Date   

Re: Journal Oil Modeling - was "Resemble Grease"

 

An interesting story I heard from a railroader was regarding the “brake smoke” that was generated when descending a long grade. I assumed this was some mix of ballast dust and brake shoe dust. The railroader said it was burning oil - all that oily gunk on the wheel faces would cook off as the wheels got hot - followed by the gunk spalling off the wheel face. The latter explains the flaking look I’ve seen in person and in photos. 

He said it smelled terrible.

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio, US

On May 16, 2021, at 8:35 AM, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


It's not the OIL so much as the dirt that sticks to the oil. In many photos from more arid
areas of the United States, the wheel faces were often a tan or reddish color from sand and
fine local dirt colors. I have observed up close almost an inch of crud accumulated on the
face of a wheel. If all of your wheel faces are the same color it's no different than all of your
cars having the same weathering.

Tim O'Connor


On 5/15/2021 11:07 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:
There's an exception to most definitive statements, and I ran across this one while looking at MDT reefers. The wheel faces appear black to a very dark bluish gray, more like a oily black. I concede that they may not be true black, but they're more black than gray.

Attachments:



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Photo: NYC Boxcar 110000 That Wandered Away (1954)

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Ideal for modeling!  Side and B end in the same photo!

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 1:50 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Photo: NYC Boxcar 110000 That Wandered Away (1954)

 

Photo: NYC Boxcar 110000 That Wandered Away (1954)

A photo from the Temple University Archives:

https://digital.library.temple.edu/digital/collection/p15037coll3/id/44172/rec/8

Click on the arrows and scroll to enlarge.

Small mishap.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Dennis Storzek
 

I'm not sure JB Weld is what Nelson wants to use on a vertical joint on the backdrop, in my experience it tends to run or slump. I would go with one of the two part polyester auto body fillers; Bondo is one name but there are others. Two part fillers have minimal shrinkage, whereas the single component "spot putty" will shrink as the solvent evaporates.  The two part fillers may be a bit tough to sand when used on styrene, since they are as hard or harder. In which case, use the two part filler to fill the depression, and the knife a thin coat of the spot putty (also known as glazing putty) over the top and sand that smooth.

Dennis Storzek


A set of C&O hoppers (undated)...

David
 

Two more 1905CD hoppers. Differences include the trucks, and arrangement and number of grab irons on the right side.

David Thompson


C&O 21920 twin hopper

David
 

This is among the earliest examples of the 1905 Common Design hopper, built in probably June 1906.

David Thompson


partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

David
 

This is Virginian class H-4 in its original configuration of three pairs of clamshell doors with a side skirt. These cars were later rebuilt as conventional twin hoppers.

David Thompson


Re: NYC 499680 flat and other flat cars at Joy Manufacturing Co (undated)

Clarence Zink
 

It is now simply known as "Joy", a part of the Komatsu America line of mining equipment.  Joy absorbed P&H Mining Equipment via the P&H bankruptcy sometime in the 2013 - 2015 era, and became "Joy Global", but then got bought by Komatsu in 2018.  Milwaukee is the HQ for Komatsu America.

There are still plenty of "Joy" facilities around.  Here are a few associated with the Appalachia coal fields:

The machines on the flatcars at that plant appear to be "face loaders" (on the front two flatcars) and "shuttle cars" (on the back four(?) flat cars against the building).  It appears there is a separate 'mine truck' type vehicle on the ground between the building and the track with the shuttle cars, or maybe there is an additional track there.

The loaders have a pan type "apron" that is driven into the broken coal at a working face, and two gathering arms that pull the coal into the center of the pan/apron.  A conveyor then takes the coal up and over the machine, and dumps it into a waiting "shuttle car".

The "shuttle car" then transports the broken coal to a large storage bin, where it is unloaded, and subsequently loaded into a mine train for hauling out to the surface, or the bin might be connected to a shaft, where the coal is hoisted to the surface.  The shuttle cars simply "shuttle" back and forth from the face to the bin.  They have a small conveyor in their bottom to move the coal out of their bed hopper.  Shuttle cars do not 'dump' in the conventional sense of tipping at an angle to let material slide out the back.

The stuff on the flatcars is very similar to the modern underground machines.  Here is a link:
https://mining.komatsu/underground-mining/room-pillar-entry-development

CRZ


Hygrade ~1600 series

nyc3001 .
 

Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Jeffrey White
 

I've had good luck using JB Weld steel filled epoxy.  I imagine it's pretty similar to bondo (which I haven't messed with since I was a teenager working on cars).

Jeff White

Alma IL

On 5/17/2021 10:26 AM, O Fenton Wells wrote:
I use a Bondo auto putty from WalMart.  I know all the purists will poo poo this but it works for me and it lasts a long time.
Just say'in
Fenton

On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 11:14 AM Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;) <claus@...> wrote:
Hi List Members,
 
It has been a few years since I did a project that needed any putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model.
 
When I pulled out my favorite tube of putty (labeled "TAMIYA PUTTY BASIC TYPE") I found it had hardened up like a rock inside the tube!
 
