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Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper
Folks,
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I'm slightly amused by this whole discussion. With some frequency, I slice and dice pieces of decals, including Ted's decals, to make the reweight dates and other data I need. On my recent SnT NWX reefer, I even had to piece together the build date, which is smaller than the reweigh! However, there are also Champ reweigh sets that allow you to get just about any date you want, repeatedly. As for actually seeing the decal, I find that a good set of Walmart 2x reading glasses, placed over my regular glasses (since I can no longer see up close w/o aids normally) and good light are about the only aids I need to see the decals and cut them out with a nice sharp pair of small scissors. Regards, Bruce Smith Auburn, AL On 10/28/21, 8:33 AM, "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io on behalf of Tim O'Connor" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io on behalf of timboconnor@comcast.net> wrote: CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn. As a 1960's modeler I need many 1950's decals, but the sets almost -never- have reweigh dates or shop stencils later than 1960, and they also almost -never- have any revised GRL numbers (in 1963 the GRL's were increased for "40" "50" "70" and "100" ton cars). Extremely frustrating. 🙁 Tim O'Connor
On 10/27/2021 7:36 PM, WILLIAM PARDIE wrote:
> I really love the decals from Speedwitch and now Nationak Scale Car > for the completeness of the sets. I too, however, have a problem > reading the decal lettering on the smaller script. I have also found > this to be a rwo headed sword. I had a devil of a time lettering a > NYC car. Seeing the lettering was solved with a very inexpensive and > brighgoose neck lamp from a drug store. The problem then became > trimming the decals. The set contained probably every lot number that > went above thr NYC oval heralds. They were printed very close > together. I went through two sets of decalsc on this. First the > proper lot was identified using the lamp. I finally used a magic > marker to locate the lot that I wanted making an adjacent mark. I cut > out an area larger than the lot and then worked my way down. > > Bill Pardie
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Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rapido X31a PRR boxcar - roof question
Eric Hansmann
Thanks for your comments, Dave.
The airbrush is not used in additional weathering steps. Some cars might receive a wash before I apply Pan Pastels and the pencil highlights.
I do not seal the cars when the weathering is complete. The Pan Pastels stay in place. I find the flat coat offers more tooth on the model surface for the Pan Pastels to stick.
Over the years, I’ve packed several weathered models to transport and display at RPM events. I haven’t noticed any degradation of the Pan Pastel applications. When I had an operating layout, the models were used in regular operating sessions.
Eric Hansmann Murfreesboro, TN
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dave Boss
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2021 9:32 PM To: main@realstmfc.groups.io Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rapido X31a PRR boxcar - roof question
Hi Eric Super weathering ! After air brushing the tint/flat coat,aside from the panpastles, and colored pencil work did you apply any more air brush weathering? Also did you seal the cars again with dull coat? Again very nice work.
Good day Dave
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Re: 1st owner?
Eric Hansmann
Tim,
The truss angles are different on the XM-1 cars. One uses a Howe truss design while the other it a Pratt truss design.
Eric Hansmann Murfreesboro, TN
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2021 8:23 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] 1st owner?
Clark On 10/27/2021 6:13 PM, Clark Propst via groups.io wrote:
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Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper
As a 1960's modeler I need many 1950's decals, but the sets almost -never- have reweigh dates or shop stencils
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
later than 1960, and they also almost -never- have any revised GRL numbers (in 1963 the GRL's were increased for "40" "50" "70" and "100" ton cars). Extremely frustrating. 🙁 Tim O'Connor
On 10/27/2021 7:36 PM, WILLIAM PARDIE wrote:
I really love the decals from Speedwitch and now Nationak Scale Car for the completeness of the sets. I too, however, have a problem reading the decal lettering on the smaller script. I have also found this to be a rwo headed sword. I had a devil of a time lettering a NYC car. Seeing the lettering was solved with a very inexpensive and brighgoose neck lamp from a drug store. The problem then became trimming the decals. The set contained probably every lot number that went above thr NYC oval heralds. They were printed very close together. I went through two sets of decalsc on this. First the proper lot was identified using the lamp. I finally used a magic marker to locate the lot that I wanted making an adjacent mark. I cut out an area larger than the lot and then worked my way down. --
*Tim O'Connor* *Sterling, Massachusetts*
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Re: 1st owner?
