Date   

Re: C&O 50 ft DD 28500 series question

Tim O'Connor
 


Was it asphaltum, or were the seam caps enameled? I ask because asphaltum would tend
to slough off the caps, just as it does from the roof panels, but I have not seen it.

Tim O'Connor



On 8/27/2021 10:37 PM, Brian Carlson via groups.io wrote:
Does anyone know if the Chesapeake and Ohio 50 foot double door box cars in the 28,500 series had asphaltum covering the same caps? Some Erie and nickel plate box cars of the same vintage had black seam caps and since all were still under AMC in 1955 I’m curious if the C&O cars also had asphaltumon the seam caps

Brian J. Carlson 

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Boxcar Brake Wheel Location

Tim O'Connor
 


In 1966 we see this Algoma Central #3192 still has its vertical hand brake staff. These cars went all over
the place. My Dad photographed another one in Pueblo CO in 1967.

Tim O'Connor

On 8/28/2021 1:34 AM, Tony Thompson wrote:

If not regulated, did the location get changed by the car owners over the years or did they retain the earlier configuration for the life of the car?

Yes.
Tony Thompson 

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Speedwitch SP A-50-4 finished

Paul Doggett
 

Charlie thank you.
Paul 


On 28 Aug 2021, at 11:46, Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:

Paul
I can highly recommend the National Scale Car decals for the Virginian BX-10. http://nationalscalecar.com/product/d215-virginian-1916-built-single-sheathed-box-car/
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Speedwitch SP A-50-4 finished

Charlie Duckworth
 

Paul
I can highly recommend the National Scale Car decals for the Virginian BX-10. http://nationalscalecar.com/product/d215-virginian-1916-built-single-sheathed-box-car/
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Speedwitch SP A-50-4 finished

Paul Doggett
 

Charlie 

That A50-4 looks great.
After seeing your great model of the F&C Virginian car I have managed to pick a kit up.

Paul Doggett.   England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 


On 27 Aug 2021, at 23:41, Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:



Appreciate the input while I was building the A-50-4. Here’s the model next to the Virginian BX-10 just to illustrate the differences in heights of the various cars in the steam era.  I played around again with painting an unpainted roof walk on this one  


<DF91D32B-35EC-4FA1-991B-772FB93B6783.jpeg>
<E39265AA-1AFC-4BB3-94F4-4936F2776122.jpeg>

--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


UPDATE: 16 Sunshine Models Kits FS

golden1014
 

Thanks for your patience and this'll be the last post on the Sunshine kits sale.  Here's an update:

Only two cars left:

  • Kit 91.13, L&N XM-1 (this is a 1923 ARA box car) - Price Reduced to $50 + $5 shipping.
  • Kit  91.17 GA RR XM-1 w/Murphy Roof and End (this is a 1923 ARA box car) - Price Reduced to $50 + $5 shipping.
The owner is very grateful for your interest!
John Golden


Re: Boxcar Brake Wheel Location

Tony Thompson
 

If not regulated, did the location get changed by the car owners over the years or did they retain the earlier configuration for the life of the car?
Yes.
Tony Thompson


Boxcar Brake Wheel Location

Allen Cain
 

When would the brake wheel on boxcars and reefers have been changed from a vertical shaft with the brake wheel located above the roof to the horizontal shaft with the brake wheel located on the end of the car at the top?

Was there a rule prohibiting the earlier version in interchange service and if so, when was the cut off date.

If not regulated, did the location get changed by the car owners over the years or did they retain the earlier configuration for the life of the car?
--
Allen Cain
Modeling the Southern in 1955 in HO Scale


Re: questions regarding ACF Carbon Black Hopper

John Mateyko
 


Weaver three rail covered hopper.  For Sale, with three rail trucks or without trucks.  John Mateyko


C&O 50 ft DD 28500 series question

Brian Carlson
 

Does anyone know if the Chesapeake and Ohio 50 foot double door box cars in the 28,500 series had asphaltum covering the same caps? Some Erie and nickel plate box cars of the same vintage had black seam caps and since all were still under AMC in 1955 I’m curious if the C&O cars also had asphaltumon the seam caps

Brian J. Carlson


Re: Speedwitch SP A-50-4 finished

Charlie Duckworth
 

Jim
I purposely left off the white stripes off the doors that denote auto rack service and will have the car running on the layout as a load of lumber into a small lumber yard.  One of the SP modelers will have to provide answers to your questions about the car in auto parts service. 
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Speedwitch SP A-50-4 finished

Jim Betz
 

Hi all,

  Charlie's -excellent- model of the A-50-4 prompts me to ask the question ...

  Were these cars used for other products for the 'back haul'?  If so what products
and under what circumstances/eras?  Specific to this car ... what direction was it
used in automobile service (from/to)?
                                                                                                                 - Jim


Re: Speedwitch SP A-50-4 finished

Tony Thompson
 

Awfully nice Class A-50-4, Charlie. I like it a lot.

Tony Thompson
tony@signaturepress.com


Re: replacement for Ambroid cement

Tony Thompson
 

ed mines 

What replacements are you using for the old go to Ambroid cement?

