Date   

SOLD:

Jim Hayes
 

WESTERFIELD KIT 6001.


Re: [ResinFreightCarBuilders] Pacific Fruit Express Reefer 46701, PFE class R-40-20

Tony Thompson
 

Lester Breuer wrote:

I have upgraded Pacific Fruit Express (PFE), Refrigerator Car 46701 , PFE Class R-40-20 . . .  If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/


  Nice job, Lester, and nicely described as to the various steps in "correcting" the InterMountain foobie. They have released a single-herald R-40-23 a couple of times, and I guess I am done "alerting" them to the error. And of course I was delighted that you had consulted the PROPER prototype references <g>.
    Lester's work makes a nicer car than the R-40-20 that I kitbashed from an Athearn body I wrote a series of blog posts about that conversion and an accompanying R-40-14 project. I provide a link below to the final post in that series if you're interested.


Tony Thompson




Uploaded file on Lowering Intermountain boxcars

Richard Remiarz
 

My posts on lowering Intermountain boxcars generated a number comments.  Jim Brewer was kind enough to combine all of the emails into one document so that it could be posted in the files section.  I made a coupe of updates to the document and posted it in the files section.  It is titled Lowering Intermountain Truck Bolsters.

 

Sincerely,

Rich Remiarz

Vadnais Heights, MN

 

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


Re: Union Pacific Armour Yellow Paint

Tony Thompson
 

Something I've always wondered about...
Is it called Armour Yellow because it was the color Armour painted their reefers, back before there was a PFE?

      The 1920s UP color chip set shows both Armour Yellow and PFE yellow on it, though the two were similar.

Tony Thompson




File /Lowering Intermountain Truck Bolsters.doc uploaded #file-notice

main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Notification <noreply@...>
 

The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the main@RealSTMFC.groups.io group.

By: Richard Remiarz

Description:
Lowering bolsters on Intermountain boxcars


Re: Union Pacific Armour Yellow Paint

lrkdbn
 

Guess I should have read the link before running my mouth...
Larry King


Re: Union Pacific Armour Yellow Paint

lrkdbn
 

Something I've always wondered about...
Is it called Armour Yellow because it was the color Armour painted their reefers, back before there was a PFE?
Larry King


Re: Photo: ATSF Auto/Furniture Boxcar 65514 Fe-R (1934)

 

Large resolution file location (3598x2071) pixels: http://digital.denverlibrary.org/utils/ajaxhelper/?CISOROOT=p15330coll22&CISOPTR=55062&action=2&DMSCALE=100&DMWIDTH=7000&DMHEIGHT=600081

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Bob Chaparro via groups.io" <chiefbobbb@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 at 11:52 AM
To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Photo: ATSF Auto/Furniture Boxcar 65514 Fe-R (1934)

 

Photo: ATSF Auto/Furniture Boxcar 65514 Fe-R (1934)

A photo from the Denver Public Library:

https://digital.denverlibrary.org/digital/collection/p15330coll22/id/55062/rec/60

Click on the arrows in the upper right hand corner of the photo to enlarge it and scroll to enlarge it further.

Double sheathed, door-and-a-half design.

One of 500 cars (Series 65201-65700) ordered in 1926 from Pullman. There were other series of Fe-R cars as well.

Pullman applied lines above the reporting marks and below the car numbers, not a typical Santa Fe practice.

The Class Fe-R cars were rebuilt into steel sheathed Class Bx-40 boxcars during World War II. A total of 1,208 Fe-R cars in three groups were so converted.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: LV 9951 series, was: Photo: Reading Well Hole Flat Car 99009 (Undated)

Chuck Cover
 

Beautiful job on the kit.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM

 

_._,_._,_


Re: LV 9951 series, was: Photo: Reading Well Hole Flat Car 99009 (Undated)

O Fenton Wells
 

Great job on that kit.  Red Ball were not easy to get right.  I built the depressed center flatcar in highschool and used Walthers Goo as that was what the instructions suggested.  As a highschool student I was not proficient in Goo.
Fenton

On Tue, Nov 24, 2020 at 3:24 PM Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:
As stated earlier, here’s my photo of the HO Redball LV 56’ well-hole flat ...


