Date   

Decal Alignment - Prototype

Doug Brown <g.brown1@...>
 

I saw this on Rob Shoenberg's site:



http://prr.railfan.net/freight/freightphotos.html?photo=PRR_171906_H35.jpg
<http://prr.railfan.net/freight/freightphotos.html?photo=PRR_171906_H35.jpg&
fr> &fr=



Even the railroads sometimes had problems lettering between the ribs.



Doug Brown


UTLX.

Arnold van Heyst
 

Another question about the UTLX cars.

Intermountain has released a 10.000 gallon UTLX welded type.
But they also have a 8.000 gallon welded version of that type.
Did the UTLX also owned 8.000 gallon welded versions of that type?

Arnold van Heyst
Netherlands.


Re: wanted: APM Flexible Clippers Bus Model

Allen Cain <allencain@...>
 

At the risk of wandering off topic for this list, I am responding to the
comments regarding the availability of APM models.



I recently contacted Classic Metal Works to express my interest in bus
models for the steam era. They were rather cryptic in their comments but
left me with the feeling that this may very well be a future model offering.
No specific model of bus was discussed but I did reference the APM buses in
my original email.



They did indicate that they would pass my email along to their marketing
product research group. Perhaps if others on this group sent them more
emails on this subject it might move this up their priority list. Here is
the email address"



cmwsales@...



Be sure to mention the scale and time period that you are interested in
buying. I was looking for early 1950's buses (transit/highway/school) in HO
Scale.



Allen Cain


Re: Decals.

jaley <jaley@...>
 

On Feb 12, 3:13pm, benjaminfrank_hom wrote:
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Decals.
Arnold van Heyst asked:
"I know there are some solvents available that will fix a decal to
its surface. But what was it?"

There are three products widely used by both scale modelers and
model railroaders:

Walthers Solvaset
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/904-470

Champ Decal-Set
http://www.minot.com/~champ/other.htm

Microscale Micro-Sol and Micro-Set
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/460-105
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/460-104
Polly-Scale also makes a pair of decal solutions that I've used
successfully over Polly-Scale (water-based) paint with Microscale decals.

Regards,

-Jeff

--
Jeff Aley jaley@...
DPG Chipsets Product Engineering
Intel Corporation, Folsom, CA
(916) 356-3533


Re: Decals.

jerryglow2
 

http://www.carstens-publications.com/backiss/rm_0603.html

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "Arnold" <mrdata1968@...> wrote:

Someone willing to make scans of this artikel?

Arnold van Heyst.

I recommend keeping a supply of Solvaset or Decal Set and the
Microscale products on hand if you're serious about decalling
models. See Ted Culotta's Essential Freight Cars sidebar "Applying
Decals" in the June 2003 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman for
more
information.


Re: Decals.

Arnold van Heyst
 

Someone willing to make scans of this artikel?

Arnold van Heyst.

I recommend keeping a supply of Solvaset or Decal Set and the
Microscale products on hand if you're serious about decalling
models. See Ted Culotta's Essential Freight Cars sidebar "Applying
Decals" in the June 2003 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman for more
information.


Resharpened Carbide Drill Bits

jeralbin@...
 

List: A good source of resharpened carbide bits can be found at
www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/ . The bits can be purchased in 10 packs for $0.90 ea. They
have 0.125 inch shanks, plastic ID size collars and a neat plastic case. Sizes
are available in wire gage, micro wire gage and metric and can be had in
assortments and single sizes. I use them in a Brazelton drill press refitted with
an Albrecht 0 - 0.125 chuck. The 0.125 shank on the bit makes it easy to chuck
the bit up. I find that the carbide bits do not "walk" or wonder, they just
drill where they are pointed. I also use the Brazelton motor/grearhead as a
drilling hand piece, but you have to be careful of bit breakage. However I have
found that carbide bits broken in half still drill like new. I also have two
sets of one size Starrett knurled metal pin vises for hand drilling and hole
cleaning. Each one has a dedicated drill and labeled so my 64 year old eyes can
find them easily. Cheap Enco TiN coated wire drill sets work fine in the pin
vises for plastic and resin. An Enco #61-80 set is $9.55. For you "old eye
folks," you may also want to check out a vision aid by Edroy Products called
Opticaid. It comes in diopters from +2D to +10D and clips on eye glass frames, very
helpful. Regards: Jerry Albin Homer Glen, IL


