Date   

Bowser hopper

Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
 

I saw a Bowser add for a PRR two bay hopper while browsing the
magazine rack at the hobby shop today. The spotting features (to me) are
a box type end sill, vertical hand brake, and 7 side ribs. The M&StL had
several series of hoppers with these spotting features. The M&StL cars
came from the Clinchfield though Hyman-Michaels. One series was from CRR
40000-43749.
My question is; Are these cars like the Pennsy cars?
On the M&StL these cars were painted black. I walked past several coal
hoppers the other day and each one was a different shade of black! From
weathering of course?
Clark
P.S. I purchased the latest RMJ today. Thanks for the finally getting to
the CGW X29 type cars Richard. The article reminded me of when I would
buy a new Stones Album, I would first study the cover then listen to the
songs one at a time. I'm doing the same with this article. So far I've
looked at the pictures and read half the captions.


Merry Christmas

Mike Brock <brockm@...>
 

I would like to wish all you guys...that includes women....a very Merry
Christmas. I want to thank you all for a great year of freight car
discussions and I hope you all get the freight car of your choice for
Christmas. Assuming that you were all good this year, I guess that means
you'll find an N&W hopper in your stocking...although I have no idea what
you'll do with it if you live west of the Mississippi...unless you model in
the dark.

Hmmm. Anyone know how Santa gets into a house without a chimney?

Mike Brock
STMFC Owner


Re: Paint

Denis F. Blake <dblake3@...>
 

Norm

I guess it is all in what you are used to doing. Yes, there are clear clean
up advantages to the acrylic paints, nothing beats clean up with a bit of
water, does it. For my painting I simply shoot some thinner through the air
brush and that takes care of that.

Regards,

Denis F. Blake
Columbus, Ohio
TTHOTS

Visit my photosite at

http://hyperphoto.photoloft.com/view/allalbums.asp?s=cano&u=1665499

----- Original Message -----
From: "Norm Dresner" <ndrez@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Paint


Denis.

Well, the real advantage for me with acrylic paints is first the easy
cleanup and second the vast variety of colors that are available. I
have no real cleanup problems using a rattlecan of primer so I don't
think I've lost any of the advantages of the acrylic color medium.

Norm

For wooden & metal RR stuff, I still prefer Floquil for the base coat
and then acrylics for weathering. For plastic & resin I use what I
learned to do with (historical) model cars and modern planes, which is
to use the primer before spraying the acrylic as the main coat. (For
modern cars, nothing beats the enamels which can be polished to a
mirror finish).

Norm

----- Original Message -----
From: Denis F. Blake <dblake3@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Paint


Norm

This sort of defeats what some will claim is the purpose of using
the
acrylic paints in the first place, doesn't it...Personally, I am a
custom
painter, and where ever possible I still stick to the original
Scalecoat,
the best of the best, or Floquil. I played with water based paints
when I
was a kid. They were a mess then and they are still a mess today as
well.
Gee, some things just never change.

Denis F. Blake
Columbus, Ohio
TTHOTS

Visit my photosite at

http://hyperphoto.photoloft.com/view/allalbums.asp?s=cano&u=1665499


----- Original Message -----
From: "Norm Dresner" <ndrez@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Paint


Almost any time I use acrylic paint (on anything from bare metal
to
hydrocal), I first spray a light but complete coat of Testor's
Model
Master White Primer from the rattle can. It itself is an enamel
but
it gives acrylic paint a tremendous surface to grab onto.

Norm

----- Original Message -----
From: Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 12:34 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Paint


Merry Christmas everybody!
I've been working on the kits I bought a Naperville and am down
to
the
last one. My Question is; Is there a trick to spraying acrylic
paint
on
resin? I have been painting for over 25 years, but am an FNG on
acrylic
paint. I bought two of the single sheath cars Martin was
selling, a
RI
and a Q. The instructions (that's a poor term) say to use Badger
paint.
This beaded up on the RI car so I washed it off and painted it
with
Floquil. I have tried to wash the Q car better, but would like
to
know a
little more before I try Badger on it.
Thanks to all and to all good night.
Clark


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Re: Paint

Norm Dresner <ndrez@...>
 

Denis.

Well, the real advantage for me with acrylic paints is first the easy
cleanup and second the vast variety of colors that are available. I
have no real cleanup problems using a rattlecan of primer so I don't
think I've lost any of the advantages of the acrylic color medium.

