Date   

Photos: Meyer Kornblum Reefers MKPX 244 and MKPX 119

Bob Chaparro
 

Photos: Meyer Kornblum Reefers MKPX 244 and MKPX 119

Photos courtesy of the New York Central System Historical Society:

https://nycshs.omeka.net/items/show/130316

https://nycshs.omeka.net/items/show/130317

MKPX reporting mark assigned to Meyer Kornblum Refrigerator Car Company and Merchants Despatch, Inc. This same reporting mark later was assigned to the Campbell Soup Co./Central Division.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railway Bull Shippers Group

https://groups.io/g/RailwayBullShippersGroup


Re: more glue questions

Steve SANDIFER
 

This is the one I have used.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Gary Ray
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2021 8:39 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] more glue questions

 

Yellow is the old.  I bought a quart of it on the internet about 10 years ago for adhering track to CVMW tie strips.  Had tried the “new” and it did not work for that purpose when I added MEK.  I think shoe repair shops can still get the old formula if there are any in your area.  Another disappearing industry.

Gary Ray

Weatherford, TX

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Ralph W. Brown
Sent: Saturday, October 9, 2021 6:56 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] more glue questions

 

Hi Eric,

 

What is the difference between the old and the new Barge cement?

 

Thanks,

 

 

Ralph Brown
Portland, Maine
PRRT&HS No. 3966
NMRA No. L2532

rbrown51[at]maine[dot]rr[dot]com

 

From: Eric Hansmann

Sent: Saturday, October 9, 2021 7:51 PM

Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] more glue questions

 

New Barge is in a blue tube. I’ve bought them at Hobby Lobby. Look in the leather working area. The latest tube came from a local shoe repair shop. 

 

Old Barge was in a yellow tube.

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN


On Oct 9, 2021, at 6:36 PM, Charles Peck <lnnrr152@...> wrote:

I have forgotten which color is the new Barge cement and which is the old. 

Chuck Peck


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Nelson Moyer
 

Wow, did my spell checker mess that up.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 3:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Or at least Disney!   :>)

 

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 3:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Just think how much more difficult HO prototype modeling would be if we had high resolution photos for everything.

 

I see you’re a Lewis Carroll affection ado.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 3:07 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

If you zoom in on the NP boxcar end that Eric posted, it appears that the shaft is square from the lever end down to near the lowest ladder rung, where it seems to transition to a round rod that threads into the short segment of pipe that is attached via whatever yoke shape to the brake chain.

 

Curiouser and curiouser.

 

Steve Hile

 


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Steve SANDIFER
 

Here are a couple from my collection.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 1:33 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

The chain is attached to a U-bolt casting with eyes on both ends that is in turn bolted to the square shaft. I see that on CB&Q single sheathed boxcars. That’s too small to model in HO scale, so I insert the brake staff through the last link in the brake chain. I’ve seen modelers use a wire ring around the brake shaft with the chain attached to the ring.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 12:29 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Interestingly, it appears that the brake chain attaches to the shaft with some sort of yoke (half of a turnbuckle for extreme modelers! :>) )

 

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Eric Hansmann
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 11:38 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Nelson,

 

I've tried to use the A-Line sill steps but had difficulty drilling the brake staff hole. I find the thinner etched metal fret material easier to drill, plus it's a bit wider than the sill steps. Here's an end view of the B&O M-26b boxcars I recently wrapped up. I used the leftover fret material for the brake staff support on both models. Click on the image for a slightly larger view.

 

Here's a three-quarter view before paint application.

 

BTW, attached is an end view of NP 11348 for your archives and to follow closer to the topic. This came from the AC&F collection on the Barriger Library Flickr site.

 

 

Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer


PRR Virtual evening

Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

 

The PRR T&HS is planning a virtual PRR evening on November 20, 2021, 7:00pm-9:00pm (Eastern Daylight Savings Time) , through Zoom.

Thanks to Auburn University, we will be able to host presentations on the history of the PRR and modeling the PRR by experienced speakers.

There is no registration fee, but you will need to register in advance, since participation will be limited to 300. Registration is open now - go to: https://auburn.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZwkfumoqDIiH9PuEMxa1huYGKRJQa8_9T1Y

 

     In order to have a virtual meeting of a very large group, we ask everyone to abide by the following ground rules:

  1. Please remain in ‘mute’ mode throughout. The microphones on devices are adept at picking up background noise which will hinder the presentation’s audibility. The mute button is typically in the lower left of the screen.
  2. No oral interruptions during the 40-minute presentations.
  3. A 10-minite question-answer time is reserved after each presentation.
  4. Type your questions to the chat window, which is enabled by a button at the bottom of the screen. For each presentation, a host will monitor the chat window and present questions to the speaker in the order received.
  5. Please do not share the zoom information with anyone after registering.

 

     The presentations are:

  • The PRR System Locomotive Photography of James H. Dean, 1909-1937 by Gary Rauch
  • Modeling PRR Steam in the 1940’s by Matthew Hurst

 

Regards,

Bruce Smith
Auburn, Al


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Steve and Barb Hile
 

Or at least Disney!   :>)

 

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 3:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Just think how much more difficult HO prototype modeling would be if we had high resolution photos for everything.

