Date   

Re: Stock car models ATSF Sk-U

Brian Paul Ehni <behni@...>
 

And this is the method recommended by Al Westerfield on his stock car kits.
Remember that the board depth is what's important, so if you just go far
enough to make the flash fall out, that's perfect.
--
Brian Ehni

From: Bruce Smith <smithbf@...>
Reply-To: <STMFC@...>
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 07:56:22 -0500
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: Stock car models [STMFC] ATSF Sk-U


On Oct 24, 2004, at 11:53 PM, Tom Casey wrote:
Take a sheet of wet/dry sand paper (about 160 or 180 grit) lay it on
a good
flat surface.  Place the back (inside) of the stock car side down on
the sand
paper and work it back and forth over the sand paper.  Use light even
strokes,
vary the location of your finger tips around the sides as you sand
the sides. 
After a short while, the remaining flash is so thin that you can
literally
blow/brush it away, yet, the slats are still the proper thickness. 
Instead of
the time it takes to clean each slat space individually, this method
takes
around 15 to 20 minutes per side, and leaves a "crisper" looking
result.
This IS a great way to get the sides cleaned out, but one word of
caution... I was happily sanding away on one when I was momentarily
distracted by the six year old. Apparently, my sanding hand just kept
going, and when I looked back, I had sanded right through a couple of
boards. Of course, I think I will just make this into a car BADLY in
need of new boards, or I may just cut the board out completely. add a
new one, and make it look like an on-the-road repair <G>.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin
Franklin
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0







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Stock car models ATSF Sk-U

Bruce Smith <smithbf@...>
 

On Oct 24, 2004, at 11:53 PM, Tom Casey wrote:
Take a sheet of wet/dry sand paper (about 160 or 180 grit) lay it on
a good
flat surface.  Place the back (inside) of the stock car side down on
the sand
paper and work it back and forth over the sand paper.  Use light even
strokes,
vary the location of your finger tips around the sides as you sand
the sides. 
After a short while, the remaining flash is so thin that you can
literally
blow/brush it away, yet, the slats are still the proper thickness. 
Instead of
the time it takes to clean each slat space individually, this method
takes
around 15 to 20 minutes per side, and leaves a "crisper" looking
result.
This IS a great way to get the sides cleaned out, but one word of
caution... I was happily sanding away on one when I was momentarily
distracted by the six year old. Apparently, my sanding hand just kept
going, and when I looked back, I had sanded right through a couple of
boards. Of course, I think I will just make this into a car BADLY in
need of new boards, or I may just cut the board out completely. add a
new one, and make it look like an on-the-road repair <G>.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin
Franklin
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: B&O wagontops

armprem
 

Ed,Where is volume 10 ?Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Hawkins" <hawk0621@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] B&O wagontops




On Sunday, October 24, 2004, at 12:33 PM, Clyde Williams wrote:

Volume Nine of the Railway Prototype Encyclopedia (RPCyc) has an
extensive article on both the M-15 conversions and the M-53s. It also
covers the C-16 head end wagontops.
Unfortunately, it is out of print but hopefully you can get borrow a
copy or get a Xerox of the article, possibly from the B&O Historical
Society.
Bill Williams
Bill,
The above information about Vol. 9 being out of print isn't correct. RP
CYC Publishing Co. has Vol. 9 readily available and they can be ordered
by mailing a check/money order to PO Box 451, Chesterfield, MO
63006-0451 or by visiting one of about 100 shops across the US that
carries the books. If your dealer is out of stock, please remind them
that stock should be replenished. If your dealer doesn't stock RP CYC,
that can easily be remedied by having them contact us. By the way, Vol.
11 is in work and Pat and I plan to have it available early 2005. I
will advise the STMFC when we are closer to printing.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins





Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: ATSF Sk-U

Darren Plants <dplants@...>
 

I had actually heard that from someone else as well. I tried it and got the
flash fairly thin, but being my first try I got a little nervous about going
too far and ruining the kit. Still I think it made the job easier. Maybe
next time I'll get a bit more daring. Thanks for the tip.

Darren Plants

Cleaning the slats out of the stock car sides IS a pain if you chose to do
each one-by-one, however, there's a much easier way to accomplish this
task!

Take a sheet of wet/dry sand paper (about 160 or 180 grit) lay it on a
good
flat surface. Place the back (inside) of the stock car side down on the
sand
paper and work it back and forth over the sand paper. Use light even
strokes,
vary the location of your finger tips around the sides as you sand the
sides.
After a short while, the remaining flash is so thin that you can literally
blow/brush it away, yet, the slats are still the proper thickness.
Instead of
the time it takes to clean each slat space individually, this method takes
around 15 to 20 minutes per side, and leaves a "crisper" looking result.

