Date   

Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Steve SANDIFER
 

Some would cringe, but I have sanded the back of some of my resin stock car models with an electric sander – yea, really.  You just have to know when to stop. The doors are much thinner, so can’t do much there. I’ve built 24 which includes several kitbashes for ATSF classes not otherwise produced. 20 are ATSF, one each of MP, NYC, SLSF, and T&P. I have others yet to build including a RI and CB&Q. The ATSF represent 13 different classes, so it is neat to see a stock train where the heights of the cars vary. The hardest part of building one is deciding to start.

I have one model of a very early car where the side slats and end slats don’t meet at all. 

Most difficult stock car I have built: NKP shops ATSF Horse Car for passenger service.

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Schleigh Mike via groups.io
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 2:46 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io; main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

It is surely inspiring to see such prolific and fine model work, Nelson----

 

Thanks for sharing.  We should all feel motivated by your example.

 

Regards from Grove City in western Penna. where it has been snowing (Not an April Fool comment)----Mike Schleigh

 

On Friday, April 1, 2022, 02:38:50 PM EDT, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

Actually, it should be 27 stock cars. I only reported the 24 Sunshine CB&Q and one Westerfield RI. There was also another ATSF Westerfield and a GN Speedwitch car that I forgot about. I batch built the Q stock cars, and that was a mind boggling experience. I built them before I started taking in progress photos, but it was something to see with 24 cars spread out on the workbench. I attached a photo of the Q string, plus closeups of the other cars. I included the SM-18 underframe photo because the Challenger brass import and the Sunshine kit instructions are both incorrect about placement of the AB brake components, probably because both relied upon the Hundman drawing. No correct mechanical drawing has surfaced, but Ed Rethswisch researched the brake layout when he built his Sunshine kits. He noticed the instruction placement didn’t match the available photos, and I was the beneficiary of Ed’s work.

 

Nelson

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 12:14 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Nelson
My hat is definitely off to anyone who’s built 25 resin stockcars.  I’ve built under 10 and have 6 Westerfield kits on the shelf to do (4 MP and 2 RI). I dread sanding away the resin between the slats and then the cleanup of each board.  I’ll get to them eventually built but a resin boxcar kit seems to jump ahead of the stockcar queue every time.  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.

 


Re: Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

mopacfirst
 

Glad to see you're just ahead of me.  I too have several MP (and Santa Fe and Rock) stockcars that I've started on.  I did what the Westerfield instructions said and built up all the end detail first.  Got some sides sanded out and just about ready for assembly.

One thing I did first, as on some others I did last year, was to spray the inside with a dirty wood color while the pieces were flat.

Ron Merrick


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Charlie Duckworth
 

Nelson
After seeing your CB&Q stock extra I’ll never whine about building another resin stockcar.  Beautiful work!  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Bruce Smith
 

As Nelson points out, finger pressure is key. I was zipping along on a resin NP stock car and one finger got a little heavy and boom, I sanded through a slat. Repair will either be accomplished a la Nelson, or…. Perhaps as a naked unpainted board nailed in place as a repair!

 

Regards,

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...>
Reply-To: "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Friday, April 1, 2022 at 3:31 PM
To: "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.

I’m glad you enjoyed seeing those cars. Someday I’ll get around to weathering them and put them on the layout. They’re in A-Line boxes now, along with all my resin cars. If you’re interested in following my work, I post all of my resin builds on the resincarbuilders io group. I don’t often double or triple post because of the image size and group storage limitation. The resinbuilders group archives have picture of almost all cars I’ve built except the plastic/resin hybrids, which are in the plasticcarbuilders io group. A few are on Proto-Modelers or this group. Last time I counted I had built around 200 resin cars.

 

 

Usually it’s the slats that are at risk of sanding through. I did that on two slats on my first car. I replaced the damaged slats with styrene strip, and after painting I couldn’t see the repair. Never happened again. Tape your sandpaper to a flat surface. I use a piece of flooring tile. Start with 220 grit until you get the feel of it, then for thick flash, you can start with 120 or 150 to remove most of the flash. Move to 400 to finish the job. The key is to sand with light even hand or finger pressure, and move your fingers around to cover  the entire surface of the side. If the flash is thick, I start with full hand pressure over the entire side. When the flash gets thin, I use three fingertips in a panel, anchored between the Z-bars, and I sand one panel at a time, repeating the process until all the flash is starting to peel off. Then I use  the tip of a #11 blade held perpendicular  to the slats in the hole between slats, and drag it along the space between slats to clear the remaining flash. Do this gently to avoid damaging the slats. If the flash is still forming a fillet between the slat and Z-bar, I square the joint (or sharpen the joint in the case of diagonal Z-bar) with a #11 blade. The process is tedious, but once you do a few, it gets easier and faster. Some have recommended using a foam pad to spread out finger pressure, but I prefer the tactile feedback from just using my fingers. A light touch prevents damaging the Z-bar and slats.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Gary Ray
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 2:33 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