Norm

For wooden & metal RR stuff, I still prefer Floquil for the base coat
and then acrylics for weathering. For plastic & resin I use what I
learned to do with (historical) model cars and modern planes, which is
to use the primer before spraying the acrylic as the main coat. (For
modern cars, nothing beats the enamels which can be polished to a
mirror finish).

Norm

----- Original Message -----
From: Denis F. Blake <dblake3@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Paint


Norm

This sort of defeats what some will claim is the purpose of using
the
acrylic paints in the first place, doesn't it...Personally, I am a
custom
painter, and where ever possible I still stick to the original
Scalecoat,
the best of the best, or Floquil. I played with water based paints
when I
was a kid. They were a mess then and they are still a mess today as
well.
Gee, some things just never change.

Denis F. Blake
Columbus, Ohio
TTHOTS

Visit my photosite at

http://hyperphoto.photoloft.com/view/allalbums.asp?s=cano&u=1665499


----- Original Message -----
From: "Norm Dresner" <ndrez@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Paint


Almost any time I use acrylic paint (on anything from bare metal
to
hydrocal), I first spray a light but complete coat of Testor's
Model
Master White Primer from the rattle can. It itself is an enamel
but
it gives acrylic paint a tremendous surface to grab onto.

Norm

----- Original Message -----
From: Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 12:34 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Paint


Merry Christmas everybody!
I've been working on the kits I bought a Naperville and am down
to
the
last one. My Question is; Is there a trick to spraying acrylic
paint
on
resin? I have been painting for over 25 years, but am an FNG on
acrylic
paint. I bought two of the single sheath cars Martin was
selling, a
RI
and a Q. The instructions (that's a poor term) say to use Badger
paint.
This beaded up on the RI car so I washed it off and painted it
with
Floquil. I have tried to wash the Q car better, but would like
to
know a
little more before I try Badger on it.
Thanks to all and to all good night.
Clark


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Re: the new year from Sunshine

Dave & Libby Nelson <muskoka@...>
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim O'Connor [mailto:timoconnor@...]
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 9:52 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] the new year from Sunshine



Freight cars fans,

I can think of two woefully neglected freight cars..
(2) D&RGW 12-panel
box cars, including the "Cookie Box" cars.
Company erection drawings for these cars are in the hands of the Colorado RR
Museum in Golden and can be had for about $15-20 by phoning the library
(800-365-6263) and asking for Kenton Forest. The cars the Grande had are:

68000-68399 -- 40' S 10'4" IH Duryea blt 1939
68900-69399 -- 40' S 10'4" IH Duryea blt 1941
69400-69899 -- 40' S 10'4" IH Duryea blt 1942
67500-69899 -- 40' S 10'4" IH Duryea blt 1946

I'm not sure of these have extant drawings -- perhaps all, I dunno. The
drawings for these cars may be of general interest too as they had Duryea
underframes.

I'm buying drawings for a GS gon and a stock car... cost me $35 with shipping.
I'm told they're about 3' by 6'. I used a visa card for payment. I've not
yet received them so I can't say about the value for the dollar but I'm
hopeful.

Dave Nelson


Re: Paint

Norm Dresner <ndrez@...>
 

Almost any time I use acrylic paint (on anything from bare metal to
hydrocal), I first spray a light but complete coat of Testor's Model
Master White Primer from the rattle can. It itself is an enamel but
it gives acrylic paint a tremendous surface to grab onto.

Norm

----- Original Message -----
From: Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 12:34 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Paint


Merry Christmas everybody!
I've been working on the kits I bought a Naperville and am down to
the
last one. My Question is; Is there a trick to spraying acrylic paint
on
resin? I have been painting for over 25 years, but am an FNG on
acrylic
paint. I bought two of the single sheath cars Martin was selling, a
RI
and a Q. The instructions (that's a poor term) say to use Badger
paint.
This beaded up on the RI car so I washed it off and painted it with
Floquil. I have tried to wash the Q car better, but would like to
know a
little more before I try Badger on it.
Thanks to all and to all good night.
Clark


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Re: Paint

Denis F. Blake <dblake3@...>
 

Norm

This sort of defeats what some will claim is the purpose of using the
acrylic paints in the first place, doesn't it...Personally, I am a custom
painter, and where ever possible I still stick to the original Scalecoat,
the best of the best, or Floquil. I played with water based paints when I
was a kid. They were a mess then and they are still a mess today as well.
Gee, some things just never change.

