Date   

Re: Rivet size

Marcelo Lordeiro <mrcustom@...>
 

Another source for brass rivets is "The Gallery of Transportation" ,
www.galtran.com .
The smallest till last time I got them was .5mm ( .019").
They also have hex nuts , screws ,.......
Will try to find the person business card and give the name.

Marcelo Lordeiro

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Storzek" <dstorzek@elnet.com>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 9:10 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Rivet size


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Ted Culotta <tculotta@s...> wrote:
>
> On Nov 8, 2005, at 9:33 AM, soolinehistory wrote:
>
> > I've found
> > a source in Germany that has brass rivets with 0.3mm heads on 0.2mm
> > shanks; that's .012" heads on .008 shanks, but that means you need to
> > deal with a #90 drill or thereabouts. They will fall straight through
> > a hole drilled with a #80 drill. You don't want to ask the price :-(
> >
>
> Dennis:
>
> I'll bite - what's the price and where can they be had? How about the
> other brass rivets you mentioned (or are these one and the same)?
>
> Regards,
> Ted Culotta

The american outfit with the .016" head rivets can be found at:

http://www.galtran.com/ScaleNutsandBolts/ScaleNutsandBoltsProductPage.htm

Click on rivets. I purchased some from them some time ago; took about a
week. They take plastic.

I am grateful to Manfred Lorenze (who may not be on this list) for the
source of the smaller rivets, but I've not actually tried to purchase from
them. Go to:

http://www.fohrmann.com/e/shop/art/6681.htm

The smallest size is listed by the illustration close to the top of the
page. Keep in mind that 0.1mm = appx. .004" 40 pcs. for 6.50 Euros is
about $7.65, or about twenty cents EACH. Ouch! Plus shipping, although
they
ought to be able to get enough rivets to model the Titanic in a first
class
mail envelope. The last time I looked, they didn't say anything about
either international orders or plastic, but maybe that is changed. You
could e-mail them (they have a "contact us" icon on the site), and hope
someone there reads English. Good luck.

The bigger bummer is the .008" shank really does require a #90 drill
(.0087, a rattle fit :-) or perhaps #91, .0083" diameter. These are
specialty items, available from an industrial supply only, at a couple of
bucks each, I'm sure.

Let me know how you make out.





Dennis Storzek





Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: Rivet size

bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
 

I've followed the rivet discussion with interest. Apparently we
modelers don't have as much control over the size of rivets as we
should have or would like to have.

For those interested in the correct size of rivets which, I believe,
was the thrust of the original post in this thread, Mainline Modeler
published an article I wrote on rivets in the April 1997 issue. I
covered size, shape and placement but not how to scratchbuild a rivet.

Gene Green


Re: Dalman trucks (was Eastern Car Works Trucks)

bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
 

Are you taking orders for the trucks now?
Will you sell direct or only through distributors/retailers?
Would you like payment in advance to help with the new CNC machine?

Gene Green
Out in the West Texas Town of El Paso

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Leppert" <b.leppert@a...> wrote:

Gentlemen,

New HO Dalman two-level trucks will be available in two styles--
with Barber Lateral Motion device detail and without. These trucks
will be Celcon (similar to
Delrin) one piece moldings with snap-in brake shoe detail and
metal .110" wheelsets. Bolster height will match NMRA's RP 23
(5/16").

Unfortunately, my CNC milling machine became unreliable just before
Naperville, before tooling was finished. A new machine will be
ordered soon, but I'm expecting almost three months until delivery.
Tooling for the truck will resume then.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV





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Re: Rivet size

Dennis Storzek <dstorzek@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Ted Culotta <tculotta@s...> wrote:

On Nov 8, 2005, at 9:33 AM, soolinehistory wrote:

I've found
a source in Germany that has brass rivets with 0.3mm heads on 0.2mm
shanks; that's .012" heads on .008 shanks, but that means you need to
deal with a #90 drill or thereabouts. They will fall straight through
a hole drilled with a #80 drill. You don't want to ask the price :-(
Dennis:

I'll bite - what's the price and where can they be had? How about the
other brass rivets you mentioned (or are these one and the same)?

