Date   

ARA 1932 Box Cars; an HO Scale Atlas model

Eric Hansmann
 

I just picked up a pair of these at the Train Station in Columbus,
Ohio. I am in a hotel with no tools, magnification or resource books
to compare prototype detail. Here's a just-out-of-the-box look at
these new models.

The car is painted and lettered for Clinchfield 5249. Upon first
look, the delicacy of the ladders and sill steps catches the eye,
and the lettering is sharp. The running board is thin and flat, not
wavy. The hand holds on the running board laterals are also separate
details, as are the end running board supports. The ends reveal a
bottom operated cut lever and a very fine retainer line and valve. A
Universal handbrake wheel is included. The right end grab is well
done with a bracket on the right side and the left attached to a
rib.

The underframe detail is okay. The center sill, bolsters, brake
detail and cross members seem to be a one piece plastic casting. The
floor seems to be another casting. The air line, brake rods and
piping are noticeable. There are no brake hangers and the brake
valve is rather non-descript. I am unsure of the style trucks Atlas
has used on these models. It is a cast sideframe style with a spring
plank, but I have no truck references at hand to compare.

The prototype resources I have are limited at this point, but I
found an image of an NKP car here:
http://www.steamfreightcars.com/gallery/boxauto/nkp13256main.html

There were a couple of model detail points that don't seem to mesh
with the one image reviewed. First, the tack boards are modeled as
two pieces of wood. This was noticeable early on as the model was
inspected. I had thought the tack boards were usually three pieces
of wood. The model tack boards almost seem toy-like as the boards
are quite wide. The part is also a bit thicker than the other
delicate details.

Another point is the shape of the end ribs. In the prototype images,
it seems like these ribs flatten a bit towards the car center. On
the model, the ribs are rounded across the ends. The NKP car has a
slightly different center gusset under the door. I'll have to wait
to page through the ARA 1932 Box Car book when I get home to compare
the Clinchfield model. I thought some prototypes had different
lengths of this center gusset.

I did not see any flash on the parts, but I did note a couple of
spots where a pass with a file or emery board will remove a slight
remnant of sprue. There also seems to be a rough edge on the center
of the running board on this model.

The model couplers are Accumates. I prefer the ProtoHO Accumates or
the Kadee #58s, so these will be changed out. An angle cock and air
hose will also be added. Some reweigh data and weathering and the
car is ready for the layout. The model also seems heavier than most
box cars. Part of the frame may be cast metal.

I paid $27 each for these cars. MRSP is $30. I look forward to
seeing these in a train with other box cars of varying heights.

Eric Hansmann
Morgantown, W. Va.


Re: Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <bwelch@...> wrote:

I know we usually want thin material but as a look to building two of
the new Westerfield ex-PRR R7 reefers as owned by FGE, I want to model
the "booties" that were added to the bottom of the steel bracing to
deal with their rusting out. I seems to me the best way to accurately
and neatly do this is layering decal material, and the thicker the
material, the fewer overlays I will need to apply. The thickest decal
material I know of is Champ's.

Bill,

Just spray any decal at hand with several coats of paint, letting the
paint dry between coats. The new water borne acrylics might be the
best choice, for flexibility.

What'cha goin' ta do about the rivets? Any rivets the decal covers
will look larger.

Dennis


Re: Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

Tim O'Connor
 

You're probably right about the hardware store variety of tape.
But foils come in different hardnesses too. I have some nice
'soft' copper and aluminum foils (not adhesive backed) that I
bought for forming gondola ends or other uses. These are much
thicker too. And there's always Bare Metal Foil... Wrinkles are
certainly a hazard, I agree.
Tim O'

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bruce Smith <smithbf@auburn.edu>

Tim,
I don't know that it is "neglected" - I use it all the time for patch
panels. But the reason that I did not suggest it for the application
Bill is talking about is that I do not think that will snug down
around the 3 dimensional details of the ends of the side braces, at
least not without getting wrinkles.


Re: Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

Bruce Smith
 

On Sep 18, 2008, at 3:01 PM, timboconnor@comcast.net wrote:

I think a much neglected and excellent material is adhesive backed aluminum
foil. I've only used the regular hardware store variety on models but I see from
this web site that there are different thicknesses and adhesives available. The
stuff I've used is great and the adhesive is very strong. Because it is aluminum
I have also fashioned 3-D items like small door stops.

