Date   

Re: LV 9951 series, was: Photo: Reading Well Hole Flat Car 99009 (Undated)

O Fenton Wells
 

Great job on that kit.  Red Ball were not easy to get right.  I built the depressed center flatcar in highschool and used Walthers Goo as that was what the instructions suggested.  As a highschool student I was not proficient in Goo.
Fenton

On Tue, Nov 24, 2020 at 3:24 PM Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:
As stated earlier, here’s my photo of the HO Redball LV 56’ well-hole flat ...


I’ll make one correction to my earlier post … the deck is imbossed cardstock. As stated the ends and sides are set metal castings, the frame is wood, with blocks for the ends and stips for the sides. The trucks are pasenger trucks fitted with smaller 33” wheelsets. Detailing is basic, as I had no better info at the time. The load is also Redball, a new crane bridge. I built this car perhaps 40 years ago, and it’s seen a lot of service.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 20, 2020, at 11:38 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:

Mine, built from a quite old kit (ca. 1960), has wooden blocks for the end platforms, and soft metal overlays for the top decks, sides, and ends. NO trucks came with it. I used modified 3-axle passenger trucks. I’ll try to post a photo of the model soon.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 20, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Jon Miller <atsfus@...> wrote:

On 11/20/2020 6:57 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell wrote:
Redball used to offer a wood & metal kit of this car in HO scale. I have one. It’s a bit crude by modern standards, but with a little work makes an unusual and quite presentable model.

Dan Mitchell

    I have one of these.  I believe the sides are card-stock.  The wheels in the RB trucks are 28".

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS




--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: LV 9951 series, was: Photo: Reading Well Hole Flat Car 99009 (Undated)

Daniel A. Mitchell
 

As stated earlier, here’s my photo of the HO Redball LV 56’ well-hole flat ...


I’ll make one correction to my earlier post … the deck is imbossed cardstock. As stated the ends and sides are set metal castings, the frame is wood, with blocks for the ends and stips for the sides. The trucks are pasenger trucks fitted with smaller 33” wheelsets. Detailing is basic, as I had no better info at the time. The load is also Redball, a new crane bridge. I built this car perhaps 40 years ago, and it’s seen a lot of service.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 20, 2020, at 11:38 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:

Mine, built from a quite old kit (ca. 1960), has wooden blocks for the end platforms, and soft metal overlays for the top decks, sides, and ends. NO trucks came with it. I used modified 3-axle passenger trucks. I’ll try to post a photo of the model soon.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 20, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Jon Miller <atsfus@...> wrote:

On 11/20/2020 6:57 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell wrote:
Redball used to offer a wood & metal kit of this car in HO scale. I have one. It’s a bit crude by modern standards, but with a little work makes an unusual and quite presentable model.

Dan Mitchell

    I have one of these.  I believe the sides are card-stock.  The wheels in the RB trucks are 28".

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS



Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Tony Thompson
 

Garth Groff wrote:

I'll probably hate myself in the morning for suggesting this. I really enjoy rescuing those old metal tanks, and have saved several. They were in some ways more accurate models than their plastic replacements of the 1960s from Varney, LifeLike, Walthers, and yes, Athearn.

Having done some of those same restorations myself, Garth, I entirely agree with you.

Tony Thompson




Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Bruce Smith
 

Bob,

Excellent point, however, the PRR’s Atglen and Susquehanna (A&S) and Columbia and Port Deposit (C&PD) branches, which I model, have the odd problem of being wilderness lines for much of their length, often with highly restricted access to the ROWs, and so much of the wreck cleanup that I have seen has involved shipping for scrapping. But now, you have me pondering, since I am not modeling the actual wreck, but rather the results, if a gondola full of what appear to be cut up tank car pieces wouldn’t be more appropriate…

Regards,
Bruce

On Nov 24, 2020, at 1:44 PM, Robert Heninger <gn2059@...> wrote:

Bruce, 

I would think a tank car with much more damage than that would be scrapped on site, and would not be economically or even feasibly repairable, even given your mid-1944 timeframe. But I could be wrong. What (prototype) damaged tank car bodies I have seen as loads looked almost intact, as I recall.

Regards,
Bob Heninger 
Minot, ND


Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Garth Groff and Sally Sanford <mallardlodge1000@...>
 

Bruce,

An idea for you. When we have train shows again, look for an old Athearn/Globe, Thomas or Mantua steel-bodied tank. Or if you're really flush with cash, find a beat-up brass model. Then put some realistic dings into it with a tack hammer. As a bonus, you will get an underframe that probably isn't worth saving (especially the Mantua one-piece zamak casting made to fit only their weird hook-and-loop couplers). It might make a good gondola load.

