Date   

PFE Detail Decals

WILLIAM PARDIE
 


In the photos that Paul Dogget posted this morning of some of Bob Smaus' great modeling I notice that there is "ON", "OFF" lettering on the fan control box.  Anyone have any idea where this lettering might have come from?

Bill Pardie


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphon


Re: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

 

I use a California Air Tools compressor for everything around the house. It’s far more than adequate for airbrushing, and works well for brad nailers, etc. when used at a modest pace. It’s not up to running an air impact wrench, for example. 

Mine is a similar version to the Lowe's link that mshepler posted below (mine has an aluminum tank, but minus details, it otherwise looks to be the same). I couple a 10 gallon passive tank in line with mine to allow some flexibility (portability for filling car tires, for example), longer times between compressor runs in mid-capacity use or more burst capacity for shorter bursts of air-hungry tools.

It’s quiet, but the vibration could potentially bother your neighbors if it’s sitting directly on a floor. Setting it on some vibration isolating material might make that possible issue moot. 

Incidentally, Menards also carries the same model, and I saw what I thought was a larger capacity version in the physical store the other day.

When I bought mine 8 or so years ago, they were only available from the manufacturer and Amazon. Now that you can find them at Lowes (and Menards), you have the option of easily returning it if it doesn’t work out. I’ve been very happy with mine and haven’t missed my 5hp 20 gallon compressor in the least. Would 1.2cfm at 90psi for an air blaster be enough with the extra capacity of a passive tank? I don’t know. 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio, US


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

Mac shp
 

If 60 decibels is ok  for you Lowes and Menard's sell tanked compressors that meet your
needs for a reasonable price.
Lowes offers several 60 db units including

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Quiet-Tech-4-3-Gallon-Single-Stage-Portable-Electric-Twin-Stack-Air-Compressor/1001013970

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-QUIET-TECH-2-Gallon-Single-Stage-Portable-Electric-Hot-Dog-Air-Compressor/1001014016

and a
A  56 decb unit   https://www.lowes.com/pd/California-Air-Tools-Light-and-Quiet-1-Gallon-Single-Stage-Portable-Ele/1000753230

 

 Menards

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/air-compressors/masterforce-reg-ultra-quiet-4-gallon-150-psi-portable-electric-horizontal-air-compressor/3300445/p-1536042526172-c-12910.htm?tid=778891584350964127&ipos=4


WTB: Speedwitch K116 Norfolk & Western G-5 Gondola

Rich C
 

Hey Group, I am looking to buy

Speedwitch K116 Norfolk & Western G-5 Gondola

 

Please contact me off list

Thanks

Rich Christie

rhcdmc@...


Re: Single-sheathed box cars

Owen Thorne - owen at udel.edu
 

Wow!
Thanks to Jeff, Mike, Doug, Nelson, Ken, Tim, Steve and others for an informative discussion on hide cars and traffic.
I did not know this where my questions on IC 50' composite autocar modeling would lead us but have learned much and hope to incorporate this traffic in my layout traffic planning. Summing up:
  • Americans consumed great quantities of beef so slaughterhouses generated plenty of raw or green hides.
  • Americans also consumed leather in many forms so leather works needed plenty of tanned hides as raw materials.
  • Removing raw hides from slaughterhouses, often near midwestern stockyards, to tanneries was time-sensitive and thereby lucrative.
  • Green hides were also needed in glue factories (and other industries? Soap?) as were other leftovers from tanning and livestock processes needed.
  • This hide and slaughter-waste traffic was important to shippers so was a potentially lucrative source of revenue the railroads needed to court.
  • Vegetable tanneries were usually located near necessary sources of bark, power, water and/or chemicals, and away from city centers.
  • Chrome tanneries located near sources of chemicals producing soft stretchy leather for clothing and upholstery. Both stank and generated nasty wastes.
  • Tanned leather then needed to be moved from tanneries to factories producing clothing, tack, furniture, belts, accessories or vehicles.
  • Green hides ruined the linings of railroad equipment for any other service so older cars, or those not worth reconditioning, were best suited.
  • Wooden double and single sheathed cars were more likely to be wearing out than newer steel cars would be in the 1940-50's.
  • Steel cars could be used but almost all were wood lined and floored so the same result - good for nothing else afterwards.
  • One wonders, were older stock cars or reefers on their last legs utilized for green hides? Open cars seem counterproductive (the soup factor.)
  • Once in hide service, a house car remained in captive service, returned empty then used and again as such until worn out or wrecked.
  • Tanned hides would not likely travel in green/raw hide cars due to the stink so newer, clean, tight boxcars would be needed for traffic to factories.
  • Even if one does not model a stockyard, slaughterhouse or tannery - or a siding serving one off-stage - one can simulate run-through hide traffic.
  • Stockyards, tanneries and leather works generated additional loads for our STMFcars beyond the scope of this discussion. Maybe a new thread?
Model railroading is fun! Thank you, all,
Owen Thorne