Tom Casey


Re: ATSF Sk-U

Jon Miller <atsf@...>
 

Again the paint would be an era thing. I would suspect in my era it
would be black. Later on it could be Mineral brown.

Jon Miller
AT&SF
For me time has stopped in 1941
Digitrax, Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI user
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: ATSF Sk-U

Darren Plants <dplants@...>
 

Ben and Steve, thanks very much for your help. As I'm a fairly recent
convert to prototype modeling my library is far from complete. Always
another ten books to buy. Thanks again.

Darren Plants


Re: B&O wagontops

Ed Hawkins
 

On Sunday, October 24, 2004, at 12:33 PM, Clyde Williams wrote:

Volume Nine of the Railway Prototype Encyclopedia (RPCyc) has an
extensive article on both the M-15 conversions and the M-53s. It also
covers the C-16 head end wagontops.
Unfortunately, it is out of print but hopefully you can get borrow a
copy or get a Xerox of the article, possibly from the B&O Historical
Society.
Bill Williams
Bill,
The above information about Vol. 9 being out of print isn't correct. RP CYC Publishing Co. has Vol. 9 readily available and they can be ordered by mailing a check/money order to PO Box 451, Chesterfield, MO 63006-0451 or by visiting one of about 100 shops across the US that carries the books. If your dealer is out of stock, please remind them that stock should be replenished. If your dealer doesn't stock RP CYC, that can easily be remedied by having them contact us. By the way, Vol. 11 is in work and Pat and I plan to have it available early 2005. I will advise the STMFC when we are closer to printing.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Re: Mainline Modeler October 2004: CP 55525-56024

Ian Cranstone
 

On 24-Oct-04, at 7:49 PM, Benjamin Hom wrote:


Patrick Lawson's article "Canadian Pacific Railway Box Car 55525-56024" in
the October 2004 issue of Mainline Modeler states that these cars were built
in 1938. However, this date or the car series is most certainly in error,
as these cars are described as having 4/4 Improved Dreadnaught ends and
diagonal panel roofs. The drawing accompanying the article shows a 10 ft 6
in car with R+3/4 early Improved Dreadnaught ends, diagonal panel roof, and
7 ft Youngstown door. The photos accompanying the article are of CP 57622
and 59112, cars outside of the quoted series with NSC ends.
The 55525-56024 series were constructed by Canadian Car & Foundry from 12/57-1/58 (the other cars are from the 57525-58024 series, constructed by National Steel Car from 5-7/60 and the 58475-59174 series, constructed by National Steel Car from 7-9/61 -- this latter series being the last 40' steel boxcars constructed for CPR).

I haven't had a close look at the drawings, but that 1938 date is very strange. I haven't measured the drawing to be sure, but that door should be an 8' version, which had become standard on Canadian railways by about 1956.

When I get a chance, I guess I'll have to do some digging through photos and compare drawn features with the real thing...

Ian & Katherina Cranstone
Osgoode, Ontario, Canada
lamontc@...


Re: ATSF Sk-U

Steve Sandifer <jssand@...>
 

Of the color still photos I have seen, I have yet to see an ATSF stock car with a black roof. Of course, most of the color photos come from the late 50s and 60s when the black roof would have been uncommon anyway.

I have reviewed a color film tonight made from 1947. One scene taken from a cupola shows two stock cars which are clearly "weathered black" to my eyes. Most shots are from the ground which makes determining roof color difficult, but they do appear black in many cases.

The Santa Fe Painting and Lettering Guide states, "Mineral brown paint with coarse red-brown granules sprinkled onto it while wet began to replace anti-slip black in 1951, but black car cement with either black or red-brown granules continued to be applied to some car rooms for several years in the early to mid-fifties."

For 1956, I would suggest that either would be appropriate. If you are doing a heavily weathered car, have a black roof. If you are doing a newly repainted car, do it solid mineral brown. In either case, the roof walk would be mineral brown.

