Yellow is the old.  I bought a quart of it on the internet about 10 years ago for adhering track to CVMW tie strips.  Had tried the “new” and it did not work for that purpose when I added MEK.  I think shoe repair shops can still get the old formula if there are any in your area.  Another disappearing industry.

Gary Ray

Weatherford, TX

Or at least Disney!   :>)

Steve Hile

Just think how much more difficult HO prototype modeling would be if we had high resolution photos for everything.

I see you’re a Lewis Carroll affection ado.

Nelson Moyer

If you zoom in on the NP boxcar end that Eric posted, it appears that the shaft is square from the lever end down to near the lowest ladder rung, where it seems to transition to a round rod that threads into the short segment of pipe that is attached via whatever yoke shape to the brake chain.

Curiouser and curiouser.

Steve Hile

The chain is attached to a U-bolt casting with eyes on both ends that is in turn bolted to the square shaft. I see that on CB&Q single sheathed boxcars. That’s too small to model in HO scale, so I insert the brake staff through the last link in the brake chain. I’ve seen modelers use a wire ring around the brake shaft with the chain attached to the ring.

Nelson Moyer

Interestingly, it appears that the brake chain attaches to the shaft with some sort of yoke (half of a turnbuckle for extreme modelers! :>) )

Steve Hile

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer

Just think how much more difficult HO prototype modeling would be if we had high resolution photos for everything.

I see you’re a Lewis Carroll affection ado.

Nelson Moyer

If you zoom in on the NP boxcar end that Eric posted, it appears that the shaft is square from the lever end down to near the lowest ladder rung, where it seems to transition to a round rod that threads into the short segment of pipe that is attached via whatever yoke shape to the brake chain.

Curiouser and curiouser.

Steve Hile

If you zoom in on the NP boxcar end that Eric posted, it appears that the shaft is square from the lever end down to near the lowest ladder rung, where it seems to transition to a round rod that threads into the short segment of pipe that is attached via whatever yoke shape to the brake chain.

Curiouser and curiouser.

Steve Hile

The chain is attached to a U-bolt casting with eyes on both ends that is in turn bolted to the square shaft. I see that on CB&Q single sheathed boxcars. That’s too small to model in HO scale, so I insert the brake staff through the last link in the brake chain. I’ve seen modelers use a wire ring around the brake shaft with the chain attached to the ring.

Nelson Moyer

Interestingly, it appears that the brake chain attaches to the shaft with some sort of yoke (half of a turnbuckle for extreme modelers! :>) )

Steve Hile

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer

Interestingly, it appears that the brake chain attaches to the shaft with some sort of yoke (half of a turnbuckle for extreme modelers! :>) )

Steve Hile

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

Nelson Moyer

One more shot before painting, which I've done. The yellow resin box car in the background is one I bought at Caboose Stop Hobbies last Wednesday. I picked up the Ribside at a swap meet yesterday for $5. Plan to detail the underside a bit and renumber. The previous owner kind of botched his renumbering attempt. The M&StL car was a gift from John Golden. It needed some minor repairs and renumbering - I had the same number...
Clark

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A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer

Hi,

For years now I have drilled 2 small (1/8^th inch or so) holes in the bottom of any boxcar, reefer or tank car to let anything vent out.

From my British modelling days 30 years ago I have a bogie open wagon (aka a gondola) plastic kit that had its lead weights glued on the bottom with contact adhesive (Evo-Stick) which now has a banana shaped floor, even though it was completely in the open and not sealed shut.

These days I’m a fan of using canopy glue to hold weights in place, it’s just slow to set.

Stan Agar in NZ