Regards,
Ted Culotta
The american outfit with the .016" head rivets can be found at:

http://www.galtran.com/ScaleNutsandBolts/ScaleNutsandBoltsProductPage.htm

Click on rivets. I purchased some from them some time ago; took about a week. They take plastic.

I am grateful to Manfred Lorenze (who may not be on this list) for the source of the smaller rivets, but I've not actually tried to purchase from them. Go to:

http://www.fohrmann.com/e/shop/art/6681.htm

The smallest size is listed by the illustration close to the top of the page. Keep in mind that 0.1mm = appx. .004" 40 pcs. for 6.50 Euros is about $7.65, or about twenty cents EACH. Ouch! Plus shipping, although they ought to be able to get enough rivets to model the Titanic in a first class mail envelope. The last time I looked, they didn't say anything about either international orders or plastic, but maybe that is changed. You could e-mail them (they have a "contact us" icon on the site), and hope someone there reads English. Good luck.

The bigger bummer is the .008" shank really does require a #90 drill (.0087, a rattle fit :-) or perhaps #91, .0083" diameter. These are specialty items, available from an industrial supply only, at a couple of bucks each, I'm sure.

Let me know how you make out.





Dennis Storzek


Re: Rivet size

Charles Hladik
 

Dennis,
Sorry for the confusion. I model in HO and O SCALE but built the Sn3
flat for a friend and it really does seem a fairly ideal scale.
Chuck Hladik
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division


ADMIN: Naperville/RPM Meets

Mike Brock <brockm@...>
 

Regarding Naperville, Cocoa Beach, St. Louis, or any other RPM meet, as the rules clearly state, announcements [ schedules, clinics to be given etc. ] about the event are within scope, studies and various analyzes about the event are not within scope. I wanted to be lenient about Naperville because so many members attended but there have been complaints that the subject is out of scope...which it is. If anyone has suggestions...or, gasp!...complaints about any aspect of Prototype Rails [ Cocoa Beach ] send them to me and not the group. I don't know where you should take complaints or praise about Naperville but it's not to the STMFC...and, I think, we've seen enough.

I would further remind the members...again...that discussions about how someone chooses to conduct their business is also...Surprise!!...out of scope.

Thanks.

Mike Brock
STMFC Boss


Re: Naperville Aftermath (ad nauseam)

bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
 

I've read a lot of good discussion on what was right and wrong with the
most recent meet in Naperville. Too bad I couldn't be there but ...

Perhaps some one could copy and paste all these postings to a simple
text document, print it out and mail it to Martin. That would at least
give him the benefit of knowing what folks are saying.

Gene Green
Out in the West Texas Town of El Paso


Re: Naperville Aftermath

bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
 

As I now recall, Martin specifically told me I must have a handout
and that I couldn't charge for it.

I had one and I charged for it.

Most bought one and no one complained to me about having to buy it or
my price. If there were complaints I wish I had heard about them. I
spent more than John Golden on my handouts and ran out so I mailed
out a bunch more later on.

I have also paid others for their handout. Like John, I consider the
handouts to be important and valuable. If a clinic lends itself at
all to a handout, I'd like to have one.

I wouldn't mind paying. No one should go too deeply into their own
pocket for me.

Gene Green
Out in the West Texas Town of El Paso

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tony Thompson <thompsonmarytony@s...>
wrote:

John Golden wrote:
Oh yeah--another note. I spent $70.00 and a heck of a
lot of time making 135 quality handouts for my
presentation. Every one of them were distributed to
attendees. I note that many other presenters didn't
bother making or distributing handouts, which, quite
frankly, pisses me off. It's a requirement for
Naperville to have a handout. As Martin says, "It's
expected".
John, it's NOT "required" at all, as Martin will tell you,
though
of course it is very welcome. Not every presentation lends itself
to a
handout. When I have done talks which so lend themselves, I am
happy to
make the effort; other times, a handout doesn't make sense. To say
that
other speakers "didn't bother" is insulting and may be inaccurate
in
some cases.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@s...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: CORRECTION: CGW "PS-Zero" Boxcar Article (was PS-1 Boxcars)

centga@...
 

