Date   

Re: Taking Apart a Sunshine Model

Tony Higgins
 

I have never taken a whole model apart but I have successfully de
bonded body joints I was unhappy with. I used acetone and a q-tip.
Just keep soaking the q-tip and wiping the joint. It takes time but
it'll eventually weaken the joint. Be careful and you can get it
apart without breaking.

Tony Higgins

--- In STMFC@..., "oandle" <oandle@...> wrote:

-I haven't tried this myself but I'm led to believe ACC weakens in
freezing temps so if you put the finished model in the freezer for
a
while it should be relatively easy to pry apart.
Bob Weston
-- In STMFC@..., John Golden <golden1014@> wrote:
Gentlemen,

. Does anyone
have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC?
Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing
it, but nothing's worked. Thanks!

John

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet
15 & 16 August, 2008
Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL

Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at
http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all


Re: Sunshine Kits

Allen Rueter
 

John,
if you don't get any bites by StL RPM, bring it and I'll buy it.

--
Allen Rueter
StLouis MO


Re: Taking Apart a Sunshine Model

Mike Fortney
 

John, I've had good fortune using Uncure, a 30-120 second ACC debonder
which was custom-labeled for the LHS. I kept the joint coated with
Uncure using a Q-tip, then gently started working the parts apart. It
does take almost the entire two minutes to loosen but once the joint
separation starts, it's a piece o' cake. Uncure turns the ACC into a
gooey paste which cleans right off with NO damage to the resin parts
and NO marring of the surfaces. Uncure is also handy to remove the
errant glob of ACC which can otherwise mar a model's surface.

Mike Fortney

--- In STMFC@..., John Golden <golden1014@...> wrote:

Gentlemen,

I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car)
that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the
ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone
have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC?
Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing
it, but nothing's worked. Thanks!

John



John Golden
Bloomington, IN

Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet
15 & 16 August, 2008
Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL

Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at
http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all


Re: St. Louis RPM Meet - 15 & 16 Aug, 2008-----What about the Denver RPM????

Chuck Cover <cecover@...>
 

Group,

The St. Louis RPM meeting sounds great. Are there any updates on the Rocky Mountain RPM meeting later this month in Denver? I am seeing no new information on the Denver area meet. Any new speakers or vendors? Thanks

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM


Re: Taking Apart a Sunshine Model

Bob Weston
 

-I haven't tried this myself but I'm led to believe ACC weakens in
freezing temps so if you put the finished model in the freezer for a
while it should be relatively easy to pry apart.
Bob Weston

-- In STMFC@..., John Golden <golden1014@...> wrote:
Gentlemen,

. Does anyone
have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC?
Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing
it, but nothing's worked. Thanks!

John

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet
15 & 16 August, 2008
Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL

Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at
http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all


Re: Color Matching for Freight Cars

randyhees <hees@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., water.kresse@... wrote:

C&O 1920s cabeeses were apparently painted Metallic or Princes
Brown, was this a gloss rating or a redness rating say over C&O
Freight Car Brown of that era?

Al Kresse
Prince's Metalic Paint was a high end mineral red paint... from a
1883 ad in Painting and Painters' Materials, published by the
Railroad Gazette...

"Prince's Metallic Paint Contains 72% of Per [sic]Oxide of Iron and
28% of Drier. It is better than Venetian Red, Red Lead, or an Iron
Oxide because it contains a natural drier, will not fade, scale or
chalk off, and will cover twice as much surface as White or Red
Lead. Sulphurous gasses and salt air do not affect it... We only
make one color "Brown""

Similarly, the SP (and UP) "box car red" color at the turn of the
century was called "Metallic" as a reference to the use of iron
oxide as a base. We did a match for a narrow gauge box restoration
(from fragments found on the car body) and the SP color was a very
brown BCR, similar to Hershey bar when fresh.

All linseed oil paints are glossy when fresh. They weather to a
flatter, greyer color over a couple of years (this might be a
modeling issue... linseed oil paints do weather differntly than the
later enamels.)

