Date   

Re: Photo: Burlington Rendering Co. Reefer CDRX 120

Douglas Harding
 

Packing house by products were used in making animal feed. Dog food is a good example, Strong Heart brand dog food was owned by the Morrell meat packing company. The mad cow disease scare of a few years ago was because of packing house by products being used in cattle feed. The disease was spread through the byproducts.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Horton Monroe
Sent: Saturday, October 9, 2021 12:12 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Photo: Burlington Rendering Co. Reefer CDRX 120

 

I'm kinda interested in what the phrase "Meat Scraps for Poultry" means...

Horton Monroe
Old Hickory, TN


Re: Photo: Burlington Rendering Co. Reefer CDRX 120

Dave Parker
 

It means what it seems to mean:  meat scraps for use in poultry feed. 

A few minutes with Google indicates that the practice is now frowned upon or even illegal in some countries (e.g. Australia).  But in the US, it is probably regulated at the state or local level, if at all.

Back in the era of this reefer, however, I suspect the practice was rather widespread.  Here's a little bit about it from 1921:

https://books.google.com/books?id=CAlIAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA75&lpg=PA75&dq=meat+scraps+as+poultry+feed+in+the+u.s.+today&source=bl&ots=KkgBj6dmVE&sig=ACfU3U1TvsOVCZy80bVhiklN16tNrxhgcA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiJu5-A7b3zAhWEFzQIHQELBpYQ6AF6BAgxEAM#v=onepage&q=meat%20scraps%20as%20poultry%20feed%20in%20the%20u.s.%20today&f=false
--
Dave Parker
Swall Meadows, CA


Re: Photo: Burlington Rendering Co. Reefer CDRX 120

Horton Monroe
 

I'm kinda interested in what the phrase "Meat Scraps for Poultry" means...

Horton Monroe
Old Hickory, TN


Re: more glue questions

Nolan Hinshaw
 

On Oct 8, 2021, at 16:08, ed_mines via groups.io <ed_mines=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I always thought Barge cement was a "new & improved" form of Walthers goo.
Does it form filaments like goo does?
As far as I know, barge cement predated Walthers, even Uncle Bill himself.
--
Artie the Hinged Jaw
Retired AFU Game Warden


Re: more glue questions/Barge cement

Tim O'Connor
 

Todd

It can be done but it's not recommended! Undried contact cement can attack the underlying material and
lead to joint failure or worse. People who fail to read the instructions for Goo often complain of the problems
they have with it.  😂

Hobby size corner brackets can hold items at a perfect 90 degree angle while the adhesive sets. I also use
small machinist squares (Micromark I think) for a quick 90 degree setup with CA.

On 10/9/2021 10:42 AM, Todd Sullivan via groups.io wrote:
Bud,

If you apply Barge to the two surfaces to be joined, let it dry, then press the two parts together, the joint will be very strong, but you have to get placement of the parts aligned correctly the first time, there's no second chance.

I have also applied Barge and then pressed the parts together.  It takes maybe 20 minutes for the joint to become strong.  I do this when assembling resin carbodies together, as I want some time to be able to align things properly, such as a roof on a body.  I used the Barge sparingly, then go back and apply CA along the joint once the parts are correctly lined up.

Todd Sullivan
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: more glue questions/Barge cement

Tim O'Connor
 

All volatile contact cements including Goo --

apply to both parts. allow to dry to the touch (almost no tackiness). press together with force.
after a minute or so, forcible separation will result in destruction of the item. if the glued area is
small, you can 'unglue' (within a very short time period) by application of MEK with a brush

I learned about this from Jack Spencer who used contact cement to attach his sill steps which he
fabricated from MYLAR sheet!  (thin, strong, flexible). He also made Mylar overlays for some
offset hopper cars he did, because the material could hold rivet impressions, is as thin as paper,
and could be glued with contact cement.

Tim O'Connor

On 10/9/2021 9:37 AM, Bud Rindfleisch wrote:
Todd,
    Can the Barge be used other than as a contact cement? How about set time if used that way?
     Thanks,
      Bud Rindfleisch
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: more glue questions/Barge cement

Todd Sullivan
 

Bud,

If you apply Barge to the two surfaces to be joined, let it dry, then press the two parts together, the joint will be very strong, but you have to get placement of the parts aligned correctly the first time, there's no second chance. 

I have also applied Barge and then pressed the parts together.  It takes maybe 20 minutes for the joint to become strong.  I do this when assembling resin carbodies together, as I want some time to be able to align things properly, such as a roof on a body.  I used the Barge sparingly, then go back and apply CA along the joint once the parts are correctly lined up.