--------------------
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Dr., Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417
Personal: http://users2.ev1.net/~jssand/index.htm
Church: http://www.swcentral.org
Railway: http://www.trainweb.org/jssand
Webmaster: http://www.ATSFRR.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Darren Plants
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 7:47 PM
Subject: [STMFC] ATSF Sk-U


I just started my first resin stock car, a Sunshine ATSF Sk-U. After
spending the better part of my Saturday evening cleaning flash out of the
slats, I need somebody to remind that this hobby is fun....... I have a
couple of questions for the collective wisdom here. First, it appears the
Accurail "Bettendorf" truck would be correct for this car. Can anyone
confirm or correct this. Second is regarding the color of the roof. The PDS
with the kit says " a black (roof) color became predominate in the fifties.
It is not clear that the anti-skid surface was always applied" Richard
Hendrickson's article in RMJ states "this was not standard practice on stock
cars, most of which had mineral brown roofs." I can't seem to find a clear
shot of the roof from my era (1956). Can anyone provide some more specific
info. Thanks for the assistance.

Darren Plants


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Re: ATSF Sk-U

Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...>
 

Darren Plants wrote:
"I just started my first resin stock car, a Sunshine ATSF Sk-U. After
spending the better part of my Saturday evening cleaning flash out of the
slats, I need somebody to remind that this hobby is fun."

The flash cleanup is always the toughest part of a resin stock car kit, and
given the lack of variety available in injection molded plastic kit (even
with the new Intermountain Santa Fe models), a necessary evil.


"I have a couple of questions for the collective wisdom here. First, it
appears the Accurail "Bettendorf" truck would be correct for this car. Can
anyone confirm or correct this?"

Yes, as confirmed by the builder's photo of ATSF 60543 on page 25 of Frank
Ellington's "Stock Cars of the Santa Fe Railway".


"Second is regarding the color of the roof. The PDS with the kit says " a
black (roof) color became predominate in the fifties. It is not clear that
the anti-skid surface was always applied" Richard Hendrickson's article in
RMJ states "this was not standard practice on stock cars, most of which had
mineral brown roofs." I can't seem to find a clear shot of the roof from my
era (1956). Can anyone provide some more specific info?"

According to Richard Hendrickson's "Santa Fe Railway Painting and Lettering
Guide for Model Railroaders," "Mineral brown paint with coarse red-brown
granules sprinkled onto it while wet began to replace anti-slip black in
1951." I didn't turn up any color overhead views c. 1956; color photos in
the Morning Sun ATSF Color guide taken in the late 1960s and early 1970s
show either mineral red roofs or unpainted galvanized roof panels with
mineral red carlines.


Ben Hom


Re: B&O wagontops

Brian Paul Ehni <behni@...>
 

I got one from Ted Schnepf @ Rails Unlimited in early September.

The usual disclaimers apply.
--
Brian Ehni

From: rrbobby <rkngmn@...>
Reply-To: <STMFC@...>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 20:13:02 -0000
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: B&O wagontops



--- In STMFC@..., "Clyde Williams" <billdgoat@i...> wrote:

Volume Nine of the Railway Prototype Encyclopedia (RPCyc) has an
extensive article on both the M-15 conversions and the M-53s. It
also
covers the C-16 head end wagontops.
Unfortunately, it is out of print but hopefully you can get borrow
a
copy or get a Xerox of the article, possibly from the B&O
Historical
Society.
Bill Williams
According to RPCyc's web site, volume 9 is still availible and can be
ordered from them.

http://geocities.com/rpcyc/home.html

Bob Kingman







Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: ATSF Sk-U

tyesac@...
 

In a message dated 10/24/2004 7:50:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
dplants@... writes:
I just started my first resin stock car, a Sunshine ATSF Sk-U. After
spending the better part of my Saturday evening cleaning flash out of the
slats, I need somebody to remind that this hobby is fun.......
Darren,

Cleaning the slats out of the stock car sides IS a pain if you chose to do
each one-by-one, however, there's a much easier way to accomplish this task!

Take a sheet of wet/dry sand paper (about 160 or 180 grit) lay it on a good
flat surface. Place the back (inside) of the stock car side down on the sand
paper and work it back and forth over the sand paper. Use light even strokes,
vary the location of your finger tips around the sides as you sand the sides.
After a short while, the remaining flash is so thin that you can literally
blow/brush it away, yet, the slats are still the proper thickness. Instead of
the time it takes to clean each slat space individually, this method takes
around 15 to 20 minutes per side, and leaves a "crisper" looking result.

