Date   

Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper

Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

I'm slightly amused by this whole discussion. With some frequency, I slice and dice pieces of decals, including Ted's decals, to make the reweight dates and other data I need. On my recent SnT NWX reefer, I even had to piece together the build date, which is smaller than the reweigh! However, there are also Champ reweigh sets that allow you to get just about any date you want, repeatedly. As for actually seeing the decal, I find that a good set of Walmart 2x reading glasses, placed over my regular glasses (since I can no longer see up close w/o aids normally) and good light are about the only aids I need to see the decals and cut them out with a nice sharp pair of small scissors.

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On 10/28/21, 8:33 AM, "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io on behalf of Tim O'Connor" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io on behalf of timboconnor@comcast.net> wrote:

CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.

As a 1960's modeler I need many 1950's decals, but the sets almost
-never- have reweigh dates or shop stencils
later than 1960, and they also almost -never- have any revised GRL
numbers (in 1963 the GRL's were increased
for "40" "50" "70" and "100" ton cars). Extremely frustrating. 🙁

Tim O'Connor

On 10/27/2021 7:36 PM, WILLIAM PARDIE wrote:
> I really love the decals from Speedwitch and now Nationak Scale Car
> for the completeness of the sets. I too, however, have a problem
> reading the decal lettering on the smaller script. I have also found
> this to be a rwo headed sword. I had a devil of a time lettering a
> NYC car. Seeing the lettering was solved with a very inexpensive and
> brighgoose neck lamp from a drug store. The problem then became
> trimming the decals. The set contained probably every lot number that
> went above thr NYC oval heralds. They were printed very close
> together. I went through two sets of decalsc on this. First the
> proper lot was identified using the lamp. I finally used a magic
> marker to locate the lot that I wanted making an adjacent mark. I cut
> out an area larger than the lot and then worked my way down.
>
> Bill Pardie


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rapido X31a PRR boxcar - roof question

Eric Hansmann
 

Thanks for your comments, Dave.

 

The airbrush is not used in additional weathering steps. Some cars might receive a wash before I apply Pan Pastels and the pencil highlights.

 

I do not seal the cars when the weathering is complete. The Pan Pastels stay in place. I find the flat coat offers more tooth on the model surface for the Pan Pastels to stick.

 

Over the years, I’ve packed several weathered models to transport and display at RPM events. I haven’t noticed any degradation of the Pan Pastel applications. When I had an operating layout, the models were used in regular operating sessions.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dave Boss
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2021 9:32 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rapido X31a PRR boxcar - roof question

 

Hi Eric

              Super weathering ! After air brushing the tint/flat coat,aside from the panpastles, and colored pencil work did you apply any more air brush weathering? Also did you seal the cars again with dull coat? Again very nice work.

 

Good day

Dave

On Wednesday, October 27, 2021, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:

Todd,

 

I tint my post-decal flat coat with the car color to reduce the lettering whiteness. I add a couple drop of the car color in the paint cup with Model Master clear flat acryl. Stir well and you can see the hazy flat turn into the hazy car color. This is now my first weathering step. Here are a few hoppers that have had the lettering faded.

http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/2021/07/03/weathering-progress/

 

In many cases, the tinted flat coat is a more subtle change. There are before and after photos in this blog post.

http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/2017/04/21/southern-pacific-a-50-5-automobile-box-car/

 

Sadly, in April 2020 parent company Testors announced the Model Master paint line will be discontinued. If there are specific MM colors or products you like to use, stock up while you can.

 

I have a bottle of Vallejo Matt Varnish on hand to try soon. Others have used Krylon products for the flat coat, but I think those are only available in rattle cans.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Todd Sullivan via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2021 3:12 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rapido X31a PRR boxcar - roof question

 

Eldon,

I thought your weathering of the X31 in coal tar chip service was right on.  Somewhere, I found a photo of adingle door car tht had weathered right down to bare rusted metal, with that bluish purple tone on much of the surface.  I started an undecorated Bowser model and painted one side in PollyScale, no lettering.  Wasn't sure how I would do the lettering later - maybe heavily sanded decals.  Anyway, thanks for the cameo on how these cars were used. thanks for

Todd Sullivan


Re: 1st owner?

Eric Hansmann
 

Tim,

 

The truss angles are different on the XM-1 cars. One uses a Howe truss design while the other it a Pratt truss design.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2021 8:23 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] 1st owner?