Denis F. Blake
Columbus, Ohio
TTHOTS

Visit my photosite at

http://hyperphoto.photoloft.com/view/allalbums.asp?s=cano&u=1665499

----- Original Message -----
From: "Norm Dresner" <ndrez@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Paint


Almost any time I use acrylic paint (on anything from bare metal to
hydrocal), I first spray a light but complete coat of Testor's Model
Master White Primer from the rattle can. It itself is an enamel but
it gives acrylic paint a tremendous surface to grab onto.

Norm

----- Original Message -----
From: Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 12:34 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Paint


Merry Christmas everybody!
I've been working on the kits I bought a Naperville and am down to
the
last one. My Question is; Is there a trick to spraying acrylic paint
on
resin? I have been painting for over 25 years, but am an FNG on
acrylic
paint. I bought two of the single sheath cars Martin was selling, a
RI
and a Q. The instructions (that's a poor term) say to use Badger
paint.
This beaded up on the RI car so I washed it off and painted it with
Floquil. I have tried to wash the Q car better, but would like to
know a
little more before I try Badger on it.
Thanks to all and to all good night.
Clark


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STMFC-unsubscribe@...



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Painting Resin

Jim or Lisa Hayes <jim-and-lisa@...>
 

Cleanliness is everything.
I've been painting resin kits with AccuFlex, ModelFlex, and PollyScale for a
long time with minimum problems. The most important thing is cleaning
molding oils and finger oils off the kits. When you first open the box,
before you cut the pieces apart from the flash, scrub everything with dish
soap, warm water and a toothbrush. When the kit is assembled and ready for
paint scrub it again with dish soap and water or alcohol and that trusty
toothbrush.
On a related note, I've found that acrylic paints on resin tend to scratch
easily. I solve that with a shot of Testors Glosscote as soon as the acrylic
paint is dry.

Jim Hayes
Portland Oregon


Re: Merry Christmas

CBarkan@...
 

That's obvious, he rides aboard an N&W hopper, which are well-known to be
able to transcend all laws of time and space. You will receive all the N&W
hoppers that wish to come into your home ... all the rest will be on Sherman
Hill in a parallel universe.

Merry Xmas Mike!

P.S. Thanks for maintaining the SFMCT in this universe.

In a message dated 12/24/1 5:40:27 PM, brockm@... writes:

<< Hmmm. Anyone know how Santa gets into a house without a chimney?

Mike Brock
>>


Re: the new year from Sunshine

Charlie Tapper <chastap@...>
 

Bill:

I order from Sunshine now and again, but I usually respond to adds I see in
the model press, and then order again off of the catalog sheets I get in the
resulting package. It seems I'm missing some of the latest releases and I
will probably be intensely interested in the pending gon releases (perhaps
even the ATSF ones <G>).

Does Sunshine have some sort of mailing list or newsletter or something to
let us folks out in the boonies know what the latest offerings are? What's
the best way to get a periodic update? And no, attending Naperville is not
possible, not with my commitments.

RE: gons, If the 40 footers and 52 footers are anything of what I hope they
are, 2002 is going to be a great and expensive year (please let it be a
Bethlehem 52 footer and a USRA or AAR steel 40 footer!).

Charlie Tapper

Me too. I failed to mention the non Santa Fe gons he is doing, which is a
very large release of three different lengths, 40, 45, and 52, for many
different railroads.

It is a great time to modeling


Re: Paint

Alan C. Welch <acwelch@...>
 

At 10:48 AM 24/12/2001 -0800, you wrote:
Clark Probst wrote:



Clark, I know other modelers, some of whom are subscribers to this list,
who get good results with water-based paints, but I have never figured out
how to do it. They may be able to tell you how to get acceptable results,
but my advice (FWIW) is to use Scalecoat II. Since it's solvent-based, you
must apply it in a well-ventilated space (a spray booth with a healthy fan
that exhausts through a window or wall to the outside is ideal), and you
should use a respirator to avoid inhaling the fumes (these are relatively
inexpensive and readily available at Home Depot and similar hardware/paint
suppliers). In my view, you will need such an arrangement sooner or later,
anyway, because I don't know of any satisfactory water-based clear flat
finish to apply over decals; Dullcote, Floquil, etc. are all solvent-based.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520
I agree with this totally and I spent a LOT of time trying various, water-based brands. My main conclusion was that if the paint was fresh from the factory it worked OK, but if it wasn't it would start drying in the airbrush.

I too like Scalecoat but, due to availability problems, often use Floquil, even though it needs a gloss coating for decals.

Al


Re: Paint

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

If you're going to use Accupaint, or a water based paint, over
resin, a light coat of an enamel primer is all you need.