I suspect the biggest change in the color of SP Metallic came in the
1920's when they changed from linseed oil based paints to automotive
enamel style paint. We have one SP car which stayed in service until
1960, its paint is noticably redder than the turn of the century
color.

Randy Hees
www.spcrr.org


-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Mike Brock" <brockm@...>
Walter Clark writes:

"Mike, UP "Boxcar Red," which is actually named Metallic was (I
understand) more red and less brown than the SP paint of the same
name, at least by WWII. Back when Mr. Harriman combined UP, SP
etc.,
into the group that was later broken up after his death
the "Metallic"
was the same for SP and UP (and the others). Now, when did they UP
and SP start to drift apart on their definition of Metallic?"

I'll let SP gurus...Tony Thompson?...respond about SP. According
to the late
Terry Metcalfe in his UP frt cars 1936-51, Metallic was replaced
by
Synthetic Red in 1937 beginning with the B-50-22 and 23 classes.
Terry
believed that Synthetic Red was a little bit redder than Metallic.
Terry
suggested that Scalecoat Oxide Red was a good choice for either. I
think
Polyscale Oxide Red is a good choice. It certainly gets you in the
ball
park.

In 1941 you would see both paints in use. I doubt that you could
tell which
one was on a car due to reasons that, if we don't now know, we'll
never
know...

Mike Brock






Re: Taking Apart a Sunshine Model

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

John,
&nbsp;
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I have deconstructed a couple resin kits that needed more patience to get right.
One thing i found is being able to "gently" tweak a small screw driver on the seams; another way is with a new razor blade and a lot of slow motion; and the trusty exacto
blade which can be slid along a seam. It takes time and patience. If you hurry the task, it gets bigger to repair.
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Once you get it apart, remember to lightly sand off the CA residue to insure a complete bond when reassembling. Thankfully, I have not had to remove minute details.
Others on this list may have better ideas on this one. Most time when it happens to me, I end up drilling tiny holes and insetring wire stiffeners to hold everything together.
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Hope this helps with your question.
&nbsp;
Fred Freitas

--- On Tue, 6/10/08, jamesfellows@... <jamesfellows@...> wrote:

From: jamesfellows@... <jamesfellows@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Taking Apart a Sunshine Model
To: STMFC@...
Date: Tuesday, June 10, 2008, 3:11 PM






I disaseebled an F&amp;C NH coach by droping a Lecia M3 on it. Unfortunitly I ended up with many more parts then the kit came with.

Jim Fellows

------------ -- Original message ------------ --
From: John Golden <golden1014@yahoo. com>
Gentlemen,

I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car)
that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the
ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone
have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC?
Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing
it, but nothing's worked. Thanks!

John

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet
15 &amp; 16 August, 2008
Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL

Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at
http://www.pbase. com/golden1014/ 2006_st_louis_ rpm_meet&amp; page=all


Re: Taking Apart a Sunshine Model

James Fellows
 

I disaseebled an F&C NH coach by droping a Lecia M3 on it. Unfortunitly I ended up with many more parts then the kit came with.

Jim Fellows

-------------- Original message --------------
From: John Golden <golden1014@...>
Gentlemen,

I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car)
that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the
ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone
have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC?
Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing
it, but nothing's worked. Thanks!

John

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet
15 & 16 August, 2008
Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL

Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at
http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all


Re: Taking Apart a Sunshine Model

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

John--

Some nail polish remover or acetone, perhaps? Be very careful using
this stuff around any styrene details on the car, though.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., John Golden <golden1014@...> wrote:

Gentlemen,

I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car)
that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the
ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone
have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC?
Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing
it, but nothing's worked. Thanks!

John



John Golden
Bloomington, IN

Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet
15 & 16 August, 2008
Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL

Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at
http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all


Re: BAR/USATC 36' Single Sheathed Boxcar HO Model

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

Ben--

The Jan. 1953 ORER gives the dimensions of the BAR 9800-10399 series
as 36' i.l., 8'6" i.w., 8'-1" i.h. Height is 12'-7" to top of
running board.