Re: Dullcote problem

Michael Watnoski
 

Greetings,

Another possible source of your problem might just be a dirty
nozzle on the spray can, causing a bit of spitting. A cure for
this is to buy a spray can of carburetor cleaner. Spray the
cleaner through the dullcoat nozzle after each use. This will
also work with most spray paints.

Michael


Re: Decals.

Gene Green <bierglaeser@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., Ilcentral@... wrote:

Ben,
I have used Walthers setting solutions for years I cut it 50&#92;50 with
distilled water.
I have never had a problem using thin film decals.
You are right though if you use it full strength out of the bottle
you will
burn the decal.

John Pitts
Using distilled water is best for soaking decals, too, especially in
areas of very hard water. As distilled water evaporates it leaves
nothing behind while hard water such as we have here in El Paso leaves
a white crust behind. A gallon jug of distilled water costs 50 cents
to a dollar and lasts me for years.

Gene Green


Re: Decals.

benjaminfrank_hom <b.hom@...>
 

Arnold van Heyst asked:
"I know there are some solvents available that will fix a decal to
its surface. But what was it?"

There are three products widely used by both scale modelers and
model railroaders:

Walthers Solvaset
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/904-470

Champ Decal-Set
http://www.minot.com/~champ/other.htm

Microscale Micro-Sol and Micro-Set
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/460-105
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/460-104

The Walthers and Champ setting solutions are formulated for older
decals with thicker film and are very strong. DO NOT USE THESE FOR
INITIAL APPLICATION OF THINFILM DECALS. However, they can be
carefully used for final working of thinfilm decals.

Micro-Sol and Micro-Set are designed specifically for Microscale's
decals and work very well with them and other thinfilm decals;
however, they don't touch thicker decals.

I recommend keeping a supply of Solvaset or Decal Set and the
Microscale products on hand if you're serious about decalling
models. See Ted Culotta's Essential Freight Cars sidebar "Applying
Decals" in the June 2003 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman for more
information.


Ben Hom


Re: Dullcote problem

Gregg Mahlkov <mahlkov@...>
 

Jared,

The cause is quite simple, it is the humidity in the air. As you spray the Dullcote, its temperature drops because the pressure in the can is dropping. This causes tiny droplets of moisture in the air to cling to the droplets of Dullcote, causing the "blushing" or "milky" spots.

I used to spray in a "Florida room" at the back to the house I rented and had to wait for an exceptionally dry day to spray Dullcote. Since I built my house, my spray painting is done in a heated and air conditioned room above the garage and I have had no further troubles with Dullcote from a "spray bomb"

Both houses are within 1500 feet of the Gulf of Mexico, so humidity is a problem.

Gregg Mahlkov
Florida's Forgotten Coast

----------
Jared Harper asks:

Yes, I am using rattle can dullcote and have for years. I have never
had this problem before. I need to know the cause and how to fix it.




Yahoo! Groups Links








Decals.

Arnold van Heyst
 

Sirs,

I know there are some solvents available that will fix a decal to it's
surface.
But what was it?
Who help me?

Arnold van Heyst
Netherlands.


Re: Dullcote problem

armprem
 

Jared,I tend to wait a day or so and try again.It has been my experience
that the dull coat is OK,but is reacting to too much moisture in the air at
the time you are spraying.To fix it try semi gloss and then another
overspray with dullcoat.It works for me.Good luck.Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jared Harper" <harper-brown@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 12:04 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Dullcote problem


--- In STMFC@..., "armand premo" <armprem@...> wrote:

Jared,It is a nice model.Your problem was probably caused by
moisture.It
has happened to me a few times.Hope this helps.Armand Premo
What moisture and how do I fix it?

