Date   

Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers

Bruce Smith
 

On Mar 23, 2008, at 11:08 PM, Jim Williams wrote:
Hi......I do the following usually with 50+ axels at a time. First I primer the wheels. After they dry, I use a 50-50 mixture of Flouquil Rust and Roof Brown on inside and outside of the wheels. ............ Again after the wheel sets dry I install back in the sideframes and darken or lighten them with washes of gray or grimy black as I weather the bolsters.
Jim,

It's not clear from your post just how much you weather the faces of your wheels, and you do not state if these are for roller or plain bearing trucks so I wanted to point out that, as has been said here repeatedly, the outer wheel faces on plain bearing trucks should show NO RUST at all, unless the car has just been to the RIP track for new wheels. The "seals" on plain bearing trucks leaked oil at prodigious rates leading to a coating of oil and grime within a few miles.

To paint my wheels, I use a cardboard mask set and then spray rust on the inner faces and axles and grimy black, or weathered black or oily black on the outer faces. Subsequent weathering while on the car tones down the rust and blends the different blacks.


Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
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Ribbed Side Gondolas

sswcharlie <techj@...>
 

Cotton Belt had some 54 ft gondolas with horizontal ribbed sides (
e.g. SSW
71192 etc)

Has anyone produced a model in HO of these ?

Does anyone produce ribbed patterns for kit bashing ?

Charlie Harris


Re: RMC article Spetember 2005 on 1932 ARA steel box cars

Tom Madden <tgmadden@...>
 

Tom Baker wrote:

I am currently working on a model of the SAL 1932 ARA box car in S
scale. Creating the car in S scale requires considerable
kitbashing, but it can be done. My question regards the drawings
of the SAL car that once appeared in an issue of MM.

The drawings clearly show the flat, overlapping riveted panels, but
I perceive some conflict in the Sunshine kit Ted used to create the
SAL version of the ARA car. The overlapping panels in the drawing
appear to be of equal width from end to end, wheareas the Sunshine
car reveals the end roof panels to be more narrow than are the
panels following.
The 1937 CBC drawing included in Ted's book on the 1932 cars shows
the end panels slightly narrower than the others.

The Sunshine kit also shows what on the prototype would appear to
be a metal strip separating one roof panel from the other.
Again, the CBC drawing (of a carbuilder's roof) shows raised seam
overlaps on the otherwise flat roofs. I presume it isn't a separate
strip, just an offset formed into a panel edge.

I do not mean to criticize either the drawings in MM nor the
Sunshine kit. I know that Martin Lofton does his research
carefully before creating any of his kits. I am only trying to
determine what the correct procedure would be for me in creating
the roof of the SAL car in S scale.
I'm surprised someone more knowledgeable than I hasn't responded. I
have a Sunshine 1932 SAL express car in my "dead kit" pile because
the roof casting has a significant lateral curve near one end. Plus
the casting is, well.... lumpy. The flat areas aren't really flat.
(That may disappear beneath weathering.) Tricia Lofton sent a
replacement a week ago and it has the same defects, so I'm looking to
construct a new roof. I'm having the same question as Tom Baker -
should the roof panel overlaps be flat, like the PRR X29, or have
raised seams? The photos of SAL cars in Ted's book aren't definitive,
but if there _are_ raised seams, they aren't obvious.

Tom Madden


Re: New Accurail C&NW Gondola

Tim O'Connor
 

thanks Brian I'll check it out.. i knew they did special runs with
decals but i didn't realize they did it for stock models.

Tim

At 3/23/2008 10:07 PM Sunday, you wrote:
Tim: They do if you don't mind decaling. They have multiple numbers printed
on decal paper to match the car color.

Brian J Carlson P.E.
Cheektowaga NY


Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers

Jim Williams <wwww5960@...>
 

Hi all.....Sorry for the previous response with the bad english. I hit send before I proofed. Corrected below.....

Hi......I do the following usually with 50+ axels at a time. First I primer the wheels. After they dry, I use a 50-50 mixture of Flouquil Rust and Roof Brown on inside and outside of the wheels. ............ Again after the wheel sets dry I install back in the sideframes and darken or lighten them with washes of gray or grimy black as I weather the bolsters.