 

Clark

Isn't this one of the "B&M XM-1" look alike cars? (except for the ends)

On 10/27/2021 6:13 PM, Clark Propst via groups.io wrote:

The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Clark

Attachments:

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper

Tim O'Connor
 

As a 1960's modeler I need many 1950's decals, but the sets almost -never- have reweigh dates or shop stencils
later than 1960, and they also almost -never- have any revised GRL numbers (in 1963 the GRL's were increased
for "40" "50" "70" and "100" ton cars). Extremely frustrating. 🙁

Tim O'Connor

On 10/27/2021 7:36 PM, WILLIAM PARDIE wrote:
I really love the decals from Speedwitch and now Nationak Scale Car for the completeness of the sets.  I too, however, have a problem reading the decal lettering  on the smaller script.  I have also found this to be a rwo headed sword.  I had a devil of a time lettering a NYC car.  Seeing the lettering was solved with a very inexpensive and brighgoose neck lamp from a drug store.  The problem then became trimming the decals.  The set contained probably every lot number that went above thr NYC oval heralds.  They were printed very close together.  I went through two sets of decalsc on this.  First the proper lot was identified using the lamp. I finally used a magic marker to locate the lot that I wanted making an adjacent mark.  I cut out an area larger than the lot and then worked my way down.

Bill Pardie
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: 1st owner?

Tim O'Connor
 

Clark

Isn't this one of the "B&M XM-1" look alike cars? (except for the ends)


On 10/27/2021 6:13 PM, Clark Propst via groups.io wrote:
The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Clark

Attachments:



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper

Tim O'Connor
 

Why use a marker at all? Just spray paint the back side of the paper with water based black paint.
Or even tape something dark to the back side? One only  needs the background color in order
to cut pieces out for dropping into water. Once the white letters separate from the paper they are
easy to see (I use a dark colored bowl).

Tim O'Connor


Tim O'Connor

On 10/27/2021 4:20 PM, Rod Miller wrote:
I also ruined a set with a black marker. Others swear it works. I think the issue is that I and perhaps you used a permanent marker which contained solvents that attacked the decal film. I suspect that a water based marker would work OK. Any experience out there with water based markers?
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


PRR X-31 prototype roof photo.

Charlie Duckworth
 

Here’s two images of the same X-31a boxcar showing some interesting weathering patterns on the roof panels. Are the darker gray areas black roof cement with the PRR Freight car paint over the top of the cement?  


--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer

Paul Doggett
 

Charlie 

That looks really great.

Paul Doggett      England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 


On 27 Oct 2021, at 23:11, Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:



This is my version of the mini-kit that I missed out on.  Accurail wood reefer body; queen posts from my parts bin, Champ Blue Ribbon FGE decals (the Speedwitch ones just wouldn’t lay in the groves).  Tru-Color ART yellow and Dullcoat with a drop of brown.   A few boards picked out with a brown pencil and white pencil used to denote salt around the hatches.  Do to the issue with the Speedwitch decal this sat in my shelf of doom for a couple years.  I finally used decal remover, resprayed the yellow and finished it today  

<23AF16D1-CF31-4BB8-9475-53CF069796B1.jpeg>
<7361123B-D59E-443C-AB10-56603ECF120A.jpeg>
<A4D65F64-F230-46B0-82BB-E9A75A67DB46.jpeg>
<30AA0ABC-344C-404A-BAB9-A99BA7585B52.jpeg>

--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


What Kind of Roof on RI 158159 Fowler?

golden1014
 

Hi Gentlemen,

Does anyone know what kind of roof this box car has (see attached photo)?

Thanks,
John Golden


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rapido X31a PRR boxcar - roof question

Dave Boss
 

Hi Eric
              Super weathering ! After air brushing the tint/flat coat,aside from the panpastles, and colored pencil work did you apply any more air brush weathering? Also did you seal the cars again with dull coat? Again very nice work.

Good day
Dave


On Wednesday, October 27, 2021, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:

Todd,

 

I tint my post-decal flat coat with the car color to reduce the lettering whiteness. I add a couple drop of the car color in the paint cup with Model Master clear flat acryl. Stir well and you can see the hazy flat turn into the hazy car color. This is now my first weathering step. Here are a few hoppers that have had the lettering faded.

http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/2021/07/03/weathering-progress/

 

In many cases, the tinted flat coat is a more subtle change. There are before and after photos in this blog post.

http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/2017/04/21/southern-pacific-a-50-5-automobile-box-car/

 

Sadly, in April 2020 parent company Testors announced the Model Master paint line will be discontinued. If there are specific MM colors or products you like to use, stock up while you can.