Clark
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Isn't this one of the "B&M XM-1" look alike cars? (except for the ends)
On 10/27/2021 6:13 PM, Clark Propst via
groups.io wrote:
The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these. --
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper
Why use a marker at all? Just spray paint the back side of the paper with water based black paint.
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Or even tape something dark to the back side? One only needs the background color in order to cut pieces out for dropping into water. Once the white letters separate from the paper they are easy to see (I use a dark colored bowl). Tim O'Connor Tim O'Connor
On 10/27/2021 4:20 PM, Rod Miller wrote:
I also ruined a set with a black marker. Others swear it works. I think the issue is that I and perhaps you used a permanent marker which contained solvents that attacked the decal film. I suspect that a water based marker would work OK. Any experience out there with water based markers? --
*Tim O'Connor* *Sterling, Massachusetts*
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PRR X-31 prototype roof photo.
Here’s two images of the same X-31a boxcar showing some interesting weathering patterns on the roof panels. Are the darker gray areas black roof cement with the PRR Freight car paint over the top of the cement?
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Re: One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer
Paul Doggett
Charlie
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That looks really great. Paul Doggett England 🏴
On 27 Oct 2021, at 23:11, Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:
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What Kind of Roof on RI 158159 Fowler?
golden1014
Hi Gentlemen,
Does anyone know what kind of roof this box car has (see attached photo)? Thanks, John Golden
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Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rapido X31a PRR boxcar - roof question
Dave Boss
Hi Eric
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Super weathering ! After air brushing the tint/flat coat,aside from the panpastles, and colored pencil work did you apply any more air brush weathering? Also did you seal the cars again with dull coat? Again very nice work. Good day Dave
On Wednesday, October 27, 2021, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:
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Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper
Ken,
Like Nelson, I rely on magnification and light. I use an optivisor for most work now but for white decals, I need something stronger and for less than the cost of additional optivisor lenses I use the:
which is available on Amazon for $18. That is the exact name if you want to search for it. I use the strongest lens provided and the built-in light. When I find what I am looking for on the decal sheet I put a small dot next to it with a fine point Sharpie. This device allows me to read the smallest print. It is also cheap and small enough to take places when magnification is needed, like an archives. I will say I am fortunate to not need glasses yet, but I am sure this will work with glasses, the key is moving the decal sheet in and out to get it in focus. Thanks for bringing up a mutual need, I am enjoying learning from other replies. All the best,
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Re: Can someone comment on what the exact meaning of the shown hand signal is?
Dennis Storzek
On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 10:37 AM, Dave Bayless wrote:
I'm coming in late, but I too would read that as an EASY. As to men on the car tops passing signals, worked great on curves. If the man was ten cars back he was easily seen from the cab. A comment about the variation of hand signals. I was taught in the seventies, by men who had been in train service before WWII, that the EASY signal was similar to the STOP signal in that you didn't use it to request a movement; you had to use a direction signal (go FORWARD, come BACK) then an EASY if the engineer was building more speed than you wanted. Imagine my surprise when out railfanning, watching a C&NW transfer crossing over the Burlington at the former site of Union Ave. Tower, now all hand thrown, when the conductor on the ground lining the route sticks his arms out and starts waddling like a duck, and the engineer throttles up and follows him. It just goes that any motion understood by the whole crew can be a signal. Dennis Storzek
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Re: One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer
Nelson Moyer
Very nice looking car, Charlie. You’re braver than I am, I went with the post-1950 paint scheme, doing away with hand painting all the hardware. After making color chips from several Tru Color yellows, I went with WFE Yellow for consortium cars. Supposedly, they all used the same paint scheme. Some modelers have used Armour Yellow for BREX cars, however I found that to be a little too orange and a little too dark yellow, but then I paint for a new paint look and weather from there.
