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Photo: CN Boxcar 511477 (1931)
Photo: CN Boxcar 511477 (1931) A photo from the National Archives of Canada: https://www.bac-lac.gc.ca/eng/CollectionSearch/Pages/record.aspx?app=FonAndCol&IdNumber=3520060 This photo can be enlarged quite a bit. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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Photo: CP Gondola 132138
Photo: CP Gondola 132138 A photo from the National Archives of Canada: https://www.bac-lac.gc.ca/eng/CollectionSearch/Pages/record.aspx?app=FonAndCol&IdNumber=3285536 This photo can be enlarged quite a bit. Car Built 1931. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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Photo: Imperial Oil Tank Car 7044 (1937)
Photo: Imperial Oil Tank Car 7044 (1937) A photo from the National Archives of Canada: https://www.bac-lac.gc.ca/eng/CollectionSearch/Pages/record.aspx?app=FonAndCol&IdNumber=3603416 This photo can be enlarged quite a bit. Built 1937. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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Photo: Borden's Milk Tank Car 522 (Undated)
Photo: Borden's Milk Tank Car 522 (Undated) A photo from the National Archives of Canada: https://www.bac-lac.gc.ca/eng/CollectionSearch/Pages/record.aspx?app=FonAndCol&IdNumber=3607472 This photo can be enlarged quite a bit. Lettering to left looks like a bad decal job. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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Article: 40-Foot Mather Stock Cars From Proto 2000 HO Scale Kits
Article: 40-Foot Mather Stock Cars From Proto 2000 HO Scale Kits Courtesy of Train Life, here is a link to an article from the February 1997 issue of Railmodel Journal on single-deck livestock cars by Richard Hendrickson: http://magazine.trainlife.com/rmj_1997_2/ The article begins on Page 24. This is Part I of a series. Richard discusses the Mather company as well as modeling these cars. Also included is a chart listing the cars, with car numbers, Mather leased to the railroads. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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Re: Scalpels
I found the Olfa KB4-5 are much better chisel blades for shaving off unwanted details such as cast grab irons than Xacto #17. But I still need very narrow chisel blade for removing other details.
-- Ken Adams Still in splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io
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Re: Was there ever a clinic on Delano-based paint and weathering?
Robert kirkham
Hi Bill,
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Moving toward the “Delano look” seems to be a very long road for me. I’ve been custom mixing pain for quite a while, but it is challenging to land on shades that do justice to the real thing. And I too am borrowing from the endless Youtube content on weathering techniques and effects. The military guys have stretched my tool box. But I am not really content with the results I am achieving yet. The scale effect and indoor lighting are as much of the challenge as interpreting the photos. My question isn’t about CB&Q colours, but just to follow up on an earlier enquiry. I asked the other day about CB&Q paint - and was advised it was a Mineral red colour (which is, btw, helpful information as a starting point, and I appreciate it). It was noted that there are products on the market specifically labelled for this colour. And I can see how they are useful. Here’s a couple of examples of a heavily cropped Delano images that show colours I find very hard to duplicate indoors on a model. I’d say the last photo (taking into account all the interpretation challenges inherent in the photos, etc, etc) might be approximated using, for example, the TruColor CB&Q paint as a starting point. But the low light in that photo tends to create a colourful glow - I’m not so sure I want to model based on that. There is a huge range between the three cars. As many have said before, the colours tend to move toward each other, although there are few cars exactly alike. And there are a lot of cars that are the dark, washed out gray brown colour of the middle photo. (Yes, there is a significant atmospheric effect in the photo, but many other photos and light conditions show cars in the same dark tones.) Many other cars move to the pink range. And many others in the tan range. I find grey-brown, pink and tan paint very challenging to use on a model. I’m collecting stills from film footage of the early and mid 1940s. The angle of the camera to the car side also impacts how the paint is recorded. But they tend to show most colours lighter than the Delano shots. i.e. more pink, more tan, more gray-brown. So I am looking for what others who’ve delved into this have concluded and found in their experiments. Rob
On Nov 12, 2020, at 6:57 AM, Bill McClure <virginianbill@...> wrote: Rob, I don't know the answer to your question, but I will just add that I have been at this hobby, and weathering for a very long time. I have learned more in the last ten years about weathering from a late friend who, in addition to trains, modeled WWII armor and aircraft. He introduced me to Vallejo and other military modeling materials, and to techniques used in that world. There are many YouTube videos from masters of military modeling. I have spent a lot of time studying and experimenting with those approaches, adjusted for scale and lighting, etc., and have been very pleased with the results. To echo one of Ben's maxims, weathering done well cannot be quick and easy, in my opinion. And I love Jack Delano's photography! I just don't know how to get there under Cool White fluorescent lighting. :) Bill Bill McClure www.billmcclure.smugmug.com
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Re: Was there ever a clinic on Delano-based paint and weathering?
