Date   

Re: decaling Westerfield models

Schuyler Larrabee
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Hendrickson [mailto:rhendrickson@...]

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model . . . .

Brian carlson
Brian . . . . I usually use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with
water first,
I bet Richard left out the word "distilled," as in "distilled water" because
regular tap water has lots of salts and other crud in it which will show up on
your model as water spots. So, to a degree, will the glue on the decal, but
nowhere as much. Distilled water is available at the grocery store and at
stores like CVS. Cheap too.

SGL


Re: decaling Westerfield models

Ted Culotta <tculotta@...>
 

On Dec 19, 2004, at 4:53 PM, Richard Hendrickson wrote:

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model.  What decal
>setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals.  I have
>Solvaset, Champ setting solution, and Microscale,both  Micro sol and
>Micro Set, setting solutions.
>
>Thanks in advance
>Brian carlson
>
Brian, the Rail Graphics decals included in Westerfield kits aren't
especially fragile (unlike older Microscale decals, which tend to
disintegrate if you even look cross-eyed at them), though all decals
need
to be handled carefully, of course.  In my experience, all of the
setting
fluids you identify will work, but you want to be careful with full
strength Champ decal set, as it's the most potent of the lot.  I
usually
use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with water first, which
should get everything settled in place, and then go back with full
strength
Champ used sparingly to get rid of bumps and bubbles.  But I've also
used
Solvaset and Micro-Sol/Micro-Set in the past with good results.
Brian:

In addition to Richard's comments. one thing I do that eliminates any
marring of the decals is to not add setting solution until after the
decals have dried completely. Then, I just touch the edges of the
decals with a brush with the solution. The solution runs under the
decals. Once this application has dried completely, I then go back and
really bathe them in solution. At that point, they are affixed pretty
well except for bubbles that need to be pierced or cut. I use full
strength Champ with this approach and have not had issues.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
100 14th Avenue, San Mateo, CA 94402
info@...
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912


Re: Salvaging drytransfers?

WBa2485811@...
 

In a message dated 12/19/04 12:11:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
pierre.oliver@... writes:

Pierre
Somtimes there is a problem with them not coming off, Just keep burnishing
them as you would a transfer. it should work.

I have used the clear film methos for years for transfers, becuse somtimes
thats all there is, but prefer to use them as a decal because the placement is
easier.

Bill


Re: decaling Westerfield models

Richard Hendrickson
 

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What decal
setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals. I have
Solvaset, Champ setting solution, and Microscale,both Micro sol and
Micro Set, setting solutions.

Thanks in advance
Brian carlson
Brian, the Rail Graphics decals included in Westerfield kits aren't
especially fragile (unlike older Microscale decals, which tend to
disintegrate if you even look cross-eyed at them), though all decals need
to be handled carefully, of course. In my experience, all of the setting
fluids you identify will work, but you want to be careful with full
strength Champ decal set, as it's the most potent of the lot. I usually
use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with water first, which
should get everything settled in place, and then go back with full strength
Champ used sparingly to get rid of bumps and bubbles. But I've also used
Solvaset and Micro-Sol/Micro-Set in the past with good results.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


decaling Westerfield models

Brian Carlson
 

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What decal
setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals. I have
Solvaset, Champ setting solution, and Microscale,both Micro sol and
Micro Set, setting solutions.

Thanks in advance
Brian carlson


Re: Grabs

Paul Lyons
 

Overland also made a nice brass bracket grab, but they have been discontinued
and no amount of prodding will get them to do a re-run. I think Bill Welsh
and myself have captured what supply was left in hobby shops across the country.
Paul Lyons
Laguna Niguel, CA


Märklin/Trix HP Tank Cars

Richard Hendrickson
 

Ian Clasper kindly sent me a raft of detail shots of these new models, and
I have to say that I am seriously disappointed. Previous models of U.S.
prototypes from M/T have incorporated a variety of errors, in addition to
what Mike Brock aptly describes as their "Alpha Centauri" couplers, but
most of the die work for the injection moldings was very good. By
contrast, the new tank cars look like something AHM would have had produced
in Hong Kong thirty years ago.

Owing to the truck-mounted toy train couplers, the tank car models sit way
too high on their trucks. This, of course, can be corrected. However,
almost all of the details are oversize and very heavy, conspicuously the
platform and railings, brake rigging, uncoupling levers (though at least
they're there), etc. Especially noticeable are the flanges at the end of
the tank where the sheet metal jacket over the insulation was riveted
together; these were very thin on the prototype, and almost have to be a
bit oversize in HO scale, but on the T/M model they're about a scale foot
thick and look awful. The equivalent flanges on Athearn's forty year old
"chemical" tank car model are much better executed (though of course the
Athearn model has numerous other shortcomings).
The T/M models are being made in China and we know the Chinese can do much
better than this, as demonstrated by the models they're making for
Life-Like, so the Germans have to take responsibility.

