Date   

Re: Another color image: HO WP 1916 built 40' SS box car resin parts

Garth Groff and Sally Sanford
 

Eric, 

No Pullman, WP 15001-16000. A few hung on into the 1960s, mostly in plaster service out of Gerlach, Nevada, as series 26001-26125. Many were converted to stock cars, MW service, and the WP's famous single-sheathed cupola and bay-window cabooses. None are known to survive in original condition, but a mess of the cabooses are still around in preservation, on tourist railroads, and in use as vacation cabins.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🦆

On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 7:34 PM Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:
Were these Bettendorf-built cars?


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Sep 23, 2020, at 6:21 PM, Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:





Hello-

I have been preparing a return to offering a select few resin HO box cars. The tooling for this HO box car was made over 20 years ago.

I have enough parts for two of these WP box cars.



I accept checks or money orders. With a small fee I accept PayPal.

Contact me at <midcentury@...> of list please.


<Screen Shot 2020-09-23 at 3.54.10 PM.png>

Thanks,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Central Valley Stock Car Roof Ideas

Garth Groff and Sally Sanford
 

Friends,

I've been toying with some parts and unfinished kits in my stash this evening. I have little use for the Central Valley NP stock car kit, but have been examining the arched roof for possible use on other projects. The roof is rather wide at its extreme overhang, but the distance of 9 scale feet over the two ridges that project down into the car body is very close to the width on Red Caboose or Intermountain roofs AAR roofs I have in my stash. The stock car kits ends are a very close match in width to the ends on the F&C 1932 steel boxcar. I'm thinking the stock car roof might work for one of the C&O ARA boxcars that had radial roofs. The overhang might be trimmed back, or I could slice it down the middle and after some file work put the pieces back together. New ribs I suppose, but that's not all that difficult.

And what to do with the rest of the stock car? Well, it might get me chased off this group, but I might be able to drop an Intermountain roof onto the stock car body to make a freelanced car for my Virginia Midland. 

Comments, suggestions, other possible projects (I have two of the stock car kits; sorry, but I don't want to sell them at this time).

As if I don't have enough unfinished projects.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🦆


Re: Another color image: HO WP 1916 built 40' SS box car resin parts

Eric Hansmann
 

Were these Bettendorf-built cars?


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Sep 23, 2020, at 6:21 PM, Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:





Hello-

I have been preparing a return to offering a select few resin HO box cars. The tooling for this HO box car was made over 20 years ago.

I have enough parts for two of these WP box cars.



I accept checks or money orders. With a small fee I accept PayPal.

Contact me at <midcentury@...> of list please.


<Screen Shot 2020-09-23 at 3.54.10 PM.png>

Thanks,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Another color image: HO WP 1916 built 40' SS box car resin parts

Andy Carlson
 





Hello-

I have been preparing a return to offering a select few resin HO box cars. The tooling for this HO box car was made over 20 years ago.

I have enough parts for two of these WP box cars.



I accept checks or money orders. With a small fee I accept PayPal.

Contact me at <midcentury@...> of list please.


Inline image

Thanks,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Offered: HO WP 1916 built 40' SS box car resin parts

Andy Carlson
 

Hello-

I have been preparing a return to offering a select few resin HO box cars. The tooling for this HO box car was made over 20 years ago.

I have enough parts for two of these WP box cars.

The buyer will get the following parts for two cars:

4 SS sides
2 plain ends
2 ends with lumber doors
2 roofs (Newly re-tooled to correct drawing errors)
Several roof support cross ties
2 underframes
2 sets of underframe cross members and cross ties

The sides will need to be warmed up to correct a slight inward curvature

Because of the sides I am reducing the price for these 2 cars.
Purchase both cars with shipping for $85.00

No paint, decals, trucks brake equipment are included.
I have just the two to be offered and are sold as a pair.

I accept checks or money orders. With a small fee I accept PayPal.

Contact me at <midcentury@...> of list please.





