Date   

Re: ANOTHER FLAT CAR QUESTION

Steve and Barb Hile
 

Going way back to October 1952 in Model Railroader, you could find a simplified version of the Cyclopedia drawing.

 

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Scott H. Haycock
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 1:21 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] ANOTHER FLAT CAR QUESTION

 

On 05/18/2021 12:03 PM Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:

I seem to remember drawings in Mainline Modeler, but I don't have the reference information handy.  Hopefully someone has it handy.

 

 

The May 1984 issue of M.M. has drawings of a very similar ACL flat. The March 1989 issue has a Mont Switzer article about building the Tichy model with a road grader load.

 

Scott Haycock


Re: Photo: FGEX 11158 Wreck (1955)

Louie B. Hydrick
 

Greetings, 

Both of these reefers were shopped and apparently repainted in July 1955, note the AX-AFI in the upper left corner.  

I suspect that one of the ex-PRR R 7 class is the next car to the left, and it also appears to be recently repainted based on condition.                                                                       

Louie B. Hydrick
Associate Broker
RE/MAX Reinvented
130 N. Belair Rd
Evans  GA 30809-3261
706-832-6263 Mobile
706-933-1133 Office
GA License: 207874 SC License: 14865

Or visit me on the web at:
www.csrahomesandland.com
or
www.louiebhydrick.remax-georgia.com


FINISHING FLAT VAR DECKS

Bruce Smith
 

Bill,

No offense, but have you been sniffing too much solvent-based paint? 🙂!  Wood and plastic are (obviously) very different materials and so require different approaches. 

Plastic looks like plastic. To change its color requires paint. The first step with plastic is to make it look like wood. Then of course you need to weather it.

Laser-cut wood looks like... wait for it... wood! So there is no need to make it look like wood. Wood, being porous, requires stains, instead of paint. Note that paints can be used as stains, but it is a fundamentally different process. 

When working with flat car (and gondola) decks, the first thing needed is to understand the base color. Different railroads used different wood (pine, oak, etc...) and different treatments (none, creosote, etc...) and then, of course, there is the question of how long the deck has been on the car as well. 

I tend to start my wood decks with a mix of brown and black leather dye as a stain. Paint it on, let it sit a few seconds, and then wipe it off. Once the base color is down, I come back with washes of acrylic paint, diluted in alcohol (note, for plastic decks I use more water in the mix for washes) to weather. I will often dump some isopropyl alcohol on the deck to blend it a bit, if I think it is too stark. From there, it is really just a matter of adding layers, mostly randomly. Remember that layers of weather add depth.

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of WILLIAM PARDIE <PARDIEW001@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 12:20 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] FINISHING FLAT VAR DECKS
 
CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.
There have been many great articles and posts on distressing and finishing plastic flat cat decks.  I would think that the same techniques would apply to finishing laser cut wood decking.
I did not, however, enjoy the same success in working with these.  Does anyone have a special technique for finishing these?

Bill :Pardie


Re: ANOTHER FLAT CAR QUESTION

Scott H. Haycock
 

On 05/18/2021 12:03 PM Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:
I seem to remember drawings in Mainline Modeler, but I don't have the reference information handy.  Hopefully someone has it handy.
 
 
The May 1984 issue of M.M. has drawings of a very similar ACL flat. The March 1989 issue has a Mont Switzer article about building the Tichy model with a road grader load.
 
Scott Haycock


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Sorry Ben, my bad.  Doh.

 

Elden Gatwood

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 2:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

 

Elden Gatwood wrote:

"...this was repainted at P712 in 3-53 in MS3 P&L."

 

Do not concur.  Car clearly has large Circle Keystone vice the Shadow Keystone of MS3.  This car is in MS2.

 

 

Ben Hom


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

Benjamin Hom
 

Elden Gatwood wrote:
"...this was repainted at P712 in 3-53 in MS3 P&L."

Do not concur.  Car clearly has large Circle Keystone vice the Shadow Keystone of MS3.  This car is in MS2.


Ben Hom


Re: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] ANOTHER FLAT CAR QUESTION

Bruce Smith
 

Bill,

Yes, the car drawing was published in the car builder's cyc at some point. Here it is.

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of WILLIAM PARDIE <PARDIEW001@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 12:23 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] ANOTHER FLAT CAR QUESTION
 
CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.

Hs there ever been a drawing published for the Tichy NC&SL flat car?

Bill Pardie







Re: ANOTHER FLAT CAR QUESTION

Benjamin Hom
 

Bill Pardie asked:
"Has there ever been a drawing published for the Tichy NC&S[t]L flat car?"

Richard Hendrickson's article in the June 1993 issue of Railmodel Journal mentions a photo of the NC&StL car with general arrangement drawings published in the 1928 and 1931 Car Builders' Cyclopedias and reprinted in Newton Gregg's Train Shed Cyclopedia No. 46.

