Date   

Erie 82000-82499

mopacfirst
 

What trucks were under these cars, especially in the 60s era?

Photos on line show National B-1, ASF S-3, and Barber or something similar.

Ron Merrick


Re: Bowser Cal-Scale/Cary parts

Peter Hall
 

Some sort of glitch on my end, I guess.  It works now.

Thanks
Pete

On Jul 27, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:

Peter Hall asked:
"Has anyone ordered from Bowser in the past few days?  Their website doesn't seem to be working, and I was wondering if it's only a temporary problem, or something else?"

Just accessed their website with no issues.  Did you try calling?
Information: (570) 368-2379
Orders: (800) 327-5126


Ben Hom







Re: Experimentation on modeling inside details of Youngstown doors

Jim Hayes
 

Attaboy! Looks great.

Jim

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 12:42 PM Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:
Hello-

With my intent years ago to model thin 2-sided Youngstown Steel Doors in HO I gave it a try last week.

This is my first casting with this thin molded YSD. This photo is of the back side of an HO Youngstown pre-war 5/6/5-T door, usually used on 10'6" IH modified '37 AAR box cars. I have been able to keep it close to scale thickness. Yes, the panels are thin; about 0.006".

I will try to cast in Urethane resin, but for this cast I used J. B. Weld original epoxy.  Next door will be an overnight 5/5/5 interim improved Youngstown door used solely for the SP.

I already have a car side which I have scribbed interior sheathing and also the smooth vertical door frame on each side of the door opening. The other side will not need this scribbing but will have the door glued in the open position. With the peek-through view the scribbed side will have the inside detailed door in the closed position, allowing this through-the-car-side interior view. I am hoping further research shows that the GN stenciled the car numbers on the top of the doors.

Regards,
-Andy Carlson,  Ojai CA
Inline image


Experimentation on modeling inside details of Youngstown doors

Andy Carlson
 

Hello-

With my intent years ago to model thin 2-sided Youngstown Steel Doors in HO I gave it a try last week.

This is my first casting with this thin molded YSD. This photo is of the back side of an HO Youngstown pre-war 5/6/5-T door, usually used on 10'6" IH modified '37 AAR box cars. I have been able to keep it close to scale thickness. Yes, the panels are thin; about 0.006".

I will try to cast in Urethane resin, but for this cast I used J. B. Weld original epoxy.  Next door will be an overnight 5/5/5 interim improved Youngstown door used solely for the SP.

I already have a car side which I have scribbed interior sheathing and also the smooth vertical door frame on each side of the door opening. The other side will not need this scribbing but will have the door glued in the open position. With the peek-through view the scribbed side will have the inside detailed door in the closed position, allowing this through-the-car-side interior view. I am hoping further research shows that the GN stenciled the car numbers on the top of the doors.

Regards,
-Andy Carlson,  Ojai CA
Inline image


Re: Reboxx Reboot

Schuyler Larrabee
 

JP is generally unavailable.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Donald B. Valentine via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 5:30 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Reboxx Reboot

 

 

With a Los Angeles address shown on the new website it appears to me that J.P.

has sold Reboox. Having known him and visited with him for nearly 50 years, but

not having seen him in the last 5. I’ll try to call him at home to see what can be

learned.

 

Cordially, Don Valentine

 


Re: Bowser Cal-Scale/Cary parts

Benjamin Hom
 

Peter Hall asked:
"Has anyone ordered from Bowser in the past few days?  Their website doesn't seem to be working, and I was wondering if it's only a temporary problem, or something else?"

Just accessed their website with no issues.  Did you try calling?
Information: (570) 368-2379
Orders: (800) 327-5126


Ben Hom


Bowser Cal-Scale/Cary parts

Peter Hall
 

Has anyone ordered from Bowser in the past few days?  Their website doesn't seem to be working, and I was wondering if it's only a temporary problem, or something else?