Re: Using Pledge (Future)

james murrie
 

I've used it for many years to do things like gluing windows in rail cars.  Works like any white glue, but flows great and doesn't show where it hit the "glass".
Jim Murrie


Weathering interiors

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Group;

 

And more, note how different cars of the same RR and class looked.  The end result in that your cars should look different.  Especially hoppers and gondolas.

 

That bluish cast in that H21A is real.  I remember that very well from my years crawling around inside these cars.  It is not just the last load they carried, it was the abrasion down to bare steel.

 

We could engage in endless speculation, but this is the proof.

 

Elden Gatwood


Re: Question about weathering

Tony Thompson
 

      I have a fairly extensive and well illustrated description of using acrylic washes, in what are called "Reference pages" on my blog. They are found in the upper right corner of each blog post. Here is a link to Part 1, which is the basics (there is also a Part 2 with more advanced and more detailed aspects):


I continue to rely primarily on this method, with assists from artist's color pencils and Pan-Pastels for added effects.

Tony Thompson




Re: Using Pledge (Future)

Rob & Bev Manley
 

Ken,
I have been using Pledge for about 30 years as my gloss coat prior to decaling. It works well with acrylic paints and makes decaling a breeze. Some times it might show a muddiness in the target area but it will go away. Much like white glue turns clear. I have a nickel plated Oriental Twin Cities Zephyr and 2 E-7s that I used it on and the finish has never cracked or failed. You can even cut the Future with a little Silver to tone down the shiny plating as shown in an old Mainline Modeler article by Bob Kosic. He didn't use Future, I did. 
Another use is to attach Photo Etch parts by using a small artist watercolor brush. It worked great on my Genesis Farr air filter grills. It is an acrylic product and has some flexibility, unlike ACC. 
Use full strength in your airbrush and don't lay it on too thick as it will run. If you notice this, take it to the sink and scrub the model with a toothbrush and Windex. So yes, no thinning required. 
The military guys say you can add Talcum to it to make your own Flat finish. I haven't tried that.

Sincerely,
Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 11:29:22 AM CDT, Ken Adams <smadanek44g@...> wrote:


I have even been known to use it on my Pergo floors without harm. Let us hope that J&J never tries to "improve" it in our lifetimes...
--
Ken Adams
Still in splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek


Re: Question about weathering

Rob & Bev Manley
 

Ray,
Ten years ago I was on a mission to find the ultimate weathering product. I liked chalks but didn't like the vanishing act they perform when overcoated with a flat finish. By the way my favorite Flats are Scalecoat, Model Master and......Windsor Newton Galleria Acrylic Flat in the 8oz. bottle for about $8.00. At Blick art store I walked into this PanPastel display. I was intrigued by their Oxide Red color and about 6 others. Bev would only let me buy one because she knew I had tried powders, chalks and others with little happiness. Unlike other modelers I picked up my Central Valley NP stock car, not a Bluebox boxcar, and attacked the roof. It was everything I wanted. easy application and professional looking color. 
The only weathering product I know of that is forgiving and mostly removable is Pan Pastel. I say "mostly" because White painted models will show a ghost of the color when removed. 
Pan Pastel is a high grade Artist product made of mostly pigment with a binder added, 96 colors plus a "Colorless Blender" that allows you to tone down the color to more of a tint. You need a good Flat finish on the model first and can apply with their SofftTools applicators, Micro-Brushes or artist oil brushes for tight spaces.
I have been doing RPM clinics on these for years and also have a Blog on their website for us modelers.
Modelingcolors.com
There are quite a few and at the bottom of the pages is a note to click on for more. Pan Pastel is also usable likw a water based product. You can apply to wood and use as a stain. It mixes well with watercolor pencils like the Derwent brand. 
Honestly, it's the only thing I use now. My airbrush is only for painting and flat finishing. You have the option of using a Flat to protect the Pan Pastels from heavy handling or not. I stopped using an overcoat and I am always taking y rolling stock in and out of my A-Line carrying trays. I haven't noticed any significant loss of color. 
When applying the color you should put some pressure on the applicator, that helps it bond to the surface.
Thank you for allowing me to share this.
Attached is a Rock Island B-unit that I matched to a fodo from
 Fallenflags.com
The CB&Q gondola is a mandatory freight car WIP content. This shows how to use Pan Pastel as a stain.

