Date   

Re: F&C Pennsy GR gon sits too low? Or couplers?

David J. Starr <dstarrboston@...>
 

Dean Payne wrote:
I just finished my F&C GR gon, and the couplers sit lowest I have ever seen. I used archbars to represent my early time period (pre-
WWII), and Walthers archbars at that. The couplers are McHenry scale couplers in Kadee boxes (I had a few left over...) Is this a matter of shimming the bolsters, or using different (offset head) couplers? I might do both... unless you think those trucks sit especially low... I don't want the car too sit too high above the wheels, unless that's the way it should be. This was a poor choice for a first resin kit, I have finished a few other resin kits since then, including F&C! Their instructions have improved since this kit, to be fair. Dean Payne
Low flying couplers are common enough. The right way to fix them is first to determine to proper height of the car itself. From protoype plans or photos find the distance from the sill to the rail heads. If the model is low, check the wheelsize and if that is OK, shim the body up to the proper height. Then check coupler height and use an offset coupler head if necessary.
That said, I don't usually go to that much trouble. The legacy Athearn cars all have low couplers and I routinely put a couple of #6 flat washers under the trucks to get a #5 (no offset) Kadee to ride at the proper height.


David Starr


Re: F&C Pennsy GR gon sits too low? Or couplers?

Brian Carlson
 

Dean, you may want to Check the PRRTHS TKM #4, 11-03 where Elden Gatwood covered modeling these cars in resin, while I couldn't really tell if he shimed his cars (At least one was the Sunshine model though) you make be able to with your car in hand.

Brian J carlson

Dean Payne <deanpayne@...> wrote:

I just finished my F&C GR gon, and the couplers sit lowest I have
ever seen. I used archbars to represent my early time period (pre-
WWII), and Walthers archbars at that. The couplers are McHenry
scale couplers in Kadee boxes (I had a few left over...) Is this a
matter of shimming the bolsters, or using different (offset head)
couplers? I might do both... unless you think those trucks sit
especially low... I don't want the car too sit too high above the
wheels, unless that's the way it should be.
This was a poor choice for a first resin kit, I have finished a few
other resin kits since then, including F&C! Their instructions have
improved since this kit, to be fair.
Dean Payne






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Re: BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS

Tim O'Connor
 

I have a one-piece G22 with a warped body (longitudinal twist - about
3/16" end to end). I know how to straighten flat parts; how does one
straighten bodies without flattening them?
Doug Brown
I straightened out an F&C gondola body by placing it on a flat piece
of glass with heavy weights on top and heating it to 150 degrees in
the oven and then letting it cool slowly. I was told you can heat the
bodies in water and get good results but I've never tried it. The F&C
castings were thick and I don't know if this will work with thinner,
closer to scale gondola bodies.

Tim O.


Re: BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS

Doug Brown <brown194@...>
 

I have a one-piece G22 with a warped body (longitudinal twist - about
3/16" end to end). I know how to straighten flat parts; how does one
straighten bodies without flattening them?

Doug Brown

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Carlson [mailto:prrk41361@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 11:00 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS


Frank, as a followup to Jack's message, a good Westerfield one piece
body kit to start with is a model of the PRR G22 gondola car. It was
the first one I built and went together real easy.

Brian Carlson

Jack Wyatt <cjwyatt@...> wrote:
<<Can anyone recommend a good primer on building the newer resin or
urethane kits? Any suggestions for an easy first kit? I haven't
built anything for quite a while and am more familiar with the older
wood ones.

Thanks,

Frank>>

Frank,

A good place to start would be to go to Westerfield's site,
http://www.westerfield.biz , and order a one-piece body kit, along with
a
"how-to" video at a discounted price with the kit.

Jack Wyatt


Re: IM M&StL box cars

Brett Whelan
 

Thanks Gene Green, Tim, & Gene Deimling,

For your help on this

Brett Whelan
Australia.