Re: some steam era work train equipment images

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

 

What’s the mystery about the L&N sand car, Claus? Looks to me like a standard tender

frame from a smaller steam loco with a home built bunker for sand added to it. A lot of

steamers went to scrap with perfectly good tenders or tender frames if the tank was shot.

 

Cordially, Don Valentine

 


Re: Reboxx Reboot

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

 

With a Los Angeles address shown on the new website it appears to me that J.P.

has sold Reboox. Having known him and visited with him for nearly 50 years, but

not having seen him in the last 5. I’ll try to call him at home to see what can be

learned.

 

Cordially, Don Valentine

 


Re: Photo: Southern Ventilated Boxcar

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

y

    Thanks for the photo of a Southern Rwy. Ventilated boxcar Bob. I’ve know they had some but never had a photo of one before. But a “hay stacker” in the foreground? I don’t think so. What you see is an ordinary buck rake like my father used to bring our hay in when I was of school age only ours was mounted on the Ford Model 8N tractor that it was made for. The one in the photo is obviously horse drawn as where early hay stackers as well but they were considerably more complex than this buck rake.

 

Cordially, Don Valentine

 


Re: Photo: MDTX 18122

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

 

    Given the way a reefer is sealed I would expect it would at least initially float in flood waters if it were empty. MDTX #18122, judging by the high water mark on its end, does not appear to have done so, nor

do the cars beyond it. This leads me to conclude that all were loaded. While not knowing what the boxcars might have been loaded with means it would be difficult to comment about the condition of their loads, I’ll venture to guess that that of the reefer must be a total loss.

 

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: HO Red Caboose Post-War Welded Tank Car-Improved

Iain Kirk
 

Now that is a nice looking beastie...

Iain Kirk,
Padgate,
Warrington.

On 23 Jul 2020, at 05:09, pennsylvania1954 <stevehprr@...> wrote:

A few months ago I received this Red Caboose 10000 gal AC&F car as a kit lettered for UTLX. I had seen some unfavorable comments previously so I asked what improvements were needed. A very helpful list member forwarded Mont Switzer's excellent article from the Sept 1995 Mainline Modeler. After studying Mont's article and prototype photos, I decided that there was more that could be done. I have included the official AC&F photo which was most helpful. The most prominent issues I saw were the location and shape of the handrail. Red Caboose saw fit to locate the handrail at the midline of the tank. I thought it should be a bit higher. This was particularly noticeable on this UTLX version with the reporting marks visibly incorrect above the handrail. The brackets cast as part of the tank were easily removed, and new brackets, Detail Associates eyebolts, located and installed. I found the square corners of the original handrail objectionable so I fashioned a new one from brass wire. The photo shows weathering only partially done with grime airbrushed on the lower part of the car. The trucks are Exactrail Barber S2.

 

The UTLX number Red Caboose chose was 85339. Checking in my Jan 1955 ORER, I found series 80000 – 85999 for 100000 lb TL cars but only one car in the series. Must have been 85339. Seems a bit odd but I am sticking to it.

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL



--
Iain Kirk 
Padgate 
Cheshire 


Re: Steam Era Spray trains

Brian Shumaker
 

Oh, I gotta build me one of those NALX trains! Anyone have a side view?
Brian


Re: B&M covered hopper 5599 / KCEX #119

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

     Nor is there any listing back as far as July 1947.  Something might

be off in Tim’s notes.

 

My best, Don Valentine

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


Re: SLSX stock cars and NISX confirmation

Rich Yoder
 

Hi Peter,

It’s not a former Mather car. The structural members are too heavy. Mather didn’t use traditional Railroad shapes when it came to building their cars. And it doesn’t have the Mather Patented roof which had a 6” Overhang.  

I attached a  Mather single deck Stock car photo of car NIX Number 479  taken after 1959.