The rumor mill says that there may be a 50' version of the 37' AAR car in the near future (hopefully) Todd Horton

-----Original Message-----
From: buchwaldfam <duff@gmavt.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 08 Nov 2005 17:32:44 -0000
Subject: [STMFC] Re: CORRECTION: CGW "PS-Zero" Boxcar Article (was PS-1 Boxcars)


Yup,
Good article. The CGW car is really a 10 foot IH 1937 AAR car with
the PS-Zero ends. Ted Culotta's web site has a list of 1937 cars and
this CGW series is listed there.
The RMJ article also shows similar 40 foot cars for other roads,
one shot of a SAL round roof car, as well as CGW and KCS 50 foot cars
with those ends.
The kitbash is pretty straightforward. Just remove the old ends
and graft on the new ones. I made replacement ends by sawing and
gnawing off the cast-on ladder a brake details from a set of old MDC
round roof car ends. The resin ends are a better way to go if you can
get them: it took me the better part of a saturday to get rid of all
the unwanted ladder details! Then I still had to add a rivet strip
between the top and bottom panel. But it did work.

Regards,
Phil Buchwald

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@w...> wrote:

I wrote:
"If Stan wrote an article on this model, it hasn't hit the streets
yet."

Belay my last! Here's the article you're looking for:

"Pullman-Standard 40 and 50-foot box cars from Red Caboose or
InterMountain kit", Railmodel Journal, March 2001, page 55.

Should know better to post before the first cup of coffee in the
morning...apologies for any confusion!


Ben Hom







Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: caboose window shades

birdbiz2003 <birdbiz2003@...>
 

Perfect ideas. Thank you for your help. My hobby shop will pull the
24'' from Alexander Models and the Bethlehem Car Works one and I will
buy one pack of something on Wed. evening.
Sincerely,

Tyler Turpin


Tyler Turpin asked:
"I am making the HO scale Bachman[n] bobber kit in HO scale
accurate
to the prototype. Need a manufacturer name and part number that
will
best model the window shades on the non cupola windows."

Try the following:

Alexander Scale Models #120-2201 (24")
Alexander Scale Models #120-2202 (30")
Bethlehem Car Works #718-61

All are showing in stock at Walthers.


"Some photos of prototypes are on the website below."
"Railroad Museum Of Pennsylvania Page-3-of-3-Stan's RailPix- !
Lehigh Valley Railroad four-wheel wooden "bobber" caboose # 2606."

FWIW, it's easier for us to help you if you give a direct link to
the photo:
http://www.trainweb.org/railpix/miscpix/DCP_0309-LV-2606-7-7-01.jpg

"The LH&R Caboose No. 81.
http://home.cyberave.com/~wisner/Factsandhistory/History/LHR.html "

This link came up dead.


Ben Hom


Re: Dalman trucks (was Eastern Car Works Trucks)

Brian Leppert <b.leppert@...>
 

Gentlemen,

New HO Dalman two-level trucks will be available in two styles--with Barber Lateral Motion device detail and without. These trucks will be Celcon (similar to
Delrin) one piece moldings with snap-in brake shoe detail and metal .110" wheelsets. Bolster height will match NMRA's RP 23 (5/16").

Unfortunately, my CNC milling machine became unreliable just before Naperville, before tooling was finished. A new machine will be ordered soon, but I'm expecting almost three months until delivery. Tooling for the truck will resume then.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV





SPONSORED LINKS
Worldwide travel insurance Travel trailer insurance International travel insurance
Travel insurance usa Travel medical insurance Csa travel insurance




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Re: Tank car dome from Detail Associates

Gatwood, Elden <Elden.Gatwood@...>
 

Phil;
There is also a dome done by PSC in brass. The DA one I have is resin.
Both are for a large capacity (10-12k?) car.