--- cf5250 <timboconnor@...> wrote:


Gene Deimling wrote

... you can buy the lettering for this car from
CDS and
possibly Greg Komar.

Greg Komar produces white lettering set for the 1937
AAR
car, and a yellow lettering set for the postwar AAR
cars
with 10' inside height (series 4000-5298).

CDS produces a set with yellow lettering circa 1952,
but
I don't know whether the data corresponds to the
prewar,
or postwar, designs.

Tim O'Connor





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Re: BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS

Paul Lyons
 

A hair dryer on low heat and a little patience twisting and turning with ones
fingers.
Paul Lyons
Laguna Niguel, CA


Re: SP PS-2 cov'd hoppers

George Hollwedel <georgeloop1338@...>
 

Does anyone know of an as built, or builders photo for the T&NO cars listed below?

Ed Hawkins <hawk0621@...> wrote:
Lee,
In short, the answer is a bunch.


T&NO 3675-3899, built 1-54, 2893 c.f., H-70-12


Regards,
Ed Hawkins



George Hollwedel
Prototype N Scale Models
georgeloop@...
310 Loma Verde Street
Buda, TX 78610-9785
512-796-6883

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F&C Pennsy GR gon sits too low? Or couplers?

Dean Payne <deanpayne@...>
 

I just finished my F&C GR gon, and the couplers sit lowest I have
ever seen. I used archbars to represent my early time period (pre-
WWII), and Walthers archbars at that. The couplers are McHenry
scale couplers in Kadee boxes (I had a few left over...) Is this a
matter of shimming the bolsters, or using different (offset head)
couplers? I might do both... unless you think those trucks sit
especially low... I don't want the car too sit too high above the
wheels, unless that's the way it should be.
This was a poor choice for a first resin kit, I have finished a few
other resin kits since then, including F&C! Their instructions have
improved since this kit, to be fair.
Dean Payne


Re: BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS

C J Wyatt
 

<<Frank,

Jack's suggestion is an excellent one, to which I might add consider
something as simple as a flat car kit, Sunshine has several different
varieties. They
are simple cars but sill involve getting used to the common elements of
building one of these type of cars.

Tom C>>


Unfortunately it takes about 4 months to receive a mail order kit from
Sunshine. You definitely have to plan ahead with your Sunshine projects
unless you are fortunate enough to catch Martin at a show.

Jack Wyatt


Re: BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS

Brian Carlson
 

Frank, as a followup to Jack's message, a good Westerfield one piece body kit to start with is a model of the PRR G22 gondola car. It was the first one I built and went together real easy.

Brian Carlson

Jack Wyatt <cjwyatt@...> wrote:
<<Can anyone recommend a good primer on building the newer resin or
urethane kits? Any suggestions for an easy first kit? I haven't
built anything for quite a while and am more familiar with the older
wood ones.

Thanks,

Frank>>

Frank,

A good place to start would be to go to Westerfield's site,
http://www.westerfield.biz , and order a one-piece body kit, along with a
"how-to" video at a discounted price with the kit.

Jack Wyatt



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Re: BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS

C J Wyatt
 

<<Can anyone recommend a good primer on building the newer resin or
urethane kits? Any suggestions for an easy first kit? I haven't
built anything for quite a while and am more familiar with the older
wood ones.

Thanks,

Frank>>

Frank,

A good place to start would be to go to Westerfield's site,
http://www.westerfield.biz , and order a one-piece body kit, along with a
"how-to" video at a discounted price with the kit.

Jack Wyatt


BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS

ponef0 <fje63@...>
 

Can anyone recommend a good primer on building the newer resin or
urethane kits? Any suggestions for an easy first kit? I haven't
built anything for quite a while and am more familiar with the older
wood ones.

Thanks,

Frank


ACF Ctr Flo

raildata@...
 