I’ll make one correction to my earlier post … the deck is imbossed cardstock. As stated the ends and sides are set metal castings, the frame is wood, with blocks for the ends and stips for the sides. The trucks are pasenger trucks fitted with smaller 33” wheelsets. Detailing is basic, as I had no better info at the time. The load is also Redball, a new crane bridge. I built this car perhaps 40 years ago, and it’s seen a lot of service.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 20, 2020, at 11:38 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:

Mine, built from a quite old kit (ca. 1960), has wooden blocks for the end platforms, and soft metal overlays for the top decks, sides, and ends. NO trucks came with it. I used modified 3-axle passenger trucks. I’ll try to post a photo of the model soon.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 20, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Jon Miller <atsfus@...> wrote:

On 11/20/2020 6:57 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell wrote:
Redball used to offer a wood & metal kit of this car in HO scale. I have one. It’s a bit crude by modern standards, but with a little work makes an unusual and quite presentable model.

Dan Mitchell

    I have one of these.  I believe the sides are card-stock.  The wheels in the RB trucks are 28".

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS




--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: LV 9951 series, was: Photo: Reading Well Hole Flat Car 99009 (Undated)

Daniel A. Mitchell
 

As stated earlier, here’s my photo of the HO Redball LV 56’ well-hole flat ...


I’ll make one correction to my earlier post … the deck is imbossed cardstock. As stated the ends and sides are set metal castings, the frame is wood, with blocks for the ends and stips for the sides. The trucks are pasenger trucks fitted with smaller 33” wheelsets. Detailing is basic, as I had no better info at the time. The load is also Redball, a new crane bridge. I built this car perhaps 40 years ago, and it’s seen a lot of service.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 20, 2020, at 11:38 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:

Mine, built from a quite old kit (ca. 1960), has wooden blocks for the end platforms, and soft metal overlays for the top decks, sides, and ends. NO trucks came with it. I used modified 3-axle passenger trucks. I’ll try to post a photo of the model soon.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 20, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Jon Miller <atsfus@...> wrote:

On 11/20/2020 6:57 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell wrote:
Redball used to offer a wood & metal kit of this car in HO scale. I have one. It’s a bit crude by modern standards, but with a little work makes an unusual and quite presentable model.

Dan Mitchell

    I have one of these.  I believe the sides are card-stock.  The wheels in the RB trucks are 28".

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS



Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Tony Thompson
 

Garth Groff wrote:

I'll probably hate myself in the morning for suggesting this. I really enjoy rescuing those old metal tanks, and have saved several. They were in some ways more accurate models than their plastic replacements of the 1960s from Varney, LifeLike, Walthers, and yes, Athearn.

Having done some of those same restorations myself, Garth, I entirely agree with you.

Tony Thompson




Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Bruce Smith
 

Bob,

Excellent point, however, the PRR’s Atglen and Susquehanna (A&S) and Columbia and Port Deposit (C&PD) branches, which I model, have the odd problem of being wilderness lines for much of their length, often with highly restricted access to the ROWs, and so much of the wreck cleanup that I have seen has involved shipping for scrapping. But now, you have me pondering, since I am not modeling the actual wreck, but rather the results, if a gondola full of what appear to be cut up tank car pieces wouldn’t be more appropriate…

Regards,
Bruce

On Nov 24, 2020, at 1:44 PM, Robert Heninger <gn2059@...> wrote:

Bruce, 

I would think a tank car with much more damage than that would be scrapped on site, and would not be economically or even feasibly repairable, even given your mid-1944 timeframe. But I could be wrong. What (prototype) damaged tank car bodies I have seen as loads looked almost intact, as I recall.

Regards,
Bob Heninger 
Minot, ND


Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Garth Groff and Sally Sanford <mallardlodge1000@...>
 

Bruce,

An idea for you. When we have train shows again, look for an old Athearn/Globe, Thomas or Mantua steel-bodied tank. Or if you're really flush with cash, find a beat-up brass model. Then put some realistic dings into it with a tack hammer. As a bonus, you will get an underframe that probably isn't worth saving (especially the Mantua one-piece zamak casting made to fit only their weird hook-and-loop couplers). It might make a good gondola load.

