Date   

NWSL mystery models

JGG KahnSr <jacekahn@...>
 

No mystery, really. NWSL imported at least six or eight models of Pacific northwest prototype logging rolling stock from Korea in the early 1970's. They were primarily constructed of wood sheet and strip with some whitemetal and brass detail castings. And, yes, those structures (bunkhouses) you have were originally designed to be transported by rail from one logging camp to another as areas were logged over. As you note, they were not designed for common-carrier use.
Jace Kahn
Mostly Fairbanks

Among my Dad's collection I have found two NWSL "Connoisseur"
logging structures -- a clerestory "dorm" and another building.
These buildings have truss rods, and almost look like they could
be rolling stock except for being 2x too wide. They're really
neat models but I'm not a logging fan and I'm not sure what they
are. Were they transportable temporary buildings?

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts

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Re: NWSL mystery models

Eugene Deimling <endeimling@...>
 

Tim:
I am not an expert on logging but I believe the models were built in Asia
and were intended to represent typical camp facilities. They could and were
moved by rail. As the loggers moved their operation from one area to the
next, they would move the cars. Logging roads on a private right of way
were not required to meet AAR standards as to car size. I would guess that
NWSL imported them in the 1970's.
Twenty plus years of hanging around with the Gazette staff caused me to
absorb a few bits of logging trivia.
Gene Deimling

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim O'Connor [mailto:timoconnor@attbi.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 9:12 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] NWSL mystery models



Among my Dad's collection I have found two NWSL "Connoisseur"
logging structures -- a clerestory "dorm" and another building.
These buildings have truss rods, and almost look like they could
be rolling stock except for being 2x too wide. They're really
neat models but I'm not a logging fan and I'm not sure what they
are. Were they transportable temporary buildings?

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts



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NWSL mystery models

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

Among my Dad's collection I have found two NWSL "Connoisseur"
logging structures -- a clerestory "dorm" and another building.
These buildings have truss rods, and almost look like they could
be rolling stock except for being 2x too wide. They're really
neat models but I'm not a logging fan and I'm not sure what they
are. Were they transportable temporary buildings?

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: RI car

Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
 

Thanks Steve, I'll get one.
Clark

steve hile wrote:

Sunshine has a very nice kit for this series of cars, #55.2 is the one I
built.

Steve Hile
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clark Propst" <cepropst@netconx.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] RI car

Oops...I forgot to give the number series and the page number!
161000-161349, bottom of
page 36.

Clark Propst wrote:

I was looking through the Morning Sun Rock Island freight car book (I
ignore passenger stuff) and found a interesting 40 ft. DD car that just
happens to have a couple of entries in the Landmesser M&StL set list.
Any ideas on how to build the car? I'm thinking an Intermountain Mod. 37
car with two 8' doors and a new sill. What would be good for decals?
Thanks,
CWPropst


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Re: Southern #23000-23486 Boxcar Doors #23000-23486

Greg Henschen <g.henschen@...>
 

In a message dated 5/3/03 12:12:32 PM, allencain@comcast.net writes:

I am posting this question for the second time to some lists. Unfortunately
I did not get any responses to the first request. Hopefully, someone can
help me soon as I am now at the point of adding the doors.

I am building four of the very fine Branchline Blueprint Southern Boxcars
(kit #1514) which represent the #23300-23486 series, built 8-47 by
Pullman-Standard (lot 5855).

Can anyone offer a photo reference or advice on the correct door
or these
cars in 1955?

The car numbers are:

23005
23168
23252
23399

<SNIP>

Allen,

According to my mid 1960's Southern Freight Car Diagram book, the door breakdown for the
series you ask about is listed as follows:

23000 - 23241 Camel doors
23242 - 23268 Superior doors
23269 - 23299 Camel doors
23300 - 23472 Superior doors
23473 - 23486 Camel doors

So given the cars numbers you asked about

23005 would be Camel
23168 would be Camel
23252 would be Superior
23399 would be Superior

Of course this assumes the original doors have not been replaced for some reason.

The hand brakes are listed as Universal for all of the above, but
interestingly, 23300 - 23486 may have been Miner. The diagram book has
Miner erased and replaced with a ditto mark in the hand brake column starting
with 23300 - 23472. Early and late photos of the hand brake end on this series would
help clear this mystery up.

Hope this helps,

Greg Henschen


Re: NERS Dominion cars.

Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...>
 

I'm happy with it Don. Thanks for the details.

Rob Kirkham

----- Original Message -----


Re: Southern #23300-23486 Boxcar Doors and Tack Boards #23300-23486

cf5250 <timoconnor@...>
 

This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I had noticed the
incorrect number of panels on the door and had been looking
for replacements.... Allen Cain
Just FYI, Branchline included a 7 panel 8 foot door on their
initial series of 50 foot box cars. The panels are different
sizes however, so it's not strictly correct either. I built
the car with the kit's 6 panel door even though I have some
of Joe's beautiful resin doors -- I didn't feel like trying
to match the paint color.