I'll probably hate myself in the morning for suggesting this. I really enjoy rescuing those old metal tanks, and have saved several. They were in some ways more accurate models than their plastic replacements of the 1960s from Varney, LifeLike, Walthers, and yes, Athearn.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🦆



On Tue, Nov 24, 2020 at 2:28 PM Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
Folks,

Many years ago, I used a “wrecked” AC&F type 27 (IM) as a load on my Sunshine F30A. I have never been happy with that load because I wanted to portray a wrecked, burnt out tank car headed for scrap, and the soldering iron gouges just never look right. In addition, the all over rust isn’t realistic, and I’ve learned a LOT more about rusty weathering. 

Watching artistry by others with respect to wrecked cars using aluminum sheet had me thinking that I would replace part of the tank with aluminum to show the tearing rupture of the tank… but again, I worry that the rest of the tank should be deformed as well. So, the replacement of parts of the car with aluminum sheet (pie plate?) might also lend it to being crumpled, albeit from collision forces, instead of vacuum.

Regards,
Bruce 
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL



On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

Ray Hutchison wrote:

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 

  It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --

Tony Thompson





Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Robert Heninger
 

Bruce, 

I would think a tank car with much more damage than that would be scrapped on site, and would not be economically or even feasibly repairable, even given your mid-1944 timeframe. But I could be wrong. What (prototype) damaged tank car bodies I have seen as loads looked almost intact, as I recall.

Regards,
Bob Heninger 
Minot, ND


Re: HO Tank Car Lid

O Fenton Wells
 

Looks pretty good to me Bruce
Fenton

On Tue, Nov 24, 2020 at 2:28 PM Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
Folks,

Many years ago, I used a “wrecked” AC&F type 27 (IM) as a load on my Sunshine F30A. I have never been happy with that load because I wanted to portray a wrecked, burnt out tank car headed for scrap, and the soldering iron gouges just never look right. In addition, the all over rust isn’t realistic, and I’ve learned a LOT more about rusty weathering. 

Watching artistry by others with respect to wrecked cars using aluminum sheet had me thinking that I would replace part of the tank with aluminum to show the tearing rupture of the tank… but again, I worry that the rest of the tank should be deformed as well. So, the replacement of parts of the car with aluminum sheet (pie plate?) might also lend it to being crumpled, albeit from collision forces, instead of vacuum.

Regards,
Bruce 
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL



On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

Ray Hutchison wrote:

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 

  It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --

Tony Thompson






--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

Many years ago, I used a “wrecked” AC&F type 27 (IM) as a load on my Sunshine F30A. I have never been happy with that load because I wanted to portray a wrecked, burnt out tank car headed for scrap, and the soldering iron gouges just never look right. In addition, the all over rust isn’t realistic, and I’ve learned a LOT more about rusty weathering. 

Watching artistry by others with respect to wrecked cars using aluminum sheet had me thinking that I would replace part of the tank with aluminum to show the tearing rupture of the tank… but again, I worry that the rest of the tank should be deformed as well. So, the replacement of parts of the car with aluminum sheet (pie plate?) might also lend it to being crumpled, albeit from collision forces, instead of vacuum.

Regards,
Bruce 
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL



On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

Ray Hutchison wrote:

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 

  It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --

Tony Thompson





Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Tony Thompson
 

Robert Bond wrote:

I grabbed the rod, and some .10 white plastic, and went to the kitchen. I cut a couple strips of the plastic, and fired up the oven. I placed the plastic on the rod, and let soften slowly, and once I found the right oven, (170 degs at about 10 minuntes) I was able to get a reasonably usable window insert . . .

There's your tank car collapse.

Tony Thompson




Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Tony Thompson
 

Ray Hutchison wrote:

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 

  It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --

Tony Thompson




Photo: ATSF Auto/Furniture Boxcar 65514 Fe-R (1934)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: ATSF Auto/Furniture Boxcar 65514 Fe-R (1934)

A photo from the Denver Public Library:

https://digital.denverlibrary.org/digital/collection/p15330coll22/id/55062/rec/60

Click on the arrows in the upper right hand corner of the photo to enlarge it and scroll to enlarge it further.

Double sheathed, door-and-a-half design.

One of 500 cars (Series 65201-65700) ordered in 1926 from Pullman. There were other series of Fe-R cars as well.

Pullman applied lines above the reporting marks and below the car numbers, not a typical Santa Fe practice.

The Class Fe-R cars were rebuilt into steel sheathed Class Bx-40 boxcars during World War II. A total of 1,208 Fe-R cars in three groups were so converted.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Union Pacific Armour Yellow Paint

Bob Chaparro
 

Union Pacific Armour Yellow Paint

Courtesy of Dave Husman, this is a link to a monograph of Union Pacific Armour Yellow Paint on the UtahRails.net website:

https://utahrails.net/up/armour-yellow.php

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Ray Hutchison
 

Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy! 
rh


Re: K4 Decals

O Fenton Wells
 

Chuck, Ted Culotta did this car with a kitbash in his latest PRM. It’s worth a read if you haven’t seen it
Fenton 


On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:45 AM, Chuck Cover <chuck.cover@...> wrote:



Thanks Paul,

 

I had been looking for this 36’ boxcar kit for a long time.  For weathering I use mostly artist acrylic paints in thin washes which makes it easier to control the amount of tint that is applied over the base freight car color.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Doggett via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 3:29 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] K4 Decals

 

Chuck 

 

That’s a really nice model I like the weathering and reverse Hutchins ends.