Oh well, I thought. I don't like Squadron putty nearly as much, but I do have a tube already and so guess I will have to use it. I opened my tube labeled SQUADRON FAST DRYING WHITE PUTTY and it is also hardened, altho not as badly as the Tamiya putty.
 
Clearly I'm gonna have to buy a new tube of some kind of putty, so I'm looking for ideas regarding what other people use. Do you have a favorite? Pluses and minuses of each? Any help regarding gotchas and/or techniques? How about using automotive spot putty from a big box store - something like Bondo glazing and spot putty - does anyone use that?
 
Opinions...
 
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on the topic
 
Claus Schlund
 


--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Lester Breuer
 

I stopped using Squadron Green long ago as in my opinion worked ok only if a new opened  tube.   I use MEK Goop made up with scrap styrene plastic and MEK as already described.  If used a very fine wire applicator (photo attached) to apply.  I also use Testor’s putty in grey tube with white letteing.  The putty is white in color, applies easily and does not shrink.  If in a hurry either of these can be set quickly with an application of CA.   Both of these old school; however, work week for me.  Another old one is to fill crack with baking soda followed application of CA.   There are many new putties on the market today, some made especially for plastic, that all work well.  Just takes time to find one you are comfortable working with.
Keep Modeling,
Lester  Breuer


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Jared Harper
 

Automobile spot putty from an auto supply store.  I have been using it for years.  I use it on plastic, metal and wood.


Re: partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

Schuyler Larrabee
 

And isn’t this just to the left?

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 3:51 PM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

 

Hi List Members,

 

A partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction.

 

As far as I am able to tell, this car is VGN 6383, part of series 6000-6999, 32'6" IL, 11,000 lb capacity.

 

There is also a partial view of a C&O twin hopper.

 

 

Enjoy!

 

Claus Schlund

 


Re: C&O and VGN hoppers at Summerlee Mine WV (New River Coal Company)

Schuyler Larrabee
 

This looks like it’s a swing to the right from your earlier link, Claus.

 

https://wvhistoryonview.org/image/002043.jpg

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 3:10 PM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] C&O and VGN hoppers at Summerlee Mine WV (New River Coal Company)

 

Hi List Members,

 

C&O and VGN hoppers at Summerlee Mine WV (New River Coal Company)

 

In particular, we see C&O twin hopper 21638, and also a bit of VGN 11812.

 

 

Enjoy!

 

Claus Schlund

 

 

 


partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;)
 

Hi List Members,
 
A partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction.
 
As far as I am able to tell, this car is VGN 6383, part of series 6000-6999, 32'6" IL, 11,000 lb capacity.
 
There is also a partial view of a C&O twin hopper.
 
 
Enjoy!
 
Claus Schlund
 


C&O and VGN hoppers at Summerlee Mine WV (New River Coal Company)

Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;)
 

Hi List Members,
 
C&O and VGN hoppers at Summerlee Mine WV (New River Coal Company)
 
In particular, we see C&O twin hopper 21638, and also a bit of VGN 11812.
 
 
Enjoy!
 
Claus Schlund
 
 
 


Photo: Reading Hopper 73228 (1952)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: Reading Hopper 73228 (1952)

A photo from the Temple University Archives:

https://digital.library.temple.edu/digital/collection/p15037coll3/id/17868/rec/22

Click on the arrows and scroll to enlarge.

Two other hoppers in photo.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

A photo from the Temple University Archives:

https://digital.library.temple.edu/digital/collection/p15037coll3/id/67198/rec/4

Click on the arrows and scroll to enlarge.

Pennsylvania Railroad's 44th Street Yard.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Photo: NYC Boxcar 110000 That Wandered Away (1954)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: NYC Boxcar 110000 That Wandered Away (1954)

A photo from the Temple University Archives:

https://digital.library.temple.edu/digital/collection/p15037coll3/id/44172/rec/8

Click on the arrows and scroll to enlarge.

Small mishap.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: C&O 21920 twin hopper

Larry Smith
 

According to the 1937 C&O freight car book, these cars were built by Standard Steel Car 1906.  They were rated at 50-tons.  The drawing indicated that they had heap shields on each end.  They were classified as H5-8 on the C&O  C&O acquired 1500 of these cars in two different number series and by 1936, 147 cars in the 21000-21999 were left with all of them being retired in 1939

Larry Smith

On Monday, May 17, 2021, 9:29:19 AM CDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:


After downloading and adjusting image levels in Photoshop, a 1925 weigh date stencil is visible.

 

The centered end posts and brake platform, and the different grab/handhold ladders on the corners make this an interesting prototype. I just modified a couple Bowser GLa hoppers to mimic the centered end posts. It was pretty easy.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2021 6:51 PM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] C&O 21920 twin hopper

 

Hi List Members,

 

C&O 21920 twin hopper

 

The web site thinks the date to be "ca. 1930-1940", but I think I see a 1925 date on the side of the car.

 

 

Enjoy!

 

Claus Schlund

 


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Tony Thompson
 

     I changed long ago from Squadron to Tamiya, better qualities all around. I once made up a batch of the "styrene putty" from sprues, worked okay, wasn't wonderful. Maybe I need more experience to recommend it fully, but I recall Richard Hendrickson hadn't much liked it either. Maybe we didn't make it right.

Tony Thompson



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