I have the distinct impression that M/T have become arrogant and complacent
owing to their dominance of the toy train market in Europe and have neither
much understanding of nor much respect for the serious scale modeler market
in North America. It's one thing to sell Kadee quality models for $30+,
quite another to ask those kinds of prices for models that fall far short
of current state of the art. I'm especially aware of the deficiencies of
these M/T tank car models because I'm currently "Beta testing" a couple of
pre-production Intermountain stock car kits which are a notable example of
how far the best manufacturers have come in producing dead-on accurate,
elaborately detailed, and delicately molded models in injection-molded
styrene. All I can say is that I hope the M/T models will not discourage
some other manufacturer from producing high quality models of these
important and interesting prototype cars. If the Germans aren't
embarrassed by this shabby effort, they should be.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: Athearn News

Richard Hendrickson
 

Richard, Our the Athearn Allied FC trucks nicer than the Hallmark last run
brass ones?
Paul Lyons
Liguna Niguel, CA
I haven't seen one of the Hallmark trucks for years, but I'm sure that, in
terms of appearance and prototype fidelity, the Athearn trucks are at least
as good if not better. And unlike the Hallmark (or most other) brass
trucks, they actually roll very well, a significant advantage if you're not
building models for static display.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: Salvaging drytransfers?

pierreoliver2003 <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Bill,
I was considereing following that path. Any suggestions for assuring
that the transfers will stick to the clear decal film?
Pierre Oliver


Hello:

Don't treat them as transfers. Get some blank decal film and try to
transfer
them to that and then apply clear liquid decal film.

If this works use them as a decal.

Bill



Re: 1942-42 color Yard photos (Jack Delano)

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Al Westerfield reports-

My information on the cars is that after the take-over of URT by GAT, cars when repainted were done in GAT colors, orange sides and black roof and ends. Certainly the MILW leased cars in the 1940s were those colors.
This seems to be correct.

John Greedy, the ranking expert on the Milwaukee reefers, monitors this list when he can. Perhaps he will chime in.

Denny



--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, California


Salvaging drytransfers?

pierreoliver2003 <pierre.oliver@...>
 

I've run into a problem with some dry transfers.
They've been sealed in their plastic envelope since they were made.
Yet when I went to apply them to the car side, the decals wouldn't
transfer onto the carside. I've had this problem with dry transfers
that were unsealed , thus allowed to dry out. But never with sealed
dry transfers. Since it seems that these particular dry transfers are
no longer available, does anyone have suggestions for salvaging these
decals.
Thanks,
Pierre Oliver


Re: FS: Moody's Indistrials, 1962

Tim Gilbert <tgilbert@...>
 

A search of http://www.bookfinder.com yields for Moody's Industrial yield two alternatives: - one, a 1965 Manual for $125.00, and the other, a 1958 Manual for $150.00.

Tim Gilbert

Dave Nelson wrote:

Hard to find and the price shows that. Don't know seller.

Dave Nelson

-----Original Message-----

1. Moody's Industrial Manual by John Sherman Porter Moody's Investors
Service, 1962 Hard Cover. Very Good Clean Solid Copy. First Edition.
The price of the book is US$ 200.00
Please reference the seller's book # 006768 when ordering.

The seller is Nancy's Books
PO BOX 287 , Washington, NJ, U.S.A., 07882.
<mailto:nancysbooks@...>
Terms of sale: Terms: I accept personal or business checks or money orders
in U.S. dollars, or drawn on a U.S. bank. Please make check/money order
payable to: Nancy Blahnik. New Jersey residents please add 6% state sales
tax. There are two ways to process your order electronically. You may use a
credit card through ABE COMmerc, by selecting the book, and putting in your
credit card info (See bottom left of this page). I also accept payments
through PayPal. I cannot process a credit card transaction any other way.
Shipping: Orders shipped United States Postal Service unless otherwise
requested. Orders within the United States: $4.00 (Book Rate + Insurance)
for 1st book + $1.00 for each additional book. Add $1.50 to each book for
USPS Priority mail. International orders: shipped surface mail unless
otherwise requested. $6.00 for first book + 2.00 for each additional book.
Allow 2-12 weeks for out-of-country shipping. International airmail also
available with shipping charges adjusted. For large orders, postage,
insurance & handling will be billed at cost. All shipments within the United
States are insured to protect the buyer against shipping loss or damage. In
the event of damage or loss, we will provide the buyer with the insurance
receipt so that the buyer may file an insurance claim with USPS. If
insurance is needed for purchases shipped outside of America, please inquire
as to the post office costs. Ordering Info: Payment is due within 7 calendar
days of our 'order confirmation email'. Each of our books has a unique
seller's book id #. Please put this item # on your order. Books are
returnable for a full refund within 10 days if not as described, not
including postage. They must be returned in original condition.


