Date   

Speaking of Decals

golden1014
 

Brothers,

I'm doing some cleanup and have a few extra HO Champ
decals here--free for the taking. They're not more
than one year old. Here's the list:

HB-7 SAL Box Car, Robert E. Lee
HB-8 SAL Box Car, Courteous Service
NH-21 ACL Lettering Set, White
HB-321 NYC Box Car (mid-1950s style)
HN-62 MP White Lettering Set

No charge--just drop me a note off-line if you'd like
one or all at Golden1014@yahoo.com.

John



John Golden
O'Fallon, IL
http://www.pbase.com/golden1014

Hosting the St. Louis RPM Meet
25-26 Aug 2006 9AM to 9PM
Gateway Convention Center
One Gateway Center Dr.
Collinsville, IL, 62234


Re: New York Central stock car question

Jeff English
 

Bob's Photos has several photos of the NYC 22000- and 23000-series
stock cars, IIRC

Jeff English
Troy, New York
where the song "Aura Lee" was written (better known in modern times
as performed by Elvis as "Love Me Tender")

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <bwelch@...> wrote:

I started working on cleaning up one Al W's NYC stock car kits and
as I
was doing so I decided I wanted to try to find more photos than
the one
I have. THe one photo I have is from my friend, John King, and I
am not
where he got the negative. It is NYC 22080, which was built in
1921
from Lot 421 with a reweigh of BG 1-47. The car in the photo has a
wood
roof and DS ends.

Does anyone on the list know of other photos of these early cars.
I am
building an example of a car with SS ends. The kit I have has a
Murphy
roof but I am thinking, after reading a history of the cars, I may
try
to get a wood roof from Al.

Bill Welch


Re: wanted: APM Flxible Cl;ipper Bus Model

aaejj2j <tyrone.johnsen@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, PBowers <waiting@...> wrote:

I know bus is a four letter word on a lot of layouts but I'm looking
for a
American Precision Model HO Flxible Clipper bus for a railcar load.
This
is the one with the small side windows. A photo of this bus can be
found
at: <http://www.clic.net/~jacmatte/busfan/models_list/apm39001-
3.jpg> > Peter Bowers

I believe I have such a model unused. It is orange where your photo
is green. I will try to remember to check for it tonight. E-mail if
you are still interested.
Tyrone Johnsen
Rockford, IL


TC RPM aftermath

rockroll50401 <cepropst@...>
 

Erik, thanks a lot for posting the photos. I REEEAAALY appreciate
it. A
few people have asked if last years photos are still posted, and
Erik
provided me with a link:

http://www.pbase.com/ehyjek/2005_minnesota_prototype_modelers_meet

Final attendance was down a bit from last year. Around 125 this year
compared to almost 200 last year. I need to give thanks and a lot of
the credit to all the people that helped with this years meet.

Mark Klayum-check in
Steve Kopacz Tin Vitelli, and Hudson Leighton for tech assistance in
the auditorium.
The presenters-Jim Platt, Les Breuer, Doug Hodgdon, Yvonne and
Dennis
from Loksound, Jim Lawson, Louis Claeson, Bob Ball and Dawn
Holmberg,
and Clark Propst for helping get the word out on all the groups.

I also can't say enough about Maureen over at the community center.
She
has treated our get together with wonderful hospitality and a
professional job very well done.

A huge thank you to all the exhibitors for taking the time to pack
up
their models and share them with all of us. One other quick
sidebar...we had groups travel in from Whitefish MT, Iowa, northern
Minnesota, and Green Bay.

Greg Smith / Apple Valley, MN


Re: Marklin/Trix R-40-14's

Andy Carlson
 

David,
I have a lot of spare parts for Terry's various
reefers.If you want a pair of ends (or any other
part), State-side modelers can get a pair of the ends
for $3.00, postpaid.
contact me at midcentury@sbcglobal.net off-list,
please.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

--- David Ball <davidball@xtra.co.nz> wrote:

Another option would be the Terry's ends from the
R-30-18, etc kits.

The big quest may be if they are available
separately. If you need to
sacrifice a whole kit, then there wouldn't be any
cost advantages
over the Trix price (assuming you can correct the
discrepancies).