Bill McClure
Rob, I don't know the answer to your question, but I will just add that I have been at this hobby, and weathering for a very long time. I have learned more in the last ten years about weathering from a late friend who, in addition to trains, modeled WWII armor and aircraft. He introduced me to Vallejo and other military modeling materials, and to techniques used in that world. There are many YouTube videos from masters of military modeling. I have spent a lot of time studying and experimenting with those approaches, adjusted for scale and lighting, etc., and have been very pleased with the results. To echo one of Ben's maxims, weathering done well cannot be quick and easy, in my opinion. And I love Jack Delano's photography! I just don't know how to get there under Cool White fluorescent lighting. :) Bill Bill McClure www.billmcclure.smugmug.com
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Re: Was there ever a clinic on Delano-based paint and weathering?
Benjamin Hom
Rob Kirkham asked: "Just wondering if anyone ever did a clinic on finishing WWII era rolling stock based on the Delano photos in the Library of Congress? I'd love to know what conclusions the presenter reached. I see in the list archives some good old conversations about the photos, weathering, and Richard Hendrickson's comments about climbing on the rolling stock as a kid, and how really filthy the cars were; and that modellers who are used to seeing later era rolling stock find that hard to accept (I wonder if I'm among that crowd). In another place he commented that paint coats and how they weathered in later eras is different - and so, weathering techniques for later eras have less use for models set in the steam era." For starters, review Richard's article "Vintage Dating Freight Cars" starting on page 32 of the December 1995 issue of Railmodel Journal: This is required reading for anyone doing weathering, as the underlying argument holds for all eras - freight car fleets are dynamic; not everything is brand new not beat to death, but a range of vintages and repair. Almost all weathering "how-to" articles have the same flaws: 1. They can't see the forest for the trees (see above Hendrickson article). 2. The technique covered is presented as a silver bullet that will replicate every weathering effect. 3. The technique covered is "so easy, a vestie can do it". Ben Hom
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Re: Scalpels
Matt Goodman
Thanks for writing about this, Lester. I purchased a scalpel handle and #11 equivalent blades from a UK seller on Ebay a year or two ago. Around the same time, I also purchased two Olfa knives: A Designer Art Knife (AK5) and a Cushion Grip Art Knife (AK4).
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The blades for the AK4 are identical in shape to an XActo #11 (though thinner and sharper). The shape of the blade on the AK5 is about half that of a #11, and I’ve come to prefer that angle. It’s more usable in more situations than the #11 profile (for me). Long story short, If I buy another set of scalpel blades, they will be a profile similar to the Olfa AK5 blade. But then again, maybe I won’t buy more scalpel blades - the Designer Art knife as a whole is just a joy to handle - especially for tasks like cutting out decals. Links for reference. Favorite: Very nice but too heavy for model building: Matt Goodman Columbus, Ohio, US
On Nov 8, 2020, at 1:02 PM, Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote: If you have an interest in new tools or a new use for an old tool, my new blog post on scalpels and other handles as Xacto with scalpel blades is available for your read. Photos and writeup of scalpels are now available on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company. If you would like to take a look please do at the following link: http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/ Lester Breuer
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Was there ever a clinic on Delano-based paint and weathering?
Robert kirkham
Just wondering if anyone ever did a clinic on finishing WWII era rolling stock based on the Delano photos in the Library of Congress? I'd love to know what conclusions the presenter reached.