On the sideframes I use washes of rust, Roof brown, grays and black depending on the car type and whether the truck is red or black. ....I like the results and the slight variation I get without any real effort. I would recommend you experiment with an old set and see if you don't fine the process fairly simple. ....best Jim Williams





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FW: (erielack) Freight Yard

Schuyler Larrabee
 

The original poster on the erielack list helped us out:

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-03-23-08/Cars_in_Binghamton_Yard_Circa_1937.jpg

As clear a view as we'll get from this photograph.

SGL

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron

http://lists.railfan.net/listthumb.cgi?erielack-03-23-08

Cars_in_Binghamton_Yard_Circa_1937.jpg (image/jpeg, 3259x725 243282 bytes, BF: 9.71 ppb)

Schuyler,

Since the background is of interest, I've rescanned it at 800 and worked it up as best I can.

Ron


Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers

Jim Williams <wwww5960@...>
 

Hi......I do the following usually with 50+ axels at a time. First I primer I using a 50-50 mixture of Flouquil Rust and Roof Brown on inside and outside of the wheels. ............After the wheel sets dry I install back in the bolsters and darken or lighten them with washes of gray or grimy black as I weather the bolsters.

On the bolsters I use washes of rust, Roof brown, grays and black depending on the car type and whether the bolster is red or black. ....I like the results and the slight variation I get without any real effort. I would recommend you experiment with an old set and see if you don't fine the process fairly simple. ....best Jim Williams

----- Original Message ----
From: Dean Payne <1payne1@windstream.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 11:44:12 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers

I read a recent post on the EarlyRails group that suggested weathering
wheels with a rusty mixture on the inside face, and a grimy/oily black
mixture on the outside face. This seems to make sense, and reminded
me of a photo that bothered me, on page 95 of the January 2007 RMC.
The trucks are painted oxide red with a dusting of weathering powders.
Unfortunately, the brake shoes were missed, and the color makes them
stand out (probably more in the photo than to the naked eye). I would
expect the brake shoes to be the first things to get dirty, with brake
and wheel dust, etc. It only stands out so much because the rest of
the car is so well done.
I also remember reading to brush some oily black on the journal covers
(from Mont Switzer?) I haven't gotten that involved with weathering
trucks, yet.
Hoppers are another thing that I need to get weathered. Since they
usually are black and haul coal, I think that some rust around the
seams and some black to obscure the lettering would be a good start.
I haven't seen a good color photo of a hopper interior, I'm trying to
imagine rust and coal dust together...
I've heard that Badger Modelflex is a good acrylic rust color, my
bottle is due for replacement. Or, is PS Rail Brown preferred?

Dean Payne





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Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers

Dean Payne
 

I read a recent post on the EarlyRails group that suggested weathering
wheels with a rusty mixture on the inside face, and a grimy/oily black
mixture on the outside face. This seems to make sense, and reminded
me of a photo that bothered me, on page 95 of the January 2007 RMC.
The trucks are painted oxide red with a dusting of weathering powders.
Unfortunately, the brake shoes were missed, and the color makes them
stand out (probably more in the photo than to the naked eye). I would
expect the brake shoes to be the first things to get dirty, with brake
and wheel dust, etc. It only stands out so much because the rest of
the car is so well done.
I also remember reading to brush some oily black on the journal covers
(from Mont Switzer?) I haven't gotten that involved with weathering
trucks, yet.
Hoppers are another thing that I need to get weathered. Since they
usually are black and haul coal, I think that some rust around the
seams and some black to obscure the lettering would be a good start.
I haven't seen a good color photo of a hopper interior, I'm trying to
imagine rust and coal dust together...
I've heard that Badger Modelflex is a good acrylic rust color, my
bottle is due for replacement. Or, is PS Rail Brown preferred?

Dean Payne


Re: HO screen material

Jared Harper <harper-brown@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnnrr" <lnnrr@...> wrote:

I'm wanting to put window screens on some HO MoW camp cars.
Any suggestions for something that would give that screen look?
Chuck Peck
Very fine screen is available from Small Parts online. I have some
that I use for window and door screens in HO. It is used for filters
in the medical field.
Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Steve Lucas' lead to great photos

Schuyler Larrabee
 


Re: New Accurail C&NW Gondola

Schuyler Larrabee
 


Tom

I do not know about the gondolas specifically, but C&NW
definitely was using the huge billboard C&NW lettering as
early as February 1956.

That's a sharp looking model! Thanks for pointing it out.
I wish Accurail did multiple car numbers...

Tim O'Connor

Well, Tim, Accurail does do the renumbering decals with the background the >>exact<< same color as
the car body. We've used those on the custom cars we had done for the Club ( www.nsmrrc.org ) and
they are invisible when completed.