 

Paul Doggett.   England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 


Re: K4 Decals

Chuck Cover
 

Thanks Paul,

 

I had been looking for this 36’ boxcar kit for a long time.  For weathering I use mostly artist acrylic paints in thin washes which makes it easier to control the amount of tint that is applied over the base freight car color.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Doggett via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 3:29 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] K4 Decals

 

Chuck 

 

That’s a really nice model I like the weathering and reverse Hutchins ends.

 

Paul Doggett.   England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 


Pacific Fruit Express Reefer 46701, PFE class R-40-20

Lester Breuer
 

I have upgraded Pacific Fruit Express (PFE), Refrigerator Car 46701 , PFE Class R-40-20.  If you are interested in the upgrade of this reefer including changes, addition of resin ends and of parts not in the kit and additional lettering including new UP herald.  Photos and writeup of the upgrade process including painting, lettering and weathering are now available on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:

 

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/

 

 

Lester Breuer

 


Hindsight 20/20 5.0 registration open

Eric Hansmann
 

The next Hindsight 20/20 virtual RPM is set for December 5th. Registration is open now on the Speedwitch Media website. The presentation schedule has also been posted.

http://speedwitchmedia.com/product/hindsight-20-20-5-0-registration/

 

There is no charge for the event, but registration is required to attend. Donations to help defray the event costs can be made via a PayPal tip jar. Info is noted on that web page.

 

Share this message to spread the word.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN


Re: HO Tank Car Lid

Daniel A. Mitchell
 

Absolutely correct! Having worked on high vacuum systems I can attest to the difficulty in getting even CLOSE to a perfect vacuum (zero psi). Atmospheric pressure is usually stated as 14.7 psi (plus or minus a little due to weather). When pulling a vacuum the first 14 pounds are easy, and can be achieved with a "roughing pump” (often a sort-of an air compressor running backwards). Things like the aforementioned vacuum-trucks move a lot of air to rapidly evacuate large volumes (like a sewer), but do NOT actually pull a very high vacuum at all. Volume and pressure are NOT equivalent!

After that first 14 psi it gets VERY difficult. Elaborate machines struggle to get ever closer to the never-attained total vacuum. Drag pumps, diffusion pumps (oil or mercury), turbo pumps, cryo-pumps, ion-pumps, cold-fingers, etc. all try to get just a LITTLE closer by extracting the last few molecules of gasses from the vacuum chamber. The vacuum chamber itself (and any attached plumbing) can be baked to drive air out of the metal itself. Metals are porous. The pumps struggle against the inevitable small leaks. They may run for hours, or days, to get as low a pressure as possible … but they NEVER reach a total vacuum. Even outer space is not a total vacuum. It’s a goal that’s never quite attained.

The elusive 14.7 psi (approx.) vacuum is the best you can ever hope for, and you’ll never quite get even that.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Nov 24, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Jack Mullen <jack.f.mullen@...> wrote:

On Mon, Nov 23, 2020 at 02:47 PM, Tony Thompson wrote:
They pulled a higher vacuum with a vacuum truck. Those are usually used for sucking out clogged sewer pipes and the like and obviously exceed “full” vacuum (14.5 psig). I don’t know HOW it works, tho.
I hope this is meant as a joke that's too subtle for me to get. There isn't any vacuum that exceeds full vacuum, which is 0 psia. No matter how you pump, you don't get less than nothing, because you can't remove more than everything.

Jack Mullen


Re: Photo: Rock Island Boxcar 22335 (1952)

Tim O'Connor
 


They all had that interesting stencil Tony... Another thing - the cars built in January 1952 (instead of December 1951)
had a change in the builder's stencil! :-)



On 11/23/2020 2:14 PM, Tony Thompson wrote:
Bob Chaparro wrote:

Photo: Rock Island Boxcar 22335 (1952)
A photo from the Denver Public Library:
Click on the arrows in the upper right hand corner of the photo to enlarge it and scroll to enlarge it further.
Built 1951 by Pullman-Standard.
Note "New Roof" stencil at upper right hand corner.

    As this is a PS-1 still displaying its "NEW" stencil, surely  the "New Roof" notation must refer to the original roof??

Tony Thompson


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: K4 Decals

Bill McClure
 

Lovely model, Chuck.

Bill

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