Sincerely,
Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 12:12:41 PM CDT, Aley, Jeff A <jeff.a.aley@...> wrote:


Brianna, it seems, independently discovered one of the corollaries to Murphy’s Law: “There are two kinds of dirt – the dark kind, which is attracted to light objects, and the light kind, which is attracted to dark objects.”

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bruce Smith
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 7:43 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Question about weathering

 

Ray, Jim,

 

Additional commentary interspersed ;)

 

On Sep 23, 2020, at 9:21 AM, Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:

 

  2) Darker colors on the roof and lighter colors on the bottom.

 

As a rule of thumb, everything goes towards a mid-tone. Brianna, my daughter, and I gave a clinic at an SER NMRA annual convention when she was the tender age of 5. She had many things to contribute, but perhaps the most seminal was “If it is light, make it darker, and if it is dark, make it lighter”.  BTW, the old theater adage “don’t work with children and animals” is entirely true. Brianna stole the show. 

 

And no pressure, but if a 5-year old can weather cars, so can you ;)



  3) Cars sit more than they move - a lot more.  So any "streaks"
       need to be vertical rather than horizontal.

 

Except passenger cars and head end cars, which may have a more all-over weathering pattern, with some horizontal aspects. Locomotives also have patterns that both relate to gravity and movement.



  5) A final light dusting with an air brush helps a lot - I call this the
      "blending coat" - I usually use a very thin "weathered black" color
      for this but have also used just dullcoat and other such.

 

Vary this color to vary your weathering. Alternative are Harbor Mist Grey, Railroad tie brown, 



  6) Weathered equipment is never "shiny".

 

In real life, some equipment can retain a shine, whilst being weathered. However, I have never found that gloss looks anything but “toy-like” on a model, even if the prototype was shiny.



 10) Rust is a job best done sparingly.

 

And remember that there are infinite shades of rust.

 

P.S. There are many different 'methods' - I prefer acrylic washes.

        Some guys prefer pan pastels.  Some guys like to do it all
        using an air brush (I consider this to be the least successful).
        In the end you will develop your own 'process'.  Don't forget
        to vary what you do from car to car - such as the shade of
        this coat, how much of a particular coat you use, what order
        you do different steps, etc.

 

I try to use different methods to mix things up to avoid the everything looks the same problem, but also to build skills with different media. 

 

Regards

Bruce

 

Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

 

 


Re: Proto 2000 Stock Car

Ray Breyer
 

Hi Rich, 

Lots of reasearch. I'm currently looking at the Mather fleet from 1880 on, and am slowly compiling data (slowly, since their company records don't exist. I'm having to read basically every page from every ORER and trade magazine looking for clues. Once that's done I'll read through all of the ICC Val Reports. MCBA, ARA, and ICC reports are also being waded through).

Richard's pieces on the Mather fleet really don't start until WWII; I'm focusing on what happened before that. As the third largest private car fleet, Mather deserves a real examination. Once done, I'll probably "publish" on Eric Hansmann's blog.

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL


On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 12:17:33 PM CDT, Rich Yoder <oscale48@...> wrote:


Hi Ray,

What’s your source of information for the “Stretching of the 36” Mather stock cars to 40”?

Rich Yoder

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ray Breyer via groups.io
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 5:23 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io; main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Proto 2000 Stock Car

 

Yes and no. Those original 40 foot Mather stock cars were stretched 36-footers, which they had too many of and which nobody wanted to lease. They started stretching them around 1928, but forgot that the center sills were a bit small (6" C channel, IIRC). They tended to sag a little too much, so Mather added two trussrods along the center sill to strengthen it (traditionally, trussrods are used to hold an all-wood BODY together, not a steel frame).

