Date   

Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

David
 

I have to wonder: would the full 1930s-era lettering package have still been around in 1953, or would the car have been repainted in a simplified scheme by then?

David Thompson


Baggage Car As An Airplane Parts Carrier

Bob Chaparro
 

Baggage Car As An Airplane Parts Carrier

This is a photo of a baggage car converted into an airplane parts carrier and rolling promotional billboard.

It was employed in 1911 by Armour & Company to support an airplane entered in a coast-to-coast contest in which the plane and the baggage car promoted Vin Fiz, a grape-flavored drink. This was one of several drinks marketed by Armour.

Newspaper publisher William Randolph Hurst made an offer of $50,000 to the first person who could fly a plane from New York to Los Angeles in under 30 consecutive days. Calbraith "Cal" Perry Rogers took up the challenge, sponsored by Armour.

To keep the plane running, Armour outfitted the baggage car, emblazoned with Vin Fitz advertising and loaded with airplane parts. It took Rogers 56 days to cross the country.  He crashed so often that there were very few original parts left on the plane when he finally made it to Los Angeles. Even so, he and the flying collection of plane parts were the first to cross the United States from coast to coast.

And Vin Fiz? It never really took off. Apparently, people didn’t like the taste.

The plane hangs in the Smithsonian.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railway Bull Shippers Group

https://groups.io/g/RailwayBullShippersGroup


Re: Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Robert kirkham
 

looks great - I enjoy how the weathering on the roof and siding brings the car to life.

Rob


On Jun 12, 2022, at 10:08 AM, Charlie Duckworth via groups.io <Worth51@...> wrote:

I’ve been fighting an infection so lots of indoor time on my second prescription hopefully that kicks it soon as I’m not suppose to be in the sun.   Anyway decided to pass the time by finishing the second Branchline reefer kit that was recently given to me.  I scraped away the reweight date of 1937 and bumped it up to 1953 and changed load limit and tare weights slightly.  I wanted to experiment with the brown Vallejo wash and after a light coat of Dullcote mixed with Black and Tan over the carbody I watched the ‘how to’ video again and added some wash around some of the metal pieces.  Watching other videos on how to make your own washing there’s alcohol in the mixture and it seems to settle into the Dullcote pretty quickly so something to watch using it.   I scraped off the Dullcote on a few boards to break up the sides and aged the roof with gray, brown and black pencils.   

As I mentioned with the NWX kit I’d forgot how well these kits were designed. The ice hatch mechanism was very scale like.  Enough typing here’s the car.<9C0E5213-BBEE-4900-8540-8FB41FD256FC.jpeg><E669C594-17A3-4980-B727-6EA5469F3C7B.jpeg><CCE6D4B8-2C81-4FEA-96A9-8538119B2D3A.jpeg><F4180348-2F8F-4F4A-9BCF-FA30C0D73FB5.jpeg>
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.



Re: Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Todd Sullivan
 

I do most of my weathering with acrylic paints, ustabe Polyscale, now craft acrylics (not my favorite paint, but cheap and available).  For solid bearing trucks' wheel faces, I start out with black, and add a bit of BCR and a tiny touch of orange for the faces.   My goal is a not-quite-black look that has a brownish tone for the outer faces.  The inner wheel faces and axles get a more orange tone that is lighter, based on various field observations and photos.  I try to harmonize that color with the color of the underbody, since I figure they would all be getting the same coating of guck.

I agree that rusty wheel faces are a modern thing, and when I see them on a model freight car from the steam era, I know the modeler isn't looking carefully at photos of the prototype.  That's not meant to be a jab at anyone, it's just that I learned along time ago, on the advice of modelers who were more accomplished than I, that consulting photos is really important.

Todd Sullivan


Re: Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Tony Thompson
 

Nowadays I prefer Tamiya “German Grey” for wheel faces.

Tony Thompson
tony@...


Re: Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Charlie Duckworth
 

I mix my black dry pigments with paint thinner and a little brown and paint the outside of the wheels; it drys black pretty quickly.  

On Sun, Jun 12, 2022 at 7:26 PM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer_at_hotmail.com_Worth51@...> wrote:
I started out painting wheel faces a dark rusty color mixed from Floquil Rust and Roof Brown. The backs of the wheels were painted the same as the faces. Then I scrubbed powdered black chalk onto the

I started out painting wheel faces a dark rusty color mixed from Floquil Rust and Roof Brown. The backs of the wheels were painted the same as the faces. Then I scrubbed powdered black chalk onto the wheel faces to blacken them. Chalk scrubbing is a dirty business, so I always did wheels separately before putting them into the side frames. After Floquil went away, I switched to Model Master Skin Tone Dark Tint as the base color for the front face, and Model Master Dark Tan for the rest. I used black Pan Pastel for the finish when I weathered the car. I have enough Model Master to last a lifetime, since my roster is nearly complete.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2022 4:22 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

 

Really nice weathering, Charlie, as on all your cars. But, we need to have a discussion about weathering wheels. Rusty wheel plates is a modern, post roller bearing thing. Solid bearings used a 'total loss' lube system, where after the oil was drawn up between the axle and bearing, a portion migrated out the back of the journal box (there was no oil seal) where ti was flung out on the face of the wheel. Of course, anything oily in a dusty environment quickly builds a coating of oily grunge. Those cast iron wheels might have started out rusty, but they didn't stay that way long.