I see in the list archives some good old conversations about the photos, weathering, and Richard Hendrickson's comments about climbing on the rolling stock as a kid, and how really filthy the cars were; and that modellers who are used to seeing later era rolling stock find that hard to accept (I wonder if I'm among that crowd). In another place he commented that paint coats and how they weathered in later eras is different - and so, weathering techniques for later eras have less use for models set in the steam era. Last time this came up, I was just starting to paint models. Now, years later, I'm back at it again but learning with Vallejo paints this time. I've been looking at the nits and pieces of 1940s era film footage posted on YouTube, and still go back to the Delano shots over and over. But I recognize there are multiple factors that should influence how one reads those kinds of source. So wondering who has gone down that path before. I have a vague recollection of someone doing a clinic and would like to see if their observations line up with how I think I am interpreting the photo information. But my searches have failed to turn up anything more about that clinic or clinician. Rob
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HO steam and early diesel era freight cars for sale
I have three separate sale lists of steam and early diesel era HO scale freight cars that are for sale - Accurail, Kadee and Assorted. To receive the list or lists you want send an e-mail to me at: mguill1224 at aol dot com Offered by Hugh T Guillaume, 160 Parkledge Drive, Amherst NY 14226.
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Re: Boxcars
Richard Remiarz
Thank you everyone for all of the public and private positive comments on the two freights cars and the excess height Intermountain cars. I thought that more people were aware of the excess height on the Intermountain underframes. I have learned so much from
this group in the past. It is nice to have a chance and return the favor.
Sincerely,
Rich Remiarz
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of James E Kubanick <jekuban@...>
Sent: Monday, November 9, 2020 4:26 PM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Boxcars Rich,
Really impressive builds. Thank you for stating your techniques on building the cars.
Jim Kubanick.
Morgantown WV
On Monday, November 9, 2020, 4:31:07 PM EST, Richard Remiarz <rremiarz@...> wrote:
Rob,
You are correct, I only remove the square material where the trucks mount.
I have received other private emails asking about the height difference, and sent the following response:
I find the Intermountain cars to be 3-4” higher than other cars, as shown in these photos. In the first photo, the NYC car is a Branchline kit, and the CB&Q car is a stock Intermountain kit with the higher bolster, both cars 10’6” cars. In the second photo are an IMWX 10’ car and a stock Intermountain 10’ car.
Using #5 couplers I didn’t really notice a difference, but since I started using scale couplers and found that matching coupler heights was more critical, I also noticed the Intermountain cars would have couplers slightly higher than the coupler height gauge.
I first noticed this many years ago when I was building up a bunch of the Intermountain GN 40’ boxcars, and noticed they were taller than the other 10’ cars (IMWX) I had at the time. After measuring the various cars, I came to the conclusion that the Intermountain cars were too high, and that the bolster deign was the cause of the problem.
I can’t find the article right now, but I recently read an older article that described the history of the IMWX, Red Caboose, and Intermountain cars, and the article described the difference in underframes and heights.
Sincerely, Rich Remiarz Vadnais Heights, MN
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From:
Robert kirkham
I had no idea! Thanks for sharing this modification Rich. To clarify - the only modification is removing the square material on the bottom of the bolster where the trucks mount? The first photo has me wondering if you were removing material from the top (i.e. the part up against the car body) of the bolsters, cross members etc (which look a lot thicker on the IM than the IMWX cars), but I guess “no”.
Rob
On Nov 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, Richard Remiarz <rremiarz@...> wrote:
There have been a few requests for information on how I lower the bolsters on the Intermountain boxcars. Years ago I realized that Intermountain boxcars rode too high, especially noticeable when next to other boxcars, and the couplers were slightly on the high side. The first photo shows an IMWX/Red Caboose underframe on the left and Intermountain underframe on the right. You can see how much higher the bolster is on the Intermountain underframe. This makes the cars ride too high. The Intermountain coupler box has a much thicker cover than the IMWX/Red Caboose coupler box to bring the couplers back down with the raised bolster (IMWX/Red Caboose coupler cover on the left, Intermountain on the right.