Sincerely,

Rich Yoder

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Peter Ness
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 8:44 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] SLSX stock cars and NISX confirmation

 

Hi Doug,

 

Thanks very much. Attached my photo of SLSX 71548, which I am fairly certain is double deck with only two doors.  Is it possible the 71000-series contained both 2- and 4-door versions? Is it possible to identify if this is a Mather stock car?

 

The photo I have of NISX 3132 is undated, but definitely a 40-foot car and painted green.  Unlike the reporting marks, the letterboard on the car side seems to read “NTX” or ”NITX” with some small lettering underneath. From previous STMFC messages, it would appear green cars were leased to NYC.

 

I don’t know much about stock cars, and maybe the answer to this is in the archives; While Mathers (later North American) leased the cars, I believe many were painted in the lessee scheme? So, if there are no NISX reporting marks in say, a 1960 ORER (which would list many cars rostered in 1959) how would I go about learning the predecessor lessee of NISX cars? What I am trying to resolve: if NISX 3132 is not appropriate for 1959, who was it leased to and what were the reporting marks and number (or number series) before it was assigned as NISX 3132?

 

Stay healthy,

Peter


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Re: Image of CP 238149 40ft ss box 1952 Lowell IN

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I imagine it took the owners of the gas stations to the left a good long while to stop hyperventilating!

Could have been a bonfire!

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mont Switzer
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2020 1:27 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Image of CP 238149 40ft ss box 1952 Lowell IN

 

This wreck was on the Monon just south of the railroad's northern terminus, South Hammond, IN.  Among the damage is the remains of the Lowell station.  They had to build a new one.  

 

Mont Switzer


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] on behalf of Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;) [claus@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 9:13 PM
To: STMFC
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Image of CP 238149 40ft ss box 1952 Lowell IN

Hi List Members,

 

Image of CP 238149 40ft ss box 1952 Lowell IN

 

 

Enjoy!

 

Claus Schlund

 


 


Re: Intermountain underframes

mopacfirst
 

So it appears that the answer to my direct question is no, nobody had been able to get separate Apex-type roofwalks from IM.  I rate them as more durable than Kadee, only because the Kadee (at least the older ones) suffer from a disease where they curl up at the ends.  I've mixed and matched many roofwalks over the years, with the exception that for wood roofwalks, I've preferred the molded plastic ones rather than real wood.  Using Tru-Color colors Weathered Gray Wood and Seasoned Brown Wood, I've developed a technique for painting and dry-brushing these so they look weathered.

Side comment:  I got a PFE R-40-10 the other day, probably an old stock or used, and it had a wood-appearing roofwalk that was actually metal.  Never saw that before.  Of course, it was detached and bowed in the middle so I'll probably replace it with a plastic one.

I think I have picked up one or two of the Kadee Gypsum expanded metal ones, so at my first opportunity I'll install one of those.  I do have several of the IM molded plastic ones on various cars, not always on the car bodies they came with, and I suspect the Kadee ones will look better.

Ron Merrick


Re: Recent painting experiences

Rob & Bev Manley
 

Pete,
Thanks for the tip. I'll check tose out, next stroll to the North Side. 
BTW are you related to John, Bill, Edward and Frank Cesaro? I grew up with them.

Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Monday, July 27, 2020, 11:37:01 AM CDT, Pete C <sp4450@...> wrote:


Rob, 
  Golden is well known and very high quality brand.  For their acrylics they have a hardener that helps it bond to non-porous surfaces like plastic and resin.  It’s called GAC 200, here’s a link if you’re interested in looking into it. https://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medium-gels-pastes/special-purpose-mediums

Pete Cesaro 

On Jul 27, 2020, at 12:14 PM, Rob & Bev Manley <robev1630@...> wrote:


Eric,
Thanks for the tip on "airbrush ready" Valejo. I may have to give it a try. I am currently using a sprayable Acrylic from the Art store. The price is much lower and larger quantities. Golden Acrylic is the brand name. I am using a (Burnt?) Sienna that I like for color and performance. I add a few drops of Flo Aide to this. It has a semi matte finish which is compatible with my Future/Pledge gloss coat. I am running low on Model Master Flat and have been working with Windsor Newton Galleria Matte Varnish. Like Future/Pledge, I use no thinner. It's in a big 8oz. bottle and about $8.00. I ordered it online from Blick (art store). They have stores in the Chicagoland area and Galesburg. Just what a Burlington Man likes. 
    My pre-prep consists of a wash in Dawn ,rinse and wash with SHOUT, more Dawn and sometimes Barkeepers Friend. I have yet to use a primer. I'll be looking into that. The Styleneze from Tamiya is what the military modelers use. 
    On the occasional goof, I have a sink next to me and I spray it down with SHOUT and scrub. 

Sincerely,
Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Monday, July 27, 2020, 08:56:30 AM CDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:


I share a couple of paint failures on my latest blog post. Don't worry, they turned out well at the end.



Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN


Re: Recent painting experiences

Pete C
 

Rob, 
  Golden is well known and very high quality brand.  For their acrylics they have a hardener that helps it bond to non-porous surfaces like plastic and resin.  It’s called GAC 200, here’s a link if you’re interested in looking into it. https://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medium-gels-pastes/special-purpose-mediums

Pete Cesaro 

On Jul 27, 2020, at 12:14 PM, Rob & Bev Manley <robev1630@...> wrote:


Eric,
Thanks for the tip on "airbrush ready" Valejo. I may have to give it a try. I am currently using a sprayable Acrylic from the Art store. The price is much lower and larger quantities. Golden Acrylic is the brand name. I am using a (Burnt?) Sienna that I like for color and performance. I add a few drops of Flo Aide to this. It has a semi matte finish which is compatible with my Future/Pledge gloss coat. I am running low on Model Master Flat and have been working with Windsor Newton Galleria Matte Varnish. Like Future/Pledge, I use no thinner. It's in a big 8oz. bottle and about $8.00. I ordered it online from Blick (art store). They have stores in the Chicagoland area and Galesburg. Just what a Burlington Man likes. 
    My pre-prep consists of a wash in Dawn ,rinse and wash with SHOUT, more Dawn and sometimes Barkeepers Friend. I have yet to use a primer. I'll be looking into that. The Styleneze from Tamiya is what the military modelers use. 
    On the occasional goof, I have a sink next to me and I spray it down with SHOUT and scrub. 

Sincerely,
Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Monday, July 27, 2020, 08:56:30 AM CDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:


I share a couple of paint failures on my latest blog post. Don't worry, they turned out well at the end.



Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN


Re: Recent painting experiences

Rob & Bev Manley
 

Eric,
Thanks for the tip on "airbrush ready" Valejo. I may have to give it a try. I am currently using a sprayable Acrylic from the Art store. The price is much lower and larger quantities. Golden Acrylic is the brand name. I am using a (Burnt?) Sienna that I like for color and performance. I add a few drops of Flo Aide to this. It has a semi matte finish which is compatible with my Future/Pledge gloss coat. I am running low on Model Master Flat and have been working with Windsor Newton Galleria Matte Varnish. Like Future/Pledge, I use no thinner. It's in a big 8oz. bottle and about $8.00. I ordered it online from Blick (art store). They have stores in the Chicagoland area and Galesburg. Just what a Burlington Man likes. 
    My pre-prep consists of a wash in Dawn ,rinse and wash with SHOUT, more Dawn and sometimes Barkeepers Friend. I have yet to use a primer. I'll be looking into that. The Styleneze from Tamiya is what the military modelers use. 
    On the occasional goof, I have a sink next to me and I spray it down with SHOUT and scrub. 

Sincerely,
Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Monday, July 27, 2020, 08:56:30 AM CDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:


I share a couple of paint failures on my latest blog post. Don't worry, they turned out well at the end.



Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

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