 

I have a bottle of Vallejo Matt Varnish on hand to try soon. Others have used Krylon products for the flat coat, but I think those are only available in rattle cans.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Todd Sullivan via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2021 3:12 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rapido X31a PRR boxcar - roof question

 

Eldon,

I thought your weathering of the X31 in coal tar chip service was right on.  Somewhere, I found a photo of adingle door car tht had weathered right down to bare rusted metal, with that bluish purple tone on much of the surface.  I started an undecorated Bowser model and painted one side in PollyScale, no lettering.  Wasn't sure how I would do the lettering later - maybe heavily sanded decals.  Anyway, thanks for the cameo on how these cars were used. thanks for

Todd Sullivan


Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper

Bruce Griffin
 

Ken,

Like Nelson, I rely on magnification and light. I use an optivisor for most work now but for white decals, I need something stronger and for less than the cost of additional optivisor lenses I use the:

  • YOCTOSUN LED Head Magnifier, Rechargeable Hands Free Headband Magnifying Glasses with 2 Led, Professional Jeweler's Loupe Light Bracket and Headband are Interchangeable

which is available on Amazon for $18. That is the exact name if you want to search for it. I use the strongest lens provided and the built-in light. When I find what I am looking for on the decal sheet I put a small dot next to it with a fine point Sharpie. This device allows me to read the smallest print. It is also cheap and small enough to take places when magnification is needed, like an archives.  I will say I am fortunate to not need glasses yet, but I am sure this will work with glasses, the key is moving the decal sheet in and out to get it in focus. 

Thanks for bringing up a mutual need, I am enjoying learning from other replies.

All the best,
Bruce D. Griffin
Ashland, MD
https://bomodeling.com/blog/

 


Re: Can someone comment on what the exact meaning of the shown hand signal is?

Dennis Storzek
 

On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 10:37 AM, Dave Bayless wrote:
It means EASY, Slow, Almost going to make a JOINT, given just before a stop.
Dave SilverStreak Bayless
I'm coming in late, but I too would read that as an EASY.

As to men on the car tops passing signals, worked great on curves. If the man was ten cars back he was easily seen  from the cab.

A comment about the variation of hand signals. I was taught in the seventies, by men who had been in train service before WWII, that the EASY signal was similar to the STOP signal in that you didn't use it to request a movement; you had to use a direction signal (go FORWARD, come BACK) then an EASY if the engineer was building more speed than you wanted. Imagine my surprise when out railfanning, watching a C&NW transfer crossing over the Burlington at the former site of Union Ave. Tower, now all hand thrown, when the conductor on the ground lining the route sticks his arms out and starts waddling like a duck, and the engineer throttles up and follows him. It just goes that any motion understood by the whole crew can be a signal.

Dennis Storzek


Re: One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer

Nelson Moyer
 

Very nice looking car, Charlie. You’re braver than I am, I went with the post-1950 paint scheme, doing away with hand painting all the hardware. After making color chips from several Tru Color yellows, I went with WFE Yellow for consortium cars. Supposedly, they all used the same paint scheme. Some modelers have used Armour Yellow for BREX cars, however I found that to be a little too orange and a little too dark yellow, but then I paint for a new paint look and weather from there.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2021 5:11 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer

 

This is my version of the mini-kit that I missed out on.  Accurail wood reefer body; queen posts from my parts bin, Champ Blue Ribbon FGE decals (the Speedwitch ones just wouldn’t lay in the groves).  Tru-Color ART yellow and Dullcoat with a drop of brown.   A few boards picked out with a brown pencil and white pencil used to denote salt around the hatches.  Do to the issue with the Speedwitch decal this sat in my shelf of doom for a couple years.  I finally used decal remover, resprayed the yellow and finished it today  


--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

I really love the decals from Speedwitch and now Nationak Scale Car for the completeness of the sets.  I too, however, have a problem reading the decal lettering  on the smaller script.  I have also found this to be a rwo headed sword.  I had a devil of a time lettering a NYC car.  Seeing the lettering was solved with a very inexpensive and brighgoose neck lamp from a drug store.  The problem then became trimming the decals.  The set contained probably every lot number that went above thr NYC oval heralds.  They were printed very close together.  I went through two sets of decalsc on this.  First the proper lot was identified using the lamp. I finally used a magic marker to locate the lot that I wanted making an adjacent mark.  I cut out an area larger than the lot and then worked my way down.

Bill Pardie



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: hubert mask <maskisland@...>
Date: 10/27/21 12:30 PM (GMT-10:00)
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper

Use a magnifying glass to read the decal sheets.   That is the safest way not to ruin your decal set. The decals are usually clustered to give you data for both sides of the car together.