Tim O'Connor


Re: Oil Paints

smokeandsteam@...
 

Rob Kirkham wrote:

Is there a reason to prefer oils to acrylics? I would have thought the
opposite.<<

Ron

The reason I like oils is that they are so slow drying. This give me time to
blend edges of colours and attack them with palette knives rags, sponges, wet
brushes, dry brushes, paper towels and, yes, even Q- tips before they dry.
Acrylics dry much, much quicker in minutes rather than days so that you are
much more limited in some techniques.

The thickness of oils can be useful for adding textures as well. Some rust
spots have quite a distinct texture that can easily be simulated with the end
of a stiff brush worked into the paint.

Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton
Willows, CA


Re: RI car

Steve and Barb Hile
 

Sunshine has a very nice kit for this series of cars, #55.2 is the one I
built.

Steve Hile

----- Original Message -----
From: "Clark Propst" <cepropst@netconx.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] RI car


Oops...I forgot to give the number series and the page number!
161000-161349, bottom of
page 36.

Clark Propst wrote:

I was looking through the Morning Sun Rock Island freight car book (I
ignore passenger stuff) and found a interesting 40 ft. DD car that just
happens to have a couple of entries in the Landmesser M&StL set list.
Any ideas on how to build the car? I'm thinking an Intermountain Mod. 37
car with two 8' doors and a new sill. What would be good for decals?
Thanks,
CWPropst


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Re: RI car

Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
 

Oops...I forgot to give the number series and the page number! 161000-161349, bottom of
page 36.

Clark Propst wrote:

I was looking through the Morning Sun Rock Island freight car book (I
ignore passenger stuff) and found a interesting 40 ft. DD car that just
happens to have a couple of entries in the Landmesser M&StL set list.
Any ideas on how to build the car? I'm thinking an Intermountain Mod. 37
car with two 8' doors and a new sill. What would be good for decals?
Thanks,
CWPropst


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STMFC-unsubscribe@egroups.com



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RI car

Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
 

I was looking through the Morning Sun Rock Island freight car book (I
ignore passenger stuff) and found a interesting 40 ft. DD car that just
happens to have a couple of entries in the Landmesser M&StL set list.
Any ideas on how to build the car? I'm thinking an Intermountain Mod. 37
car with two 8' doors and a new sill. What would be good for decals?
Thanks,
CWPropst


Re: other freight car lists

ljack70117@...
 

Someone asked for a modern freight car list
MFCL-subscribe@yahoogroups.cos is one of them
Thank you
Larry Jackman


Re: NERS Dominion cars.

Don Valentine
 

Quoting Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@shaw.ca>:

Stafford, thanks for your input on these cars again. My interest is
piqued
by the following comments in your e-mail:

(per Don Valentine) The style of roof has yet to be determined.
If I get my way these will be the as-delivered wood-sheathed roofs.

That said, I am now aware some cars were rebuilt with CNR's favorite
Hutchins roofs. That is, Al Welch has been working on me on the
existence/frequency of this feature and has provided a photo of one
car and mentioned yet another to me. While I'm not yet convinced this
was a very common retrofit as my ca 1984/85 research said "there were
none", this is now a live issue. These days I have way more photos
to trudge through to revisit the question properly. Thus this won't
be quick.
This raises a some questions - partly model - partly prototype.

When you say you want "wood-sheathed roofs", do you mean metal-clad
wood-sheathed roofs, or just the bare boards? - (I'm struggling to find
the
right terms here, so bear with me).

As I understand the CPR cars from looking at photos (not that many, I
grant
you) by the mid thirties, I'd estimate that at least 75% of cars I've
observed had metal sheathed roofs. (Of course, your e-mail refers to
the
CNR cars, which I don't know much about - they may be different). I'm
not
knowledgeable enough to say if these metal sheathed roofs were a
proprietary
roof or a company shops effort - so do not know if it was Hutchins, or
something else. (And most photos in my collection aren't clear enough
to
judge in any event.)

When I've purchased Westerfield and Kaslo versions of the car, I've
tended
to buy mostly the metal clad roof cars. I thought that a good balance
for
late 30's to late 40's. But again, the CNR cars could be different.

Or maybe your point is that wood roofs are easier to modify to metal,
than
from metal back to wood?

Or maybe the Life Like Canada cars are metal roofs and you want the
option
of having someone else do the wood?

I hope I haven't lost you with this meandering question. But I'd like
to
get an understanding, first, of the roof options available on the
prototype
for both the CNR and CPR cars, and also some understanding of why your
research leans you to favor wood sheathed. (Knowing that you model a
later
period than do I).