I seem to remember drawings in Mainline Modeler, but I don't have the reference information handy.  Hopefully someone has it handy.


Ben Hom


Re: ANOTHER FLAT CAR QUESTION

lrkdbn
 

I believe Gregg's Train Shed #46 "Flats, Gons, Hoppers 1931" has this car. As I recall there were two orders of these cars built,one with KC brake(the Tichy car) and one with with KD brake. The drawing is the car with KD brake.
Larry King


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Guys;

 

I agree, this was repainted at P712 in 3-53 in MS3 P&L.  I see no evidence of a reweigh.

 

Repaints into MS were not confined to Altoona.

 

I am curious about the truck.  Whose is that?

 

Elden Gatwood

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 1:52 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

 

Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

A photo from the Temple University Archives:

https://digital.library.temple.edu/digital/collection/p15037coll3/id/67198/rec/4

Click on the arrows and scroll to enlarge.

Pennsylvania Railroad's 44th Street Yard.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

n


ANOTHER FLAT CAR QUESTION

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

Hs there ever been a drawing published for the Tichy NC&SL flat car?

Bill Pardie


FINISHING FLAT VAR DECKS

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

There have been many great articles and posts on distressing and finishing plastic flat cat decks.  I would think that the same techniques would apply to finishing laser cut wood decking.
I did not, however, enjoy the same success in working with these.  Does anyone have a special technique for finishing these?

Bill :Pardie
_._,_._,_


Photo: FGEX 11158 Wreck (1955)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: FGEX 11158 Wreck (1955)

A photo from the Temple University Archives:

https://digital.library.temple.edu/digital/collection/p15037coll3/id/67201/rec/2

Click on the arrows and scroll to enlarge.

Stencil: “When Empty Return To Pennsylvania RR Indianapolis, Ind.”

Same stencil on second reefer.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

kevinhlafferty
 

One other thing…If you go with the vacuum sander attachment be sure your vacuum has a bag or filter that is specifically designed for drywall dust. Drywall dust is extremely fine and will go right through a standard bag/filter ending up in the motor. It will significantly reduce motor life (don’t ask me how I know this).

 

Kevin L.

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of kevinhlafferty
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 10:08 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

As you stated the problem that you may encounter will be the large difference in both thermal and hygroscopic expansion rates between the styrene and the joint compound. As for dust, I’ve used one of these for years and they work great. No mess at all.

https://hydetools.com/product/dust-free-vacuum-hand-sander-kit/

 

Also there are “low dust joint compound” products that produce significantly less dust than traditional joint compounds. Not really sure how they work, but they do work.

 

Kevin L.

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 8:51 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

Dennis,

 

That sounds easy enough. I’ll give the dry wall compound a try. I used in on the joints on my Masonite branchline backdrop, and it hasn’t cracked in the three year’s it’s been in place. The coefficient of expansion is different for styrene and Masonite, so we’ll see in time if it works. The only problem with drywall compound is the dust!

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 8:18 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 03:59 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.

Actually, since you've already primed the styrene with something that should bond to it, I would just use drywall taping compound. The bond between taping compound and styrene would be questionable, but taping compound sticks tenaciously to painted surfaces, so should be OK>

Dennis Storzek

 


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

kevinhlafferty
 

As you stated the problem that you may encounter will be the large difference in both thermal and hygroscopic expansion rates between the styrene and the joint compound. As for dust, I’ve used one of these for years and they work great. No mess at all.

https://hydetools.com/product/dust-free-vacuum-hand-sander-kit/

 

Also there are “low dust joint compound” products that produce significantly less dust than traditional joint compounds. Not really sure how they work, but they do work.

 

Kevin L.

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 8:51 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

Dennis,

 

That sounds easy enough. I’ll give the dry wall compound a try. I used in on the joints on my Masonite branchline backdrop, and it hasn’t cracked in the three year’s it’s been in place. The coefficient of expansion is different for styrene and Masonite, so we’ll see in time if it works. The only problem with drywall compound is the dust!

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 8:18 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 03:59 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.

Actually, since you've already primed the styrene with something that should bond to it, I would just use drywall taping compound. The bond between taping compound and styrene would be questionable, but taping compound sticks tenaciously to painted surfaces, so should be OK>

Dennis Storzek

 


Re: Hygrade ~1600 series

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Doug, you are entirely correct.  Shouldn’t make posts that late at night, I guess.  Apologies.


Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Douglas Harding
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 12:36 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Actually the tankcars are marked Jacob E Decker JEDX 50-73, leased from North American Car Co.

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Schuyler Larrabee via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 10:54 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Interesting tank car off to the left, also marked “Hygrade.”

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Douglas Harding
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 11:45 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

I do have one photo of a HyGrade reefer, circa 1929. The attached photo is of the loading area of the Decker meat plant in Mason City, from a Decker Brochure. The reefer with the prominent “Decker” on the side is actually a Mather Reefer leased to HyGrade, the reporting marks are partially visible on the end of the car. The late Richard Hendrickson made the identification.