Tom Casey


ATSF Sk-U

Darren Plants <dplants@...>
 

I just started my first resin stock car, a Sunshine ATSF Sk-U. After
spending the better part of my Saturday evening cleaning flash out of the
slats, I need somebody to remind that this hobby is fun....... I have a
couple of questions for the collective wisdom here. First, it appears the
Accurail "Bettendorf" truck would be correct for this car. Can anyone
confirm or correct this. Second is regarding the color of the roof. The PDS
with the kit says " a black (roof) color became predominate in the fifties.
It is not clear that the anti-skid surface was always applied" Richard
Hendrickson's article in RMJ states "this was not standard practice on stock
cars, most of which had mineral brown roofs." I can't seem to find a clear
shot of the roof from my era (1956). Can anyone provide some more specific
info. Thanks for the assistance.

Darren Plants


Re: B&O wagontops

armprem
 

How about volume 9 ?Arm

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Hawkins" <hawk0621@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] B&O wagontops




On Sunday, October 24, 2004, at 12:33 PM, Clyde Williams wrote:

Volume Nine of the Railway Prototype Encyclopedia (RPCyc) has an
extensive article on both the M-15 conversions and the M-53s. It also
covers the C-16 head end wagontops.
Unfortunately, it is out of print but hopefully you can get borrow a
copy or get a Xerox of the article, possibly from the B&O Historical
Society.
Bill Williams
Bill,
The above information about Vol. 9 being out of print isn't correct. RP
CYC Publishing Co. has Vol. 9 readily available and they can be ordered
by mailing a check/money order to PO Box 451, Chesterfield, MO
63006-0451 or by visiting one of about 100 shops across the US that
carries the books. If your dealer is out of stock, please remind them
that stock should be replenished. If your dealer doesn't stock RP CYC,
that can easily be remedied by having them contact us. By the way, Vol.
11 is in work and Pat and I plan to have it available early 2005. I
will advise the STMFC when we are closer to printing.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins





Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: CGW roof

rockroll50401 <cepropst@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., Ted Culotta <tculotta@s...> wrote:

On Oct 24, 2004, at 6:51 AM, Clark Propst wrote:

  Yesterday I attended a swap meet in the Twin Cities
Saturday, a
guy
had question about the Sunshine CGW 1932 kit. The instructions
have a
nice photo showing the roof. The panel lines on the roof line up
with
the rivet lines on the side of the car. The roof in the kit does
not,
also the kit roof appears to have seam caps at the panel joints.
He
had a flat panel roof he had bought from Stan Rydarowicz. The
panel
seams lined up with the side rivets on Stan's roof, but Stan's
roof
has a line between panels and has a line of rivets.
  The question is: Which roof should be used on the model?
Thanks,
Clark Propst
PS I have this kit and need to know if I need to buy a roof from
Stan
this weekend.
Clark:

The roof in Martin's kit is an 11-panel riveted flat roof that goes
with the SAL, WRT and NC&StL cars. The CGW, NdeM and Soo cars had
12-panel flat roofs, which Martin's kits do not have. Stan's roof,
although I have not seen it, is probably a good starting point,
provided that you remove the "stuff" in the center of the panels as
you
described.

Regards,
Ted Culotta
Okay? We'll talk about it this weekend. Now, the Sunshine kit is
$30+ and Stan's roof is another $8 and we haven't bought any trucks
or couplers yet...this hobby is too rich for my blood :)
Clark


photo of GTW rebuilt boxcar, circa 1954

Andy Carlson
 

GTW 48K low resolution color scan of GTW 441761 A, an
Automobile single door boxcar. Built in 5-29, rebuild
date of 4-47, last reweigh of 1954. Anyone who would
like a copy sent, reply to this email Off-Line
(please) at < midcentury@... >

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Mainline Modeler October 2004: CP 55525-56024

Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...>
 

Patrick Lawson's article "Canadian Pacific Railway Box Car 55525-56024" in
the October 2004 issue of Mainline Modeler states that these cars were built
in 1938. However, this date or the car series is most certainly in error,
as these cars are described as having 4/4 Improved Dreadnaught ends and
diagonal panel roofs. The drawing accompanying the article shows a 10 ft 6
in car with R+3/4 early Improved Dreadnaught ends, diagonal panel roof, and
7 ft Youngstown door. The photos accompanying the article are of CP 57622
and 59112, cars outside of the quoted series with NSC ends.

What's the real story with this series of CP cars? For a two page article,
it's confusing as hell.


Ben Hom


Re: You Guys Got It Wrong

Denis F. Blake <dblake2996@...>
 

John and all

I have been away for a couple of days doing some work for my employeer Norfolk Southern, so my reply is a bit late on this..

