i've never tried spraying it.

You guys are right! Has anyone informed Kadee? They may still have time to
correct it before they get printed.



Elden Gatwood



________________________________

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Terry
Link
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 7:24 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] South Buffalo



Kadee announced they are releasing the 2 bay offset hopper in South Buffalo
stock #7024 - ( was hoping they would do this road). Problem is, the
lettering on the model is white.

Any South Buffalo car I've seen has always had yellow lettering.

Does anyone know if there were any cars painted white lettering ?

Terry Link
Bramalea, Ontario, Canada
trlink@... <mailto:trlink%40canadasouthern.com>
www.canadasouthern.com

Thanks to all for the info. I am thinking Intermountain with a plug
door from Branchline or somebody and leave it at that.

The third truck in the middle is no problem--I put those on all my
cars for extra tracking!

Steve Kay

You will have to kitbash the off-center , third truck. ;-)


regards,

Andy Miller

Tim,
What solvent did you use to thin it for spraying?
John Cizmar

Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Charlie here is the original message. This is the brand I bought.
I found it at a local pharmacy or Walmart, one or the other.
Tim O'Connor

----------------------------------------------------------

I think I may have found something that seems to stick to the
Delrin type plastic. After using it on some parts we put some on sheet
plastic and it seemed to be pretty firm.
It was black finger nail polich called Sally Hansen, Hard as Nails,
Xtreme Wear and labeled Black Out. It was purchased at an Ulta store.
It was also available in Silver and White plus many other colors. Most
likely other brands may be similar in durability.
We even spray painted over the coating and that seemed to also adhere.
It wasn't too expensive so shop around in that type department and give
something a try on grabs, trucks etc. Jim Elliot

-------------------------------------------------------

At 4/10/2007 03:28 PM Tuesday, you wrote:

Tim-
Could you mention the brand (again?)
Charlie Vlk


I also bought a small bottle of black nail polish someone recommended.
It is supposed to stick like crazy to delrin and other slippery plastics. In
some cases these are the only things that need to be 'primed'. Failing
that, I grit blast the delrin parts.

---------------------------------
It's here! Your new message!
Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.

When I'm scratchbuilding I always rough up all of my styrene surfaces to one degree or another because I use them to represent wood. I use anything from a scotchbrite pad to 36 grit sandpaper. I don't find I have to prime or airbrush to get even coats. I drybrush my models with multiple coats of cheap craft paints, other people seem to like the results and I like them too. Follow this up with acrylic ink stains and Bragdon's weather powders to taste.

You can use the same techniques to a certain degree on resin.

I was recently complemented on my airbrush technique. Maybe I should buy one ;)

http://pcrnmra.org/coast/contest/2007_March_Images/2007_Mar_Model_Contest_MOW_2nd_Jim_Eckman_On30_Ballast_Spreader_1.jpg
http://www.pcrnmra.org/coast/contest/2007_March_Images/2007_Mar_Model_Contest_Freight_Car_1st_Jim_Eckman_On30_AMR_Boxcar.jpg

Jim

Charlie here is the original message. This is the brand I bought.
I found it at a local pharmacy or Walmart, one or the other.
Tim O'Connor

---------------------------------------------------------------

I think I may have found something that seems to stick to the
Delrin type plastic. After using it on some parts we put some on sheet
plastic and it seemed to be pretty firm.
It was black finger nail polich called Sally Hansen, Hard as Nails,
Xtreme Wear and labeled Black Out. It was purchased at an Ulta store.
It was also available in Silver and White plus many other colors. Most
likely other brands may be similar in durability.
We even spray painted over the coating and that seemed to also adhere.
It wasn't too expensive so shop around in that type department and give
something a try on grabs, trucks etc. Jim Elliot

-------------------------------------------------------



At 4/10/2007 03:28 PM Tuesday, you wrote:

Tim-
Could you mention the brand (again?)
Charlie Vlk


I also bought a small bottle of black nail polish someone recommended.
It is supposed to stick like crazy to delrin and other slippery plastics. In
some cases these are the only things that need to be 'primed'. Failing
that, I grit blast the delrin parts.

