Date   

Re: Photo: B&O and New Haven Boxcars

Eric Hansmann
 

You don’t see many B&O M-12 class boxcars in old photos. They were built in 1902 and one of the minor classes. 

B&O updated the design for the M-13 class. 


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Mar 25, 2021, at 4:44 PM, Chris Barkan <cplbarkan@...> wrote:

With both NH and B&O boxcars I had to like this one :-)  I improved the resolution and contrast, and cleaned up some of the dust specs etc. in the attached image.
--
Chris Barkan
Champaign, IL
<M_O, B_O 165432 _ NH 76987 boxcars Boston, MA _Boston Public Library, Boston Wharf Company Collection_-PS.jpg>


Re: Vallejo paint

Lester Breuer
 

Clark never mix in the paint cup as paint goes around needle and that does not mix well with paint and thinner added above.  Always mix in another container - I use a large measuring spoon.  There are two Vallejo paint  types: Model Air ready for spraying which I find rare ( I have spayed only a few times with paint directly from the bottle) and Model Color for brushing that always must be thinned.  Before any thinning I remove eye dropper bottle top which does come out of bottle and stir paint inside bottle and reinsert eyedropper top.   thinning:  I mix all paint for the airbrush in a large measuring spoon.  Normally 30 to 40 drops of paint.  The beauty of the eye drop top.  Thinner: Model Air due to bottle sitting on shelf for a period of time may need to be thinned when opened so start with maybe 10 drops of thinner and work up 5 drops at a time. You should have a milk viscosity for spraying.  I use a piece of rail to stir the paint and thinner in the measuring spoon.  If I turn the rail after stirring vertical and the paint on the rail forms a drop and drips off paint is ready.  For Model Color I start with the same number of 30 to 40 drops of paint.  I start with half the number of drops, 15 or 20 of thinner and work up - again five drops at a time.  Again, when drop falls off rail used for mixing thinned paint ready for spraying.  On Model Color at times I will need and work up to the same amount of drops, 30 to 40 to get viscosity of thinner and paint correct.  Sounds like a lot of tedious time spent mixing; however, soon second nature and you will be able to mix at light speed as you building speed.

And, one key to Vallejo paint and thinner spray mix is needle size and air pressure.  The larger the needle size the better and air pressure 24 lbs or lower.  BTW when I started with water base paint I started with the Paasche H.   Now Passache Talon with #3 needle or Badger Patriot which has only one needle size.

Lester Breuer


Re: Photo: B&O and New Haven Boxcars

Chris Barkan
 

With both NH and B&O boxcars I had to like this one :-)  I improved the resolution and contrast, and cleaned up some of the dust specs etc. in the attached image.
--
Chris Barkan
Champaign, IL


Re: Photo: B&O and New Haven Boxcars

Chris Barkan
 


--
Chris Barkan
Champaign, IL


Re: Photo: Coast Guard Boats In Gondolas

lrkdbn
 

When I opened this it came up titled "leaving for 1937 flood zone"
Note the archbar trucks still on the PRR gon
Larry King

 

 


Re: Photo: Grand Trunk Boxcar 15233

ROGER HINMAN
 

Anyone want to guess on the reporting marks of the reefer in back of the GT car??? My poor eyesight guesses the last letter is D which could possible be SFRD

On Mar 25, 2021, at 2:23 PM, Bob Chaparro via groups.io <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Photo: Grand Trunk Boxcar 15233
A phot from the Digital Commonwealth website:
Click on the photo and scroll to enlarge the photo.
Undated.
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Re: Photo: NYC railroad yard early 1900s

ROGER HINMAN
 

The title on the photo is a bit confusing; my guess is its a PRR yard shot, the postal cars do not appear to be NYC&HR and the fact that the Manhattan skyline is across the river makes it possibly a Long island RR yard (PRR sub)

Roger Hinman


Re: partial view of an SRLX reefer on the TRRA in 1939

ROGER HINMAN
 

Reporting marks are SLRX on this car; certainly doesn’t look like a Swift car

Roger Hinman

On Mar 25, 2021, at 4:19 PM, Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;) <claus@...> wrote:

Hi List Members,
 
A partial view of an SRLX reefer on the TRRA in 1939
 
 
More info at the link below...
 
 
Enjoy!
 
Claus Schlund


partial view of an SRLX reefer on the TRRA in 1939

Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;)
 

Hi List Members,
 
A partial view of an SRLX reefer on the TRRA in 1939
 
 
More info at the link below...
 
 
Enjoy!
 
Claus Schlund


Photo: NYC railroad yard early 1900s

john oseida
 


Re: Photo: Grand Trunk Boxcar 15233

Ian Cranstone
 

Neat photo. Built by Rhodes Curry of Amherst, Nova Scotia in July 1906, this car would be assigned to be CN 336401 following the Grand Trunk’s absorption into Canadian National in 1923.

Ian Cranstone

Osgoode, Ontario, Canada

lamontc@...

http://freightcars.nakina.net


Re: Photo: B&O and New Haven Boxcars

Tony Thompson
 

Bob Chaparro wrote:

Photo: B&O and New Haven Boxcars
A phot from the Digital Commonwealth website:
Click on the photo and scroll to enlarge the photo.