That is impressive!  I’ve only tried two and still haven’t mastered the process of sanding them thin without damage to the steel trusses.  Put them aside for another day.  Will have to get back to them. 

 

Bravo!

 

Gary Ray

Azle, TX

 


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Nelson Moyer
 

I’m glad you enjoyed seeing those cars. Someday I’ll get around to weathering them and put them on the layout. They’re in A-Line boxes now, along with all my resin cars. If you’re interested in following my work, I post all of my resin builds on the resincarbuilders io group. I don’t often double or triple post because of the image size and group storage limitation. The resinbuilders group archives have picture of almost all cars I’ve built except the plastic/resin hybrids, which are in the plasticcarbuilders io group. A few are on Proto-Modelers or this group. Last time I counted I had built around 200 resin cars.

 

 

Usually it’s the slats that are at risk of sanding through. I did that on two slats on my first car. I replaced the damaged slats with styrene strip, and after painting I couldn’t see the repair. Never happened again. Tape your sandpaper to a flat surface. I use a piece of flooring tile. Start with 220 grit until you get the feel of it, then for thick flash, you can start with 120 or 150 to remove most of the flash. Move to 400 to finish the job. The key is to sand with light even hand or finger pressure, and move your fingers around to cover  the entire surface of the side. If the flash is thick, I start with full hand pressure over the entire side. When the flash gets thin, I use three fingertips in a panel, anchored between the Z-bars, and I sand one panel at a time, repeating the process until all the flash is starting to peel off. Then I use  the tip of a #11 blade held perpendicular  to the slats in the hole between slats, and drag it along the space between slats to clear the remaining flash. Do this gently to avoid damaging the slats. If the flash is still forming a fillet between the slat and Z-bar, I square the joint (or sharpen the joint in the case of diagonal Z-bar) with a #11 blade. The process is tedious, but once you do a few, it gets easier and faster. Some have recommended using a foam pad to spread out finger pressure, but I prefer the tactile feedback from just using my fingers. A light touch prevents damaging the Z-bar and slats.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Gary Ray
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 2:33 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

That is impressive!  I’ve only tried two and still haven’t mastered the process of sanding them thin without damage to the steel trusses.  Put them aside for another day.  Will have to get back to them. 

 

Bravo!

 

Gary Ray

Azle, TX

 


Re: Need instruction sheet for Sunshine Kit #62.5 UTLX X-3, 6.5K tank car

Chuck Cover
 

Thanks to all who have responded.  I now have the instructions courtesy of Fenton Wells.  Bill Pardee let me know that Ted Culotta’s Essential Freight Cars #12 in the May 2004 RMC covers this model and details a bunch of kit problems and solutions.

 

Thanks again

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Charlie Vlk
 

Nelson-

Nice job on the Q Stock Cars!

They were one of the primary reasons I got into N Scale…..

…..back in 1964 resin was only being used for casting tree stumps.  Northeastern did not make Z stock small enough to do Q stock cars or single sheathed box cars and road specific production models were not even a dream….we only had KarLine doing varieties of roadnumbers and paint jobs on generic Athearn or Roundhouse box cars.

I had an LMB O1a that Pat Eagan had detailed for CB&Q #4978 and I painted up a Trains, Inc. four window waycar (actually, Drovers Car with end windows).  I realized that NOTHING was accurate for CB&Q and I would be driving myself crazy trying to put cars in between the tender and waycar.

So I decided to create a mythical railroad that magically had the very prototypes that the importers were bringing in for N Scale.   This worked for a few years…then Hallmark, Oriental and Shoreham Shops started doing Q prototypes in Brass.   If that wasn’t bad enough, I started a second career in the Model Railroad Industry and did it to myself selecting a bunch of Burlington subjects for production models.

