Date   

Re: Who's door?

mel perry
 

hutchins?
;-)
mel perry

On Thu, Jun 10, 2021, 3:52 PM Clark Propst via groups.io <cepropst=q.com@groups.io> wrote:
Anyone know who made this door?
Clark Propst


Who's door?

Clark Propst
 

Anyone know who made this door?
Clark Propst


Re: C&O 40ft steel gondola and a flat with removable milk containers - Renovo PA 1952

Charles Greene
 

Now that's rich Pennsy railroading! Which H-subclass on the point, -8?

                -Chuck

On Thu, Jun 10, 2021 at 4:39 PM Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;) <claus@...> wrote:
Hi List Members,
 
A C&O 40ft steel gondola and a flat with removable milk containers - Renovo PA 1952
 
 
Enjoy!
 
Claus Schlund
 
 


C&O 40ft steel gondola and a flat with removable milk containers - Renovo PA 1952

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi List Members,
 
A C&O 40ft steel gondola and a flat with removable milk containers - Renovo PA 1952
 
 
Enjoy!
 
Claus Schlund
 
 


UP Livestock Car 42299 (S-40-15)

Bob Chaparro
 

UP Livestock Car 42299 (S-40-15)

Photo from Don Strack’s UtahRails Website:

https://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails/Union-Pacific/UP-Freight-Cars/i-XwXhpJ3/A

Click on the photo to enlarge it.

Built 3-1956 in the Omaha Shops. Steel-sided construction.

A diagram from Dick Harley’s Harley-Trains website:

https://harley-trains.smugmug.com/UPFreightDiagrams/Stock-Car/i-JDWJC8p/A

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railway Bull Shippers Group

https://groups.io/g/RailwayBullShippersGroup


Reserves fully met: Great Northern 1954 rebuilt 50' SS auto car boxcar

Andy Carlson
 

I have the 10 cars reserved. Thanks for those folks. My plans don't have me making more than these 10 cars.
Thanks,
-Andy

On Wednesday, June 9, 2021, 5:53:19 PM PDT, Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:



The Great Northern had 1000s of early 1920s wood side box cars which had fishbelly structured underframes and early style of steel ends. In 1952 the GN initiated a rebuild of these cars into more useful all steel 8' single door box cars. The wood siding, flooring doors and roof were jettisoned to the trash heap. New riveted sides with post war Youngstown steel doors and a diagonal panel steel roof were placed onto the existing fish belly under frame and 6/5/5 Murphy corrugated ends. The cars were not heightened and remained at pre-rebuilt 10'0" IH.
Inline image

Bill Welch's  HO model from years ago.

The initial rebuilds were painted into the then standard GN Mineral Red scheme with a side ways facing goat. Early on quite a few were equipped with load dividers and were painted into at least 3 Orange and Green "loader" schemes. Even later, many received Vermillian red in slant serif and EB lettering plus Big Sky Blue and many Glacier Green schemes were done as well.

My work on this series of rebuilds was done years ago. At the time I was making these molds Bill Welch asked for a pair of sides as he had a Westerfield 1925 50' SS autocar, which were the types used for the rebuilding. I eventually tried an experimental technique to have the roof integrate the inclusion of the top gable shaped portion of the 6/5/5 corrugated ends. The end just needed to be horizontally flat across the top. While making the fit of the roof to the sides critically exact, the difficult-at-times of fitting roofs, sides and ends together with no gaps was made much easier.

I had made  a longer wheelbase fish belly under frame back then getting the striker distance to bolster center to 5'0".  I was to learn years later that GN did lots of modifications to the under frame for the rebuildings. Floor stringers which were not on the 1925 floors were added, along with cross-ties and cross member which the originals did not have any of either. I have started adding these structural additions to my stretched frame.

After some other current works which are placed ahead of this project are done I will complete the molds for this GN 50' rebuild box car. I am planning on making 10 casting sets which will be offered to the STMFC list at that time. If anyone wishes to have me reserve a non-obligated one of these cars for later purchase, feel free to ask. I am not accepting any up front money for these. Please note that these are not one-piece bodies.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA
<midcentury@...>






Paint progress

Eric Hansmann
 

I recently ended up with eleven freight car models at the paint booth. I made a line up card to keep track of the progress on each model. Those details are in the latest DesignBuildOp blog post.

Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN


7-course ACF LPG tank cars

nyc3001 .
 
Edited

Hi guys,

Ever since I got an OMI 3028 "1936" ACF LP tank car (which had 7 courses instead of 6, as seen on the Atlas and Kadee models), I've been looking for info on the earlier 7-course LP tank cars.