What is everyone's favorite wheel color?

Dennis Storzek

 


--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Nelson Moyer
 

I started out painting wheel faces a dark rusty color mixed from Floquil Rust and Roof Brown. The backs of the wheels were painted the same as the faces. Then I scrubbed powdered black chalk onto the wheel faces to blacken them. Chalk scrubbing is a dirty business, so I always did wheels separately before putting them into the side frames. After Floquil went away, I switched to Model Master Skin Tone Dark Tint as the base color for the front face, and Model Master Dark Tan for the rest. I used black Pan Pastel for the finish when I weathered the car. I have enough Model Master to last a lifetime, since my roster is nearly complete.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2022 4:22 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

 

Really nice weathering, Charlie, as on all your cars. But, we need to have a discussion about weathering wheels. Rusty wheel plates is a modern, post roller bearing thing. Solid bearings used a 'total loss' lube system, where after the oil was drawn up between the axle and bearing, a portion migrated out the back of the journal box (there was no oil seal) where ti was flung out on the face of the wheel. Of course, anything oily in a dusty environment quickly builds a coating of oily grunge. Those cast iron wheels might have started out rusty, but they didn't stay that way long.

What is everyone's favorite wheel color?

Dennis Storzek

 


Branchline URTX reefer (posting a correction)

Charlie Duckworth
 
Edited

Dennis and Doug
I appreciate your feedback, since looking at Les’ UTLX reefer (same road number btw) I masked off the M&StL rectangle and painted the triangle red.  Dennis the wheels are now period blacked too (thanks).  I also noticed I’d missed painting the door locking mechanism the color of the carbody so that was fixed as well.
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Tim O'Connor
 


I call it "muck" or "really mucky muck" :-)

The last 3 wheels on this B&O wheel flat are the color I use for most wheels. I usually use
a touch of "rusty muck" on the back side of the wheels and on the inner axle.

Tim

What is everyone's favorite wheel color?
Dennis Storzek

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: ATSF Fe-13 Heartburn!

Tim O'Connor
 


Champ made a large number of very high-fidelity ATSF 40 foot and 50 foot map sets for box cars
and for SFRD refrigerator cars. They were in the BRH- and HB- groups. They included straight and
curved maps. Probably lots of them still out there... :-)

On 6/12/2022 4:48 PM, Tom Lawler wrote:

Hi Everyone,

I’ve had Sunshine kit 73.x, 12’ 4” IH for decades and finally built the car. Advertised into the ‘50’s but now that I have got it all built and painted I checked my July ‘50 ORER and none are on the roster. Sigh. Apparently the raised roof was removed pre July 1950. It is too cool not to use. A high cube in 1950. I am still going to use the car. 

The decals that came with the car leave something to be desired. The map appears to be oversized compared to the pic in the PDS. You can barely get the dimensional data on the car with the provided map. I ordered a Microscale ATSF 50’ sheet in hopes of fixing that issue. The bigger issue is the way oversized “This car excess height….” lettering (in yellow). It’s at least 50% too big and just not going to fit either on the A or B end of the car. Anyone who built this car got ideas on getting around this issue? 

Thanks,

Tom

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Charlie Duckworth
 

Dennis
Thanks, having worked for a Class One for 38 years I was going off memory.  Easy fix. Thanks 

On Sun, Jun 12, 2022 at 4:22 PM Dennis Storzek <dennis_at_accurail.com_Worth51@...> wrote:
Really nice weathering, Charlie, as on all your cars. But, we need to have a discussion about weathering wheels. Rusty wheel plates is a modern, post roller bearing thing. Solid bearings used a 'total
Really nice weathering, Charlie, as on all your cars. But, we need to have a discussion about weathering wheels. Rusty wheel plates is a modern, post roller bearing thing. Solid bearings used a 'total loss' lube system, where after the oil was drawn up between the axle and bearing, a portion migrated out the back of the journal box (there was no oil seal) where ti was flung out on the face of the wheel. Of course, anything oily in a dusty environment quickly builds a coating of oily grunge. Those cast iron wheels might have started out rusty, but they didn't stay that way long.