Jared Harper
Athens, GA







Yahoo! Groups Links






Re: IM R-40-19's

Paul Lyons
 

David, I would not say the model is "significantly wrong" except for the road
numbers. I have IM 47410-01, which is the only correct road number, #62537.
Paint the side ladders black and change the rebuild date to 4-44 and it is dead
on. Changing the road numbers to make them correct on the rest of the IM
series is probably more trouble than its worth.
Paul Lyons
Laguna Niguel, CA


Re: wanted: APM Flxible Cl;ipper Bus Model

alcodemo
 

--- In STMFC@..., PBowers <waiting@...> wrote:

I know bus is a four letter word on a lot of layouts but I'm looking
for a
American Precision Model HO Flxible Clipper bus for a railcar load.
I kick myself for not buying some of these models when they were
introduced, especially the transit version. As a result I've resorted
to ebay and see them occasionally. But be prepared to shell out
upwards of $45 or more. Its a shame that after APM went out of
business noone else picked up their molds as these are nice models. I
could use a few more myself.

Rick Maxwell


Re: Decals.

Ilcentral@...
 

Ben,
I have used Walthers setting solutions for years I cut it 50&#92;50 with
distilled water.
I have never had a problem using thin film decals.
You are right though if you use it full strength out of the bottle you will
burn the decal.

John Pitts


Re: IM R-40-19's

David Ball
 

Thanks Paul

I thought that was the only meaningful difference, but I thought I would let
those who know more than me comment!

Anyway, the model is still significantly wrong, which is what I was trying
to ascertain.

Ta

David Ball


_____

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
cobrapsl@...
Sent: Sunday, 12 February 2006 5:39 p.m.
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] IM R-40-19's


No Andy, Intermountain has done what they call "R-40-19 Refrigerator Car"
and
it is carried as their product number 47410. It is Terry's R-30-18 kit with
an apex metal roofwalk and a little different paint scheme. A little
different
paint and a metal roof walk is essentilly the only difference betweem the
-18
and the -19, so I am not sure what Terry would be doing to "create" a new
-19
kit. Anyway they butcher this run with errors just like they did all the -18

models except for the one run they got right.
Paul Lyons
Laguna NIguel, CA







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R-40-19

Andy Carlson
 

Boy, Am I ever so wrong. I have been mixing class
designations up in my mind. YES, indeed, Intermountain
has done a R-40-19, which is basically a R-40-18 with
a metal runningboard. I will try not to make wrong
postings in the future!!!!
-Andy Carlson


Re: Dullcote problem

Ned Carey <nedspam@...>
 

With the newly sprayed Dullcote dry the roof has a spotty appearance
at certain viewing angles. Does anyone have an idea as to the cause?
Jared,

Mike Rose does a fading technique where he sprays with dullcoat and then sprays with alcohol which causes a blushing (whitish coloration) of the dullcoat. Perhaps this is what happened somehow.

He says his technique is reversable by simply spraying more dullcoat and the blushing disapears. Perhaps your solution is to simply respray with more dullcoat. However I would do a test sample first.

Another PFA (plucked from air) guess as to the problem is the surface wasn't clean or totally dry from the oils. The dullcoat may have "sealed in" the problem. A possible solution is simply more weathering to hide / blend the problem. Perhaps just some chalks.

Ned Carey


Re: PFE R-40-19's

Tim O'Connor
 

Does the model have an APEX running board? This is the main
external difference with the -18's. Also by 1959 62501-63500
had received Preco (or Equipco fans), but in 1955 they are shown
not yet equipped with fans. According to my notes 62501-63500
were not equipped with convertible ice bunkers after 1955 but
I'm not sure where I got that tidbit of information...

Tim O'Connor

At 07:40 PM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
IM has made a version they market as a R-40-19. It is this one:
http://www.imrcmodels.com/distrib/pfe/html/47410.htm
Maybe its is just a R-30-18 with a R-40-19 badge?
David Ball

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