At 10:48 AM 12/24/01 -0800, you wrote:
Clark Probst wrote:

I've been working on the kits I bought a Naperville and am down to the
last one. My Question is; Is there a trick to spraying acrylic paint on
resin?
Clark, I know other modelers, some of whom are subscribers to this list,
who get good results with water-based paints, but I have never figured out
how to do it. They may be able to tell you how to get acceptable results,
but my advice (FWIW) is to use Scalecoat II.

Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Paint

Richard Hendrickson
 

Clark Probst wrote:

I've been working on the kits I bought a Naperville and am down to the
last one. My Question is; Is there a trick to spraying acrylic paint on
resin?
Clark, I know other modelers, some of whom are subscribers to this list,
who get good results with water-based paints, but I have never figured out
how to do it. They may be able to tell you how to get acceptable results,
but my advice (FWIW) is to use Scalecoat II. Since it's solvent-based, you
must apply it in a well-ventilated space (a spray booth with a healthy fan
that exhausts through a window or wall to the outside is ideal), and you
should use a respirator to avoid inhaling the fumes (these are relatively
inexpensive and readily available at Home Depot and similar hardware/paint
suppliers). In my view, you will need such an arrangement sooner or later,
anyway, because I don't know of any satisfactory water-based clear flat
finish to apply over decals; Dullcote, Floquil, etc. are all solvent-based.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Thanks...and a Question

golden1014
 

Freinds,

Mike and everybody else, I just want to say thanks for
inviting me to the STMFC list. Of all the lists I'm on
or have ever been on, I've learned more from the guys
on this list than any other. And I mean that
sincerely. I've really learned so much here and
recieved so much information through the mail from you
guys. Thanks! I hope you all have a wonderful holiday
season.

Now to my question. I read in MR/RMC/MM that Sunshine
is coming out with a Rock Island outside braced car. I
think the ad said a "Pratt Truss" car. Can anybody
direct me to a prototype photo? I'd love to add a few
to my fleet.

Yours,
John Golden
Travis AFB, CA

=====


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Rocket Express - email

ian clasper <ianclasper@...>
 

Hi Guys

I paid for a Rocket Express kit at Naperville,
on the promise that the kit would be shipped to me within days.
He was out of stock.

Does anyone have the email address for Ron Von Werder the proprietor so
I can chase him up and find out what is happening.

Thanks

Ian Clasper


Re: the new year from Sunshine

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

Freight cars fans,

I can think of two woefully neglected freight cars.. I
know I've suggested them to Martin more than once, so I
won't belabor the point. But I'd really like to see him
do (1) GN plywood side box cars and (2) D&RGW 12-panel
box cars, including the "Cookie Box" cars. Also generally
neglected are 50 foot steel auto box cars.

I only mention these because of the idea of producing models
of every "significant" transition era freight car. That seems
like a daunting task for 10 lifetimes, much less one!

If someone could mail me a photocopy of Martin's latest list
of kits (he was all out at Naperville) then I will update my
list and send it to John Nehrich so he can update his web site.
I will also post a copy on my own web page, just in case the
RPI site goes into pay-per-view mode...


At 07:38 AM 12/24/01 -0800, you wrote:
Bill that's not all that's coming out next year, I am working on masters for
two Santa Fe gondolas,(my 4th and 5th project for Sunshine) which should be
out by next summer, and I know of a series of Santa Fe reefers in the works,
at least some of which should come out sometime next year. And I am sure
Martin has many more things in the works.
Charles Slater
Bakersfield, Ca.

Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: New England Coal & Coke

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

Earl Tuson wrote

It is stated on the car side to return when empty to Grantown, WV
Earl, I can't help you at all with the hopper, but I'm fairly
certain that should be Grafton, WV!

Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Sterling, Massachusetts


Paint

Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
 

Merry Christmas everybody!
I've been working on the kits I bought a Naperville and am down to the
last one. My Question is; Is there a trick to spraying acrylic paint on
resin? I have been painting for over 25 years, but am an FNG on acrylic
paint. I bought two of the single sheath cars Martin was selling, a RI
and a Q. The instructions (that's a poor term) say to use Badger paint.
This beaded up on the RI car so I washed it off and painted it with
Floquil. I have tried to wash the Q car better, but would like to know a
little more before I try Badger on it.
Thanks to all and to all good night.
Clark


Re: New England Coal & Coke

Ian Cranstone
 

From: tim gilbert <tgilbert@...>
In the 8/25 ORER, there were the following hoppers listed for Koppers.