Cheers

David Ball

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "mopacfirst"
<ron.merrick@...> wrote:

Has anyone tried using the IM R-40-10 with Detail
Associates white
plastic ends? These are the ends that were
originally designed for
the Athearn car, and I know they're two or three
scale inches too
narrow for the IM R-40-23 (I once thought about
this conversion
too,
but didn't do it).
The IM kit has the beveled corners to work with
the square corner
ends, but the Detail Associates W-section end has
its own rivets so
it might be possible to trim the sides back just a
bit.
Or is this nuts?

Ron Merrick







Yahoo! Groups Links


STMFC-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com






Re: Marklin/Trix R-40-14's

David Ball
 

That was (broadly) the next question I was going to ask!

Another option would be the Terry's ends from the R-30-18, etc kits.
I'm not at home at the moment, but I look at this briefly the other
night. I can't remember the how the width compared to the IM R-40-
10, but I remember that they were a few scale inches too long.
However from memory this seemed to be in the lower plate below the
ribs, so with a bit of slicing and rejoining, they could work

The big quest may be if they are available separately. If you need to
sacrifice a whole kit, then there wouldn't be any cost advantages
over the Trix price (assuming you can correct the discrepancies).

Cheers

David Ball

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "mopacfirst" <ron.merrick@...> wrote:

Has anyone tried using the IM R-40-10 with Detail Associates white
plastic ends? These are the ends that were originally designed for
the Athearn car, and I know they're two or three scale inches too
narrow for the IM R-40-23 (I once thought about this conversion
too,
but didn't do it).
The IM kit has the beveled corners to work with the square corner
ends, but the Detail Associates W-section end has its own rivets so
it might be possible to trim the sides back just a bit.
Or is this nuts?

Ron Merrick


New York Central stock car question

lnbill <bwelch@...>
 

I started working on cleaning up one Al W's NYC stock car kits and as I
was doing so I decided I wanted to try to find more photos than the one
I have. THe one photo I have is from my friend, John King, and I am not
where he got the negative. It is NYC 22080, which was built in 1921
from Lot 421 with a reweigh of BG 1-47. The car in the photo has a wood
roof and DS ends.

Does anyone on the list know of other photos of these early cars. I am
building an example of a car with SS ends. The kit I have has a Murphy
roof but I am thinking, after reading a history of the cars, I may try
to get a wood roof from Al.

Bill Welch


Illinois Central GS gondolas questions

lnbill <bwelch@...>
 

I have a Detail Associates GS gon kit that I have for years planned
to build as an Illinois Central car, but until recently had no good
photos to work from. Within the space of few months, all of a sudden
I now have four:
94931 blt 8-53 with drop mechanisms in place-1955-Bob's Photo
96337 blt ? with drop mechanisms removed-1975-Bill Raia collection
98279 blt 4-52 with drop mechanisms removed-Nov. 1956-bob's Photo
99/// blt 2-40 with drop mechanisms removed-April 1959-bob' Photo

All of these are stenciled with an IL of 41' O" and capacity of 1947
cubic feet. 1955 ORER reveals these cars had an IH of 5 feet.

Except for the drop mechanisms being removed, all appear to be pretty
much as built. 99/// (I forgot to write the last digits) does have
retangular holes cut in the plate to which the sill steps are
attached, which look like another place for a foot. It also clearly
has the pre-war Dreadnaught ends, but I am not sure if the 1952 and
after cars have the postwar Improved Dreadnaught end.

BTW, these cars were classed "GB" by the IC. My intent is to build a
model of a 1940 example with the drop mechanisms in place. My problem
is that gons of the stenciled 1947 cu.ft. capacity do not show up in
the ORER's I own until the 1950's. Here is a summary of what I have
found.

1943 ORER 2 series a close match
82000-82719 IH & IL as above but w/1956 Cubic feet capacity
85000-85749 IH & IL as above but w/1956 Cubic feet capacity

1955 ORER 2 series an exact match
85000-85999 IH & IL as above w/1947 Cubic feet capacity
94000-95499 IH & IL as above w/1947 Cubic feet capacity

My conjecture is that the 1943 ORER capacity is in error. Also it
appears a renumbering occured. My questions are for one of these cars
in 1953, what number series would the 1940 built cars be in? Out of
curiosity I am also interested in who built these various series of
cars for the IC?

I am not interested in replys about why I am using the DA kit and not
the Red Caboose kit. If folks want to dicuss the merits of the two
kits, please change the subject line.