Nelson Moyer
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2021 5:11 PM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: [RealSTMFC] One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer
This is my version of the mini-kit that I missed out on. Accurail wood reefer body; queen posts from my parts bin, Champ Blue Ribbon FGE decals (the Speedwitch ones just wouldn’t lay in the groves). Tru-Color ART yellow and Dullcoat with a drop of brown. A few boards picked out with a brown pencil and white pencil used to denote salt around the hatches. Do to the issue with the Speedwitch decal this sat in my shelf of doom for a couple years. I finally used decal remover, resprayed the yellow and finished it today
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Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper
WILLIAM PARDIE
I really love the decals from Speedwitch and now Nationak Scale Car for the completeness of the sets. I too, however, have a problem reading the decal lettering on the smaller script. I have also found this to be a rwo headed sword. I had a devil of a time lettering a NYC car. Seeing the lettering was solved with a very inexpensive and brighgoose neck lamp from a drug store. The problem then became trimming the decals. The set contained probably every lot number that went above thr NYC oval heralds. They were printed very close together. I went through two sets of decalsc on this. First the proper lot was identified using the lamp. I finally used a magic marker to locate the lot that I wanted making an adjacent mark. I cut out an area larger than the lot and then worked my way down. Bill Pardie Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message -------- From: hubert mask <maskisland@...> Date: 10/27/21 12:30 PM (GMT-10:00) To: main@realstmfc.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper Hubert Mask Mask Island Decals Inc. Maskislanddecals.com > On Oct 27, 2021, at 4:20 PM, Rod Miller <rod@...> wrote: > > I also ruined a set with a black marker. Others swear it works. I think the issue is that I and perhaps you used a permanent marker which contained solvents that attacked the decal film. I suspect that a water based marker would work OK. Any experience out there with water based markers? > > > > >
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Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper
Scott H. Haycock
I recently purchased some Reweigh Patches from Smokebox Graphics that includes just such a picture as Dave describes.
Scott Haycock
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Re: One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer
hubert mask
Looks great Charlie. I haven’t forgot you decals and Horn.
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Hubert Mask
On Oct 27, 2021, at 6:23 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:
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Re: Reading White Decals printed on pale blue backing.paper
hubert mask
Use a magnifying glass to read the decal sheets. That is the safest way not to ruin your decal set. The decals are usually clustered to give you data for both sides of the car together.
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Hubert Mask Mask Island Decals Inc. Maskislanddecals.com
On Oct 27, 2021, at 4:20 PM, Rod Miller <rod@rodmiller.com> wrote:
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Re: 1st owner?
At a guess, I’d say ex-RI Fowler clone.
Thanks!
From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Clark Propst via groups.io" <cepropst@...>
The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these.
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Re: 1st owner?
Schleigh Mike
That Clark---- Is one of the mid-1920s B-2 Fowler 'clones' that the Salzberg acquired, largely to sell for scrap, from the Rock Island. A number went to the Ft. Dodge Line and four to the WAG in 1957. Regards from leaf blown Grove City in western Penna. Mike Schleigh
On Wednesday, October 27, 2021, 06:13:49 PM EDT, Clark Propst via groups.io <cepropst@...> wrote:
The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these. Any help is greatly appreciated, Clark
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Re: One out of the penalty box Fruit Growers Express truss rod reefer
Wow Charlie, it really looks nice. Well done!! I remember driving around Fla in the early 1960's and seeing many FGEX reefers stored on sidings and no two were the same color yellow. Fenton
On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 6:11 PM Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:
--
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thanks for 
thanks for 