Tichy's large and small tank car domes are very nicely done, but I am
sorry I do not have the dimensions at hand. They do work for some
applications, but be aware that in order for you to fit one on a bashed
Athearn, you may be working with a larger hole than the Tichy dome(s)
may fit, and thus, you may have to apply a filler ring in the tank hole.
One the riveted cars, this is the biggest job you can get into. It
could be done by embossing a replacement dome collar with rivets, but
why bother? These domes would go nicely on other kits, like the IM Type
27, but again, why?

The DA and PSC domes were sized for that car, so they will do a decent
job, if you indeed want to do the GATC 10k car, or one of the RR-owned
(12k) cars. Richard's model is super.

The Tichy domes are also nice in that they represent an early dome with
a sharp edge between tank top and sides. If you look through your ACF
books, you can see a number of examples. The presence of 2 valves also
makes it specific to certain manufacturers and car orders, as most, but
not all, were outfitted with two of them after the late teens/early
twenties.

I am still trying to figure out dimensional issues and kit issues and I
did make a run at explaining some of the kit issues at the WPM meet Oct
9, but I have not yet completed my summary of model dimensions (I do not
own them all!). If you are interested, I will keep you all informed and
make that available.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
buchwaldfam
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 1:21 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Tank car dome from Detail Associates

I may be mashing two different articles together, however if I
remember correctly, the article had both the 12.5k car and the 10k
car, which had several sections removed from the tank and frame. Both
the DA dome as well as the double-stack dome were featured. The photos
in the article were black and white, but the tone of the photo
suggested that the DA dome was brass instead of resin (?).
New question: Tichy's tank car detail set includes the dome from
their "USRA" (sic) tank car. Is this dome valid for any possible
prototype derived from a bashed Athearn tank car?

Regards,
Phil Buchwald

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <bwelch@u...> wrote:

Detail associates has a tank car dome in their parts line, cast in
resin I believe. Could someone fill me on what kits this is intended
for? I assume it is meant to correct a kit or make possible an
alternative model.

Bill Welch








Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Naperville Aftermath

ljack70117@...
 

On Nov 8, 2005, at 12:37 PM, Bob Webber wrote:

We're likely treading on the good graces of our fearsome moderator....

Having returned from Gaithersburg, I can attest that a three day
(well, 2.5 days) of selling can really burn out vendors. Bob's
choice is to do it from his room and that seems to work for him as he
can lounge and his security is pretty good - though I do fault him
for not taking that extra effort of saving his collection when the
fire alarm sounded. I fully expected to see all those priceless
photos in the parking lot....
If a fire alarm goes off you forget every thing in the room except your wife and yourself (your kids also if they are there) and you use caution as you get out of the building. Having been a volunteer fireman I ask you the question "Have you ever seen the body of someone who was over come by smoke while trying to save other things besides themselves"? Not a pretty thing. So never never fault anyone who gets out when the alarm sounds and leaves his Rembrant painting behind.
Thank you
Larry Jackman
ljack70117@adelphia.net
The 50-50-90 Rule: Anytime you have 50-50 chance of getting something right, there is 90% probability you'll get it wrong.


Re: Tank car dome from Detail Associates

buchwaldfam <duff@...>
 

I may be mashing two different articles together, however if I
remember correctly, the article had both the 12.5k car and the 10k
car, which had several sections removed from the tank and frame. Both
the DA dome as well as the double-stack dome were featured. The photos
in the article were black and white, but the tone of the photo
suggested that the DA dome was brass instead of resin (?).
New question: Tichy's tank car detail set includes the dome from
their "USRA" (sic) tank car. Is this dome valid for any possible
prototype derived from a bashed Athearn tank car?