So now, fifty-eight years later, I am back to about the point I started out in 1964…wanting to have a string of SM18 stockcars like you built.   It doesn’t look like the new kit is going to be the answer.   About 15 years ago a friend of mine did a Solidworks drawing and we had a couple of cars printed on a Prefactory printer that was capable of printing injection-molded quality parts.  Unfortunately, the ends were mishappened and the guy that had the printer moved back to New Zealand and never got the machine going again.  The prints were dead nuts scale and were not set up to accept N trucks and couplers.  I have since gotten modified files that separate the underframe from the body (the original car was one complete print!!) and have a printer but have not had the time available to play with it yet.

There are a number of signature CB&Q cars that I need so learning to do 3D CAD is another round to it I need to set some time aside for.  So far Shapeways has not had any quality CB&Q equipment except for a snowplow to mount on a flatcar.  There are Metra-ized gallery cars and a NE12 but they are pretty crude renditions.  I am hoping against hope somebody will do boiler and tender conversions for O1, O1a, O2 and O3 to convert USRA mikados to CB&Q….and, of course, NE waycars would be really nice subjects for 3D CAD as variations could be made to do the entire range of wood waycars….we already have great No.7 trucks to put under them!!

Charlie Vlk

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 1:39 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Actually, it should be 27 stock cars. I only reported the 24 Sunshine CB&Q and one Westerfield RI. There was also another ATSF Westerfield and a GN Speedwitch car that I forgot about. I batch built the Q stock cars, and that was a mind boggling experience. I built them before I started taking in progress photos, but it was something to see with 24 cars spread out on the workbench. I attached a photo of the Q string, plus closeups of the other cars. I included the SM-18 underframe photo because the Challenger brass import and the Sunshine kit instructions are both incorrect about placement of the AB brake components, probably because both relied upon the Hundman drawing. No correct mechanical drawing has surfaced, but Ed Rethswisch researched the brake layout when he built his Sunshine kits. He noticed the instruction placement didn’t match the available photos, and I was the beneficiary of Ed’s work.

 

Nelson

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 12:14 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Nelson
My hat is definitely off to anyone who’s built 25 resin stockcars.  I’ve built under 10 and have 6 Westerfield kits on the shelf to do (4 MP and 2 RI). I dread sanding away the resin between the slats and then the cleanup of each board.  I’ll get to them eventually built but a resin boxcar kit seems to jump ahead of the stockcar queue every time.  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.

 


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Schleigh Mike
 

It is surely inspiring to see such prolific and fine model work, Nelson----

Thanks for sharing.  We should all feel motivated by your example.

Regards from Grove City in western Penna. where it has been snowing (Not an April Fool comment)----Mike Schleigh

On Friday, April 1, 2022, 02:38:50 PM EDT, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:


Actually, it should be 27 stock cars. I only reported the 24 Sunshine CB&Q and one Westerfield RI. There was also another ATSF Westerfield and a GN Speedwitch car that I forgot about. I batch built the Q stock cars, and that was a mind boggling experience. I built them before I started taking in progress photos, but it was something to see with 24 cars spread out on the workbench. I attached a photo of the Q string, plus closeups of the other cars. I included the SM-18 underframe photo because the Challenger brass import and the Sunshine kit instructions are both incorrect about placement of the AB brake components, probably because both relied upon the Hundman drawing. No correct mechanical drawing has surfaced, but Ed Rethswisch researched the brake layout when he built his Sunshine kits. He noticed the instruction placement didn’t match the available photos, and I was the beneficiary of Ed’s work.

 

Nelson

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 12:14 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Nelson
My hat is definitely off to anyone who’s built 25 resin stockcars.  I’ve built under 10 and have 6 Westerfield kits on the shelf to do (4 MP and 2 RI). I dread sanding away the resin between the slats and then the cleanup of each board.  I’ll get to them eventually built but a resin boxcar kit seems to jump ahead of the stockcar queue every time.  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.

 


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Gary Ray
 

That is impressive!  I’ve only tried two and still haven’t mastered the process of sanding them thin without damage to the steel trusses.  Put them aside for another day.  Will have to get back to them. 

 

Bravo!

 

Gary Ray

Azle, TX

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 1:39 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Actually, it should be 27 stock cars. I only reported the 24 Sunshine CB&Q and one Westerfield RI. There was also another ATSF Westerfield and a GN Speedwitch car that I forgot about. I batch built the Q stock cars, and that was a mind boggling experience. I built them before I started taking in progress photos, but it was something to see with 24 cars spread out on the workbench. I attached a photo of the Q string, plus closeups of the other cars. I included the SM-18 underframe photo because the Challenger brass import and the Sunshine kit instructions are both incorrect about placement of the AB brake components, probably because both relied upon the Hundman drawing. No correct mechanical drawing has surfaced, but Ed Rethswisch researched the brake layout when he built his Sunshine kits. He noticed the instruction placement didn’t match the available photos, and I was the beneficiary of Ed’s work.