 

By the early Depression years the stretched cars, and the newly built 40-footers, had a stronger underframe, and the trussrods were eliminated. I have a few photos of WWII-era Mather cars that still have the rods, mostly on long term lease C&NW cars.

 

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL

 

 

 

On Monday, September 21, 2020, 06:08:54 AM CDT, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:

 

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Circa 1939 photos I own show L&N and CNW Mather stock cars with truss rod u/f.

Bill Welch


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Roundhouse MP Auto Car Completed

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Really nice car, John!

 

Elden Gatwood

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of golden1014 via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2020 3:55 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Roundhouse MP Auto Car Completed

 

Hi Guys,

Thought you'd like to se my MP auto car I just finished this weekend.  I used Ted's decal set and the model turned out pretty well.  It has a few problems, namely the door tracks are completely prototypical, and I left in the lumber door in the A end.  Also I need to swap out the trucks with TMW spring-plankless type.  I'll do an extensive write-up on my blog soon.





John Golden


Re: Photo: Erie Boxcar 86601 (1915)

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

This is one of the Erie’s version of what is properly known as the Dominion car. Whether in incorporated

use of the Fowler patent used for the first few thousand Dominion cars constructed I do not know. The N.C.&St.L. also had cars of this type.

 

Cordially, Don Valentine

 

 


Re: Proto 2000 Stock Car

Rich Yoder
 

Hi Ray,

What’s your source of information for the “Stretching of the 36” Mather stock cars to 40”?

Rich Yoder

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ray Breyer via groups.io
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 5:23 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io; main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Proto 2000 Stock Car

 

Yes and no. Those original 40 foot Mather stock cars were stretched 36-footers, which they had too many of and which nobody wanted to lease. They started stretching them around 1928, but forgot that the center sills were a bit small (6" C channel, IIRC). They tended to sag a little too much, so Mather added two trussrods along the center sill to strengthen it (traditionally, trussrods are used to hold an all-wood BODY together, not a steel frame).

 

By the early Depression years the stretched cars, and the newly built 40-footers, had a stronger underframe, and the trussrods were eliminated. I have a few photos of WWII-era Mather cars that still have the rods, mostly on long term lease C&NW cars.

 

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL

 

 

 

On Monday, September 21, 2020, 06:08:54 AM CDT, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:

 

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Circa 1939 photos I own show L&N and CNW Mather stock cars with truss rod u/f.

Bill Welch


Roundhouse MP Auto Car Completed

golden1014
 

Hi Guys,

Thought you'd like to se my MP auto car I just finished this weekend.  I used Ted's decal set and the model turned out pretty well.  It has a few problems, namely the door tracks are completely prototypical, and I left in the lumber door in the A end.  Also I need to swap out the trucks with TMW spring-plankless type.  I'll do an extensive write-up on my blog soon.





John Golden


Re: What car is this on the Rio Grande?

Jim Allen
 

Thank you for the info on Silver Streak.  I’m an O scaler. 

Jim Allen
Visit www.oscaledirectory.com


--
Jim Allen
Utah


Re: Question about weathering

Aley, Jeff A
 

Brianna, it seems, independently discovered one of the corollaries to Murphy’s Law: “There are two kinds of dirt – the dark kind, which is attracted to light objects, and the light kind, which is attracted to dark objects.”

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bruce Smith
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 7:43 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Question about weathering

 

Ray, Jim,

 

Additional commentary interspersed ;)

 

On Sep 23, 2020, at 9:21 AM, Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:

 

  2) Darker colors on the roof and lighter colors on the bottom.

 

As a rule of thumb, everything goes towards a mid-tone. Brianna, my daughter, and I gave a clinic at an SER NMRA annual convention when she was the tender age of 5. She had many things to contribute, but perhaps the most seminal was “If it is light, make it darker, and if it is dark, make it lighter”.  BTW, the old theater adage “don’t work with children and animals” is entirely true. Brianna stole the show. 

