Date   

Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Schuyler Larrabee
 

There is another way to do this: Make a thin "washer" which fits inside the "cup" of the bolster,
and in the center of that make a clearance hole for 2-56. Then put this on the screw shaft before
applying the truck.

SGL

Brian,

I would like to see the hole slightly larger. I, like many others who build resin kits, cut the
"boss' off the bottom of the
Kadee coupler box lid and use it as the swivel for the trucks. Right now I have to ream the hole
in your trucks to make
this arrangement work.

Not a big deal, but a slightly larger hole would make things a little easier.

Paul Lyons
Laguna Niguel, CA

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Leppert <b.leppert@... <mailto:b.leppert%40att.net> >
To: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 9:55 am
Subject: [STMFC] HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

I would like to get opinions from this group on what do you think is
the optimum HO truck bolster clearance hole for mounting the truck to
the car.

NMRA's RP-23 calls for a .089 diameter hole to clear #2 screws. Only a
few manufacturers follow this. Most have a hole larger than 1/8 inch.

It seems to me that the smaller hole would be best for resin kits. But
would it also be OK for plastic cars?

Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter.
Has anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works


Re: Propane

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Jun 15, 2008, at 7:15 PM, Jared Harper wrote:

Are there any 1943 era propane cars available in HO?

Jared, the only plastic HO scale model that's even close in
dimensions and proportion is the Athearn "chemical" tank car, and
aside from the crudeness that characterizes all of the early Athearn
"blue box" freight cars, it has a "dome" (actually, valve casing, as
LPG cars did not have domes) and dome platform/railings which are way
too large. Precision Scale has what appears to be an LPG car valve
casing in their catalog that might work as a replacement (their
#HO-31005), or you could use the valve casing from one of the Atlas
models if you could find an extra tank, and you could do away with
the platform and railings entirely, as many prototype cars didn't
have them. The other option would be Overland's brass import
OMI-3028, which represents a ca. 1936 AC&F car without platform and
railings as built for Shippers Car Line, Warren, Shell, Phillips,
etc. from the mid-1930s through the early '40s. I have numerous
photos of these cars if you can figure out who was the most likely
supplier (or lessor to the supplier) of LPG to the LPG depot on the
Alma branch.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Bill Vaughn
 

If it fits the 2/56 Im fine.
 
Bill Vaughn

--- On Mon, 6/16/08, Brian Leppert <b.leppert@...> wrote:

From: Brian Leppert <b.leppert@...>
Subject: [STMFC] HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole
To: STMFC@...
Date: Monday, June 16, 2008, 9:55 AM






I would like to get opinions from this group on what do you think is
the optimum HO truck bolster clearance hole for mounting the truck to
the car.

NMRA's RP-23 calls for a .089 diameter hole to clear #2 screws. Only a
few manufacturers follow this. Most have a hole larger than 1/8 inch.

It seems to me that the smaller hole would be best for resin kits. But
would it also be OK for plastic cars?

Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter.
Has anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


SJLX 301 PS-2 covered hopper questions

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

I just came across an issue of the June 1995 Model Railroading with a photo of St. Joseph Lead Company PS-2 covered hopper #301. According to the caption is was in P-S lot 8914A of January 1958. It is marked ST J L CO in the photo but SJLX was the proper reporting mark for the company.

It's listed in my ORER, but was this car really interchanged? (The lading was probably zinc oxide, based on the cars herald.)

Is this paint scheme real? (The incorrect reporting mark leads me to think this was just a builder's photo.)

Was this scheme ever produced in HO?

Thanks,
KL


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

FWIW, a 2-56 thread has a .0813 - .0854 major ("outside") diameter.

Kl

----- Original Message -----
From: timboconnor@...

I think a bolster that fits a pan-head 2-56 (e.g. Athearn) is just fine.
That is the size hole that I drill and tap for my resin cars.

----- Original Message -----


Re: 1929 CN single sheathed box car B end details

Rob M.
 

Thank You Steve, Just what I needed!

--- In STMFC@..., "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@...> wrote:

Rob--

I've upoaded a couple of photos to a new album, "CN Steel-frame
boxcars" in the photo section. They should appear shortly. The
colour photo has much of the B end visible.

The July, 1983 issue of Mainline Modeler had a very good article on
these cars, with photos, HO and O scale drawings. The only thing
that Bob Hundman missed in his drawing was the travelling sheave
attached to the brake lever connected to the brake cylinder. This
was part of a method CN used on these cars to increase the braking
power of a "stemwinder" handbrake. You'll see this to the left of
the right-hand truck in the colour photo.

Hope that this helps,

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., "Rob M." <rule292@> wrote:

Hello list,

I'm attempting to complete my Sylvan Scale Models 1929 CN single
sheathed boxcar (503500-513152) and I cannot seem to locate any
good
photos of the B end. The instructions have none. I have several
books
and none including the latest Steam Era Freight Cars reference
manual
shows the B end.