My digging into the ACF Ctr Flo 2790 pressurized cars continues. Been in
contact with Jim Eager and also John Tudek (ex DRGW carman who volunteers at the
Co RR Museum) and we still are delving into the mystery of cars 15993-15999.

I have DRGW folio sheet for these cars but that is all the data we can find,
aside from a few phtos. (Interestingly, there are no folio sheets for any of
the other DRGW
2 bay ACF ctr flow cars). Tudek has a lot of DRGW general arrangment
drawings and we have some at the Museum, but nothing for these. Did get a set of ACF
drawings from CNW society but not the pressurized version.


What I am looking for is views of the pressurized cars that show the piping
and fittings added for the pressure connections. Possibly you may have some
slides or shots of the Corning cars that might show such detail. I have a fair
number of views from which I can surmise the arrangment of these fittings but
want to be sure. So any help would be appreciated.

On the previous discussion of hides and tanneries, I am positive that all the
hides for the EJ and other tanneries were coming from the midwest and west.
The cars I remember were primarily NP and CNW. I recall a small Swift plant at
Halstead on the DL&W. In 1953-4 they were still receiving stock cars...but
shipping out by truck.
A recent book I was reading on the meat packing industry confirmed my
observations that byWW2 the only slaughter hosues in the east were small ones
disposed of "retired" dairy cattle and provided kosher products. Know this was true
in my home town of Scranton.

For what it is worth, the lst car of loaded stock I saw in Binghamton was an
NKP car that was right behind a brand new EL SD45, one of the first the EL
got.

All the best,

Chuck Y


Re: BUILDING CRAFTSMAN KITS

tyesac@...
 

In a message dated 1/8/2005 10:01:55 AM Central Standard Time,
cjwyatt@... writes:
<<Can anyone recommend a good primer on building the newer resin or
urethane kits? Any suggestions for an easy first kit? I haven't
built anything for quite a while and am more familiar with the older
wood ones.

Thanks,

Frank>>

Frank,

A good place to start would be to go to Westerfield's site,
http://www.westerfield.biz , and order a one-piece body kit, along with a
"how-to" video at a discounted price with the kit.

Jack Wyatt
Frank,

Jack's suggestion is an excellent one, to which I might add consider
something as simple as a flat car kit, Sunshine has several different varieties. They
are simple cars but sill involve getting used to the common elements of
building one of these type of cars.

Tom C


Re: Trix NYC 19000 series caboose

DRGW482@...
 

In a message dated 1/7/2005 10:55:45 P.M. Central Standard Time,
ddermody@... writes:

forty dollar model


$40?..... tsssss....

Martin


Re: SSW 20000-20099 Boxcars

oliver
 

--- In STMFC@..., Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@s...> wrote:
It too is built July 1941, and re-weighed 12 56 at P.B., whereever
that is.

Pine Bluff?
Stefan


Re: Trix NYC 19000 series caboose

Richard Dermody <ddermody@...>
 



--- In STMFC@..., DRGW482@a... wrote: What is the
problem?

The cupola is too short besides all the other defficiencies you
mentioned. The grabs are too thick and must be plastic; wire would
have looked much better but would have required a separate painting
step.

Next to the Walthers cabooses(and even Trix's own UP caboose) this
looks like a toy.

So overall, its not a bad model, is it? Not perfect, but for me
its definitely an alternative to a $150 brass piece.

Maybe die hard NYC fans will buy it but I doubt anyone else will.

15-20 years ago Gloor offered a kit for these cabooses. I don't
think it was ever part of the QualityCraft line - the castings were
coarser - but it built up to a nice caboose. I've never seen it but
years before KVal hobbies in Buffalo, NY offered an HO NYC caboose
kit; Maybe it's the original of the Gloor model.

Ed
Ed,

The K-Val caboose was unique in using epoxy castings for the cupola, ends,
windows and steps among other parts. It was not the original for the Gloor
model, which was a different model with more traditional wood parts and
metal castings. More recently, an outfit called Water Level Models produced
an injection molded model produced from aluminum molds. It had its own
difficulties.