The second photo shows the bolster after I have removed the entire raised portion. Usually I do this before attaching the underframe, but I have carefully cut it off on some preassembled cars. I then attach Kadee scale size couplers in a Kadee coupler box (old #5 coupler box in this case). The existing hole for the pin on the Intermountain coupler box cover is in the correct location for the Kadee coupler box. Then I fill in the space between the coupler box and the bolster with blocks of styrene.
As shown in the third photo, I use a Kadee red washer on the bolster. The red washers are 0.015” thick. In a couple of cases (where the bolsters were not cut down as far) the gray washer was sufficient (0.010”). The washer gives the truck a smooth surface to rotate on, and spaces the car correctly for the coupler height.
After attaching the trucks, I check to make sure the car sits level and the coupler heights. Sometimes I don’t cut down far enough on one side, and need to even up the bolster.
Sincerely, Rich Remiarz Vadnais Heights, MN
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: O Fenton Wells
Nice looking cars Rich. Can you go a bit more in-depth regarding the I’m cars and shaving off the bolster. How much do you remove?
<IM 1.jpg><IM 2.jpg><IM 3.jpg><IM 4.jpg>
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Re: Photographs in Digests
Vera Mills
Hello, Red-face department prevails. Back in April I asked about this problem and Allen Cain ( thanks Allen) kindly suggested a way to obtain all the photographs in a message but it did not work, probably because at the time I was dealing with old messages from last year. Then, after sending the below message, I remembered Allen's suggestion and voila, it worked. The solution to view more than two photographs in a message in a digest is to click on "View/Reply Online" at the bottom of that message then scroll to the bottom to find all the photographs. Thanks. Regards, Glen Mills
On Tue, 10 Nov 2020 at 09:51, Vera Mills <gleng20.mills@...> wrote:
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Re: Photo: Photo: NYC&HR Boxcar 100145
ROGER HINMAN
Looks like NYC Spec 460 was the one generated to capture this design for XMs, albeit a few years after the fact. It is shown as being used for the procurement of the Haskell and Barker Lot 5145 , procured under NYC Lots 354-B and 355-B in 1917. The sister XA spec 461 was used for numerous procurements.
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Roger Hinman.
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Re: B&O underframes
ROGER HINMAN
I have a copy of Standard Steel drawing 38048 (which is available at the IRM) for a 1916 order of M15 boxcars. I compared this with the drawing referenced in RWA. The underarms are very similar, but not identical. Truck Spacing and cross member spacings are different.
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Roger Hinman
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Re: Scalpels
Mac shp
A great video discussion on scalpel handles and blades usable for the hobby is found at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaX1Zx1JmAs
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Milw 16xxx
Robert kirkham
Taking this conversation a little more broadly, is there a good resource that breaks down the single sheathed MILW boxcar fleet - with spotting information?
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Rob
On Nov 6, 2020, at 6:32 AM, Donald B. Valentine via groups.io <riverman_vt@...> wrote: Paul Doggett wrote: “Don There were four photos two of each car.” Hi Paul. I wish that were so as I have only the two of the rib side car. Don’t know whether it is my half vast Internet service provider (Consolidated Communication which swallowed up Fairpoint after it bought out Verizon’s land lines in Maine, New Hampshire & Vermont) or what but Consolidated paid over $100k in fines to Vermont already this year over poor service issues and the service is still the pits. Perhaps someone can forward the two photos of the SS car to me separately. It is of interest because they were common in this area in the late 1940’s. Cordially Don Valentine
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Re: Accurail Milw 16xxx
Andy Laurent
On Tue, Nov 10, 2020 at 08:45 AM, Donald B. Valentine wrote:
All, If you see photos referenced in a message, but they are not attached (in Digest Mode), click the "View/Reply Online" link at the bottom of that message. That will take you to the Groups.io page, and that message specifically. Once there, scroll to the bottom of the page and click "View All XX Messages In Topic", which will show every message in that conversation, and all the associated attachments. You can scroll back up for the files you want to view. Cheers, Andy L. Wisconsin
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Photo: Lehigh Valley Gondola 32043
Photo: Lehigh Valley Gondola 32043 A photo from the National Archives of Canada: https://www.bac-lac.gc.ca/eng/CollectionSearch/Pages/record.aspx?app=FonAndCol&IdNumber=4026585 This photo can be enlarged quite a bit. Car Built 1941. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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