Re: Intermountain Latest PFE R-30-18

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Paul Lyons wrote:
I was up at the Whistle Stop in Pasadena yesterday and grabbed one of
Intermountain's latest RTR releases, a PFE R-30-18 with post 1952 paint. Preoccupied
with other things I did not look the model over carefully till I got home.
With a close review I knew something was visually wrong, but wasn't sure exactly
what. A quick review of Tony's PFE book and a double check(no offense Tony)
of Dick Smith's PFE painting article in an early "Streamliner" confirmed the UP
hearld should be black and white, not red, white, and blue as done on the
model. Am I missing something here or.....Marty say it isn't so!
The B&W medallion for UP was introduced in June, 1950, so if it's a post-1952 paint job it sure should be B&W.
I would urge caution, BTW, with Dick Smith's article, as it contains a number of assumptions on Dick's part which are stated by him as facts. If you want to make use of it, please also consult the "corrective" I published in _The Streamliner_ in Volume 2, No. 2 (April 1986).

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


MILW STEEL BOXCAR AT UNION, IL

ZOE@...
 

GROUP:

Could some one tell me what the car number is on the MILW horizontal rib
boxcar that is preserved at Union, IL.

Thanks in advance, Mont Switzer


FS: Moody's Indistrials, 1962

Dave Nelson <muskoka@...>
 

Hard to find and the price shows that. Don't know seller.

Dave Nelson

-----Original Message-----

1. Moody's Industrial Manual by John Sherman Porter Moody's Investors
Service, 1962 Hard Cover. Very Good Clean Solid Copy. First Edition.
The price of the book is US$ 200.00
Please reference the seller's book # 006768 when ordering.

The seller is Nancy's Books
PO BOX 287 , Washington, NJ, U.S.A., 07882.
<mailto:nancysbooks@...>
Terms of sale: Terms: I accept personal or business checks or money orders
in U.S. dollars, or drawn on a U.S. bank. Please make check/money order
payable to: Nancy Blahnik. New Jersey residents please add 6% state sales
tax. There are two ways to process your order electronically. You may use a
credit card through ABE COMmerc, by selecting the book, and putting in your
credit card info (See bottom left of this page). I also accept payments
through PayPal. I cannot process a credit card transaction any other way.
Shipping: Orders shipped United States Postal Service unless otherwise
requested. Orders within the United States: $4.00 (Book Rate + Insurance)
for 1st book + $1.00 for each additional book. Add $1.50 to each book for
USPS Priority mail. International orders: shipped surface mail unless
otherwise requested. $6.00 for first book + 2.00 for each additional book.
Allow 2-12 weeks for out-of-country shipping. International airmail also
available with shipping charges adjusted. For large orders, postage,
insurance & handling will be billed at cost. All shipments within the United
States are insured to protect the buyer against shipping loss or damage. In
the event of damage or loss, we will provide the buyer with the insurance
receipt so that the buyer may file an insurance claim with USPS. If
insurance is needed for purchases shipped outside of America, please inquire
as to the post office costs. Ordering Info: Payment is due within 7 calendar
days of our 'order confirmation email'. Each of our books has a unique
seller's book id #. Please put this item # on your order. Books are
returnable for a full refund within 10 days if not as described, not
including postage. They must be returned in original condition.


Ben Hom, please contact me offlist

Mike Brock <brockm@...>
 

Ben, please contact me off list.

Thanks,

Mike Brock


Re: 1942-42 color Yard photos (Jack Delano)

Westerfield <westerfield@...>
 

Richard - When I visited GAT years ago they gave me the name of an retired employee who actually painted the cars. I called him. That's the source of my info. Of course, we all know how good memory is plus how rigorously painting specs are followed. - Al Westerfield
Al, that's interesting, and makes sense, and seems to be validated by the
Delano photos. However, I have one color shot of a URTX Milw. wood reefer
(with wood roof) dated 1946 with postwar lettering in which the roof and
ends are unmistakably mineral red. I wonder if the change coincided with
the adoption of the new, simpler sans-serif lettering scheme?

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520



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web site

Westerfield <westerfield@...>
 

We think we've corrected a flaw in our email that prevented modelers from using the "email order" button to order freight cars (appropriate content). May I ask that some of you help me with a test - particularly aol users. Send me an order with just your name and then send me a regular email saying you sent the order. Web site is www.westerfield.biz and email is westerfield@charter .net Thanks very much. - Al Westerfield


Re: Salvaging drytransfers?

WBa2485811@...
 

Hello:

Don't treat them as transfers. Get some blank decal film and try to transfer
them to that and then apply clear liquid decal film.

If this works use them as a decal.

Bill


Intermountain Latest PFE R-30-18

Paul Lyons
 

I was up at the Whistle Stop in Pasadena yesterday and grabbed one of
Intermountain's latest RTR releases, a PFE R-30-18 with post 1952 paint. Preoccupied
with other things I did not look the model over carefully till I got home.
With a close review I knew something was visually wrong, but wasn't sure exactly
what. A quick review of Tony's PFE book and a double check(no offense Tony)
of Dick Smith's PFE painting article in an early "Streamliner" confirmed the UP
hearld should be black and white, not red, white, and blue as done on the
model. Am I missing something here or.....Marty say it isn't so!
Paul Lyons
Laguna Niguel, CA

157961 - 157980 of 194620