So, to sum up the sources listed at the end:

1. The OMI tank is 10.5k gallons, roughly 94" in diameter, and 1.5 ft. longer than the Kadee and Atlas tanks.


2. Ed's presentation states that there were 1,091 SHPX 7-course tank cars built from 1940-1946. These tanks were 11k gallons, 85" in diameter, and 4' longer than the Kadee and Atlas tanks.

3. The DuPont tank car in the thread is 11k gallons and also has 7 courses.


This leads me to tentatively conclude that:

1. There were at least two distinct designs and corresponding gallonages of ACF 7-course LP tanks. P
ossibly someone knows if there were more?

2. The DUPX tank car may be of a similar or the same design as the SHPX cars given their similar gallonages and build dates.

3. These are clearly important models whose numbers weren't insignificant compared to the Kadee and Atlas models. Other than OMI 3028, I don't think there is another accurate 7-course LPG tank in HO. It would be nice to see an 7-course 11k tank given that the underframe components seem to exist already (of course, the underframe will have to be lengthened by 4").


There were other 7-course LPG tank cars built by GATC, but I don't know enough about them to comment.



Elden Gatwood's comments on the OMI model:

"OVL 3028 is a very nice model of a roughly 10.5K 7-course 1936-built ~94"

diam ACF-built 105. Philgas and others had copies of this car. It is
similar to the 6-course Atlas car, but just different enough (~ 1.5 ft longer
tank, also) to be a nice option."
https://realstmfc.groups.io/g/main/message/101019?p=,,,20,0,0,0::Created,,3028,20,2,0,17238877


A recent thread on some 11k Dupont t
ank cars:
https://realstmfc.groups.io/g/main/topic/80283542#181608

Ed Hawkins's presentation given at the 2016 St. Louis RPM:
https://www.kadee.com/STL2016RPM/11K-Gal._ICC-105A_ACF_Type%2027.pdf

-Phil Lee


Great Northern 1952/3 rebuilt 50' SS auto car boxcar

Andy Carlson
 


The Great Northern had 1000s of early 1920s wood side box cars which had fishbelly structured underframes and early style of steel ends. In 1952 the GN initiated a rebuild of these cars into more useful all steel 8' single door box cars. The wood siding, flooring doors and roof were jettisoned to the trash heap. New riveted sides with post war Youngstown steel doors and a diagonal panel steel roof were placed onto the existing fish belly under frame and 6/5/5 Murphy corrugated ends. The cars were not heightened and remained at pre-rebuilt 10'0" IH.
Inline image

Bill Welch's  HO model from years ago.

The initial rebuilds were painted into the then standard GN Mineral Red scheme with a side ways facing goat. Early on quite a few were equipped with load dividers and were painted into at least 3 Orange and Green "loader" schemes. Even later, many received Vermillian red in slant serif and EB lettering plus Big Sky Blue and many Glacier Green schemes were done as well.

My work on this series of rebuilds was done years ago. At the time I was making these molds Bill Welch asked for a pair of sides as he had a Westerfield 1925 50' SS autocar, which were the types used for the rebuilding. I eventually tried an experimental technique to have the roof integrate the inclusion of the top gable shaped portion of the 6/5/5 corrugated ends. The end just needed to be horizontally flat across the top. While making the fit of the roof to the sides critically exact, the difficult-at-times of fitting roofs, sides and ends together with no gaps was made much easier.

I had made  a longer wheelbase fish belly under frame back then getting the striker distance to bolster center to 5'0".  I was to learn years later that GN did lots of modifications to the under frame for the rebuildings. Floor stringers which were not on the 1925 floors were added, along with cross-ties and cross member which the originals did not have any of either. I have started adding these structural additions to my stretched frame.

After some other current works which are placed ahead of this project are done I will complete the molds for this GN 50' rebuild box car. I am planning on making 10 casting sets which will be offered to the STMFC list at that time. If anyone wishes to have me reserve a non-obligated one of these cars for later purchase, feel free to ask. I am not accepting any up front money for these. Please note that these are not one-piece bodies.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA
<midcentury@...>






Re: MTC 71979

akerboomk
 

RE: History of these cars:

 

Try this:

https://www.bmrrhs.org/box_71000_series/

 

I am working on collating the B&M “Disposition records” for these cars, I hope to add that data in the next month or 2.

If anyone has anything else to add, let me know…

 

Ken


--
Ken Akerboom


Re: MTC 71979

Tony Thompson
 

     I like the model, Clark, good weathering touches. Glad you shared it.