Too bad we don't see more of the M&O box car at the left, with its "North & South Dispatch" emblem.

Tony Thompson




Photo: Grand Trunk Boxcar 15233

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: Grand Trunk Boxcar 15233

A phot from the Digital Commonwealth website:

https://www.digitalcommonwealth.org/search/commonwealth:br86bb23m

Click on the photo and scroll to enlarge the photo.

Undated.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Photo: B&O and New Haven Boxcars

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: B&O and New Haven Boxcars

A phot from the Digital Commonwealth website:

https://www.digitalcommonwealth.org/search/commonwealth:br86bc07f

Click on the photo and scroll to enlarge the photo.

Undated.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Photo: Coast Guard Boats In Gondolas

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: Coast Guard Boats In Gondolas

A phot from the Digital Commonwealth website:

https://www.digitalcommonwealth.org/search/commonwealth:q524m080v

Click on the photo and scroll to enlarge the photo.

Undated. First two gondolas are PRR and CNJ.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


REDEMPTION

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

 Yeah!  Now I can justify my NKP hopper on the SP.  If only I could do that for the Pennsy gondola.

Bill Pardie

BillNow if I could just do that for the ._,_WHIL


Re: Vallejo paint

Dave Parker
 

In my experience, the Model Color works just fine when appropriately thinned (and mixed).  I do use the Flow Improver, but I can't swear that it makes a big difference.  As per the late Bill Welch, you want a big needle for acrylics (0.5 mm or larger), and a modest air pressure of 20 psi or less.

The Model Air paints are ready to spray out of the bottle, but I still add a few drops of the Improver.

I like and use the Vallejo paints quite a bit, but feel that they are a tad short of the mark when it comes to replicating Pollyscale.  YMMV of course.
--
Dave Parker
Swall Meadows, CA


Re: Vallejo paint

Douglas Harding
 

Clark, Vallejo makes two versions of their acrylic paint. One called Model Color is for brush-on application. The other is called Model Air and is thinned for airbrushing. According to their website they are formulated differently.

 

I have only found Model Color in individual bottles at Hobby Lobby. I really liked how it flowed and covered using a brush, but it is way too thick for airbrushing. The last time I checked Hobby Lobby did have Model Air, but only in a package of 8 colors for airplanes, which I did not want. I believe the thinner is design for use with Model Air.

 

I suspect you got a bottle of Model Color for brush-on application.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Clark Propst
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 10:07 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Vallejo paint

 

I know a lot of guys like the Vallejo brand paint. I bought my first vial, tube, whatever they’re called of Vallejo paint at Hobby Lobby alone with a thingy of thinner. I attached the cup to my trusty old Paasche H and dribbled in some paint, then dribbled in some thinner and stirred, not shaken. The stuff came out onto my test piece is blobs, not well mixed. It did dry fairly smooth.

Questions: How should I’ve mixed the stuff? What do you do with the leftovers?

Luckily I didn't like the color for my project, so I don't have to mess with the stuff...till next time....

 Clark Propst


Re: Vallejo paint

Dennis Korn
 

Clark,

If you are using Vallejo Air (designed for airbrushing) then I would recommend the following:

1. Put a stainless steel nut (make sure of quality because some stainless with rust) into the bottle to help shake up the contents.
2. Put some paint into your color cup (you should really mix it in a separate shot glass, but most of us don't bother) and add some Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver (this is a type of retarder specifically for Vallejo).
3. Then play around on a plastic sheet with air pressure until you get the right pattern.

Note: I have a separate airbrush for Acrylics and Lacquers. If you get any lacquer thinner mixed into the Vallejo (even left over around the needle) it will turn to a gel and screw up paint flow with bad results.

Take care,

Dennis Korn

On Thursday, March 25, 2021, 11:07:00 AM EDT, Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote:


I know a lot of guys like the Vallejo brand paint. I bought my first vial, tube, whatever they’re called of Vallejo paint at Hobby Lobby alone with a thingy of thinner. I attached the cup to my trusty old Paasche H and dribbled in some paint, then dribbled in some thinner and stirred, not shaken. The stuff came out onto my test piece is blobs, not well mixed. It did dry fairly smooth.
Questions: How should I’ve mixed the stuff? What do you do with the leftovers?

Luckily I didn't like the color for my project, so I don't have to mess with the stuff...till next time....
 Clark Propst


Vallejo paint

Clark Propst
 

I know a lot of guys like the Vallejo brand paint. I bought my first vial, tube, whatever they’re called of Vallejo paint at Hobby Lobby alone with a thingy of thinner. I attached the cup to my trusty old Paasche H and dribbled in some paint, then dribbled in some thinner and stirred, not shaken. The stuff came out onto my test piece is blobs, not well mixed. It did dry fairly smooth.
Questions: How should I’ve mixed the stuff? What do you do with the leftovers?

Luckily I didn't like the color for my project, so I don't have to mess with the stuff...till next time....
 Clark Propst

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