Todd Sullivan


Re: Photo: Burlington Rendering Co. Reefer CDRX 120

Eric Hansmann
 

This car wears an East Rochester (E.R.) weigh location and 7-30 weigh date. Below that line is a built date of 9-05. 

Interesting to see a 42,000 pound capacity. And check out those classic arch bar trucks. 


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Oct 8, 2021, at 8:33 PM, Bob Chaparro via groups.io <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Photo: Burlington Rendering Co. Reefer CDRX 120

Photo courtesy of the New York Central System Historical Society:

https://nycshs.omeka.net/items/show/130291

CDRX reporting mark assigned to Consolidated Rendering Co./Burlington Rendering Co.

Company based in Vermont.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railway Bull Shippers Group

https://groups.io/g/RailwayBullShippersGroup


Re: more glue questions/Barge cement

Bud Rindfleisch
 

Todd,
    Can the Barge be used other than as a contact cement? How about set time if used that way?
     Thanks,
      Bud Rindfleisch


Re: Photo: H.P. Smith Paper Co. Reefer HPSX 100

Dave Parker
 

Why guess, when in the time it takes to type "invention of wax paper milk carton" plus about 10 seconds you have the answer?

(Hint:  it was wayyyy before 1940)

--
Dave Parker
Swall Meadows, CA


Re: Photo: H.P. Smith Paper Co. Reefer HPSX 100

Philip Dove
 

I think the first waxed paper cartons for milk were made in the 1940s, invented by a dairy company in Sweden. Or were they just the inventors ofa new filling  process? They filled the cartons while they were one long tube, and sealed both ends afterwards! 
The reefer looks pre 1940s. Perhaps the reefer was part of the billboard reefer racket where just running refers was somehow profitable 


Photo: Burlington Rendering Co. Reefer CDRX 120

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: Burlington Rendering Co. Reefer CDRX 120

Photo courtesy of the New York Central System Historical Society:

https://nycshs.omeka.net/items/show/130291

CDRX reporting mark assigned to Consolidated Rendering Co./Burlington Rendering Co.

Company based in Vermont.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railway Bull Shippers Group

https://groups.io/g/RailwayBullShippersGroup


Photo: Associated Packers Inc. Meat Reefer APAX 117 (Undated)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: Associated Packers Inc. Meat Reefer APAX 117 (Undated)

Photo courtesy of the New York Central System Historical Society:

https://nycshs.omeka.net/items/show/130254

Chef brand poultry.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railway Bull Shippers Group

https://groups.io/g/RailwayBullShippersGroup


Re: Using hoarded parts

Tim O'Connor
 


Just one color? :-P

On 10/8/2021 5:10 PM, Clark Propst via groups.io wrote:
I have no memory of this model other than it was in my kit drawer. No Idea where it came from? It is a Intermountain PS-1 decorated for Milwaukee. The previous owner started building the kit, but stopped after whatever he was using for glue sucked/melted the bolster taps into the bolsters...Much of the plastic brake rigging was broken off too. I know just enough about PS-1s to be dangerous. At first I was going to make it a CGW 93000 series. These were some of the first PS-1s so there were changes needing to be made. I looked at the PS-1 list put together by Ed Hawkins and saw the KCS had some early cars too. Like any freight car modeler worth his salt I’m a parts hoarder. I happen to have a new center sill/bolster combo I ‘think’ is Branchline? I did use Branchline brake rigging, but had to shorten the long rods...snip, snip. I cut off the bolster tabs and replaced them with leftovers from a Yarmouth ATSF kit. I also shorten the cross member tabs too. One of the uncoupling lever brackets was broken off, used a couple scraps of styrene to fabricate a new one. I used Tangent eye bolts and will use their lever too. I only found a side view in an old RMJ. The corners were clean, no tabs and therefore required a couple different A-Line sill steps. There were three parts sprues in the box, thank goodness...I used side ladders on the ends as well, the inside stile was straight on these early cars. I made the bracket grab on the end by snipping the end off one and turning the cut bracket 90 degrees and gluing the parts back together on the model. The end sill grab is a Tichy wire one. Yarmouth placards were used on the ends, Tangent route car and placards boards were used on the doors. Not sure about the doors? They may have come in the kit? At least they fit either way. I’m out of Kato ASF ride control trucks, so am using MDC Fox trucks as shop trucks. Not seen in this photo is the roof. The sides bowed out in the middle so I added a couple bulkheads before gluing on a Tangent early PS-1 roof which I had to scrape off the plastic inside perimeter. I ‘plan’ to use a my ‘standard’ Kadee running board. I might take one more photo before painting. In the small b/w photo the entire car appears to be freight car color? Unless I hear otherwise I’ll paint it all one color, but not till next week. Busy weekend coming up...
Clark Propst

_

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: more glue questions

Tim O'Connor
 


As I mentioned before, adding MEK to barge cement will eliminate the strings and allow the use of
a 'paint brush'. I use a very cheap disposable - but cleanable - brush to apply the cement. The strings
only reappear if you take too much time and the MEK evaporates. But generally it's not a problem.