I'll probably hate myself in the morning for suggesting this. I really enjoy rescuing those old metal tanks, and have saved several. They were in some ways more accurate models than their plastic replacements of the 1960s from Varney, LifeLike, Walthers, and yes, Athearn.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🦆



On Tue, Nov 24, 2020 at 2:28 PM Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
Folks,

Many years ago, I used a “wrecked” AC&F type 27 (IM) as a load on my Sunshine F30A. I have never been happy with that load because I wanted to portray a wrecked, burnt out tank car headed for scrap, and the soldering iron gouges just never look right. In addition, the all over rust isn’t realistic, and I’ve learned a LOT more about rusty weathering. 

Watching artistry by others with respect to wrecked cars using aluminum sheet had me thinking that I would replace part of the tank with aluminum to show the tearing rupture of the tank… but again, I worry that the rest of the tank should be deformed as well. So, the replacement of parts of the car with aluminum sheet (pie plate?) might also lend it to being crumpled, albeit from collision forces, instead of vacuum.

Regards,
Bruce 
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL



On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

Ray Hutchison wrote:

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 

  It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --

Tony Thompson





Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Robert Heninger
 

Bruce, 

I would think a tank car with much more damage than that would be scrapped on site, and would not be economically or even feasibly repairable, even given your mid-1944 timeframe. But I could be wrong. What (prototype) damaged tank car bodies I have seen as loads looked almost intact, as I recall.

Regards,
Bob Heninger 
Minot, ND


Re: HO Tank Car Lid

O Fenton Wells
 

Looks pretty good to me Bruce
Fenton

On Tue, Nov 24, 2020 at 2:28 PM Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
Folks,

Many years ago, I used a “wrecked” AC&F type 27 (IM) as a load on my Sunshine F30A. I have never been happy with that load because I wanted to portray a wrecked, burnt out tank car headed for scrap, and the soldering iron gouges just never look right. In addition, the all over rust isn’t realistic, and I’ve learned a LOT more about rusty weathering. 

Watching artistry by others with respect to wrecked cars using aluminum sheet had me thinking that I would replace part of the tank with aluminum to show the tearing rupture of the tank… but again, I worry that the rest of the tank should be deformed as well. So, the replacement of parts of the car with aluminum sheet (pie plate?) might also lend it to being crumpled, albeit from collision forces, instead of vacuum.

Regards,
Bruce 
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL



On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

Ray Hutchison wrote:

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 

  It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --

Tony Thompson






--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

Many years ago, I used a “wrecked” AC&F type 27 (IM) as a load on my Sunshine F30A. I have never been happy with that load because I wanted to portray a wrecked, burnt out tank car headed for scrap, and the soldering iron gouges just never look right. In addition, the all over rust isn’t realistic, and I’ve learned a LOT more about rusty weathering. 

Watching artistry by others with respect to wrecked cars using aluminum sheet had me thinking that I would replace part of the tank with aluminum to show the tearing rupture of the tank… but again, I worry that the rest of the tank should be deformed as well. So, the replacement of parts of the car with aluminum sheet (pie plate?) might also lend it to being crumpled, albeit from collision forces, instead of vacuum.

Regards,
Bruce 
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL



On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

Ray Hutchison wrote:

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 

  It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --

Tony Thompson





Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Tony Thompson
 

Robert Bond wrote:

I grabbed the rod, and some .10 white plastic, and went to the kitchen. I cut a couple strips of the plastic, and fired up the oven. I placed the plastic on the rod, and let soften slowly, and once I found the right oven, (170 degs at about 10 minuntes) I was able to get a reasonably usable window insert . . .

There's your tank car collapse.

Tony Thompson




Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Tony Thompson
 

Ray Hutchison wrote:

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 

  It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --

Tony Thompson




Photo: ATSF Auto/Furniture Boxcar 65514 Fe-R (1934)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: ATSF Auto/Furniture Boxcar 65514 Fe-R (1934)

A photo from the Denver Public Library:

https://digital.denverlibrary.org/digital/collection/p15330coll22/id/55062/rec/60

Click on the arrows in the upper right hand corner of the photo to enlarge it and scroll to enlarge it further.

Double sheathed, door-and-a-half design.

One of 500 cars (Series 65201-65700) ordered in 1926 from Pullman. There were other series of Fe-R cars as well.

Pullman applied lines above the reporting marks and below the car numbers, not a typical Santa Fe practice.

The Class Fe-R cars were rebuilt into steel sheathed Class Bx-40 boxcars during World War II. A total of 1,208 Fe-R cars in three groups were so converted.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

7881 - 7900 of 187390