Let's try to clear a couple of things up here to assist Rod and others,
too. The car for which the roof type has not been settled on yet is the
second style of CNR car we plan, the CPR fleet being more homogeneous than
that of the CNR in post war years.

The fact that boards show on the outside of the roof does not necessarily
mean that the car does not have a metal roof. This is due to the fact that
some early metal roofs had wood sheathing ON TOP of the metal, strange as
all that sounds. The CNR and CPR each used outside metal roofs from a
different suppliers, primarily Hutchins for the CNR and primarily Chicago
(who sold the Murphy style roof) for the CPR. The INSIDE metal roofs used
by the two may well have been the same. Since they were hidden by the board
sheathing it doesn't make any difference as the look of the board sheathing
seems to be quite standard and doesn't seem to have been effected by the
use of an INSIDE metal roof underneath some of them.

This being said, my strong inclination has been to use a wood sheathed
roof for the second style of CNR cars. Such a roof could be utilized for
both straight wood sheathed roofs or wood sheathed roofs with an INSIDE
metal roof. It was decided early on with this project to mold the cars
having the floor included with the sides and ends, rather than the roof, for
the reason that it provided greater flexibility with the roof. We could offer
all cars with a choice of several roofs.....and earn the wrath of every hobby
dealer in North America at least. It is better, however, to offer each style
of car with only one roof but make roofs available separately so that modelers
can change roofs if they wish to do so. That is what will be done and that is
why I've been leaning so heavily toward the wood sheathed roof for the second
style of CNR car. Then, with three different roofs available separately, if
ever all modelers are happy with something, everyone should be happy.

So, does that make everbody happy early on a Sunday morning?

Take care, Don Valentine


Re: Kits vs. RTR Models

Steven Delibert <stevdel@...>
 

You might be amazed (I'm amazed, and I'm a left-wing nut!) at just who
is a large part of the up-coming generation of modelers, and just how good
and serious they are.
And having started this discussion, if we want to take it further, let's
continue it off-list, since Mr. Interlocutor is (rightly) pretty serious
about keeping the on-list list on track for steam era freight cars.
Steve Delibert

----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Joppich" <gjopp@msn.com>

Not sure Detroit cars would sell in Detroit right now! <VBG>

Glenn Joppich
Detroit, MI
(Die hard Wing Nut )


Re: Oil Paints

Schuyler G Larrabee <SGL2@...>
 

I have worked successfully with acrylics, and can't make oils work worth a
damn.

SGL

----- Original Message -----
From: "TC" <tculotta@speedwitch.com>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Oil Paints


Rob Kirkham wrote:

Is there a reason to prefer oils to acrylics? I would have thought
the
opposite.
Ron:

My personal experience (and this is not by any means right) is I find
that oils (and other solvent based paints) tend to flow better for me.
I also like the thickness of the tube based oils and the way they react
with mineral spirits. However, there are plenty of other modelers that
make acrylics work for weathering. I think it's all about what works
for you and what you are comfortable with. I say that the most
important thing is to do it. One will never build up a basis of
experience if he doesn't try.

Regards,
Ted Culotta







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Re: NERS Standard Car's Dominion Cars

Schuyler G Larrabee <SGL2@...>
 

Hey, Don,

From: "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@shaw.ca>

Suggested:
As a compromise,
a conversion kit would be fine.
which is a damn fine idea, but then he goes on to say:

But make sure the car gets to the market in a form that will sell - with
whatever brakes that takes. I want well over a hundred of them.
Sounds like someone to listen to . . .

SGL


address

Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
 

I have a friend that models beyond the era of this group. I think he
would enjoy the other freight car group. Could someone please give me
their address.
Thanks,
Clark Propst


Re: Southern #23300-23486 Boxcar Doors and Tack Boards #23300-23486

Allen Cain <allencain@...>
 

Ed and Jerry,

THANK YOU!

This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I had noticed the incorrect number
of panels on the door and had been looking for replacements. Now that I
have your input, I can comfortably use the Superior doors and consider them
as replacements on the cars which came with the six panel doors.

Ed, any info which you would like to share on the 5855 series would also be
appreciated.

Allen Cain
Murfreesboro, TN


Re: Canadian cars

Earl Tuson
 

Don Valentine said,

The mills which you have overlooked in this scenario...
I overlooked no mills, as my post was strictly limited to the traffic interchanged onto the Suncook Valley in Nov and Dec 1952. The other mills you listed did not send any traffic to the line at that time.

Earl Tuson


Re: Life Like announces Fowler cars ?

ThisIsR@...
 

Can anyone tell me about the NC&StL cars that Don Valentine mentioned?
BTW
I don't know if Joe Oates is on this list, but I'm excited about the future
prospect of
"watermelon" cars. Thanks.

Richard Stallworth

170261 - 170280 of 188720