What is everyone's favorite wheel color?

Dennis Storzek

--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Dennis Storzek <dennis@...>
 

Really nice weathering, Charlie, as on all your cars. But, we need to have a discussion about weathering wheels. Rusty wheel plates is a modern, post roller bearing thing. Solid bearings used a 'total loss' lube system, where after the oil was drawn up between the axle and bearing, a portion migrated out the back of the journal box (there was no oil seal) where ti was flung out on the face of the wheel. Of course, anything oily in a dusty environment quickly builds a coating of oily grunge. Those cast iron wheels might have started out rusty, but they didn't stay that way long.

What is everyone's favorite wheel color?

Dennis Storzek


ATSF Fe-13 Heartburn!

Tom Lawler
 

Hi Everyone,

I’ve had Sunshine kit 73.x, 12’ 4” IH for decades and finally built the car. Advertised into the ‘50’s but now that I have got it all built and painted I checked my July ‘50 ORER and none are on the roster. Sigh. Apparently the raised roof was removed pre July 1950. It is too cool not to use. A high cube in 1950. I am still going to use the car.

The decals that came with the car leave something to be desired. The map appears to be oversized compared to the pic in the PDS. You can barely get the dimensional data on the car with the provided map. I ordered a Microscale ATSF 50’ sheet in hopes of fixing that issue. The bigger issue is the way oversized “This car excess height….” lettering (in yellow). It’s at least 50% too big and just not going to fit either on the A or B end of the car. Anyone who built this car got ideas on getting around this issue?

Thanks,

Tom


Re: Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Charlie Duckworth
 

Doug
Thanks, I’ve got a bottle of Vallejo flat red so I’ll correct it.  Appreciate the information. 

On Sun, Jun 12, 2022 at 1:29 PM Douglas Harding <iowacentralrr_at_gmail.com_Worth51@...> wrote:
Nice weathering Charlie. There is one small error, not your fault, but rather Branchline's fault. The MSTL herald had three colors, and should have a half red rectangle. As no one makes the correct si
Nice weathering Charlie. There is one small error, not your fault, but rather Branchline's fault. The MSTL herald had three colors, and should have a half red rectangle. As no one makes the correct sized herald, the only recourse is to hand paint the herald. Les Breuer did just that as reported in his blog http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/2020/06/union-refrigerator-transit-line-95503.html 

Doug Harding
Youtube: Douglas Harding Iowa Central Railroad


On Sun, Jun 12, 2022 at 12:08 PM Charlie Duckworth via groups.io <Worth51=duck.com@groups.io> wrote:

I’ve been fighting an infection so lots of indoor time on my second prescription hopefully that kicks it soon as I’m not suppose to be in the sun.   Anyway decided to pass the time by finishing the second Branchline reefer kit that was recently given to me.  I scraped away the reweight date of 1937 and bumped it up to 1953 and changed load limit and tare weights slightly.  I wanted to experiment with the brown Vallejo wash and after a light coat of Dullcote mixed with Black and Tan over the carbody I watched the ‘how to’ video again and added some wash around some of the metal pieces.  Watching other videos on how to make your own washing there’s alcohol in the mixture and it seems to settle into the Dullcote pretty quickly so something to watch using it.   I scraped off the Dullcote on a few boards to break up the sides and aged the roof with gray, brown and black pencils.   

As I mentioned with the NWX kit I’d forgot how well these kits were designed. The ice hatch mechanism was very scale like.  Enough typing here’s the car.
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.

Attachments:


--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Tim O'Connor
 


So Westerfield never did the M&StL paint scheme for this car?

On 6/12/2022 2:29 PM, Douglas Harding wrote:

Nice weathering Charlie. There is one small error, not your fault, but rather Branchline's fault. The MSTL herald had three colors, and should have a half red rectangle. As no one makes the correct sized herald, the only recourse is to hand paint the herald. Les Breuer did just that as reported in his blog http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/2020/06/union-refrigerator-transit-line-95503.html 

Doug Harding


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Paul Doggett
 


Charlie 

Another great looking car.

Paul Doggett 

On 12 Jun 2022, at 18:36, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:



Very nice, Charlie. The washes really bring out the board detail.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2022 12:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

 

I’ve been fighting an infection so lots of indoor time on my second prescription hopefully that kicks it soon as I’m not suppose to be in the sun.   Anyway decided to pass the time by finishing the second Branchline reefer kit that was recently given to me.  I scraped away the reweight date of 1937 and bumped it up to 1953 and changed load limit and tare weights slightly.  I wanted to experiment with the brown Vallejo wash and after a light coat of Dullcote mixed with Black and Tan over the carbody I watched the ‘how to’ video again and added some wash around some of the metal pieces.  Watching other videos on how to make your own washing there’s alcohol in the mixture and it seems to settle into the Dullcote pretty quickly so something to watch using it.   I scraped off the Dullcote on a few boards to break up the sides and aged the roof with gray, brown and black pencils.   

