as anything else);

Paint and then bake......I have stuff painted over thirty-five years ago
with Steelcote - Scalecoat.......trudged all over and about for display, packed, unpacked,
repacked, unpacked.......etc., etc., etc.,

Rarely any touch up..........

Mal Houck


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Painting brass

Bruce Smith
 

My 2 cents...

Disassemble

As noted by many, remove the clear coat (stripper, sometime grit blaster)

Always etch in some way - I grit blast with baking soda.  A note that baking soda is not nearly as effective as Aluminum oxide, but it is much safer (accidental inhalation) and I can dispose of the used stuff on my lawn to counter my acid soil 😉

Wash thoroughly, rinse very thoroughly, dry and DO NOT TOCUH with bare hands.

If I am using acrylics for the colors, I prime with a Rattle can, Model Master Flat Black Enamel (note. I have avoided doing light colors this way). This paint is amazingly fine, does not obscure details, self levels and sticks to brass, to the point where it is hard to strip it. When I am painting something black, I'm done at this step!

If I am using Scalecoat 1, as others have noted, no primer is needed.

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL (headed for the tornado shelter with a kit shortly - good luck and stay safe to all my southern friends today!)


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Tony Thompson <tony@...>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 6:28 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Painting brass
 
Clark Propst wrote:

Would like to know what prep work folks do before laying on color?

   Clark, I almost always use a light gray primer, sometimes even from a rattle can, but with good paint, such as Tamiya. And I let it sit for some time to be ENTIRELY dry.

Tony Thompson




Re: Painting brass

Bruce Smith
 

Mal,

Why do you etch in vinegar and then grit blast? To me that means that one of the two of those approaches is not working 😉. I would simply grit blast to give "tooth" and remove any tarnish or oxidation.

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Malcolm H. Houck via groups.io <Indian640@...>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 9:29 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Painting brass
 
Painting Brass: --

Soak in solvent to make sure all flux and oils are removed;

Soak in white vinegar (nothing more that weak acetic acid);

Rinse and dry;

I blast in a cabinet with #400 Alox;

Most primer is nothing more than another (unnecessary) coat of paint, and
of questionable value when attempting a (chemical) bond to non-ferrous material
and so-called etching primers are formulated for ferric materials employing
phosphoric acid as the etchant (creating iron phosphate for paint to stick to);

But I do coat with a clear industrial preparation.......branded as "Steelcote"
(and consisting largely of purified shellac - once covered with the color coat
it's as durable as anything else);

Paint and then bake......I have stuff painted over thirty-five years ago
with Steelcote - Scalecoat.......trudged all over and about for display, packed, unpacked,
repacked, unpacked.......etc., etc., etc.,

Rarely any touch up..........

Mal Houck


Re: Utah Coal Route steel gons in log service

Bruce Smith
 

Dumb question... how does that "unloading crane" get to the closer cars? It would seem highly inefficient for the crane to unload a car, shunt that car somewhere, unload the next, etc... Now, the crane is most likely self propelled so it could do that... but it sure isn't efficient.

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Doug Paasch <drpaasch@...>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 9:39 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io <main@realstmfc.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Utah Coal Route steel gons in log service
 

Thanks Claus!  Awesome picture, and with the unloading crane with tongs, too.  I will be modeling log dumps on my layout and this photo will be a great reference on how log loads were secured in gondolas and type of crane used to unload them.

Doug Paasch


On Apr 11, 2020 1:59 PM, "Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;)" <claus@...> wrote:
Hi List Members,
 
A nice view of Utah Coal Route steel gons in log service...
 
 
Additional image data can be found at the link below...
 
 
Enjoy
 
Claus Schlund
 


Re: Painting brass

Tim O'Connor
 


Painting brass with PRIMER is NECESSARY when using Accupaint on brass. Simple as that.

But when I use Scalecoat I, it's not necessary. Unless I do it for COLOR reasons (such
as a light color primer under Daylight Red or Daylight Orange).

I painted this car with SC-I, baked it, and applied CDS dry transfers.

By the way, those W&R sprung trucks have FIVE SPRINGS in each sideframe! Ask me how I
know! :-D




On 4/11/2020 10:26 PM, Andy Carlson wrote:
Tim O'Connor can tell you that George Bishop received his California supplied paint in 1 gallon buckets, 4 to a card board box, stacked together on wooden pallets.

I have way too much time.....
-Andy Carlson   Ojai CA

On Saturday, April 11, 2020, 6:22:28 PM PDT, Donald B. Valentine via groups.io <riverman_vt@...> wrote:
.....5 gallon cans from California.....


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Question re: upcoming Rapido USRA DS box

Bill Schneider
 

Ed,

That's an early pre-production piece hand-assembled and painted. WIth the mess right now we don;t have an active web master to update the image. Production shot attached.

Bill Schneider

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