The CN 420000-series car modelled by the Westerfield kit is shown in
that same ORER as being 36' i.l., 8'-6" i.w., and 8' i.h. Height is
13'-3" to top of running board. But the difference in height at the
running board may be partly attributable to a different bolster
height being used by CN? Perhaps the car floor height was different
between the two roads' cars, in which case scratching the sides may
be the best way to approach building a model of these cars.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@...> wrote:

Steve Lucas wrote:
"I had a look at a Westerfield 4301 kit "CNR 1923 PDN+MODN" that I
have completed, ready to paint and letter. It has 11 carlines on
this Hutchins-roof car.

The 7/8 ends that I suggested cutting the extra rib off are the
Tichy
ones. I'm not sure of the end result here-maybe the height issue
will resolve itself after cutting out that extra rib?"

That's what I was thinking. We need to have someone confirm the
height
of the BAR cars vs that of the Westerfield model - I'm currently in
the
office and do not have an ORER CD with me to verify this.


Ben Hom


Taking Apart a Sunshine Model

golden1014
 

Gentlemen,

I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car)
that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the
ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone
have any foolproof ideas on how to debond the ACC?
Yes, I've used ACC de-bonder, and I've tried freezing
it, but nothing's worked. Thanks!

John



John Golden
Bloomington, IN

Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet
15 & 16 August, 2008
Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL

Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at
http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all


Six dome wine tank car, was More images from the P&WV site

eastwest40
 

First, thanks for the links to the P&WV. The six dome wine tank car made me remember a book. So I went down to the basement and dug it out. It is An American Railroad Portrait, by Daniel L. Frizzi Jr. It is a history of RRs in Pultney Twp. and Bellaire Ohio, published in 1993.
One chapter is about the Malpiedi Wine Distributing Co. in Bellaire, which until 1960 received wine in three and six compartment tank cars for bottling under their own labels. The cars came from the Sonoma and Napa Valleys. There is information about the shipping of this wine, and unloading it, as well as information about the cars. There are two pictures of three and six compartment tank cars being unloaded, but you can see little detail other than three and six domes.
The book also has many photos and information on the B&O, OR&W, PRR, WLE and streetcars. I hope this is of interest.
Chuck Seemann Aurora, Colorado


Sunshine Kits

golden1014
 

Gentlemen,

I have a Sunshine HO scale Wabash 40' gondola kit
(don't know the number off-hand) that I bought at
Naperville last year. I'd like to sell it to anyone
who's interested. I'll accept the first reasonable
offer OFF LINE at Golden1014@....

Thanks!
John



John Golden
Bloomington, IN

Co-Hosting the 2008 St. Louis RPM Meet
15 & 16 August, 2008
Gateway Convention Center, Collinsville, IL

Check out photos from the 2006 St. Louis RPM Meet at
http://www.pbase.com/golden1014/2006_st_louis_rpm_meet&page=all


Re: BAR/USATC 36' Single Sheathed Boxcar HO Model

benjaminfrank_hom <b.hom@...>
 

Steve Lucas wrote:
"I had a look at a Westerfield 4301 kit "CNR 1923 PDN+MODN" that I
have completed, ready to paint and letter. It has 11 carlines on
this Hutchins-roof car.

The 7/8 ends that I suggested cutting the extra rib off are the Tichy
ones. I'm not sure of the end result here-maybe the height issue
will resolve itself after cutting out that extra rib?"

That's what I was thinking. We need to have someone confirm the height
of the BAR cars vs that of the Westerfield model - I'm currently in the
office and do not have an ORER CD with me to verify this.


Ben Hom


New NE-5 caboose

rockroll50401 <cepropst@...>
 

The Intermountain/Centraila Car Shops plastic NE-5 model is now
available RTR. I was wondering what you guys thought of it? Does
anyone know if CCS will offer an undec kit?
Clark Propst


Re: Color Matching for Freight Cars

water.kresse@...
 