Wisconsin Central “sawtooth” Box Car 135316 Upgrade

Lester Breuer
 

I have upgraded Sunshine Models Wisconsin Central  (W.C.) “sawtooth”  box car, numbered 135316 built last month.  Upgrade was done after learning these cars had a early “high Power” hand brake with vertical brake shaft ending in a cast sill housing with gears.  And, a paint storage tip.  If you are interested, photos and write up are now available on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.  If would like to take a look please do at the following link:

 

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/

 

 

Keep Modeling, Keep Sharing,

Lester Breuer

 


Re: Single-sheathed box cars (ATSF 212483)

Bob Chaparro
 

The stencil on this car states it is to be returned to Santa Fe Springs, CA. I grew up not far from the Santa Fe depot in at this location. It was a tiny structure surrounded by oil field and citrus groves. I've checked with local folks and no one can recall any large cattle ranching or meat processing facility near this location. Nor was there a cleanout facility at this location. So, the stencil instructions are somewhat of a mystery.
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

Tim O'Connor
 


Wow. I've been in noisier hospital rooms than that! 😁 You could paint on the kitchen
table during dinner and no one would even notice. 😂


On 12/1/2021 11:40 AM, Douglas Harding wrote:
dB rating on the Iwata Hammerhead Shark is 60 decibels. 
Specifications
· 1/2 hp
· 1.5 Gallon Tank  5.7 L
· 2.15 CFM@open flow 61lpm
· 84-114 PSI max. pressure
· 110V or 60Hz
· Overall dimensions 17 x 17 x 20"
· 55 Pounds  25kg

SilentAire Super-Silent 20-a compressor runs at 30dB and puts out .7CFM max 85psi

Doug Harding
www.iowacentralrr.org

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:13 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"


What we need is a Db rating for them at, say, 10 feet.

Years ago I watched a custom painter doing seasonal window painting inside a Dunkin Donuts and the compressor was almost as quiet as a coffee maker... It had no tank.



On 11/30/2021 10:42 PM, steve_wintner via groups.io wrote:
Bill, i have 2 compressors, a Mr Hobby L7 and a Paasche DC600R.

The L7 maxes out around 25 psi, but is very quiet. The Paasche is 
capable of higher pressures but is noisier - but quieter than some, 
especially the home Depot type noisemakers. I'd recommend it but don't 
know if it's "silent".

I think a gas tank may be your best bet.

Steve


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

Douglas Harding
 

dB rating on the Iwata Hammerhead Shark is 60 decibels.
Specifications
· 1/2 hp
· 1.5 Gallon Tank 5.7 L
· 2.15 CFM@open flow 61lpm
· 84-114 PSI max. pressure
· 110V or 60Hz
· Overall dimensions 17 x 17 x 20"
· 55 Pounds 25kg

SilentAire Super-Silent 20-a compressor runs at 30dB and puts out .7CFM max 85psi

Doug Harding
www.iowacentralrr.org

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:13 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"


What we need is a Db rating for them at, say, 10 feet.

Years ago I watched a custom painter doing seasonal window painting inside a Dunkin Donuts and the compressor was almost as quiet as a coffee maker... It had no tank.



On 11/30/2021 10:42 PM, steve_wintner via groups.io wrote:
Bill, i have 2 compressors, a Mr Hobby L7 and a Paasche DC600R.