SGL


Re: New Accurail C&NW Gondola

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

Tim: They do if you don't mind decaling. They have multiple numbers printed
on decal paper to match the car color.

Brian J Carlson P.E.
Cheektowaga NY

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim O'Connor" <timboconnor@comcast.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] New Accurail C&NW Gondola


That's a sharp looking model! Thanks for pointing it out.
I wish Accurail did multiple car numbers...

Tim O'Connor


Re: CPR 1937 boxcar ends

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

Sylvan Scale Models makes these CPR 5/5 ends--

http://www.isp.ca/sylvan/detail.htm

(hope that Yahoo pastes the URL properly this time)

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "mcindoefalls" <mcindoefalls@...> wrote:

I'm about to begin assembling some Branchline Yardmaster Canadian
Pacific 1937 boxcar kits. The kit ends have 4 corrugations over 5,
while the CPR cars had 5 over 5. Does someone make a 5/5 end that can
be adapted to these kits?

Walt Lankenau


Re: HO screen material

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

I used 200-grit sandpaper to score lines on clear styrene sheet. I
first rubbed the sandpaper once vertically, and then once horizontally
on the styrene. The resulting scratches are flooded with diluted flat
black paint. The paint is wiped carefully with a facial tissue before
it can dry, leaving the appearance of screen material on the styrene
sheet.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnnrr" <lnnrr@...> wrote:

I'm wanting to put window screens on some HO MoW camp cars.
Any suggestions for something that would give that screen look?
Chuck Peck


Re: HO screen material

W.R.Dixon
 

william darnaby wrote:
I have made easy caboose door screen with .005 clear styrene. Sand the material in a criscross pattern to dull it and make it slightly opaque. Then glue on prepainted door framing made of styrene 1 by stock.
Bill Darnaby
You might also check holiday ribbons. They often have fine mesh sections that are use able as screen material.

Bill Dixon


Re: HO screen material

Bill Darnaby
 

I have made easy caboose door screen with .005 clear styrene. Sand the material in a criscross pattern to dull it and make it slightly opaque. Then glue on prepainted door framing made of styrene 1 by stock.

Bill Darnaby


Re: New Accurail C&NW Gondola

Tim O'Connor
 

Tom

I do not know about the gondolas specifically, but C&NW
definitely was using the huge billboard C&NW lettering as
early as February 1956.

That's a sharp looking model! Thanks for pointing it out.
I wish Accurail did multiple car numbers...

Tim O'Connor

"When did C&NW start using the billboard lettering on the side of its ARR 40'Gons a la Accurail ? The model shows "new 4-56" with the large C&NW, we are a bit skeptical of the new date."

Here is the url for this model:
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/ART/3700/3702.jpg

My opinionis that this maybe a combination of two schemes from different periods, although I maybe wrong.

Can anyone answer this one?

Regards,

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302)738-4292
tmolsen@udel.edu


New Accurail C&NW Gondola

tmolsen@...
 

List:

I have a friend in the UK who has asked the following question:

"When did C&NW start using the billboard lettering on the side of its ARR 40'Gons a la Accurail ? The model shows "new 4-56" with the large C&NW, we are a bit skeptical of the new date."

Here is the url for this model:
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/ART/3700/3702.jpg

My opinionis that this maybe a combination of two schemes from different periods, although I maybe wrong.

Can anyone answer this one?

Regards,

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302)738-4292
tmolsen@udel.edu


Re: New Accurail C&NW Gondola

Walter Cox
 

In a message dated 3/23/2008 7:05:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
timboconnor@comcast.net writes:

<<I wish Accurail did multiple car numbers.>>


They (Accurail) include a mail in slip in their CN SS box car kits. Mail it
in and they will send additional numbers for that car type. They may include
it in other kits as well.
Walt Cox



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Re: CPR 1937 boxcar ends

mcindoefalls
 

Ben and Tim,

Thanks for the memory jog re: the Sylvan (CRMPG) resin ends, and the
Red Caboose 1937 car. Turns out I have a stash of RC cars in the Spans
the World scheme. I had found the paint and lettering of the earlier
scheme on the Branchline cars appealing, but now it's apparent that
carving off the ladders and grabs is probably not a good use of time
vs. painting and lettering some RC cars. Either way, I'll need to
order a few sets of ends; hope they're still being made.

Walt Lankenau

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