 

And no pressure, but if a 5-year old can weather cars, so can you ;)



  3) Cars sit more than they move - a lot more.  So any "streaks"
       need to be vertical rather than horizontal.

 

Except passenger cars and head end cars, which may have a more all-over weathering pattern, with some horizontal aspects. Locomotives also have patterns that both relate to gravity and movement.



  5) A final light dusting with an air brush helps a lot - I call this the
      "blending coat" - I usually use a very thin "weathered black" color
      for this but have also used just dullcoat and other such.

 

Vary this color to vary your weathering. Alternative are Harbor Mist Grey, Railroad tie brown, 



  6) Weathered equipment is never "shiny".

 

In real life, some equipment can retain a shine, whilst being weathered. However, I have never found that gloss looks anything but “toy-like” on a model, even if the prototype was shiny.



 10) Rust is a job best done sparingly.

 

And remember that there are infinite shades of rust.

 

P.S. There are many different 'methods' - I prefer acrylic washes.

        Some guys prefer pan pastels.  Some guys like to do it all
        using an air brush (I consider this to be the least successful).
        In the end you will develop your own 'process'.  Don't forget
        to vary what you do from car to car - such as the shade of
        this coat, how much of a particular coat you use, what order
        you do different steps, etc.

 

I try to use different methods to mix things up to avoid the everything looks the same problem, but also to build skills with different media. 

 

Regards

Bruce

 

Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

 

 


Re: Question about weathering

Benjamin Hom
 

My two cents:
1. Richard Hendrickson's article "Vintage Dating Freight Cars" in the December 1995 issue of Railmodel Journal is required reading, not for specific weathering techniques, but the importance of context in capturing the overall scene on your layout.  The article is available online at http://magazine.trainlife.com/rmj_1995_12/  .  (Go to page 32.)

In Richard's words,
"Freight car fleets keep evolving. Older cars are retired, modernized, rebuiIt and/or renumbered. New cars are delivered. New paint and lettering schemes are introduced and gradually replace earlier ones. The process is end­less, not only on the prototype railroad you're modeling but on the other lines whose cars turn up on your railroad in interchange service. Making your freight car models realistic, then, isn't enough; not only should each car repre­sent its prototype accurately but all your cars should look the way their pro­totypes did at the same moment in time."

Just as having a fleet of brand new cars is unrealistic, having an entire fleet weathered to the brink of extinction is also unrealistic.  (The most notorious example of this is a heavily weathered Athearn Santa Fe "Shock Control" boxcar that turned up regularly in photos of Sellios' Franklin & South Manchester.) 

2.  Weathering from memory is tough as what you initially think is credible weathering turns out to be atypical or odd.  (An example is the Ertl boxcars and gon "flood recovery" weathering.)  Keep color photos handy for inspiration - an excellent source is the Library of Congress Farm Security Administration/Office of War Information Colllection.  These are often misidentified on these lists as from "Shorpy" or "Collection of Shorpy", but the reality is these are in the public domain and available online, and the collection is far more extensive than what is posted on that blog.



Re: Using Pledge (Future)

Ken Adams
 

I have even been known to use it on my Pergo floors without harm. Let us hope that J&J never tries to "improve" it in our lifetimes...
--
Ken Adams
Still in splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek


Re: Using Pledge

Ken Adams
 

I hand brush Pledge as the self leveling action of the product does not require an air brush (which I can't use anyway.) I cover just the larger area the decal will go on such as the whole side of a car but not the roof. I don't feel I need to cover areas such as car roofs or underframe where no decals will be applied. Use a clean soft very fine bristle art brush to apply pledge. I clean the brushes with IPA and water immediately after use.

After decaling I spray with a rattle can Tamiya matte finish. 
--
Ken Adams
Still in splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek

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