The L7 maxes out around 25 psi, but is very quiet. The Paasche is
capable of higher pressures but is noisier - but quieter than some,
especially the home Depot type noisemakers. I'd recommend it but don't
know if it's "silent".

I think a gas tank may be your best bet.

Steve


--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

Tim O'Connor
 

What we need is a Db rating for them at, say, 10 feet.

Years ago I watched a custom painter doing seasonal window painting inside a Dunkin Donuts
and the compressor was almost as quiet as a coffee maker... It had no tank.

On 11/30/2021 10:42 PM, steve_wintner via groups.io wrote:
Bill, i have 2 compressors, a Mr Hobby L7 and a Paasche DC600R.

The L7 maxes out around 25 psi, but is very quiet. The Paasche is capable of higher pressures but is noisier - but quieter than some, especially the home Depot type noisemakers. I'd recommend it but don't know if it's "silent".

I think a gas tank may be your best bet.

Steve
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Model project shares

Eric Hansmann
 

Members of an email discussion group recently shared many resin freight car projects. The photos and notes have been assembled into the latest Resin Car Works blog post.

Eric Hansmann
RCW web guy


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

steve_wintner
 

Bill, i have 2 compressors, a Mr Hobby L7 and a Paasche DC600R. 

The L7 maxes out around 25 psi, but is very quiet. The Paasche is capable of higher pressures but is noisier - but quieter than some, especially the home Depot type noisemakers. I'd recommend it but don't know if it's "silent". 

I think a gas tank may be your best bet. 

Steve


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

Douglas Harding
 

Bill I use a Iwata Hammerhead Shark https://www.madisonartshop.com/haheshaico.html   Extremely quiet, same as a refrigerator. It has a ½ gallon air tank and puts out a max of 118lbs and 2.15 cfm. I recently used it to power an 18g brad nailer, with no problems or lack of air doing a home renovation project. I doubt it would handle a larger nail gun in continuous use.

I also have a Badger 260 grit blaster http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Badger_260.asp Badger recommends 30psi, but max of 80psi. I have had no problems blasting baking soda. I have not used alum oxide, but don’t think there will be any problem.

 

While the Hammerhead Shark is the top of the line, Iwata has a line of “Silent” compressors. Sil-air is another brand http://www.silentaire.com/silentaire/sil_air.asp . And of course Badger also sells one http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Compressors.asp

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of WILLIAM PARDIE
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2021 8:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

 

Can anyone recommend a "Silent" compressor that has a high output.  I live in a condominium and if I use a standard compressor my neighbors are at my door with torches and pitchforks.

 

Bill Pardie

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

-------- Original message --------

From: Bruce Smith <smithbf@...>

Date: 11/30/21 3:30 PM (GMT-10:00)

Subject: Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

 

I definitely had to upgrade my compressor when I bought a North Coast Engineering grit blaster. Both capacity and flow are important variables. 

 

I too typically grit blast at around 60 PSI, both with baking soda (currently) and AlO2, whether plastic, resin, or brass.

 

Note that grit can also lose it's ability to "cut" with age so it does need to be replaced occasionally. I just had to do that with my baking soda a couple of months ago.

 

Regards,

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of steve_wintner via groups.io <steve_wintner@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2021 7:20 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

 

CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.

I've found I needed 60+ psi and alu oxide grit to get good results on brass, using a Paasche Air Eraser. Soda or lower pressure didn't have enough oomph. 

Paul, which blaster are you using, and which grit ? 

Steve


Re: "Blaster"

Clark Propst
 

Forgot to mention I used baking soda. The 'blaster' recommendation on the box is 90 psi. Seemed to work best at that, novice speaking of course.
Clark


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

Mansell Peter Hambly
 

I use diving air. It is dry and filtered. Cheap to refill but costly to start up.

 

Mansell Peter Hambly

COQUITLAM, B.C. CANADA

 

Sent from Mail for Windows

 

From: WILLIAM PARDIE
Sent: November 30, 2021 6:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

 

Can anyone recommend a "Silent" compressor that has a high output.  I live in a condominium and if I use a standard compressor my neighbors are at my door with torches and pitchforks.