I've written to Sylvan to no avail and none of the back issue
magazine
suppliers seem to have the June 1994 RMJ with Stafford Swain's
article
on modeling them in HO.

Would anybody be able to help with with where I might locate a
photo,
etc?

Thanks,

Rob Mondichak
Allentown PA


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Malcolm H. Houck
 

Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter. Has
anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV

A smaller center hole, which can be reamed out to a larger size, if needed.
. .would be preferable. As it is now, the Tahoe trucks require the use of a 2
mm "Cheese head" screw to center the truck.

Mal Houck



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Dennis Storzek <destorzek@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Brian Leppert" <b.leppert@...> wrote:

I would like to get opinions from this group on what do you think is
the optimum HO truck bolster clearance hole for mounting the truck to
the car.

NMRA's RP-23 calls for a .089 diameter hole to clear #2 screws. Only a
few manufacturers follow this. Most have a hole larger than 1/8 inch.

It seems to me that the smaller hole would be best for resin kits. But
would it also be OK for plastic cars?

Brian,

Why would you want to pivot the truck around screw threads? What would
you tighten the screw against?


Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter.
Has anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.
The de facto standard has become clearance (you get to define the
clearance you think you can hold) on a nominal 1/8" boss. Your truck
will be a .0035" interference fit on an Accurail body bolster. Looking
at my notes from years ago, Athearn used a .137" clearance hole, and
WKW used .132". Accurail trucks gage pin at .130" - .131"

Anyone who needs a "kingpin bushing" to adapt the nominal 1/8" hole to
a #2 screw can easily cut the boss off the inside of a Kadee coupler
box; most modelers have about a million of these laying around. These
are .124" O.D. with a clearance hole for a #2 screw, and are about
.060" long when sliced off the mounting plate.

Just in case anyone is still hanging around from the NMRA standards
discussion or a few weeks ago, THIS is why if they can't see their way
clear to updating RP-23, they ought to just withdraw it. It only now
serves to cause confusion.


Dennis Storzek
Accurail, Inc.


Kaslo Shops N5c

Bill Lane
 

Hi All,

I have 2 Kaslo Shops urethane PRR N5c cabin car kits that could be for sale
or possible trade for other S Scale, preferably PRR. 1 is still sealed. The
other is opened, but all parts are present. No work has been started. It is
a 1 piece urethane body and separate roof. There are etched metal parts as
well. Trucks couplers and decals are not included. Some aspects of this kit
are better then the 1987 Overland brass run, like the correct roof end
profile, and a draft gear. An interior is included as well. Original cost
was about $70.00 each IIRC....

Please reply directly if you are interested.

Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:
http://www.lanestrains.com
Winner of the 2007 Josh Seltzer NASG Website Award
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!

Custom Train Parts Design
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
http://www.prrths.com
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE (for now) http://www.prslhs.com
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL



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Re: Propane

LOUIS WHITELEY <octoraro1@...>
 

The Atlas 11,000 gallon cars are, according to Mr. Hawkins, close to the 1947- and 1952-built cars. In 1943, he said, the tanks and frames were four feet longer and the tanks were smaller in diameter -- more like the Type 27 ACF tank cars.


Jared Harper <harper-brown@...> wrote:
Are there any 1943 era propane cars available in HO?
Jared Harper
Athens, GA

--- In STMFC@..., "Louis C. Whiteley" <octoraro1@...> wrote:

--- In STMFC@..., "Jared Harper" <harper-brown@> wrote:
I don't know about Kansas, but Gas Oil Products (GOPX)had a facility
in
Oxford (Chester County) Pennsylvania and in Miami, FL. Their first
four ICC105A300-W were built in 1943. Two more cars were built in
1944
and ten more in 1947. Their last two cars were built in 1952. The
fleet was back down to seven cars by 1953. The brand name on the
tank
cars was "Naturol".


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Brian Leppert wrote:
I would like to get opinions from this group on what do you think is the optimum HO truck bolster clearance hole for mounting the truck to the car.
Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter. Has anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.
It's fine with me, Brian, as it is. Like a couple of other responders, I actually like using a bushing on the truck screw, as it's performed well in my experience. (As my number of Athearn body bolsters shrinks, the use of the Athearn boss is decreasing accordingly!) But if you went to a smaller clearance hole, I'm sure it would still work.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...>
 

Hello Brian,

I use more of your trucks on re-modeled Athearn cabooses than on anything else, and I
generally leave the truck-mounting boss on their underframes. That means the larger
kingpin hole has worked out just fine. Where I've used your Dalmann trucks on resin cars, I've
bushed the kingpin screws with short pieces of styrene tube.

It wouldn't bother me, though, if you adopted the .089" hole recommended in the NMRA's
RP-23. It's not that big a deal to slice off Athearn's plastic boss (and I already have more of
your caboose trucks than I have re-modeled cabooses).