Actually, the dreadnaught end model is currently out of production. - Al Westerfield

Jim Pasquill wrote:
"I will continue to learn and research but have come up with a
preliminary list of cars that should be suitable for my 1929 Maine
Central Farmington or Wiscasset yard scene. The list is below. I
welcome comments."

I'm currently on a business trip to Miami this week and am away from
many of my resources - here are some preliminary comments on your
list:

"F&C 3051 USRA 40' DS Boxcar with Facial Board backdated with K
brakes"

What the heck is a "facial board"? :-)
Seriously, you might want to double check period photos of these cars
to see if they got the FASCIA boards by the late 1920s. The Funaro
decals are also too late and are suspect as to accuracy. (This goes
for the other Funaro kits as well - recommend verifying any Funaro
decals before use - some of them leave something to be desired. You
may have to replace them at any rate to match your era.) Recommend
you use the Westerfield kit for the B&M USRA DS boxcar instead - it
will come with the correct brake details and correct period decals.


"Bowser GLa #56205 PRR 'Early Lettering'"

You will need to backdate the brake system for this car - the Bowser
kit comes with AB brakes. I also don't like the Bowser prewar PRR
Freight Car Color, which I feel is too brown. Recommend using an
undec (or strip and repaint) with Floquil or Polly Scale Zinc
Chromate Primer and letter with Westerfield decals (available
separately).


"X29 boxcars RC-7153 ARA X29 Plate End Box Car MEC"

Be advised that these cars had the ARA side sheathing rivet pattern
vice the either X29 pattern and had early Viking roofs:
http://www.steamfreightcars.com/calendar/2002/nap02/mec5044.html


"42' Fish Belly Side Sill Flat Cars"

Red Caboose offered this model in a late 1920s-early 1930s New York
Central scheme, complete with an S-prefix car number.

I also recommend adding a Red Caboose PRR Class X29 boxcar, backdated
to either of the two 1920s PRR freight car schemes (not available
from Red Caboose and will have to be pieced from Westerfield X25
sets), and a post-safety appliances Westerfield PRR Class XL boxcar.
The X29 was equally as plentiful as the NYC USRA-design steel boxcar,
and though the XL was being replaced as the X29 program progressed
during the 1920s, it was still in service in large numbers (over
30,000 cars) in the late 1920s.


Ben Hom

The car appears to be NRC 5102 (Northern Refrigerator Line) but resolution is not so hot on my monitor either.
Charlie Vlk

The W&R cars did not include decals, unlike many of their other
freight cars. The Microscale decals came out about the same time.

Tim

If Charlie says the car had welded sides, then your only choice
would seem to be the old Front Range 50 foot welded body with 8
foot door opening. A standard PS-1 had a flush roof however, so
that roof will not do. You can use the current Accurail rendition
of that body too, if you don't mind cast on details. But that car
has an attached flush roof and attached dreadnaught ends.

The Rr-57 series, built by Pullman, had riveted sides for sure.
Those were in number series 6000-6299 built in 1955. Here is the
(inaccurate) Accurail version of it.

http://www.accurail.com/accurail/art/5100/5101.jpg

Tim O'Connor

Steve

SFRB 6400-6549 built 1958 Pullman-Standard, class Rr-59

No kit, but a kitbash -- PS ZU-eave roof from Athearn NACC box car
kit (undec), PS-1 ends from Intermountain, riveted 16 panel box car
body with 8' plug door from Branchline, plus Plano running board
(Morton pattern??) and Branchline underframe and scale Accumates
w/ draft gear. Trucks may be ASF-3 (Kato or Kadee) but not sure.
Decals Microscale 87-506 (also check out 87-264 or 87-267).

Builder photo, SFRB 6460, page 170 of "The Great Yellow Fleet"
Photo shows car lettered for Super Chief, so be sure to match your
model's reporting marks with known use of a slogan! :-)

The doors were originally yellow or white, I'm not sure which.