Tony Thompson




Re: MTC 71979

Nelson Moyer
 

The camera is not only a valuable tool, but it’s your worst critic.

 

The XM-1 turned out fine despite the Tru Color travails. With Tru Color, it really important to check everything by taking pictures after priming. That way it’s a lot easier to make corrections. Once you paint with Tru Color, it’s very difficult to make paint touch-ups because the new paint softens and mixes with the old paint, smears, allows contrasting colors to bleed through, and other headaches. Tru Color isn’t meant for brush painting, though I’ll try to salvage a paint job with a brush as a last resort before stripping and starting again. Of course, if the accidents occur after decals are applied, that means a new set of decals.

 

For example, I’ve been working on the truss rod FGE reefer mini-kit from Chicagoland 1918, and I’ve made about every mistake imaginable while trying to get a decent paint job. First problem was some gouges from removing molded grab irons that I didn’t see until after the sides were painted yellow. I removed the paint using a Q-Tip wetted with lacquer thinner to remove the paint and Tamiya white putty to fill the dings. I scribed the board groves with mixed results, brush primed with Tamiya gray primer out of a bottle, and sprayed the sides yellow again. After applying the roof and end details, I snapped the sides in place and glued in the floor, which also glued the sides down.  I marked the location of the brake foot, brake step, and upper brake staff bracket, then glued the brake step onto the B end. I inserted the brake staff, and painted  the roof and ends. To my dismay, I noticed that the brake staff was leaning left two board widths. Ouch. I removed the brake step, destroying it in the process, used CA remover to remove the CA and surrounding paint, sanded and primed the end damage, built a new brake step, primed it, and mounted it properly. While adding the brake staff the second time, I unknowingly got glue on a finger, so when I picked up the car body, I got a glue spot on the side paint. I put a drop of CA remover on the glue spot, and it promptly removed the glue, the paint, and the primer, so I had a circle of raw resin the size of a dime. I feathered the paint edges with 1000 grit sandpaper, primed the bare resin, masked the side with Tamiya curvable tape, PostIt notes, and my gloved fingers, and applied a few very light coats of paint with my air brush to blend the spot into the side paint. After the side dried, I used the same masking process to paint the B end damage from replacing the brake step. While checking the car before applying decals, I notices some yellow overspray on the outer truss rod, the roof fascia, and the roof. I brush painted the truss rod black, brush painted the fascia mineral red and airbrushed the roof mineral red. Thinking I was finished painting, I applied decals, only to notice a very light yellow overspray on the roof in two panels near the edge. I used a brush to touch up the paint, and ran into the usual Tru Color bane of smeared undercoat, and paint mixing. The brushed paint dried slightly globby, so I sanded it lightly, masked the side, and airbrushed the edge of the roof mineral red. All was well – or was it? A little mineral red wicked down the groove between two side boards about a half inch, leaving two parallel lines on my yellow side. Fortunately, the mineral red paint stopped short of the REFERIGERATOR decal. I tried to scrape the mineral red paint out of the groove with a dental pick with mixed success, the masked the fascia, roof, and decal, and airbrushed yellow paint over the board grooves. At that point, I quit. After all, it’s just a cheap plastic model.

 

I have never has such a series of undesirable events while building and painting a model, and Tru Color certainly compounded the difficulty of repairing damage. I think I’ve moved beyond slippage into early regression. Clark, if you decide to replace the brake step, you have my sincere sympathy.

 

Nelson Moyer


Verrrry slightly OT (was MTC 71979)

Nolan Hinshaw
 

On Jun 9, 2021, at 08:35, Clark Propst via groups.io <cepropst=q.com@groups.io> wrote:

When I saw MTC in the Subject line my aged brane immediately went gaga over the Molino Timber Company out of Aptos, CA, a 30 inch gauge line which seems to have been a subsidiary of the Loma Prieta Lumber Company's 36 inch gauge line which interchanged with the South Pacific Coast (See Bruce McGregor's books) in Aptos. The delightful aspect of that pike was the 1912-vintage 10 ton Shay (CN 2590, with crankcase!) which hauled flats loaded with shingle bolts to the head of an incline from sites along China Ridge and Hinkley Ridge in the Santa Cruz Mountains. My books are less than accessible, but my memory sez that those flats could have run on trucks from the likes of Orenstein-Koppell (possible conflation alert).

[OhByTheWay: keep contributing to the NGSLG!]
--
Artie the Hinged Jaw
Retired AFU Game Warden


Re: Morning Sun Color guides for Sale

rdgbuff56
 

Do you still have the ICG Color Guide?

Francis A. Pehowic, Jr.