 

I see you’re a Lewis Carroll affection ado.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 3:07 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

If you zoom in on the NP boxcar end that Eric posted, it appears that the shaft is square from the lever end down to near the lowest ladder rung, where it seems to transition to a round rod that threads into the short segment of pipe that is attached via whatever yoke shape to the brake chain.

 

Curiouser and curiouser.

 

Steve Hile

 


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Nelson Moyer
 

Just think how much more difficult HO prototype modeling would be if we had high resolution photos for everything.

 

I see you’re a Lewis Carroll affection ado.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 3:07 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

If you zoom in on the NP boxcar end that Eric posted, it appears that the shaft is square from the lever end down to near the lowest ladder rung, where it seems to transition to a round rod that threads into the short segment of pipe that is attached via whatever yoke shape to the brake chain.

 

Curiouser and curiouser.

 

Steve Hile

 


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Steve and Barb Hile
 

If you zoom in on the NP boxcar end that Eric posted, it appears that the shaft is square from the lever end down to near the lowest ladder rung, where it seems to transition to a round rod that threads into the short segment of pipe that is attached via whatever yoke shape to the brake chain.

 

Curiouser and curiouser.

 

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 1:33 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

The chain is attached to a U-bolt casting with eyes on both ends that is in turn bolted to the square shaft. I see that on CB&Q single sheathed boxcars. That’s too small to model in HO scale, so I insert the brake staff through the last link in the brake chain. I’ve seen modelers use a wire ring around the brake shaft with the chain attached to the ring.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 12:29 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Interestingly, it appears that the brake chain attaches to the shaft with some sort of yoke (half of a turnbuckle for extreme modelers! :>) )

 

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Eric Hansmann
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 11:38 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Nelson,

 

I've tried to use the A-Line sill steps but had difficulty drilling the brake staff hole. I find the thinner etched metal fret material easier to drill, plus it's a bit wider than the sill steps. Here's an end view of the B&O M-26b boxcars I recently wrapped up. I used the leftover fret material for the brake staff support on both models. Click on the image for a slightly larger view.

 

Here's a three-quarter view before paint application.

 

BTW, attached is an end view of NP 11348 for your archives and to follow closer to the topic. This came from the AC&F collection on the Barriger Library Flickr site.

 

 

Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer


20 Westerfield Caswell gon kits on Ebay, current price: $99

Dave Nelson
 

This auction seems pretty unusual so this is a last day heads up.  I don't know seller.



Nobody has yet bid on this lot.

Good luck!

Dave Nelson


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Nelson Moyer
 

The chain is attached to a U-bolt casting with eyes on both ends that is in turn bolted to the square shaft. I see that on CB&Q single sheathed boxcars. That’s too small to model in HO scale, so I insert the brake staff through the last link in the brake chain. I’ve seen modelers use a wire ring around the brake shaft with the chain attached to the ring.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 12:29 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Interestingly, it appears that the brake chain attaches to the shaft with some sort of yoke (half of a turnbuckle for extreme modelers! :>) )

 

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Eric Hansmann
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 11:38 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Nelson,

 

I've tried to use the A-Line sill steps but had difficulty drilling the brake staff hole. I find the thinner etched metal fret material easier to drill, plus it's a bit wider than the sill steps. Here's an end view of the B&O M-26b boxcars I recently wrapped up. I used the leftover fret material for the brake staff support on both models. Click on the image for a slightly larger view.

 

Here's a three-quarter view before paint application.

 

BTW, attached is an end view of NP 11348 for your archives and to follow closer to the topic. This came from the AC&F collection on the Barriger Library Flickr site.

 

 

Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Steve and Barb Hile
 

Interestingly, it appears that the brake chain attaches to the shaft with some sort of yoke (half of a turnbuckle for extreme modelers! :>) )

 

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Eric Hansmann
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 11:38 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Nelson,

 

I've tried to use the A-Line sill steps but had difficulty drilling the brake staff hole. I find the thinner etched metal fret material easier to drill, plus it's a bit wider than the sill steps. Here's an end view of the B&O M-26b boxcars I recently wrapped up. I used the leftover fret material for the brake staff support on both models. Click on the image for a slightly larger view.

 

Here's a three-quarter view before paint application.

 

BTW, attached is an end view of NP 11348 for your archives and to follow closer to the topic. This came from the AC&F collection on the Barriger Library Flickr site.

 

 

Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Nelson Moyer
 

I wasn’t suggesting using the A-Line sill steps for brake staff footings, just relating my experience with annealing to make them easier to bend. That came in very handy for the B&O wagon tops I’ve built, as those sill steps have a unique shape. It’s also good for sill steps with compound curves bending outward then down.

 

I use YMW 0.030 in. wide tank car strap for brake footings. It’s brass, easy to drill, and about the right size. Before that was available, I saved the strip brass in Westerfield kits for that purpose. I also use Precision Scale brake footings and occasionally left over Westerfield resin brake footings where they’re appropriate.