 

Bill Pardie

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

-------- Original message --------

From: Bruce Smith <smithbf@...>

Date: 11/30/21 3:30 PM (GMT-10:00)

To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

Subject: Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

 

I definitely had to upgrade my compressor when I bought a North Coast Engineering grit blaster. Both capacity and flow are important variables. 

 

I too typically grit blast at around 60 PSI, both with baking soda (currently) and AlO2, whether plastic, resin, or brass.

 

Note that grit can also lose it's ability to "cut" with age so it does need to be replaced occasionally. I just had to do that with my baking soda a couple of months ago.

 

Regards,

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of steve_wintner via groups.io <steve_wintner@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2021 7:20 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

 

CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.

I've found I needed 60+ psi and alu oxide grit to get good results on brass, using a Paasche Air Eraser. Soda or lower pressure didn't have enough oomph. 

Paul, which blaster are you using, and which grit ? 

Steve

 


Re: "Blaster"

Tim O'Connor
 

I've never used my blaster to remove a paint job - I use it to clean up the model after
chemical stripping, or to prepare an unpainted model or parts for painting.

Tim O'Connor

On 11/30/2021 6:50 PM, prr282 via groups.io wrote:
You shouldn't have to wait for your compressor to catch up.  Even the 60 psi is way too much to use on plastic or brass.  Hopefully you're using a pressure regulator with a moisture trap.  I' suggest starting with 30 psi.  Experiment with a scrap body to see what pressure removes the paint in a reasonable time without damaging the surface.

Paul B.
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

Can anyone recommend a "Silent" compressor that has a high output.  I live in a condominium and if I use a standard compressor my neighbors are at my door with torches and pitchforks.

Bill Pardie


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Bruce Smith <smithbf@...>
Date: 11/30/21 3:30 PM (GMT-10:00)
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

I definitely had to upgrade my compressor when I bought a North Coast Engineering grit blaster. Both capacity and flow are important variables. 

I too typically grit blast at around 60 PSI, both with baking soda (currently) and AlO2, whether plastic, resin, or brass.

Note that grit can also lose it's ability to "cut" with age so it does need to be replaced occasionally. I just had to do that with my baking soda a couple of months ago.

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of steve_wintner via groups.io <steve_wintner@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2021 7:20 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"
 
CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.
I've found I needed 60+ psi and alu oxide grit to get good results on brass, using a Paasche Air Eraser. Soda or lower pressure didn't have enough oomph. 

Paul, which blaster are you using, and which grit ? 

Steve


Re: MILW Woodchip Gon was Re: MILW Gondola Painting

Tim O'Connor
 

All I know now is what was included in the file name - David Newcomb was the modeler
and it was at the "Pacific Northwest" RPM meet in 2008.

On 11/30/2021 10:49 AM, Jeff Helm wrote:
Tim

Thanks for posting those woodchip Gon photos.  I’m very curious about the MILW model as I have been trying to find both prototype info and a good model to start with.  Would you have any more information on that car?

I have found one photo showing a MILW wc gon being loaded at a mill in the Grays Harbor, Washington area in the late ‘50s, but it’s an oblique shot from a high angle and doesn’t show much of the Gon detail.
--
Cheers

Jeff Helm
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"

Bruce Smith
 

I definitely had to upgrade my compressor when I bought a North Coast Engineering grit blaster. Both capacity and flow are important variables. 

I too typically grit blast at around 60 PSI, both with baking soda (currently) and AlO2, whether plastic, resin, or brass.

Note that grit can also lose it's ability to "cut" with age so it does need to be replaced occasionally. I just had to do that with my baking soda a couple of months ago.

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of steve_wintner via groups.io <steve_wintner@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2021 7:20 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] "Blaster"
 
CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.
I've found I needed 60+ psi and alu oxide grit to get good results on brass, using a Paasche Air Eraser. Soda or lower pressure didn't have enough oomph. 

Paul, which blaster are you using, and which grit ? 

Steve


Re: "Blaster"

steve_wintner
 

I've found I needed 60+ psi and alu oxide grit to get good results on brass, using a Paasche Air Eraser. Soda or lower pressure didn't have enough oomph. 

Paul, which blaster are you using, and which grit ? 

Steve

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