Bill Welch


Re: Dullcote problem/gun blush

ed_mines
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Gregg Mahlkov" <mahlkov@...> wrote:

Jared,

The cause is quite simple, it is the humidity in the air. As you
spray the
Dullcote, its temperature drops because the pressure in the can is
dropping.
This causes tiny droplets of moisture in the air to cling to the
droplets of
Dullcote, causing the "blushing" or "milky" spots.

I used to spray in a "Florida room" at the back to the house I
rented and
had to wait for an exceptionally dry day to spray Dullcote. Since
I built my
house, my spray painting is done in a heated and air conditioned
room above
the garage and I have had no further troubles with Dullcote from
a "spray
bomb"
Greg is exactly right. Spray painters call the defect he describes
gun blush. It happens when it's very humid. Droplets of moisture
condense on the cold, still wet paint. If the aerosol can of paint
chills down a lot that could make the problem worse.(Cans of air
brush propellant always did that for me).

Ed Mines


Re: Marklin/Trix R-40-14's

mopacfirst
 

Has anyone tried using the IM R-40-10 with Detail Associates white
plastic ends? These are the ends that were originally designed for
the Athearn car, and I know they're two or three scale inches too
narrow for the IM R-40-23 (I once thought about this conversion too,
but didn't do it).
The IM kit has the beveled corners to work with the square corner
ends, but the Detail Associates W-section end has its own rivets so
it might be possible to trim the sides back just a bit.
Or is this nuts?

Ron Merrick

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@...> wrote:

David Ball asked:
"What is the quality/accuracy of the Marklin/Trix R-40-14's like?"

The running board discrepancy is minor compared to the ice hatches,
which are grossly undersized. <snip>

Ben Hom


Re: Intersting photos on ebay

ed_mines
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, cascaderail <cascaderail@...> wrote:

Check this out for some Sinclair tank cars and a NYC cars shops photo
(scan down to see these items)

<http://cgi.ebay.com/RAILROAD-TRAINS-C-1922-16x22-Photos-Collection-
of-
7_W0QQitemZ6604938387QQcategoryZ35975QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewI
tem>
A few very nice pics!!!!!!!!!!

Ed


Re: Dullcote blushing

Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...>
 

I don't use Dullcote any more because I've switched to acrylic paints, and
Polly Scale Clear Flat is a good flat finish I can thin with distilled
water. When I did use Dullcote, though, I NEVER used a spray can (not since
about 1965, anyway). I bought my Dullcote in a bottle, thinned it with
ordinary (meaning dangerous!) lacquer thinner, and sprayed it with an
airbrush. That completely eliminated blushing problems. Well, there was that
time I tried weathering a Dullcote-sprayed car with turpentine and oil paint
washes, but that's another story.

So long,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
Executive Editor
Model Railroader magazine
asperandeo@mrmag.com
262-796-8776, ext. 461
FAX 262-796-11142


Welded tanks and knuckle radius

mopacfirst
 

Pat Wider posted a builders photo of UTLX 39150 in December. Now
I've looked at this thing more closely, versus all the ACF shots in
the Kaminski tank car book, and one more thing that I see is that the
knuckle radius on the heads is much larger on this car than on most
of the other welded tanks built during the late 40s - early 50s when
the welded tanks were first built. (Knuckle radius is a pressure
equipment term, the "knuckle" on a tank head being that part between
the tangent and the main semi-spherical portion of the head, you
might say the "corner".) The dome head on the other hand has a very
tight knuckle radius.
Question is, first, am I seeing this right? The apparent contour of
the tank handrail seems to bear it out. Second, is it a fair
conclusion that most of the early welded tanks had a really tight
knuckle radius like most riveted tanks did, and this is an anomaly or
an experiment? The heads on this car look to me like normal
ellipsoidal heads, which I should be able to get from Plastruct or
similar. By the way, the Red Caboose model has the really tight
radius heads and dome head.
It looks like by the mid-fifties, when the Kaminski tank car book
ends, the ellipsoidal head had become the normal choice. This makes
sense since the larger radii are better for resisting pressure and it
may be easier to press a head with the larger radius.

Comments?

Ron Merrick


Re: 2006 Rosemount RPM meet photos

rockroll50401 <cepropst@...>
 

my camera is a Canon 20D.

Erik Hyjek

nice photography Erik! Canon digital slr?