Tim O'Connor


On 10/8/2021 8:20 PM, Todd Sullivan via groups.io wrote:
Yes, becaue that is the nature and characteristics of petro-based contact cements.  However, I have found that Barge Cement is less prone to 'string'.  I usually use a toothpick to apply the cement by gathering some on the toothpick, then rolling the toothpick to gather up any strings, then applying it to the part(s) to be cemented.  That has worked pretty well for me, and the bond seems to be stronger than GOO.

Todd Sullivan
_._,_._,_


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: more glue questions

Todd Sullivan
 

Yes, becaue that is the nature and characteristics of petro-based contact cements.  However, I have found that Barge Cement is less prone to 'string'.  I usually use a toothpick to apply the cement by gathering some on the toothpick, then rolling the toothpick to gather up any strings, then applying it to the part(s) to be cemented.  That has worked pretty well for me, and the bond seems to be stronger than GOO.

Todd Sullivan


Re: more glue questions

ed_mines
 

I always thought Barge cement was a "new & improved" form of Walthers goo.
Does it form filaments like goo does?


Re: more glue questions

ed_mines
 

indeed!


Subject: Westside Model ATSF No. 3013 2-10-2

Schleigh Mike
 

Hello Groups!

 

A friend has the subject HO model as surplus in his collection.  If you are a Santa Fe steam era modeler and need something to pull your freight cars, you might consider calling Nick D’Amore at 412-358-0286 to be first in line to claim this model.  You will find his asking price reasonable so don’t delay.

Nick will respond in the order of messages left on his phone and email.

Email is [njdamore@...].  Do not correspond with me.


Regards from Mike Schleigh in leafy Grove City, Penna.


Re: Using hoarded parts

 

Sow’s ear into a silk purse?

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Clark Propst via groups.io" <cepropst@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Friday, October 8, 2021 at 4:10 PM
To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Using hoarded parts

 

I have no memory of this model other than it was in my kit drawer. No Idea where it came from? It is a Intermountain PS-1 decorated for Milwaukee. The previous owner started building the kit, but stopped after whatever he was using for glue sucked/melted the bolster taps into the bolsters...Much of the plastic brake rigging was broken off too. I know just enough about PS-1s to be dangerous. At first I was going to make it a CGW 93000 series. These were some of the first PS-1s so there were changes needing to be made. I looked at the PS-1 list put together by Ed Hawkins and saw the KCS had some early cars too. Like any freight car modeler worth his salt I’m a parts hoarder. I happen to have a new center sill/bolster combo I ‘think’ is Branchline? I did use Branchline brake rigging, but had to shorten the long rods...snip, snip. I cut off the bolster tabs and replaced them with leftovers from a Yarmouth ATSF kit. I also shorten the cross member tabs too. One of the uncoupling lever brackets was broken off, used a couple scraps of styrene to fabricate a new one. I used Tangent eye bolts and will use their lever too. I only found a side view in an old RMJ. The corners were clean, no tabs and therefore required a couple different A-Line sill steps. There were three parts sprues in the box, thank goodness...I used side ladders on the ends as well, the inside stile was straight on these early cars. I made the bracket grab on the end by snipping the end off one and turning the cut bracket 90 degrees and gluing the parts back together on the model. The end sill grab is a Tichy wire one. Yarmouth placards were used on the ends, Tangent route car and placards boards were used on the doors. Not sure about the doors? They may have come in the kit? At least they fit either way. I’m out of Kato ASF ride control trucks, so am using MDC Fox trucks as shop trucks. Not seen in this photo is the roof. The sides bowed out in the middle so I added a couple bulkheads before gluing on a Tangent early PS-1 roof which I had to scrape off the plastic inside perimeter. I ‘plan’ to use a my ‘standard’ Kadee running board. I might take one more photo before painting. In the small b/w photo the entire car appears to be freight car color? Unless I hear otherwise I’ll paint it all one color, but not till next week. Busy weekend coming up...

Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

 

 

 

 

 

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