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eric Hansmann
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 11:38 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

 

Nelson,

 

I've tried to use the A-Line sill steps but had difficulty drilling the brake staff hole. I find the thinner etched metal fret material easier to drill, plus it's a bit wider than the sill steps. Here's an end view of the B&O M-26b boxcars I recently wrapped up. I used the leftover fret material for the brake staff support on both models. Click on the image for a slightly larger view.

 

Here's a three-quarter view before paint application.

 

BTW, attached is an end view of NP 11348 for your archives and to follow closer to the topic. This came from the AC&F collection on the Barriger Library Flickr site.

 

 

Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer


Re: more glue questions

Tony Thompson
 

From my British modelling days 30 years ago I have a bogie open wagon (aka a gondola) plastic kit that had its lead weights glued on the bottom with contact adhesive (Evo-Stick) which now has a banana shaped floor, even though it was completely in the open and not sealed shut.

These days I’m a fan of using canopy glue to hold weights in place, it’s just slow to set.
In my youth (not going to do the arithmetic right now), I glued the car weights into Athearn “Blue Box” cars with Goo. In 20 years or so, those floors too were “banana” or other peculiar shapes. Totally ruined, and in most cases distorting the rest of the car body too.

BTW, Full agreement about canopy glue. Excellent and versatile stuff.

Tony Thompson
tony@signaturepress.com


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

O Fenton Wells
 

Looking good Eric,
fenton

On Mon, Oct 11, 2021 at 12:38 PM Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:
Nelson,

I've tried to use the A-Line sill steps but had difficulty drilling the brake staff hole. I find the thinner etched metal fret material easier to drill, plus it's a bit wider than the sill steps. Here's an end view of the B&O M-26b boxcars I recently wrapped up. I used the leftover fret material for the brake staff support on both models. Click on the image for a slightly larger view.

Here's a three-quarter view before paint application.

BTW, attached is an end view of NP 11348 for your archives and to follow closer to the topic. This came from the AC&F collection on the Barriger Library Flickr site.


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN


On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:


A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.


Nelson Moyer



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Eric Hansmann
 

Nelson,

I've tried to use the A-Line sill steps but had difficulty drilling the brake staff hole. I find the thinner etched metal fret material easier to drill, plus it's a bit wider than the sill steps. Here's an end view of the B&O M-26b boxcars I recently wrapped up. I used the leftover fret material for the brake staff support on both models. Click on the image for a slightly larger view.

Here's a three-quarter view before paint application.

BTW, attached is an end view of NP 11348 for your archives and to follow closer to the topic. This came from the AC&F collection on the Barriger Library Flickr site.


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN


On 10/10/2021 5:34 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:


A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.


Nelson Moyer


Re: Resin kit collection for sale

Clark Propst
 

Talked to Carol (Caboose Stop Hobbies) yesterday. She said she was going to show her Westerfield and other resin kits during her Zoom Wednesday evening.
Clark
PS she has 6 kits from last week left.


Re: Using hoarded parts

Tim O'Connor
 

Clark

Nice! That car was a cripple, and you have restored it to full service!

Tim O'Connor

On 10/11/2021 11:07 AM, Clark Propst via groups.io wrote:
One more shot before painting, which I've done. The yellow resin box car in the background is one I bought at Caboose Stop Hobbies last Wednesday. I picked up the Ribside at a swap meet yesterday for $5. Plan to detail the underside a bit and renumber. The previous owner kind of botched his renumbering attempt. The M&StL car was a gift from John Golden. It needed some minor repairs and renumbering - I had the same number...
Clark

Attachments:




--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Using hoarded parts

Clark Propst
 

One more shot before painting, which I've done. The yellow resin box car in the background is one I bought at Caboose Stop Hobbies last Wednesday. I picked up the Ribside at a swap meet yesterday for $5. Plan to detail the underside a bit and renumber. The previous owner kind of botched his renumbering attempt. The M&StL car was a gift from John Golden. It needed some minor repairs and renumbering - I had the same number...
Clark


Re: End View for Rapido NP Boxcar

Tim O'Connor
 


A soldering iron works too. It's greener :-)


On 10/10/2021 7:34 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle works.

 

Nelson Moyer



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: more glue questions

Tim O'Connor
 


For hidden weights I like to use DAP silicone caulk which dries hard in about 24 hours.
And it's cheap. 😁

Tim O'Connor

On 10/11/2021 1:02 AM, Stanley Agar wrote:

Hi,

For years now I have drilled 2 small (1/8th inch or so) holes in the bottom of any boxcar, reefer or tank car to let anything vent out.

From my British modelling days 30 years ago I have a bogie open wagon (aka a gondola) plastic kit that had its lead weights glued on the bottom with contact adhesive (Evo-Stick) which now has a banana shaped floor, even though it was completely in the open and not sealed shut.

These days I’m a fan of using canopy glue to hold weights in place, it’s just slow to set.

Stan Agar in NZ



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

4981 - 5000 of 192656