John is dead right here. It seems like an eternity but it has really been precious few years since we were ushered into the truly modern ages, actually, the Golden Age, of model railroading. We have what amounts to a virtually unlimited range of kits from various manufacturers,in several mediums, range of quality and skills necessary to build these car. Yet, there are some who choose to bemoan the price of these cars. I suggest that these folks look at the way things were way back in the dark ages, I dare to say the mid to late 80's.

Manufacturers, small and large, have stepped up to the plate and provided us with a range of kits that just a few years ago was unimaginable. It seems like every week or two these days we are blessed with a new offering from one of these manufacturers. With the increasing selection came a battle for our dollars. This leads to one manufacturer trying to trump the other with regard to realism and fidelity of scale. Unfortunately, this also leads to a rise in prices as the tooling become more and more involved to provide us with the detail and accuracy that we demand now.

If you want to really give yourself a reality slap in the face go to your kit pile and pull out an IMWX kit...GREAT kits back then, still pretty nice today. OK, now pull out a Branchline kit and check out the details...WOW, what a difference, much finer detail...Of course there is large cost associated with this as well. Then, if you take into account the rising cost of tooling, inflation, regulations, etc., etc. you can more clearly see why the prices are going up.

Also, and this goes to those bemoaning the new resin kits. Check out the difference between one of those kits and the 80's stuff available from the resin manufacturers of the time. Again, a huge difference in quality and details.

Finally, there is the time factor. As all of you know time is something that we are all only given so much in day. These manufacturers spend a great deal of their time to give us the products that we demand. Just how do you put a value on that time?

I am stepping off of my soapbox and heading back to the basement.

Denis F. Blake

----- Original Message -----
From: John Golden
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 9:07 PM
Subject: [STMFC] You Guys Got It Wrong


Brothers,

With two kids and work kicking my butt every day, I
have little time to do much other than lurk on the
list. But I must comment on the recent thread
concerning all the new resin cars.

Have many of you fogotten where we were 25 years ago?
What's the point of complaining about resin car
prices--heck, I thank the good Lord that they're out
there, and that I can afford a few. The new offerings
from F&C, the Ribside Cars, cabooses everywhere, the
terrific Kadee cars, continuous new offerings from
Sunshine and W'Field, and--dare I say--even some
pretty nice things coming out of Walthers. Man, this
is the life. Enjoy it.

In 1980 I was kit-smashing Athearn cars by the dozens.
Weren't you? Thanks goodness there are bold men making
us great models today.

Enough Venting,
John

John Golden
O'Fallon, IL

=====


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Re: Domion car

ajfergusonca <ajferguson@...>
 

I agree with you about the centre beam Allen, but I'm not sure
about the floor. There is some room to lower it compared to the
side sills, but even if the floor was lowered, the relationship
between the bottom of the centre sill and the top of the truck side
frames and wheels would remain out by several scale inches. In any
event, your "fix" is certainly one way to go at it.

I guess I should add here that I have half a dozen Westerfield
Fowler cars in the old dark grey metal filled resin. I used the
wrong shape of grab irons in these 10 years ago or more and mangled
some when trying to fix them. So now I have a box of Fowler floors
waiting for a home. I see the Hobbycraft car as one way to put it
all together and get two for the price of one (er, two).


The problem is the height of the truck's center. If you use the
westerfield floors will you have to change trucks to match the
lowered floor bolster? The first cars I built were a sort of dark
green and I don't think you can file the bolster down easily,
they'll just shatter. As Alan states the roof is at the right height.

Allen Ferguson


Re: B&O wagontops

Tom Houle <thoule@...>
 

The November, 1982 issue of Mainline Modeler has comprehensive text and photo documentation plus S scale drawings for the M-53 cars. I used this material to build an O scale replica. My construction article ran in the Nov., 1997 issue of Mainline Modeler where Bob Hundman ran the car drawings again - this time in HO scale. Great looking car even on my WI fifties branchline.
Tom Houle

----- Original Message -----
From: rrbobby
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 3:13 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: B&O wagontops



--- In STMFC@..., "Clyde Williams" <billdgoat@i...> wrote:
>
> Volume Nine of the Railway Prototype Encyclopedia (RPCyc) has an
> extensive article on both the M-15 conversions and the M-53s. It
also
> covers the C-16 head end wagontops.
> Unfortunately, it is out of print but hopefully you can get borrow
a
> copy or get a Xerox of the article, possibly from the B&O
Historical
> Society.
> Bill Williams

According to RPCyc's web site, volume 9 is still availible and can be
ordered from them.

http://geocities.com/rpcyc/home.html

Bob Kingman




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