1 mill thickness = .08" in HO scale

http://trade.made-in-china.com/manufacturers-suppliers/ Global-999o5qo999/Aluminum_Foil_Tape-1.html

Tim O'Connor
Tim,

I don't know that it is "neglected" - I use it all the time for patch panels. But the reason that I did not suggest it for the application Bill is talking about is that I do not think that will snug down around the 3 dimensional details of the ends of the side braces, at least not without getting wrinkles.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Re: Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

Tim O'Connor
 

I think a much neglected and excellent material is adhesive backed aluminum
foil. I've only used the regular hardware store variety on models but I see from
this web site that there are different thicknesses and adhesives available. The
stuff I've used is great and the adhesive is very strong. Because it is aluminum
I have also fashioned 3-D items like small door stops.

1 mill thickness = .08" in HO scale

http://trade.made-in-china.com/manufacturers-suppliers/Global-999o5qo999/Aluminum_Foil_Tape-1.html

Tim O'Connor

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "lnbill" <bwelch@uucf.org>
I know we usually want thin material but as a look to building two of
the new Westerfield ex-PRR R7 reefers as owned by FGE, I want to model
the "booties" that were added to the bottom of the steel bracing to
deal with their rusting out. I seems to me the best way to accurately
and neatly do this is layering decal material, and the thicker the
material, the fewer overlays I will need to apply. The thickest decal
material I know of is Champ's.

Does anyone have suggested for a source of the thicker material?

Bill Welch


Re: F&C site

SUVCWORR@...
 

In a message dated 9/18/2008 10:57:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lamontc@nakina.net writes:

On 18-Sep-08, at 6:19 AM, jerryglow2 wrote:
I think it might have something to do with the use of frames. On a PC
using Mozila/Firefox, I listed the source of the right side of the
page and appended the source URL to the base for their site. For
example
http://www.fandckits.com/HOFreightListByRoadWithDescriptions.html
to view HO by roadname.

Someone on a Mac try this and report here.
Sorry Jerry, it doesn't make any difference whether I navigate to
this page from the base URL or directly from the subURL you have
given. I just can't get any further at this point with either Safari
3.1.2 or Firefox 3.0. I can't test Internet Explorer on this Mac as
the newer Intel machines don't include it anymore (I keep meaning to
get a copy from one of my older Macs for this computer), although any
Mac version is now somewhat archaic.

You can download the latest verion of IE at
_http://www.microsoft.com/windows/internet-explorer/beta/worldwide-sites.aspx?
icid=ie8_asdf123_
(http://www.microsoft.com/windows/internet-explorer/beta/worldwide-sites.aspx?icid=ie8_asdf123)

Rich Orr






**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial
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Re: Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

Westerfield <westerfield@...>
 

Bill - I've found this process unnecessary. You need to cut triangles of .005" stryrene to fit between the framing. Then just make a relatively deep slice across each post at the matching angle. The eye is fooled (at least mine is) into thinking the bootie is continuous. See my X23 camp cars. - Al

----- Original Message -----
From: lnbill
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 12:55 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought


I know we usually want thin material but as a look to building two of
the new Westerfield ex-PRR R7 reefers as owned by FGE, I want to model
the "booties" that were added to the bottom of the steel bracing to
deal with their rusting out. I seems to me the best way to accurately
and neatly do this is layering decal material, and the thicker the
material, the fewer overlays I will need to apply. The thickest decal
material I know of is Champ's.

Does anyone have suggested for a source of the thicker material?

Bill Welch


Re: Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

Garth G. Groff <ggg9y@...>
 

Bill:

IIRC, Walthers decals were A LOT thicker. Now where you can find their stuff, I don't know.

Have you considered sticky-backed plastic film of some sort (maybe with the glue removed and AACed in place)? You can used to be able to find this sort of stuff in the computer departments at Staples, Office Depot, Frye's Electronics or maybe CompUSA (if you are lucky enough to be near one of their remaining stores). I recently needed some for a project and had to order direct from Epson. I got their small sticky labels, but the matrix around them might give you enough long pieces for a lot of X29 too. ;-)

Kind regards,


Garth G. Groff

lnbill wrote:

I know we usually want thin material but as a look to building two of the new Westerfield ex-PRR R7 reefers as owned by FGE, I want to model the "booties" that were added to the bottom of the steel bracing to deal with their rusting out. I seems to me the best way to accurately and neatly do this is layering decal material, and the thicker the material, the fewer overlays I will need to apply. The thickest decal material I know of is Champ's.

Does anyone have suggested for a source of the thicker material?