On Tuesday, June 8, 2021, 09:11:02 PM EDT, ALLEN STANLEY <raildata45@...> wrote:


Hi All,

Have several Morning Sun Color Guides for sale. See attached list. From smoke free home most like new. One or two may have a happy something inscription in fron t cover. Please add $5 for shipping. Need money order or check only.

Please reply off list to raildata45@...

Thank you for looking.

Allen Stanley


Re: MTC 71979

Rich C
 

Excellent work, Clark
Rich Christie

On Wednesday, June 9, 2021, 10:35:20 AM CDT, Clark Propst via groups.io <cepropst@...> wrote:


On the 8th I finished assembling a F&C kit of a B&M XM-1 box car. I really enjoy these ‘old school’ kits...No etched parts! Car slapped together quickly in three settings. Just painted it with tru-color, so decals later today I hope. Model is primed with Tamiya gray. I’m thinking of decaling it for subsidiary MTC to be different...My wife always says I different anyway...  I didn’t read the instructions, but the only deviation was to replace the sill steps provided with A-Line “Style A” and of course that crappy green floral wire with Tichy .015” wire for brake piping and rods. Oh, and a piece of jewelry chain. My wife once asked me if I could get a knot out of a necklace, Of course I couldn’t, knowing It would work for brake chain  ;  ))
On the morning of the 9th I painted this model’s body with Tru-color Rich Oxide Red I used their grimy black on the separate underframe. Later that morning I decaled one side. That afternoon I decaled the other, I always have to chuckle because first side takes three times as long to decal as the second. After supper I airbrushed the underframe with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner. On the body I first sprayed on a mix on thinned Dullcote with some Testers ‘little square bottle’ brown as a tint. Next I tried to just spray the wood sections of the sides with a Dullcote mix with an off white as a tint. All a short wait I weathered by applying Raw Umber Pan Pastel to the underframe before and after adding the trucks which were also dullcoted when I did the underframe. I also used that Pan Pastel color along the bottom of the sides and for wheel splash on the ends. Next was a light application of PP black to the roof and ends applied with the same soft round cosmetic brush used in the underframe. The wheel splash on the ends and for applying black on the exposed tops of the sides (what the roof didn’t cover) I used a thin angled brush. I also used that angled brush to add a little light gray PP an either side of the doors. Lastly I used a color gray, black, reddish brown and brown Prismacolor pencils to weather some side boards and the running board. When I was using a pencil to add boot scuffs behind the side ladders I chipped off a bit of paint. One of my main complaints of F&C kits is poor paint adhesion. This time I soaked the model in “Shout” as they recommend and before painting I doused it with a wash of alcohol, but didn’t help much behind the ladders I guess?  Probably took a half hour to do the weathering. Mainly because I didn’t care to watch the TV show my wife had on  ;  ))
Clark Propst
Viewing the photos I see the brake step isn't setting properly. I'll see if I can correct that? Sometimes the camera's your best modeling tool...


Re: MTC 71979

Schleigh Mike
 

Nice job on this interesting twist on the B&M XM-1 fleet, Clark----

You might like to know that the road number you chose, 71979, was scrapped at the end of February, 1956, well past your modeling time.  Back then the MTC cars went everywhere the BM labelled cars would go and, interestingly, for most of their operation, the "MTC" distinction was not to be found in the ORER listings.

Regards to all----from Grove City, Penna.----Mike Schleigh

On Wednesday, June 9, 2021, 11:35:21 AM EDT, Clark Propst via groups.io <cepropst@...> wrote:


On the 8th I finished assembling a F&C kit of a B&M XM-1 box car. I really enjoy these ‘old school’ kits...No etched parts! Car slapped together quickly in three settings. Just painted it with tru-color, so decals later today I hope. Model is primed with Tamiya gray. I’m thinking of decaling it for subsidiary MTC to be different...My wife always says I different anyway...  I didn’t read the instructions, but the only deviation was to replace the sill steps provided with A-Line “Style A” and of course that crappy green floral wire with Tichy .015” wire for brake piping and rods. Oh, and a piece of jewelry chain. My wife once asked me if I could get a knot out of a necklace, Of course I couldn’t, knowing It would work for brake chain  ;  ))
On the morning of the 9th I painted this model’s body with Tru-color Rich Oxide Red I used their grimy black on the separate underframe. Later that morning I decaled one side. That afternoon I decaled the other, I always have to chuckle because first side takes three times as long to decal as the second. After supper I airbrushed the underframe with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner. On the body I first sprayed on a mix on thinned Dullcote with some Testers ‘little square bottle’ brown as a tint. Next I tried to just spray the wood sections of the sides with a Dullcote mix with an off white as a tint. All a short wait I weathered by applying Raw Umber Pan Pastel to the underframe before and after adding the trucks which were also dullcoted when I did the underframe. I also used that Pan Pastel color along the bottom of the sides and for wheel splash on the ends. Next was a light application of PP black to the roof and ends applied with the same soft round cosmetic brush used in the underframe. The wheel splash on the ends and for applying black on the exposed tops of the sides (what the roof didn’t cover) I used a thin angled brush. I also used that angled brush to add a little light gray PP an either side of the doors. Lastly I used a color gray, black, reddish brown and brown Prismacolor pencils to weather some side boards and the running board. When I was using a pencil to add boot scuffs behind the side ladders I chipped off a bit of paint. One of my main complaints of F&C kits is poor paint adhesion. This time I soaked the model in “Shout” as they recommend and before painting I doused it with a wash of alcohol, but didn’t help much behind the ladders I guess?  Probably took a half hour to do the weathering. Mainly because I didn’t care to watch the TV show my wife had on  ;  ))
Clark Propst
Viewing the photos I see the brake step isn't setting properly. I'll see if I can correct that? Sometimes the camera's your best modeling tool...


Article UP Livestock Car 43009 (S-40-16)

Bob Chaparro
 

Article UP Livestock Car 43009 (S-40-16)

An article and photo from the Pacific Southwest Railway Museum Association:

https://www.psrm.org/trains/freight/up-43009/

A tri-level hog car, one of 270 cars (Series 3000-43269) in the S-40-16 class.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railway Bull Shippers Group

https://groups.io/g/RailwayBullShippersGroup


Re: MTC 71979

Bob Chaparro
 

Nice work.
Any history on the prototype?
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Photo: Cudahy/Rex Reefer 3927

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: Cudahy/Rex Reefer 3927

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uDcAAOSwup1bxNjg/s-l1600.jpg

From an advertisement by Western Steel Car & Foundry Company:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Ai0AAOSwredbxNju/s-l1600.jpg

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railway Bull Shippers Group

https://groups.io/g/RailwayBullShippersGroup


Re: MTC 71979

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Remarkable result, Clark.  Excellent looking model.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Clark Propst via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2021 11:35 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] MTC 71979

 

On the 8th I finished assembling a F&C kit of a B&M XM-1 box car. I really enjoy these ‘old school’ kits...No etched parts! Car slapped together quickly in three settings. Just painted it with tru-color, so decals later today I hope. Model is primed with Tamiya gray. I’m thinking of decaling it for subsidiary MTC to be different...My wife always says I different anyway...  I didn’t read the instructions, but the only deviation was to replace the sill steps provided with A-Line “Style A” and of course that crappy green floral wire with Tichy .015” wire for brake piping and rods. Oh, and a piece of jewelry chain. My wife once asked me if I could get a knot out of a necklace, Of course I couldn’t, knowing It would work for brake chain  ;  ))

On the morning of the 9th I painted this model’s body with Tru-color Rich Oxide Red I used their grimy black on the separate underframe. Later that morning I decaled one side. That afternoon I decaled the other, I always have to chuckle because first side takes three times as long to decal as the second. After supper I airbrushed the underframe with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner. On the body I first sprayed on a mix on thinned Dullcote with some Testers ‘little square bottle’ brown as a tint. Next I tried to just spray the wood sections of the sides with a Dullcote mix with an off white as a tint. All a short wait I weathered by applying Raw Umber Pan Pastel to the underframe before and after adding the trucks which were also dullcoted when I did the underframe. I also used that Pan Pastel color along the bottom of the sides and for wheel splash on the ends. Next was a light application of PP black to the roof and ends applied with the same soft round cosmetic brush used in the underframe. The wheel splash on the ends and for applying black on the exposed tops of the sides (what the roof didn’t cover) I used a thin angled brush. I also used that angled brush to add a little light gray PP an either side of the doors. Lastly I used a color gray, black, reddish brown and brown Prismacolor pencils to weather some side boards and the running board. When I was using a pencil to add boot scuffs behind the side ladders I chipped off a bit of paint. One of my main complaints of F&C kits is poor paint adhesion. This time I soaked the model in “Shout” as they recommend and before painting I doused it with a wash of alcohol, but didn’t help much behind the ladders I guess?  Probably took a half hour to do the weathering. Mainly because I didn’t care to watch the TV show my wife had on  ;  ))
Clark Propst
Viewing the photos I see the brake step isn't setting properly. I'll see if I can correct that? Sometimes the camera's your best modeling tool...

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