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Douglas Harding via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 10:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

This is what I have on HyGrade the company. I do not have anything on their reefers, and all my reference material is packed for an upcoming move.

 

Hygrade Food Products dates back to the 1800s. To Central Hanover Bank & Trust in 1929

 

The Storm Lake IA plant was opened in 1935 by Kingan & Co of Indianapolis and Nash Brothers. Kingan bought out Nash Brothers in 1937. Kingan was purchased by HyGrade in 1952.

 

In April 1982, IBP bought the old Storm Lake plant from Hygrade for $2.5 million. The Storm Lake workers were not welcomed back. Hundreds applied for positions at the new plant, but fewer than thirty were hired. Wages averaged $7 per hour, or $14,600 per year – less than half the average salary of the old workers. IBP imported a largely immigrant work force to man the plant.

 

 

Hygrade purchased Carstens Packing Co of Tacoma WA in 1952 and closed the plant in 1990. Carstens was the largest independent meat packer on the west coast.

 

 

HyGrade purchased Kingan of Indianapolis in 1954

 

HyGrade acquired F Schenk & Sons of Wheeling OH

 

Hygrade sold to Sara Lee in 1989

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve SANDIFER
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 8:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Golly, Schuyler! You are right, I would not have noticed that, you have some sharp brain cells going on there!
 
See the awesome scene at the link below...
 
 
Enjoy!
 
Claus Schlund
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

And isn’t this just to the left?

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 3:51 PM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

 

Hi List Members,

 

A partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction.

 

As far as I am able to tell, this car is VGN 6383, part of series 6000-6999, 32'6" IL, 11,000 lb capacity.

 

There is also a partial view of a C&O twin hopper.

 

 

Enjoy!

 

Claus Schlund

 


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Nelson Moyer
 

That was my experience with baking soda as well, except that I was building RC model airplanes then and balsa is even softer than styrene.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 9:33 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

Hi Lester and List Members,

 

Thanks Lester for the quite comprehensive writeup.

 

Lester wrote: "Another old one is to fill crack with baking soda followed application of CA"

 

I did this once, so I only have very limited experience. I found that the resulting baking soda/CA fill material was a lot harder than the surrounding plastic, and this made it difficult to sand down a smooth surface, so I never tried that method again.

 

Claus Schlund

 

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:25 PM

Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

I stopped using Squadron Green long ago as in my opinion worked ok only if a new opened  tube.   I use MEK Goop made up with scrap styrene plastic and MEK as already described.  If used a very fine wire applicator (photo attached) to apply.  I also use Testor’s putty in grey tube with white letteing.  The putty is white in color, applies easily and does not shrink.  If in a hurry either of these can be set quickly with an application of CA.   Both of these old school; however, work week for me.  Another old one is to fill crack with baking soda followed application of CA.   There are many new putties on the market today, some made especially for plastic, that all work well.  Just takes time to find one you are comfortable working with.
Keep Modeling,
Lester  Breuer


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Nelson Moyer
 

The attached picture shows the butt joint in the center with faint shadows on either side of the splice plate. Those shadows are the troughs. They aren’t very deep, and you can feel them better than see them.

 

I used MEK to cement the splice plate to the two styrene panels lying face down on the garage floor, with two 40 lb. bags of softener salt as weights. There are two splices, and the first one ended up smooth, while the second one has the irregularities shown in the picture. I think I used too much MEK on the second joint and softened the styrene on either side of the splice plate causing the deformation.

 

I’m confident I can smooth this out with dry wall compound, but whether or not that proves to be a long time fix remains to be seen.

 

This thread stretches the limits of freight car topics, so thanks to all who offered advice, and this is my last word on the matter.

 

Nelson Moyer


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 


Hi Lester and List Members,
 
Thanks Lester for the quite comprehensive writeup.
 
Lester wrote: "Another old one is to fill crack with baking soda followed application of CA"
 
I did this once, so I only have very limited experience. I found that the resulting baking soda/CA fill material was a lot harder than the surrounding plastic, and this made it difficult to sand down a smooth surface, so I never tried that method again.
 
Claus Schlund
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

I stopped using Squadron Green long ago as in my opinion worked ok only if a new opened  tube.   I use MEK Goop made up with scrap styrene plastic and MEK as already described.  If used a very fine wire applicator (photo attached) to apply.  I also use Testor’s putty in grey tube with white letteing.  The putty is white in color, applies easily and does not shrink.  If in a hurry either of these can be set quickly with an application of CA.   Both of these old school; however, work week for me.  Another old one is to fill crack with baking soda followed application of CA.   There are many new putties on the market today, some made especially for plastic, that all work well.  Just takes time to find one you are comfortable working with.
Keep Modeling,
Lester  Breuer

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