The MR review (and Workshop corrections) were fine as far as they went, but
they missed more than a few items, among them;

Poorly modeled and detailed truss rod underframe.

A strange artifact at the top of the center window.

Incorrect modeling of the walks at the side of the cupola.

There are others, but the main exception I take to the MR review is that
they made no comment on the fact that a forty dollar model shouldn't have
this level or errors and/or corrections required.

How many errors have you seen cited in a typical review of a less expensive
Kadee car?

Dick


Re: SP PS-2 cov'd hoppers

Ed Hawkins
 

On Friday, January 7, 2005, at 04:00 PM, Lee A. Gautreaux wrote:

List,

Were any of the SP/SSW/T&NO's 2 or 3 bay PS cov'd hoppers built as
PS-2's? I think that they were, I just wanted to get verification.
I'm specifically asking about 3-bay classes H-70-12 and -14.
Lee,
In short, the answer is a bunch.

SP 400750-401099, built 7-55, 2893 c.f., H-70-14
SP 401100-401349, built 3-57, 2003 c.f., H-70-16
SP 401350-401549, built 3-58, 2003 c.f., H-70-18
SP 490000-490099, built 9-59, 3219 c.f., H-100-1
SSW 76075-76149, built 10-55, 2893 c.f.
SSW 76500-76699, built 7-59, 3219 c.f.
SSW 76700-76799, built 11-59, 3219 c.f.
SSW 77075-77099, built 10-55, 2003 c.f.
SSW 77100-77199, built 10-57, 2003 c.f.
T&NO 3425-3674, built 1957, 2003 c.f., H-70-16
T&NO 3675-3899, built 1-54, 2893 c.f., H-70-12
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


SSW 20000-20099 Boxcars

Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...>
 

Oops, I should have read the message more clearly - that reply was directed to Tim, not Shawn,

Rob Kirkham


Re: SSW 20000-20099 Boxcars

Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...>
 

Aw Gee, Shawn, I thought I was starting to know about these cars!

Seriously, Richard Hendrickson shared a lovely shot of 20032 with me that clearly has the ACR sides. It too is built July 1941, and re-weighed 12 56 at P.B., whereever that is. My own photo of 20067 taken in 1946, which I put a low res scan of in files section of STMPFC (did I get that right?) under "Cotton Belt" is not so clear but suggests the rivets. And then Richard and Bill Kelly both agreed this was an ACR car.

I'll send you a scan for comparison to the one in your collection.

Rob Kirkham

----- Original Message -----
From: cf5250
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 1:27 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: SSW 20000-20099 Boxcars



Rob Kirkham wrote

> Thanks Shawn, it does help. In combination with everything else
> others have provided, and a bunch of rivets scraped from some old
> Athearn car, it seems a do-able project for an interesting car.


What are the rivets for Rob? I don't think these cars had A.C.R.
sides. At least, they don't show up in a good 1959 photo I have
of SSW #20028. This photo shows the short-lived DF emblem with
black background and orange letters/outline. SP also applied such
emblems to some of the nearly identical B-50-22 50 ft box cars.


> Here is the scoop on SSW 20000-20099:
>
> Builder: SSW, probably at Pine Bluff, AR
> Built Date: July, August 1941
> Inside Length: 50'6"
> Inside Height: 10'6"
> Door Opening: 8'0" Wide x 9'11" High
> Ends: Dreadnaught S.R.E.M. Co.
> Roofs: Murphy S.R.E.M. Co.
> Running Boards: Morton
> Doors: Camel
> End Doors: Camel (SSW 20095-20099 Only)
> Trucks: ASF Self-Aligning, Spring Plankless
> Capacity: 50 Tons, 4901 Cu. Ft.
> Hand Brakes: Champion

> Hope this helps,
> Shawn Beckert






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