Bill Welch



Re: Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

Andy Carlson
 

SCOTCH TRANSPARENT TAPE
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

--- On Thu, 9/18/08, lnbill <bwelch@uucf.org> wrote:

From: lnbill <bwelch@uucf.org>
Subject: [STMFC] Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, September 18, 2008, 10:55 AM
I know we usually want thin material but as a look to
building two of
the new Westerfield ex-PRR R7 reefers as owned by FGE, I
want to model
the "booties" that were added to the bottom of
the steel bracing to
deal with their rusting out. I seems to me the best way to
accurately
and neatly do this is layering decal material, and the
thicker the
material, the fewer overlays I will need to apply. The
thickest decal
material I know of is Champ's.

Does anyone have suggested for a source of the thicker
material?

Bill Welch


Re: Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

brianehni <behni@...>
 

Try old Walthers decals! Those things won't even melt in Solvaset (Walther's own product).
8^)

Brian Ehni

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <bwelch@...> wrote:

I know we usually want thin material but as a look to building two of
the new Westerfield ex-PRR R7 reefers as owned by FGE, I want to model
the "booties" that were added to the bottom of the steel bracing to
deal with their rusting out. I seems to me the best way to accurately
and neatly do this is layering decal material, and the thicker the
material, the fewer overlays I will need to apply. The thickest decal
material I know of is Champ's.

Does anyone have suggested for a source of the thicker material?

Bill Welch


Hereford Cattle for O scale Stock cars

Andy Carlson
 

All of this talk of stock cars has me reminded of the need for stocking the cars with scale cattle. It can be expensive purchasing painted "cows" at the LHS, but i have something that might interest the O scalers out there......inexpensive Hereford figures.

I have purchased a large lot of LifeLike painted O scale Herefords. Though the same mold is reused for all 5 figures, the factory painting is varied to give 5 different appearances. The size is of a fully fattened-up ready for market hereford. I am selling these as a carded 5 pack for $2.00/package. that works out to $0.40/steer. Shipping will be added. These are O scale, and I can be contacted off-list (please) at <midcentury@sbcglobal.net> thanks,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

I also have 6 packs of market ready O scale hogs priced at $2.00/package also.


Thick decal material for protoyype patches sought

lnbill <bwelch@...>
 

I know we usually want thin material but as a look to building two of
the new Westerfield ex-PRR R7 reefers as owned by FGE, I want to model
the "booties" that were added to the bottom of the steel bracing to
deal with their rusting out. I seems to me the best way to accurately
and neatly do this is layering decal material, and the thicker the
material, the fewer overlays I will need to apply. The thickest decal
material I know of is Champ's.

Does anyone have suggested for a source of the thicker material?

Bill Welch


Re: F&C site

brianehni <behni@...>
 

This does not include the Macintosh OSX version of IE (5.2.3).

And now that this horse is dead, let's get back to STMFC!

Brian Ehni

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, timboconnor@... wrote:


If you check the archives I already explained that the F&C web site
uses proprietary Microsoft functions that only come with IE.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Larry Kline <lndkline@...>
The F&C web site has never worked correctly on my Mac.

I currently use OSX 10.5.4 and Firefox 2.0.0.4

I also tried Safari 3.1.2.

In both cases I can get to the links to the HO kits but the links
don't work.

I have mentioned this to Sharon Funaro several times and she didn't
seem very interested.

Larry Kline
Pittsburgh, PA


Re: Early train length laws

Jason Hill
 

Two 50-car trains will not fit in a 100-car siding... you're forgetting about the engine and caboose lengths. Two 50-car trains may fit in a 106-car sidings, or two 47-car trains may fit in a 100-car siding. Of course, that's if your talking about fouling lengths of the sidings which is what is marked in the timetables, not the additional signal viewing length required if searchlight signals are used.

Also I seem to remember that AZ had a 100-car law, so all the trains in AZ had to be no longer than 99-cars. Hmmm... interesting. I wonder if that law was updated before it was suspended in WWII and thrown out in 46.

Regards,
Jason Hill


Re: F&C site

Tim O'Connor
 

If you check the archives I already explained that the F&C web site
uses proprietary Microsoft functions that only come with IE.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Larry Kline <lndkline@verizon.net>
The F&C web site has never worked correctly on my Mac.

I currently use OSX 10.5.4 and Firefox 2.0.0.4

I also tried Safari 3.1.2.

In both cases I can get to the links to the HO kits but the links
don't work.