 

Nelson

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 12:14 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Nelson
My hat is definitely off to anyone who’s built 25 resin stockcars.  I’ve built under 10 and have 6 Westerfield kits on the shelf to do (4 MP and 2 RI). I dread sanding away the resin between the slats and then the cleanup of each board.  I’ll get to them eventually built but a resin boxcar kit seems to jump ahead of the stockcar queue every time.  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.

 


Re: New York Central well-hole car

vapeurchapelon
 

Many thanks, Ed!
 
For that price and with the electrical pick-ups and the additional detail of brake cylinders and rods and leverage still no match for (a bunch of) freight cars - likely they have 36" wheels and a larger wheel base than the freight trucks - but good to know nonetheless! May be very useful for other projects! (I guess these trucks likely are from their CP 4-6-4 steam engine.)
 
Greetings
 
Johannes
 
Gesendet: Freitag, 01. April 2022 um 02:48 Uhr
Von: "Ed" <lehighman@...>
An: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Betreff: Re: [RealSTMFC] New York Central well-hole car
Regarding Buckeye trucks, it looks like Rapido sells one as well (#102111).

--
Ed Robinson


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Nelson Moyer
 

And apologies to Ed for misspelling Rethwisch in the first post

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 12:14 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Nelson
My hat is definitely off to anyone who’s built 25 resin stockcars.  I’ve built under 10 and have 6 Westerfield kits on the shelf to do (4 MP and 2 RI). I dread sanding away the resin between the slats and then the cleanup of each board.  I’ll get to them eventually built but a resin boxcar kit seems to jump ahead of the stockcar queue every time.  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Nelson Moyer
 

Actually, it should be 27 stock cars. I only reported the 24 Sunshine CB&Q and one Westerfield RI. There was also another ATSF Westerfield and a GN Speedwitch car that I forgot about. I batch built the Q stock cars, and that was a mind boggling experience. I built them before I started taking in progress photos, but it was something to see with 24 cars spread out on the workbench. I attached a photo of the Q string, plus closeups of the other cars. I included the SM-18 underframe photo because the Challenger brass import and the Sunshine kit instructions are both incorrect about placement of the AB brake components, probably because both relied upon the Hundman drawing. No correct mechanical drawing has surfaced, but Ed Rethswisch researched the brake layout when he built his Sunshine kits. He noticed the instruction placement didn’t match the available photos, and I was the beneficiary of Ed’s work.

 

Nelson

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 12:14 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Nelson
My hat is definitely off to anyone who’s built 25 resin stockcars.  I’ve built under 10 and have 6 Westerfield kits on the shelf to do (4 MP and 2 RI). I dread sanding away the resin between the slats and then the cleanup of each board.  I’ll get to them eventually built but a resin boxcar kit seems to jump ahead of the stockcar queue every time.  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.

 


Re: STILE BENDER

Douglas Harding
 

I placed an order with them last night about 9:30pm, had an email about 1am this morning saying the item was shipped with expected delivery in 3 days. A USPS tracking number was given from a PO in Ill. It will take me longer than to get around to using the new items for assembling freight cars.

 

Doug Harding

https://www.facebook.com/douglas.harding.3156/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK8X8Yb8NEAZqbZjHT5z0sA

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of fire5506 via groups.io
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 12:33 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] STILE BENDER

 

Are you talking about something like this? http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_225&products_id=28&osCsid=65d6da0e6d66f60a852de48fa53279d9
I saw that they were having problems shipping international but are shipping Express and priority mail, which I take as they are shipping to the US.


Richard 


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

O Fenton Wells
 

I have been going through the same issues but there is no kit for the Southern car.  And it has open slated ends. I haven't figured out how to scratch or bash them so far.
Fenton

On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 1:13 PM Charlie Duckworth <omahaduck@...> wrote:
Nelson
My hat is definitely off to anyone who’s built 25 resin stockcars.  I’ve built under 10 and have 6 Westerfield kits on the shelf to do (4 MP and 2 RI). I dread sanding away the resin between the slats and then the cleanup of each board.  I’ll get to them eventually built but a resin boxcar kit seems to jump ahead of the stockcar queue every time.  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: STILE BENDER

fire5506
 

Are you talking about something like this? http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_225&products_id=28&osCsid=65d6da0e6d66f60a852de48fa53279d9
I saw that they were having problems shipping international but are shipping Express and priority mail, which I take as they are shipping to the US.


