Date   

Tru Color paint on Resin Freight Cars

Andy Carlson
 

Hi; already we have had the the universal opinion of yes for the use of primer on resin before a Tru-Color coat. Decades ago, I tried my 1st (and last) attempt to paint AccuPaint on an un-primered resin box car. The paint fell off in sheets! I wondered at that time if this would be a useful idea for making scale sized thickness canvas tarps!

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA




Group,

Question for you all. I’m painting a Yarmouth resin car and going to be using Tru Color paints. This is my first time using Tru Color on a train car. Would you guys recommend priming the car first?

Thanks

Tim Alund

-=-=-=-=-=-=-


Re: Tru Color paint on Resin Freight Cars

Ken Adams
 

I keep both the Tamiya red oxide and light grey primer handy and use before any rolling stock painting.  I have a bin of Tr-Color on hand but these days use it and PBL Star Brand for matching to Vallejo acrylics usually Vallejo Model Color for hand brushing. One color I have yet to match is the PBL Star Brand SP-UP Dark Olive to represent the SP color Dark Olive in Japan for passenger equipment. I don't do much passenger these days but when I do out comes the PreVal sprayer.

For a couple of cars both plastic and resin, the Tamiya red oxide was close enough to the color I wanted that I just sprayed the car a second time and used that as the final coat before on to the Future and decalling.

Ken Adams
Still in splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek


Re: Tru Color paint on Resin Freight Cars

Scott Seders
 

Tony Thompson wrote:

You must! The Tru-Color will not adhere to resin at all. Prime any way you like (I prefer Tamiya rattle cans).
Tony,

Which Tamiya primer do you prefer to use?

Scott Seders


Re: Tru Color paint on Resin Freight Cars

Pierre Oliver
 

ABSOLUTELY!
I had a huge failure with Tru-color paint on a custom project that wound up costing me a lot of money.
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is a great choice, the tru-color primer is not worth bothering with, in my experience

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com

On 7/11/20 3:42 p.m., Tim via groups.io wrote:
Group,

Question for you all. I’m painting a Yarmouth resin car and going to be using Tru Color paints. This is my first time using Tru Color on a train car. Would you guys recommend priming the car first?

Thanks

Tim Alund


Re: Tru Color paint on Resin Freight Cars

Tony Thompson
 

Tim Alund wrote:

Question for you all. I’m painting a Yarmouth resin car and going to be using Tru Color paints. This is my first time using Tru Color on a train car. Would you guys recommend priming the car first?
You must! The Tru-Color will not adhere to resin at all. Prime any way you like (I prefer Tamiya rattle cans).


Tony Thompson
tony@signaturepress.com


Re: Tru Color paint on Resin Freight Cars

Paul Doggett
 

Tim

Definitely I us a rattle can of fine car primer Trucolor will not stick to resin without a good primer otherwise it’s good paint.

Paul Doggett. England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

On 11 Jul 2020, at 20:42, Tim via groups.io <Atoolman2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Group,

Question for you all. I’m painting a Yarmouth resin car and going to be using Tru Color paints. This is my first time using Tru Color on a train car. Would you guys recommend priming the car first?

Thanks

Tim Alund



Re: Tru Color paint on Resin Freight Cars

O Fenton Wells
 

Yes, in my humble opinion
Fenton

On Sat, Jul 11, 2020 at 3:42 PM Tim via groups.io <Atoolman2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Group,

Question for you all. I’m painting a Yarmouth resin car and going to be using Tru Color paints. This is my first time using Tru Color on a train car. Would you guys recommend priming the car first?

Thanks

Tim Alund





--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Tru Color paint on Resin Freight Cars

Tim
 

Group,

Question for you all. I’m painting a Yarmouth resin car and going to be using Tru Color paints. This is my first time using Tru Color on a train car. Would you guys recommend priming the car first?

Thanks

Tim Alund


Quick-drying paint option

Jim King
 

I’ve been using Dupli-Color grey primer on all of my kits and patterns for the past several years because it covers well and dries quickly.  However, because the nozzle is not designed for tight corners, I only use it for a general light coating to show areas that need some attention and to cover glue residue from Acetone.  Today, I primed an S scale B&O M15k body pattern that will go into production early next week and needed the fine control of an airbrush plus a quick-dry coat.

 

I don’t have time for Floquil primer to dry.  It takes DAYS at room temp; even with the help of my shop oven at 85F, it would take too long.  Spraying the Dupli-Color into a Paasche bottle to about 50% full, then adding about 40% of lacquer thinner gives me a great alternative to traditional Floquil.  I spray this mixture at around 18 psi outside under full sunlight so I don’t miss any spots.  This mixture is VERY thin … it took 10+ passes to cover bare styrene with about 10-15 seconds in between … but there are no blobs, drips or runs.  It dries FLAT in less than a minute and will fully cure in about 2 hours.  Great foundation for powders and oils if you use other colors.