I have mentioned this to Sharon Funaro several times and she didn't
seem very interested.

Larry Kline
Pittsburgh, PA


Re: F&C site

Larry Kline
 

The F&C web site has never worked correctly on my Mac.

I currently use OSX 10.5.4 and Firefox 2.0.0.4

I also tried Safari 3.1.2.

In both cases I can get to the links to the HO kits but the links don't work.

I have mentioned this to Sharon Funaro several times and she didn't seem very interested.

Larry Kline
Pittsburgh, PA

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Ian Cranstone <lamontc@...> wrote:

Sorry Jerry, it doesn't make any difference whether I navigate to
this page from the base URL or directly from the subURL you have
given. I just can't get any further at this point with either Safari
3.1.2 or Firefox 3.0. I can't test Internet Explorer on this Mac as
the newer Intel machines don't include it anymore (I keep meaning to
get a copy from one of my older Macs for this computer), although any
Mac version is now somewhat archaic.


Re: F&C site

Ian Cranstone
 

On 18-Sep-08, at 6:19 AM, jerryglow2 wrote:
I think it might have something to do with the use of frames. On a PC
using Mozila/Firefox, I listed the source of the right side of the
page and appended the source URL to the base for their site. For
example
http://www.fandckits.com/HOFreightListByRoadWithDescriptions.html
to view HO by roadname.

Someone on a Mac try this and report here.
Sorry Jerry, it doesn't make any difference whether I navigate to this page from the base URL or directly from the subURL you have given. I just can't get any further at this point with either Safari 3.1.2 or Firefox 3.0. I can't test Internet Explorer on this Mac as the newer Intel machines don't include it anymore (I keep meaning to get a copy from one of my older Macs for this computer), although any Mac version is now somewhat archaic.

Ian Cranstone
Osgoode, Ontario, Canada
lamontc@nakina.net
http://freightcars.nakina.net
http://siberians.nakina.net


F&C site was Re: Heavy Duty Flat

jerryglow2
 

I think it might have something to do with the use of frames. On a PC
using Mozila/Firefox, I listed the source of the right side of the
page and appended the source URL to the base for their site. For
example
http://www.fandckits.com/HOFreightListByRoadWithDescriptions.html
to view HO by roadname.

Someone on a Mac try this and report here.

Jerry Glow


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Adam & Laura Eyring" <eyrings06@...>
wrote:

An alternative is to find a distributor site with supposedly the
entire
FandC catalog listed (many pictures are missing, though). Here are
a couple:
http://www.blueridgehobbies.com/Domestic/FunaroAndCamerlengo/FunaroAnd
Camerlengo-Main.asp

http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/u_fun.htm

AME


Re: Heavy Duty Flat

Adam & Laura Eyring <eyrings06@...>
 

An alternative is to find a distributor site with supposedly the entire FandC catalog listed (many pictures are missing, though). Here are a couple:
http://www.blueridgehobbies.com/Domestic/FunaroAndCamerlengo/FunaroAndCamerlengo-Main.asp

http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/u_fun.htm

AME

----- Original Message -----
From: "pierreoliver2003" <pierre.oliver@sympatico.ca>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 6:36 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Heavy Duty Flat


This is an old problem with their website. You can get to the home
page, but unless you're using Explorer, you can't get inside and look
at the individual models. It's been like this from day one.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Richard Dermody <ddermody@...> wrote:

Brian,

Can't explain what your problem is, but using Firefox 3 on a MacBook
Pro, the site comes up fine.

Dick

On Sep 16, 2008, at 11:52 PM, Brian Paul Ehni wrote:

What scale? F&C already does a resin kit for these!

BTW, F&C's website STILL refuses to work on my Mac, either in Safari
or
Firefox. That's just lame.
--
Thanks!

Brian Ehni


Re: Heavy Duty Flat

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

On my PC/Explorer I can expand the road name links to individual kit listings, and expand those to give details and a photo. If it works for me it may also work for him. It's difficult to diagnose a problem that doesn't happen to you. . .

KL

----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Smith

As we have been over multiple times in the past, the F&C home page
works fine, the problem is that when you try to view, say "HO Freight
Cars", you get a list of roadnames that then goes nowhere, or if you
select the kit number option, the same thing. Even Explorer cannot
seem to get beyond this on the Mac... and I'm pretty sure it doesn't
work on my PC laptop either. I've complained to Steve about this
flaw multiple times, but it has obviously not been fixed.

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