135 SBPX 15112-15850 30'6" IL, 1,880 CF
550 KOPX 100-750 30'6" IL, 1,880 CF

(SBPX - Seaboard By Product Coke Co.)
(KOPX - Chicago By Product Coke Co. and Koppers Co. - flats only)

In the 7/31 ORER, the following listings for Koppers:

248 SBPX 100-347 30'6" IL, 1,880 CF
99 SBPX 400-498 38,10" IL, 2,546 CF

(SBPX renamed to Koppers Coal Co.)
(KOPX renamed to Koppers Construction Co. - flats only)
Following Tim's reasoning, I looked up the Koppers listing in the 8/22 ORER,
and it shows the following:

99 KOPX 15001-15100 38'10" IL, 2546 CF
898 KOPX 15101-16000 30'6" IL, 1880 CF

SBPX reporting marks were not in use then, but the Seaboard By Product Coke
Co. name was, with KOPX reporting marks.

--
Ian Cranstone
Kanata, Ontario, Canada
lamontc@... (note change: was lamontc@...)


Re: New England Coal & Coke

tim gilbert <tgilbert@...>
 

Earl,

You wrote:

Wayner's Freight Car Pictorial has, on page 13, a picture of steel
twin hopper
NECX 1184. It is stated on the car side to return when empty to
Grantown, WV,
located on the B&O. The 10/1919 ORER shows 600 cars listed for NECX,
HM
1001-1600, with 30' IL, 9'5 1/2" IW, 7'3 1/4" IH(!?!,) and 1770 cuft
capy.
There it is stated that the cars should be returned when empty to
Fairmont, WV,
only 12 miles from Grantown, also on the B&O. My 7/31 ORER, however,
no longer
shows a listing for NECX. I had suspected these cars may have been
sold second
hand to the B&O, but I cannot identify a series at that listing that
would be a
match. Does anyone know what happened to the NECX cars? New England
Coal &
Coke did continue to operate for many more decades, so I don't see a
corporate
failure and auction as a possibility, but rather a divestiture of that
branch
of the operation.

Have a great holiday everyone!

Earl Tuson

Like your 8/31 ORER, there was no mention of the New England Coal & Coke
in either the 8/25 or 7/31 ORER.

The NEC&C was controlled by the Koppers Corporation as was Eastern Fuel
& Gas in Everett MA, and the Mystic Steamship Co. (once called the New
England Steamship Co.). I do not know when Koppers bought NEC&C, or
whether NEC&C's disappearance from the ORER's was a matter of "corporate
restructuring" in the early 1920's.

The NECX #1001-1600 series hoppers seem to have been employed in
carrying "Koppers'" Coal from mines in northern West Virginia to the
B&O's Curtiss Pier in Baltimore where the coal was transshipped to
colliers and/or schooner barges for the trip to New England.

From the list of Ship Arrivals in the Port of Boston between April 1st
and 15th, 1923, there was only one Schooner Barge carrying coal from
Baltimore. Most of the coal arriving from New England from West Virginia
seemed to have been transshipped from Norfolk and Newport News which
were N&W, VGN and C&O ports.

(New York Harbor and Philadelphia were other transshipment points for
coal to New England - it was conceivable that the "NEC&C" could have
used the B&O-RDG-CNJ routing to access these ports, but none of the
vessels employed in this trade in the first two weeks of April 1923 were
owned by the Mystic Steamship Co. or the New England Steamship Co.
predecessor.)

In the 8/25 ORER, there were the following hoppers listed for Koppers.

135 SBPX 15112-15850 30'6" IL, 1,880 CF
550 KOPX 100-750 30'6" IL, 1,880 CF

(SBPX - Seaboard By Product Coke Co.)
(KOPX - Chicago By Product Coke Co. and Koppers Co. - flats only)

In the 7/31 ORER, the following listings for Koppers:

248 SBPX 100-347 30'6" IL, 1,880 CF
99 SBPX 400-498 38,10" IL, 2,546 CF

(SBPX renamed to Koppers Coal Co.)
(KOPX renamed to Koppers Construction Co. - flats only)

The above, however, does not answer your question of what happened to
the NECX #1001-1600 series. Rather than being sold to the B&O, another
possibility was that this series was relegated to some "in-plant"
service at some Koppers' facility - probably facilities more correct.

Sorry I was not more of a help, but Merry Christmas anyway.

Tim

191441 - 191460 of 195694