Richard 


Re: ATSF boxcar with grain doors

Tony Thompson
 

Ken Vandevoort wrote:

I guess it would be prototypical to leave the doors open if the car was empty and the ripped paper was still there.
Most railroads had a directive that any open doors were to be closed for transit.

Tony Thompson
tony@...


Re: QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Charlie Duckworth
 

Nelson
My hat is definitely off to anyone who’s built 25 resin stockcars.  I’ve built under 10 and have 6 Westerfield kits on the shelf to do (4 MP and 2 RI). I dread sanding away the resin between the slats and then the cleanup of each board.  I’ll get to them eventually built but a resin boxcar kit seems to jump ahead of the stockcar queue every time.  
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Charlie Duckworth
 

The other guys already answered your question.  On the Mopac Sunshine Model, Westerfield and the Rock Express stockcar there’s no vertical surface for the horizontal wood slats to glue against. If you glue them to the end of the car you run the risk of someone picking the car up and popping the glue joint loose.  By gluing the 1” x 10” inside it gives a shelf for the horizontal shapes to butt up against for extra strength. 

On Fri, Apr 1, 2022 at 10:51 AM radiodial868 <radiodial57@...> wrote:
Charlie, I've built maybe a dozen resin stockcar kits, but gotta ask, what's a floating slat?
--
-------------------
RJ Dial

Mendocino, CA


--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


QARE: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

Nelson Moyer
 

I was about to post my method for attaching stock car sides to ends on flat kits, then this question popped up. I’m not Charlie, but floating slats are all of the slats between the top and bottom slat which he glues to the ends first. The stick aligns the unglued (floating) slats with the top and bottom slats.

 

Now for my method. I drape a small piece of wax paper over the end of a wood 2x2, place the side on top of the 2x2 with the end held against the end of the 2x2. Than I glue the top and bottom slats just like Charlie. After the CA cures enough to hold, I tack glue the rest of the slats to the ends. If you have trouble holding the sides and ends together, you can clamp the side to the wood block and just hold the end while gluing. I make two side/end pieces, then glue the two together. To do that, I clamp a piece of 1x2 to the workbench, put a small piece of wax paper over the edge, hold the side/end joint together, and apply CA to all of the slats. Repeat this for the other corner, closing the box. After the CA has cured, I apply another application or gap filling CA to all of the joints on the inside of the car. This method has worked for 25 flat kit stock cars, with properly aligned slats.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of radiodial868
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 10:51 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Speaking of stockcars…sharing a trick

 

Charlie, I've built maybe a dozen resin stockcar kits, but gotta ask, what's a floating slat?
--
-------------------
RJ Dial

Mendocino, CA


Re: STILE BENDER

Bruce Smith
 

RJ, Folks

 

Actually, you just need to change your technique a little and the etch bending tool such as the etchmate work great. I learned this from Pierre’s video.

 

I place the stile on an outside edge – where the top and bottom of the tool stop at the same point – with the stile half in and half out of the tool, longitudinally. I then push that edge of the tool onto a hard surface (I have a small piece of aluminum plate on my desk) at a slight angle to start the bend and then just push it straight down. It takes less time to do than to describe and works great every time. I can see where the UMM tool is doing the same thing, with perhaps a little more control, but I just wanted to point out that the etchmate type tools are actually very easy and functional for bending stiles.

 

Regards,

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of radiodial868 <radiodial57@...>
Reply-To: "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Friday, April 1, 2022 at 10:48 AM
To: "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] Re: [RealSTMFC] STILE BENDER

 

CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.

That was me with a UMM issue. Got it to work this morning.

Last night, whenever you hit the Checkout button, it would dump the contents of your cart, log you out, and put you back on this page.  Rinse, Repeat...

Evidently it got fixed during the night. 
I ordered this (among other things) for the YMW stiles:
MN004 UMM™ 3D Photo Etch Elbow Bender

I have a Mission Models Etchmate, but all it does is mangle the stiles. Requires you to push a razor blade underneath the etching and then fold up, all the while trying to keep the edge of the razor blade from moving.  Bogus. The blade usually gets wedged.
This little UMM guy behaves more like a conventional sheet metal brake.
--
-------------------
RJ Dial

Mendocino, CA

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