As I mentioned with the NWX kit I’d forgot how well these kits were designed. The ice hatch mechanism was very scale like.  Enough typing here’s the car.image001.jpgimage002.jpgimage003.jpgimage004.jpg
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Douglas Harding
 

Nice weathering Charlie. There is one small error, not your fault, but rather Branchline's fault. The MSTL herald had three colors, and should have a half red rectangle. As no one makes the correct sized herald, the only recourse is to hand paint the herald. Les Breuer did just that as reported in his blog http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/2020/06/union-refrigerator-transit-line-95503.html 

Doug Harding
Youtube: Douglas Harding Iowa Central Railroad


On Sun, Jun 12, 2022 at 12:08 PM Charlie Duckworth via groups.io <Worth51=duck.com@groups.io> wrote:

I’ve been fighting an infection so lots of indoor time on my second prescription hopefully that kicks it soon as I’m not suppose to be in the sun.   Anyway decided to pass the time by finishing the second Branchline reefer kit that was recently given to me.  I scraped away the reweight date of 1937 and bumped it up to 1953 and changed load limit and tare weights slightly.  I wanted to experiment with the brown Vallejo wash and after a light coat of Dullcote mixed with Black and Tan over the carbody I watched the ‘how to’ video again and added some wash around some of the metal pieces.  Watching other videos on how to make your own washing there’s alcohol in the mixture and it seems to settle into the Dullcote pretty quickly so something to watch using it.   I scraped off the Dullcote on a few boards to break up the sides and aged the roof with gray, brown and black pencils.   

As I mentioned with the NWX kit I’d forgot how well these kits were designed. The ice hatch mechanism was very scale like.  Enough typing here’s the car.
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: ADMIN: STMFC Groups.io Fees

Dave Nelson
 

Jeff, Paypal has a donation method that provides a url for setting up donations.  These are operated by Paypal as an annual donation – they’ll donate once every 12 months.  People who sign up to make a donation can cancel their subscription at any time.  This allows people who want to let the donaction run for an extended time to do so… and those who wish to make a one time donation to do that.

 

With the number of members here and the price  you need to cover I’ll guess a $5 would cover a substantial portion your expenses, perhaps all.

 

Dave Nelson

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Aley, Jeff A
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2022 6:55 PM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] ADMIN: STMFC Groups.io Fees

 

Hi Folks,

 

               On June 3, 2022, I paid the $220.00 annual renewal to Groups.io for RealSTMFC.  Our group is a “Premium” group (as defined by Groups.io), which means that we have plenty of storage, so our emails and attachments don’t get lost / deleted.

 

               I paid last year’s fees ($220.00) out of pocket, and if I remember correctly, the fees for 2020 were paid by a member who wishes to remain anonymous.

 

               There are ways for me to solicit money from the membership using a Groups.io feature, but that requires me to give Groups.io a bunch of my bank account information – no thanks.  I do, however, have a PayPal account.  So, if anyone wishes to donate a few bucks, he can send it to me on PayPal using my email address, which is jaley at comcast dot net.

 

Thanks, and back to Freight Cars!

 

-Jeff Aley

Deputy Moderator, RealSTMFC

 


Re: Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Charlie Duckworth
 

Fenton
The roof ends and sides are all one piece so lots of saw work to get to the roof.  Just FYI..
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


Re: Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

Nelson Moyer
 

Very nice, Charlie. The washes really bring out the board detail.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Charlie Duckworth via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2022 12:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

 

I’ve been fighting an infection so lots of indoor time on my second prescription hopefully that kicks it soon as I’m not suppose to be in the sun.   Anyway decided to pass the time by finishing the second Branchline reefer kit that was recently given to me.  I scraped away the reweight date of 1937 and bumped it up to 1953 and changed load limit and tare weights slightly.  I wanted to experiment with the brown Vallejo wash and after a light coat of Dullcote mixed with Black and Tan over the carbody I watched the ‘how to’ video again and added some wash around some of the metal pieces.  Watching other videos on how to make your own washing there’s alcohol in the mixture and it seems to settle into the Dullcote pretty quickly so something to watch using it.   I scraped off the Dullcote on a few boards to break up the sides and aged the roof with gray, brown and black pencils.   

As I mentioned with the NWX kit I’d forgot how well these kits were designed. The ice hatch mechanism was very scale like.  Enough typing here’s the car.
--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.

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