Tim O'Connor


Dullcote blushing

Doug Polinder
 

Mike Rose's article on using Dullcote and alcohol for blushing effects appeared in the July 2003 RMC.

Doug Polinder
Lowell MI


Doug Polinder
Grand Rapids MI

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail
Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.


Re: R-40-23 w/ diagonal panel roof?

jaley <jaley@...>
 

Thanks to Charles, Tony, Tim, and Andy for responding to my message. All
have said that there is no such animal as an R-40-23 with a dp roof.

Because this is a factory-assembled model, I will contact IM and see if
they will exchange it.

Regards,

-Jeff

On Feb 12, 7:15pm, Mr Charles burns wrote:
Subject: Re: [STMFC] R-40-23 w/ diagonal panel roof?
Hello Jeff,All
I made some R-40-25s in N by kitbashing a diagonal
panel roof. The ends on the 25's have an extra small
rib at the top, and the dropsteps are a different
style, without the sidesill tab.
The Thompson PFE book {Bible on the cars!} shows all
of these features.
Charlie Burns
ESPEE coastline '64 in N.

--- jaley <jaley@pcocd2.intel.com> wrote:

I recently purchased a factory assembled HO scale IM
R-40-23.

I immediately noticed that the car has a diagonal
panel roof. The car is
lettered as an R-40-23.

My first thought was that IM had accidentally put
the wrong paint scheme
on an R-40-25 body, but the ends lack the extra top
rib of the R-40-25.

My question: was there any such car (R-40-23 w/
diagonal panel roof)? I
could not find one in Thompson, Church & Jones'
book.

I thought I'd double-check here before I contact IM
to see if I can get a
replacement.

Thanks,

-Jeff

--
Jeff Aley jaley@pcocd2.intel.com
DPG Chipsets Product Engineering
Intel Corporation, Folsom, CA
(916) 356-3533

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Yahoo! Groups Links




-- End of excerpt from Mr Charles burns
--
Jeff Aley jaley@pcocd2.intel.com
DPG Chipsets Product Engineering
Intel Corporation, Folsom, CA
(916) 356-3533


Re: R-40-23 w/ diagonal panel roof?

Mr Charles burns
 

Hello Jeff,All
I made some R-40-25s in N by kitbashing a diagonal
panel roof. The ends on the 25's have an extra small
rib at the top, and the dropsteps are a different
style, without the sidesill tab.
The Thompson PFE book {Bible on the cars!} shows all
of these features.
Charlie Burns
ESPEE coastline '64 in N.

--- jaley <jaley@pcocd2.intel.com> wrote:

I recently purchased a factory assembled HO scale IM
R-40-23.

I immediately noticed that the car has a diagonal
panel roof. The car is
lettered as an R-40-23.

My first thought was that IM had accidentally put
the wrong paint scheme
on an R-40-25 body, but the ends lack the extra top
rib of the R-40-25.

My question: was there any such car (R-40-23 w/
diagonal panel roof)? I
could not find one in Thompson, Church & Jones'
book.

I thought I'd double-check here before I contact IM
to see if I can get a
replacement.

Thanks,

-Jeff

--
Jeff Aley jaley@pcocd2.intel.com
DPG Chipsets Product Engineering
Intel Corporation, Folsom, CA
(916) 356-3533

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


Re: 1943 Tank Car Ownerships

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Al Brown wrote:
Columbia Southern Chemical (SACX, PPGX)
No such company. SACX was Southern Alkali (50 cars), PPGX was
Pittsburgh Plate Glass, Columbia Chemical Div (PPGX and CACX 119
cars together). Did these maybe merge later to form Columbia
Southern?
Yes.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: UTLX.

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Feb 12, 2006, at 12:28 PM, Arnold wrote:

I'm sorry.....my mistake.
I do mean the 2 revited types, 8.000 & 10.000 gallons.
To the best of my knowledge, UTLX did not own either 8K or 10K Type
27s. Certainly they didn't buy any new from AC&F, and I have never
seen photos of any UTLX Type 27s acquired 2nd hand.

Richard Hendrickson


KCS 15500-155599

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

Greg's handout from Cocoa Beach says "freight car Red" for the body color.
Can anyone supply a good match for this car in Pollyscale, or other
waterbase paint.

Brian J Carlson P.E.
Cheektowaga NY

134801 - 134820 of 186212