Regards,
Phil Buchwald

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <bwelch@u...> wrote:

Detail associates has a tank car dome in their parts line, cast in
resin I believe. Could someone fill me on what kits this is intended
for? I assume it is meant to correct a kit or make possible an
alternative model.

Bill Welch


Re: Rivet size

Ted Culotta <tculotta@...>
 

On Nov 8, 2005, at 9:33 AM, soolinehistory wrote:

I've found
a source in Germany that has brass rivets with 0.3mm heads on 0.2mm
shanks; that's .012" heads on .008 shanks, but that means you need to
deal with a #90 drill or thereabouts. They will fall straight through
a hole drilled with a #80 drill. You don't want to ask the price :-(
Dennis:

I'll bite - what's the price and where can they be had? How about the other brass rivets you mentioned (or are these one and the same)?

Regards,
Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
645 Tanner Marsh Road, Guilford, CT 06437
info@speedwitch.com
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912


Re: CORRECTION: CGW "PS-Zero" Boxcar Article (was PS-1 Boxcars)

buchwaldfam <duff@...>
 

Woops, I replied to your first note. Thanks for the correction!

Best regards,
Phil Buchwald



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "buchwaldfam" <duff@g...> wrote:

Well, that's no good! I've already got the roof glued
on! :)
I have that RMJ issue on the kitchen table next to the
car
(very tolerant wife!). I'll have to take a close look at the
photos
tonight.
The shot of the prototype car is low angle, I just don't
recall
if there are seam caps showing on it or not. (The model in the
article has the standard Red Caboose/IMWX kit roof.)
Are you saying that the roof is flat like the CGW 1932 cars?
Or
are they more like a rectangular panel roof, except that the
panels
are like those which are typically found on only the two end
panels
of such a roof (flat panels between seam caps)? The "1937 AAR Box
Car As Built Roster" on your web site doesn't have any note on a
non-
standard roof for the CGW cars. (The same column shows those cars
which had Viking roofs, for example.)


Thanks!
Phil Buchwald


Re: CORRECTION: CGW "PS-Zero" Boxcar Article (was PS-1 Boxcars)

buchwaldfam <duff@...>
 

Well, that's no good! I've already got the roof glued on! :)
I have that RMJ issue on the kitchen table next to the car
(very tolerant wife!). I'll have to take a close look at the photos
tonight.
The shot of the prototype car is low angle, I just don't recall
if there are seam caps showing on it or not. (The model in the
article has the standard Red Caboose/IMWX kit roof.)
Are you saying that the roof is flat like the CGW 1932 cars? Or
are they more like a rectangular panel roof, except that the panels
are like those which are typically found on only the two end panels
of such a roof (flat panels between seam caps)? The "1937 AAR Box
Car As Built Roster" on your web site doesn't have any note on a non-
standard roof for the CGW cars. (The same column shows those cars
which had Viking roofs, for example.)


Thanks!
Phil Buchwald



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Ted Culotta <tculotta@s...> wrote:


On Nov 8, 2005, at 12:32 PM, buchwaldfam wrote:

Yup,
Good article. The CGW car is really a 10 foot IH 1937 AAR
car with
the PS-Zero ends. Ted Culotta's web site has a list of 1937 cars
and
this CGW series is listed there.
The RMJ article also shows similar 40 foot cars for other
roads,
one shot of a SAL round roof car, as well as CGW and KCS 50 foot
cars
with those ends.
The kitbash is pretty straightforward. Just remove the old
ends
and graft on the new ones. I made replacement ends by sawing and
gnawing off the cast-on ladder a brake details from a set of old
MDC
round roof car ends. The resin ends are a better way to go if
you can
get them: it took me the better part of a saturday to get rid of
all
the unwanted ladder details! Then I still had to add a rivet
strip
between the top and bottom panel. But it did work.
These cars also had flat riveted roof. By the way, these ends are
not
"PS-0" ends. They are simply Pullman-Standard proprietary ends.
Similar ones were also used on the WLE, TC and B&O cars. On the
CGW
cars, the ribs terminated before the radius of the end that wraps
around the corner post. On the WLE/TC/B&O cars the ends of the
ribs
actually and terminate on the portion of the end that can be seen
from
the side of the car.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
645 Tanner Marsh Road, Guilford, CT 06437
info@s...
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912