C&O 1920s cabeeses were apparently painted Metallic or Princes Brown, was this a gloss rating or a redness rating say over C&O Freight Car Brown of that era?

Al Kresse

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Mike Brock" <brockm@...>
Walter Clark writes:

"Mike, UP "Boxcar Red," which is actually named Metallic was (I
understand) more red and less brown than the SP paint of the same
name, at least by WWII. Back when Mr. Harriman combined UP, SP etc.,
into the group that was later broken up after his death the "Metallic"
was the same for SP and UP (and the others). Now, when did they UP
and SP start to drift apart on their definition of Metallic?"

I'll let SP gurus...Tony Thompson?...respond about SP. According to the late
Terry Metcalfe in his UP frt cars 1936-51, Metallic was replaced by
Synthetic Red in 1937 beginning with the B-50-22 and 23 classes. Terry
believed that Synthetic Red was a little bit redder than Metallic. Terry
suggested that Scalecoat Oxide Red was a good choice for either. I think
Polyscale Oxide Red is a good choice. It certainly gets you in the ball
park.

In 1941 you would see both paints in use. I doubt that you could tell which
one was on a car due to reasons that, if we don't now know, we'll never
know...

Mike Brock


Re: Texaco Tank Car Fleet in 1950

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Louie Hydrick wrote:
I have acquired over the years several negative or slides of a Georgia Railroad GP-7 on the Macon Branch with a Silver Texaco Tank Car in the consist. At least two different numbers occur; therefore, I would not remove all Silver Texaco Tank Cars from an early 1950's setting.
Interesting observation. Since we know that tank cars tended to soldier on without even reweigh stenciling, I suppose it's not odd that some of the silver paint jobs would survive for years after they were "discontinued" as new paint schemes.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: BAR/USATC 36' Single Sheathed Boxcar HO Model

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:12:46 -0500, Bruce Smith wrote

All three of my Tichy USRA cars have 5-5-5 ends so I was basing it
on that - I did not realize that a 7-8 end was available.
Tichy has 5 different boxcar ends. 4, 5-5-5 ends one 7-8 end.

http://www.tichytraingroup.com/index.php?
page=view_category.php&category=Freight+Car+Parts&subcategory=Ends&offset=0

brian Carlson


Re: BAR/USATC 36' Single Sheathed Boxcar HO Model

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

I had a look at a Westerfield 4301 kit "CNR 1923 PDN+MODN" that I have
completed, ready to paint and letter. It has 11 carlines on this
Hutchins-roof car.

The 7/8 ends that I suggested cutting the extra rib off are the Tichy
ones. I'm not sure of the end result here-maybe the height issue will
resolve itself after cutting out that extra rib?

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@...> wrote:

Steve Lucas wrote:
"Noticing Ben Hom's posting re. using a Westerfield "Fowler", certain
of the Westerfield 36' steel-frame car kits modelling a CN ex-GTR car
have a Hutchins roof."

Yes, but it's difficult to tell the number of carlines from the model
photo on the Westerfield website. You need a Hutchins roof with 11
carlines. Roy Higgins photo from the pay side of the RPI website:
http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/displayimage.php?i=21040#


Ben Hom


Re: BAR/USATC 36' Single Sheathed Boxcar HO Model

benjaminfrank_hom <b.hom@...>
 

Steve Lucas wrote:
"Noticing Ben Hom's posting re. using a Westerfield "Fowler", certain
of the Westerfield 36' steel-frame car kits modelling a CN ex-GTR car
have a Hutchins roof."

Yes, but it's difficult to tell the number of carlines from the model
photo on the Westerfield website. You need a Hutchins roof with 11
carlines. Roy Higgins photo from the pay side of the RPI website:
http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/displayimage.php?i=21040#


Ben Hom

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