Tim O'Connor

Steve that is a 50 foot PS-1 car built by Pullman. It is a Santa Fe class Rr-59 from series
6400-6549 built in 1958. It is painted mineral brown with an 8 foot orange plug door and
large "DF Insulated" also in orange on the car side.
I think Kadee and Intermountain both make models of the PS-1.
Take Care
Charlie Slater

From: "up4024" <thekays100@...>
Reply-To: STMFC@...
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] SFRB Boxcar
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 02:29:06 -0000

Can anyone make a suggestion as to a kit that would be accurate for
this:

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/atsf/sfrb6490l.jpg

Thanks

Steve Kay

_________________________________________________________________
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps. http://maps.live.com/?icid=hmtag3

--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...>
wrote:

The Socony-Vaccum Oil Co. of New York neither owned its own tank cars
nor leased cars under its own reporting marks and with its own
paint/lettering. As a former member of the Standard Oil family, Socony
probably used cars leased from the Union Tank Line to transport bulk
products in the New England area. Life-Like (now Walthers) has offered
models of UTLX-owned AC&F Type 21 tank cars with AB brakes and '40s or
later lettering which could be back-dated.

Thank you for the information. That explains why SOCONY could be the
largest supplier of fuel in Maine and why I've never found a photo of
a tank car lettered for SOCONY other than the 2 B&SR cars. -Jim

On Apr 10, 2007, at 5:13 PM, red_gate_rover wrote:

I am not familiar enough with tank cars to know what I should get but
would like something that might have had SOCONY letering on it. I also
have not determined what reefers might have made deliveries in Maine
in the 20s.

The Socony-Vaccum Oil Co. of New York neither owned its own tank cars
nor leased cars under its own reporting marks and with its own
paint/lettering. As a former member of the Standard Oil family, Socony
probably used cars leased from the Union Tank Line to transport bulk
products in the New England area. Life-Like (now Walthers) has offered
models of UTLX-owned AC&F Type 21 tank cars with AB brakes and '40s or
later lettering which could be back-dated. Sunshine offers resin
models for several different types of UTLX cars that were in service in
the 1920s. You might also want to consider some forthcoming Walthers
(ex-Life-Like) models of AC&F Type 21s which will have KC air brakes
and 1920s lettering, as some of these will represent cars (e.g., Shell,
Texaco) which might have turned up in the area you model.

Richard Hendrickson

Can anyone make a suggestion as to a kit that would be accurate for
this:

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/atsf/sfrb6490l.jpg

Thanks

Steve Kay

On Tue, April 10, 2007 7:13 pm, red_gate_rover wrote:

I am not familiar enough with tank cars to know what I should get but

would like something that might have had SOCONY letering on it. I also
have not determined what reefers might have made deliveries in Maine in
the 20s.

Tank cars that are appropriate:
- the AC&F type 21 is called that because it originated in 1921. LifeLike
P2K has an excellent model. You'll need to backdate it to K brakes (as
detailed in the list archives)
- Precision Scale makes a kit of a UTLX 6K "Van Dyke" frameless tank car -
F&C offers a tank car that is really an AC&F type 11
I'll leave lettering up to others to comment on.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Tue, April 10, 2007 7:13 pm, red_gate_rover wrote:

I am not familiar enough with tank cars to know what I should get but
would like something that might have had SOCONY letering on it. I also
have not determined what reefers might have made deliveries in Maine
in the 20s.

Tank cars that are appropriate:
- the AC&F type 21 is called that because it originated in 1921. LifeLike
P2K has an excellent model. You'll need to backdate it to K brakes (as
detailed in the list archives)
- Precision Scale makes a kit of a UTLX 6K "Van Dyke" frameless tank car
- F&C offers a tank car that is really an AC&F type 11
I'll leave lettering up to others to comment on.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

Thanks all for the info.

KL