So long,

Andy


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Paul Lyons
 

Brian,



I would like to see the hole slightly larger. I, like many others who build resin kits, cut the "boss' off the bottom of the Kadee coupler box lid and use it as the swivel for the trucks. Right now I have to ream the hole in your trucks to make this arrangement work.

Not a big deal, but a slightly larger hole would make things a little easier.

Paul Lyons
Laguna Niguel, CA

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Leppert <b.leppert@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 9:55 am
Subject: [STMFC] HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole







I would like to get opinions from this group on what do you think is
the optimum HO truck bolster clearance hole for mounting the truck to
the car.

NMRA's RP-23 calls for a .089 diameter hole to clear #2 screws. Only a
few manufacturers follow this. Most have a hole larger than 1/8 inch.

It seems to me that the smaller hole would be best for resin kits. But
would it also be OK for plastic cars?

Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter.
Has anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Tim O'Connor
 

I think a bolster that fits a pan-head 2-56 (e.g. Athearn) is just fine.
That is the size hole that I drill and tap for my resin cars.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Brian Leppert" <b.leppert@...>
I would like to get opinions from this group on what do you think is
the optimum HO truck bolster clearance hole for mounting the truck to
the car.

NMRA's RP-23 calls for a .089 diameter hole to clear #2 screws. Only a
few manufacturers follow this. Most have a hole larger than 1/8 inch.

It seems to me that the smaller hole would be best for resin kits. But
would it also be OK for plastic cars?

Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter.
Has anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

Brian:
The 2-56 screws I use to hold your Dalman trucks are doing just fine, so I
am happy with your trucks as is. Any thought to doing an ASF A-3 Ride
control. Kto's is ok, but I'd like to be able to get them without wheelsets.

Brian Carlson


Re: HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

brianehni <behni@...>
 

I'm fine with RP-23; the closer it matches the outside diameter of #2 threads the better. I
am concerned, however with the diameter of the "socket" for the screw head. Used to be,
the binder head screws I used fit just about every truck, now I'm being forced to buy round
head screws to fit. Since I bought about 4 pounds worth of #2 X 3/16" binder head screws
from a surplus outlet, you can see I have a vested interest in using them.

The binder head style has a much lower profile than round head, making them especially
useful in Kadee installation.

Brian Ehni

--- In STMFC@..., "Brian Leppert" <b.leppert@...> wrote:

I would like to get opinions from this group on what do you think is
the optimum HO truck bolster clearance hole for mounting the truck to
the car.

NMRA's RP-23 calls for a .089 diameter hole to clear #2 screws. Only a
few manufacturers follow this. Most have a hole larger than 1/8 inch.

It seems to me that the smaller hole would be best for resin kits. But
would it also be OK for plastic cars?

Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter.
Has anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV


HO Truck Bolster Clearance Hole

Brian Leppert <b.leppert@...>
 

I would like to get opinions from this group on what do you think is
the optimum HO truck bolster clearance hole for mounting the truck to
the car.

NMRA's RP-23 calls for a .089 diameter hole to clear #2 screws. Only a
few manufacturers follow this. Most have a hole larger than 1/8 inch.

It seems to me that the smaller hole would be best for resin kits. But
would it also be OK for plastic cars?

Tahoe Model Works currently has a clearance hole about .120" diameter.
Has anyone been happy with it? I'm willing to change it.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV


Re: New England Data Question

Malcolm Laughlin <mlaughlinnyc@...>
 

There were no cars from New York for the Gull. I'm familiar with B&M and MEC equipment listings for 1930 through 1958. I'll give details if the topic appears on anappropriate list - like passenger-ops.

Malcolm Laughlin, Editor 617-489-4383
New England Rail Shipper Directories
19 Holden Road, Belmont, MA 02478


Re: NEW ENGLAND DATA-ANSWER (probably)

Malcolm Laughlin <mlaughlinnyc@...>
 

Re SGL's rant about North and South station.

This whole conversation is off topic and should be on the passenger-ops list. But that rant needs some response, so I'll be much briefer than it deserves.

There is a very good case for not having spent billions to build a N-S station connector and the reasons stated for doing it are mostly wrong. I'll give more detail if the topic appears on one of the other lists.


Malcolm Laughlin, Editor 617-489-4383
New England Rail Shipper Directories
19 Holden Road, Belmont, MA 02478


Re: Rail Shops carbon black car...

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

Bruce and Pierre,

Thanks for the advice. I'll give the "grab-iron hole drilling before
assembly" trick a try first. Has anyone ever built a hopper car kit
from flat castings and placed a length of wire in the corners behind
the ladder stiles to reinforce the joint? Just a thought. I'd have
to wonder if a home-made brass angle made from thin (.001" to.002")
brass sheet could also do the job.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@...> wrote:

I picked one of these up yesterday. Looks like a very nice kit,
but
has anyone built one and would like to comment on assembly
techniques?
The side/end corner assemblies seem to be more than a little tricky
to
put together.

Thanks in advance,

Steve Lucas.

121961 - 121980 of 195365