 

Since I’ll have to handle the body a lot during rubber mold prepping steps, I’m letting it dry overnight.  This is a dull finish but can be shined with a paper towel.  A gloss coat is still required for decal application but since this body will be used as a mold master, the paper towel shine is sufficient.  Leftover paint is stored in the same airbrush bottle (I coat the threads of all opened paint bottles with Johnson’s floor wax to keep air out and store the bottles upside down so the thinner is away from the threads).

 

If you need a good quality, fast-drying paint but finer control than a rattle can nozzle provides, here’s an option.  The Dupli-Color line is available at Auto Zone and most other car shops.  It’s a bit pricy at around $8-9.00/can but lasts a while (mine is 2+ years old), especially when thinned as I’ve done for airbrushing.  Other colors are available, including a rusty-primer color that is very close to Floquil’s Zinc Chromate Primer (handy for B&O modelers!), black and others.

 

Jim King

http://smokymountainmodelworks.com/

 


Re: Coupler Mounting Screws

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Hmm, those are pretty cool.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bud Rindfleisch
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2020 12:42 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Coupler Mounting Screws

 

I've found "button head" screws from Micro Fasteners to be very low profile.I bought them in 2-56 and 0-80. They use a small allen wrench of which the size escapes me right now. I like the way they look compared to a phillips cross slot when underbody detailing is important.

     The attached pic is on my S scale scratchbuilt underframe for an LV caboose I'm converting to scale from Am Flyer. I use the 0-80 with the Kadee 802 couplers.

      Bud Rindfleisch


Re: Coupler Mounting Screws

Daniel A. Mitchell
 

The Allen “button-head” is typically similar to a Pan-head, but maybe just a tad thinner. One nice thing about them is that they are almost always blackened. They’re also a higher strength screw, but I can’t imagine that being a major factor in model railroading.

The one downside is that they are steel, and thus magnetic. This can cause problems with Kadee-type couplers. An alternative is to get Stainless-steel Allen heads screws ... these are minimally magnetic and have the same profile … they do need to be painted however.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Jul 11, 2020, at 12:42 PM, Bud Rindfleisch <BlackDiamondRR@...> wrote:

I've found "button head" screws from Micro Fasteners to be very low profile.I bought them in 2-56 and 0-80. They use a small allen wrench of which the size escapes me right now. I like the way they look compared to a phillips cross slot when underbody detailing is important.
     The attached pic is on my S scale scratchbuilt underframe for an LV caboose I'm converting to scale from Am Flyer. I use the 0-80 with the Kadee 802 couplers.
      Bud Rindfleisch
<LV AM Flyer caboose project 7-5-15 002.jpg>


Re: AC&Y 1400-1466 series gondolas

Bob Weston
 

Tichy model is not correct for this car. Tichy has 9 panels while the AC&Y car has 11.
Bob Weston


AC&Y Gon

Bob Weston
 

AC&Y gon reportedly made by Magor and acquired second hand in 1919. Are there any HO models of this car? 


Re: About match-making (so to speak)

Gary Ray
 

Even though Barberton, Ohio, was the original site of Diamond Match, they had a hugh west coast factory occupying 280 acres in Barber, CA (now part of Chico).  The first air conditioning system for industry was developed for this facility for the summer months (101 yesterday @ 6 pm).  This helped eliminate Fumes that would build up causing phosphorus necrosis.  I’ve attached a couple of photos.  The first is feeding the blocks and the second is cutting blocks and setting matches into plates.  These photos are from the Ohio facility.

 

Gary Ray

Magalia, CA

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Klosterman
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2020 9:18 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] About match-making (so to speak)

 

Eventually (early 20th century) most of the matches in the US were manufactured in Barberton, Ohio [Diamond Match and others served by the A&BBRR (the "Belt Line") from interchange with the PRR] and Wadsworth, Ohio (nearby and served by the Erie). Many men in Barberton worked at the match factories. My father, as a youth, worked as a "block feeder," feeding blocks of (probably) these or similar blocks made from trees like this into a machine that produced matchsticks. My Grandfather worked in the dipping tank area. The Blue Tip Match was made in Wadsworth with the same equipment until the 1980's. The town still celebrates the Blue Tip Festival. 
Diamond match was started and owned by Ohio Columbus Barber (who planned and started the town), hence "Barberton." He also started the Belt Line (and many other manufacturers in town) and eventually sold it to a combination of PRR. B&O, Erie and maybe the AC&Y.  Interesting history here.


Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: Photo: Western Maryland Hopper 20165 With Coal Load

Bob Chaparro
 

Paul Catapano commented:

"This is a photo of a Channel side hopper. Western Maryland had quite a fleet of these.

There is a model available from Stewart, I own about 50 of them, but they are not strictly accurate. NOT STRICTLY.

The best starting point to scratch build, or more accurately, kit bash one, is with the Bowser PRR Gla."


Coupler Mounting Screws

Paul Catapano
 

I found a surplus hardware store in Burbank, Ca. (Joe Factor Hardware now Luky’s Hardware) that sold assorted 2-56 screws for $1 a POUND (Know how many 2-56 x 3/16 pan head screws are in a pound? A whole lot!)
I bought every type, version, and length of 2-56 screw they had;
Brass, steel, stainless steel, pan head, counter sunk, round head, etc.
They also had washers for these screws, thin enough to use for minor coupler height adjustment.
Check on line for surplus hardware stores near you, or try screw and bolt suppliers and buy in bulk.
I know McMaster-Carr carries a wide variety.



Paul Catapano
Winchester, Va.


Re: Coupler Mounting Screws

Bud Rindfleisch
 

I've found "button head" screws from Micro Fasteners to be very low profile.I bought them in 2-56 and 0-80. They use a small allen wrench of which the size escapes me right now. I like the way they look compared to a phillips cross slot when underbody detailing is important.
     The attached pic is on my S scale scratchbuilt underframe for an LV caboose I'm converting to scale from Am Flyer. I use the 0-80 with the Kadee 802 couplers.
      Bud Rindfleisch


Re: B&O double sheathed boxcar with single sheathed ends?

Bruce Smith
 

I concur, and will add that it is an early production X29, with short upper door track, car builder's door, and door stops at 1/3 and 2/3 door height. An additional X29 with similar features is just ahead of the UP box on the far right. The WLE car to the left of our subject B&O car is an "X29 clone", and there is another X29 or similar car just in front of it and several more X29 or X29-like cars can be found. That should come as no surprise given that next to the home road, they should be the most common single class of car in yard, along with the NYC "steel USRA car" due to their number in the fleet.

Lots of other interesting cars.
The round roof PRR boxcar 3 tracks top the right, PRR 59168, is class X32a (flush roof, no autoloaders)
A SOUTHERN Steel automobile car next track to the left of the WLE car and SOUTHERN 15744 in the lover right corner.
Lots of radial roof cars
Lots of interesting tank cars, including the EORX tank just ahead of the B&O car, with classic opposing safety valves and bolsters for Standard Tank Car Co construction

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Schleigh Mike via groups.io <mike_schleigh@...>
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2020 10:50 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io <main@realstmfc.groups.io>; main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] B&O double sheathed boxcar with single sheathed ends?
 
PRR 570940 = PRR  class X(no hyphen)29 in 1946.

Mike Schleigh in wet Grove City, Penna.

On Saturday, July 11, 2020, 11:45:00 AM EDT, Paul R Greenwald <pennsyrrfan4905@...> wrote:


Bruce -

There is a PRR steel box car (570940) on the the next track to the left.  Any idea what class it is?

Paul R Greenwald 
PRRT&HS 1802
NMRA #129229 

--
Paul R Greenwald 
PRRT&HS #1802
NMRA #129229


Re: About match-making (so to speak)

Thomas Klosterman
 

Eventually (early 20th century) most of the matches in the US were manufactured in Barberton, Ohio [Diamond Match and others served by the A&BBRR (the "Belt Line") from interchange with the PRR] and Wadsworth, Ohio (nearby and served by the Erie). Many men in Barberton worked at the match factories. My father, as a youth, worked as a "block feeder," feeding blocks of (probably) these or similar blocks made from trees like this into a machine that produced matchsticks. My Grandfather worked in the dipping tank area. The Blue Tip Match was made in Wadsworth with the same equipment until the 1980's. The town still celebrates the Blue Tip Festival. 
Diamond match was started and owned by Ohio Columbus Barber (who planned and started the town), hence "Barberton." He also started the Belt Line (and many other manufacturers in town) and eventually sold it to a combination of PRR. B&O, Erie and maybe the AC&Y.  Interesting history here.


Photo: B&O Livestock Cars & Cattle Pen

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: B&O Livestock Cars & Cattle Pen

An undated photo from West Virginia University:

https://wvhistoryonview.org/image/038460.jpg

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

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