Re: Tank Cars

Gatwood, Elden <Elden.Gatwood@...>
 

Tom;
I do not have access to that document, but is this a riveted, or welded
car? Does it have wooden or steel running boards? NATX had lots of
oddball cars, but two-compartment cars are rare, nonetheless.

It sounds like one of the Pennzoil cars they had for additives/specialty
refinery products. The decent load capacity with low liquid volume
makes one suspect it was a car for something very heavy, like auto gas
"lead", or other heavy industrial liquids.

Is the logo the parallelogram on the side of the tank, or the smaller
name?

Thanks,

Elden

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Thomas M. Olsen
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 12:12 PM
To: Steam Freight Car List
Subject: [STMFC] RE: Tank Cars

List,

While we are on the subject of tank cars, I have a question about tank
car that needs some identity. Steamtown in Scranton has a two
compartment tank car lettered NATX 4750. A photo of this car appeared
in the October 2005 issue of the NMRA "ScaleRails on page 31. On what
appears to be the "B" end of the car, there is a capacity of 4577
gallons stenciled. On the sid it shows a Capacity of 80000 pounds, with

a Light Weight of 37800 pounds. The lettering and the North American
rectangular logo appears to be original as the car is in deplorable
condition and has not been restored. It also looks like it is equipped
with Barber spring-plankless solid bearing trucks. To prevent anyone
climbing on the car the National Park Service has plated over the
stirrup steps at all four corners.

Can anyone identify this car and know anything of it's history? My
ORER's only date back to 1949 and do not show this particular car number

in the North American listings.

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@udel.edu





Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Tank Cars

Thomas M. Olsen <tmolsen@...>
 

List,

While we are on the subject of tank cars, I have a question about tank car that needs some identity. Steamtown in Scranton has a two compartment tank car lettered NATX 4750. A photo of this car appeared in the October 2005 issue of the NMRA "ScaleRails on page 31. On what appears to be the "B" end of the car, there is a capacity of 4577 gallons stenciled. On the sid it shows a Capacity of 80000 pounds, with a Light Weight of 37800 pounds. The lettering and the North American rectangular logo appears to be original as the car is in deplorable condition and has not been restored. It also looks like it is equipped with Barber spring-plankless solid bearing trucks. To prevent anyone climbing on the car the National Park Service has plated over the stirrup steps at all four corners.

Can anyone identify this car and know anything of it's history? My ORER's only date back to 1949 and do not show this particular car number in the North American listings.

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@udel.edu


Re: Tank car dome from Detail Associates

Ted Culotta <tculotta@...>
 

On Nov 8, 2005, at 2:14 PM, Beckert, Shawn wrote:

Elden Gatwood wrote:

All interested should also be aware that the DA dome is pretty "fat",
representing a 2% dome for a large capacity car. This is NOT the dome
for that 8k or 6k car you've been working on. Remember, that 2% volume
(and hence, dome diameter and height) applies to the capacity of the
car, and the Athearn car is a whopper.
As my feeble memory recalls, the SP O-50-13's were 12,500 gallons capacity.
And yes, they were built by GATC, I believe in the early-to-mid 1940's. I
don't know if GATC made a Type 30 of that size; I'm sure Richard will know.
Somewhere at home I have partial copies of the erection drawings for three
different classes of SP tank car, showing the domes and their measurements.
I'll try and dig those out and look at the height and diameter figures.
I believe Richard's kitbash (the GATX one) was for a 10,000 gal car.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
645 Tanner Marsh Road, Guilford, CT 06437
info@speedwitch.com
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912

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