Anyone use canopy glue for bonding metal to wood? White glue for this application? How about white glue juiced up with some other adhesive? If so, what brand?

I have found canopy glue to be really excellent for dissimilar materials — plastic to wood, metal to plastic, in fact any combinations of hard and porous surfaces. Despite what some say, it is most certainly NOT Kristal Klear. That’s easy to prove — make up a joint of two dissimilar materials with KK and canopy glue, let them set for a few hours, and pull them apart.  Canopy glue is quite strong.

Pacer is one maker of canopy glue, with several individual brands. One of them Is Zap.

Tony Thompson



Re: replacement for Ambroid cement

Jim Betz
 

Ed,
  Gorilla glue is excellent - I do not know if it forms a "fillet" in a corner ... without
putting it on the surfaces between the parts being joined.  I think of Gorilla as a
"high tech contact cement".
  Krystal Klear works well, forms a fillet (with or without being between the parts,
dries clear, is sandable and paintable ... and has a very long drying time.  It
will -not- hold parts together without assistance before it is dry.  KK can also be
used for forming glazing which is what it is sold for ... I rarely use it for that 
although it is excellent for headlight lenses (over SMD LEDs) and for places
windows where there is a lot of thickness such as a shake-the-box caboose.
KK is essentially pre-thinned out white glue and you can use white glue instead.
I like the fact that you can wet KK and it will soften and you can take stuff apart.
That is -not- possible with carpenter's glue.  KK is 'identical' to canopy cement.
  I often use "some form of caulk" such as DAP Easy/Ultra - especially useful
for different types of surfaces.  Like KK it needs 'clamping' until it has set up.
It has a shorter drying time than KK but is still quite long. 
  I prefer to not use CA - either thin or thick ... but always have some of it for
repairs to parts where I want it to wick into a joint.  CA crazes any glazing
other than glass and I do not like the way it 'flows away from the joint itself'.
  I've switched from Tenax (no longer available) to Tamiya for styrene.
  I never did try any adhesive you have to refridgerate - just too much fuss.

  Rubber bands often make excellent clamps.  I also like the "magnetic board"
systems for structures and car bodies.  Anytime I can I like to "put the model
together" (clamp/hold) and then apply adhesive to the seam.
                                                                                                                - Jim


Current form of Future Floor Wax Suitable for Decal Work

Andy Carlson
 

This is a resend, as I got a bounce-back note from the 1st sending.
-Andy
I am reminded something from my early days of being online. One of the many controversies were anti-Future trolls who had their trump cards in dismissing Future by claiming it turns yellow. I remember a few equaled the looks to urine.

Future when dry has a clear coat. Even a "yellowed" bottle's clear finish will still be clear. Maybe a comparison to window glass plate can shed a little light about tinting colors. An otherwise super clear plate glass, when viewed in its intended use, looks almost opaque when viewed from its edge. There is quite a bit of coloration in even "clear" glass. When viewed through the edges one could probably concur that the glass is certainly not clear at all if no view through the flat viewing portion of the plate were made.

The thickness of a Future clear coat is in the thousants, sometimes even less than a 0.001". At this thickness (or lack of) the amounts of colorant becomes insignificant. I once made a test of an older bottle of Future which had quite a yellowish glow and made a thin coating on a painted and decaled surface. I repeated this experiment with Future from a clear, freshly new bottle. The decals from both tests appeared equal to each other and I could not tell the difference if I did not know from the start which was which.

So maybe tossing out a yellowed bottle of Future (what ever name it is blessed with at the time) is unnecessary.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

On Friday, August 27, 2021, 04:05:11 PM PDT, gtws00 wrote:


I stored my Future in a cabinet in my workshop and it is always around 70 degrees or so in there. It must be a chemical reaction. 

George Toman

_._,_._,_


Re: Speedwitch SP A-50-4 finished

gtws00
 

Really Nice!
Well done
George Toman


Re: Current form of Future Floor Wax Suitable for Decal Work

gtws00
 

I stored my Future in a cabinet in my workshop and it is always around 70 degrees or so in there. It must be a chemical reaction. 

George Toman


Re: replacement for Ambroid cement

Ken Vandevoort
 

I use Beacon 527 for wood or metal or joining wood to metal.  I also use it to glue weights to plastic.  It is in the craft department at Walmart.  The 527 reminds me of Duco.

A very strong wood to wood glue is Sig-Bond.  It is made for flying model airplanes.  If it can hold up in the air, it should on the rails.

Ken Vandevoort


Re: Speedwitch SP A-50-4 finished

O Fenton Wells
 

Boy Charlie that’s a gem
Fenton 


On Aug 27, 2021, at 6:41 PM, Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:



Appreciate the input while I was building the A-50-4. Here’s the model next to the Virginian BX-10 just to illustrate the differences in heights of the various cars in the steam era.  I played around again with painting an unpainted roof walk on this one  


<DF91D32B-35EC-4FA1-991B-772FB93B6783.jpeg>
<E39265AA-1AFC-4BB3-94F4-4936F2776122.jpeg>

--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.

1821 - 1840 of 188648