Hubert Mask
Mask Island Decals Inc.
Maskislanddecals.com
> On Oct 27, 2021, at 4:20 PM, Rod Miller <rod@...> wrote:
>
> I also ruined a set with a black marker. Others swear it works. I think the issue is that I and perhaps you used a permanent marker which contained solvents that attacked the decal film. I suspect that a water based marker would work OK. Any experience out there with water based markers?
>
>
>
>
>






Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper

Scott H. Haycock
 

I recently purchased some Reweigh Patches from Smokebox Graphics that includes just such a picture as Dave describes.
 

Scott Haycock
Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm
ent

On 10/27/2021 4:18 PM Dave Parker via groups.io <spottab@...> wrote:
 
 
This doesn't really help Ken with his current problem, but I will make this comment:

I have been making my own (and a few for friends) decals with a Ghost white laser cartridge for several years.  In conjunction with Tango Papa decal paper, they are a real SOB to read, although fiddling with light angle does allow me to trim them accurately.  As a courtesy to myself and to others, I always print out a black-on-white "proof" sheet using inexpensive, lightweight photo paper; these are very legible.  Then, when choosing among several reweigh and repack stencils, it is easy to zero on the desired target based simply on its position on the sheet.

Given the minimal cost involved, I am surprised that this not the industry standard in our hobby.
--
Dave Parker
Swall Meadows, CA


Re: One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer

hubert mask
 

Looks great Charlie.  I haven’t forgot you decals and Horn.

Hubert Mask


On Oct 27, 2021, at 6:23 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:


Wow Charlie, it really looks nice.  Well done!!  I remember driving around Fla in the early 1960's and seeing many FGEX reefers stored on sidings and no two were the same color yellow.
Fenton

On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 6:11 PM Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:

This is my version of the mini-kit that I missed out on.  Accurail wood reefer body; queen posts from my parts bin, Champ Blue Ribbon FGE decals (the Speedwitch ones just wouldn’t lay in the groves).  Tru-Color ART yellow and Dullcoat with a drop of brown.   A few boards picked out with a brown pencil and white pencil used to denote salt around the hatches.  Do to the issue with the Speedwitch decal this sat in my shelf of doom for a couple years.  I finally used decal remover, resprayed the yellow and finished it today  

<23AF16D1-CF31-4BB8-9475-53CF069796B1.jpeg>
<7361123B-D59E-443C-AB10-56603ECF120A.jpeg>
<A4D65F64-F230-46B0-82BB-E9A75A67DB46.jpeg>
<30AA0ABC-344C-404A-BAB9-A99BA7585B52.jpeg>

--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper

hubert mask
 

Use a magnifying glass to read the decal sheets. That is the safest way not to ruin your decal set. The decals are usually clustered to give you data for both sides of the car together.

Hubert Mask
Mask Island Decals Inc.
Maskislanddecals.com

On Oct 27, 2021, at 4:20 PM, Rod Miller <rod@rodmiller.com> wrote:

I also ruined a set with a black marker. Others swear it works. I think the issue is that I and perhaps you used a permanent marker which contained solvents that attacked the decal film. I suspect that a water based marker would work OK. Any experience out there with water based markers?





Re: 1st owner?

 

At a guess, I’d say ex-RI Fowler clone.

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Clark Propst via groups.io" <cepropst@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Wednesday, October 27, 2021 at 5:13 PM
To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] 1st owner?

 

The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Clark


Re: 1st owner?

Schleigh Mike
 

That Clark----

Is one of the mid-1920s B-2 Fowler 'clones' that the Salzberg acquired, largely to sell for scrap, from the Rock Island.  A number went to the Ft. Dodge Line and four to the WAG in 1957.

Regards from leaf blown Grove City in western Penna.

Mike Schleigh

On Wednesday, October 27, 2021, 06:13:49 PM EDT, Clark Propst via groups.io <cepropst@...> wrote:


The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Clark


Re: One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer

O Fenton Wells
 

Wow Charlie, it really looks nice.  Well done!!  I remember driving around Fla in the early 1960's and seeing many FGEX reefers stored on sidings and no two were the same color yellow.
Fenton

On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 6:11 PM Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:

This is my version of the mini-kit that I missed out on.  Accurail wood reefer body; queen posts from my parts bin, Champ Blue Ribbon FGE decals (the Speedwitch ones just wouldn’t lay in the groves).  Tru-Color ART yellow and Dullcoat with a drop of brown.   A few boards picked out with a brown pencil and white pencil used to denote salt around the hatches.  Do to the issue with the Speedwitch decal this sat in my shelf of doom for a couple years.  I finally used decal remover, resprayed the yellow and finished it today  


--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...

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