Date   

Re: The best lighting for kit-building.

Tim O'Connor
 

Denny

I don't know how "portable" you want, but I use swing-arm lights that
clamp to my work table. These are 200w Halogens with a low-hi mode
switch. I also have a magnifier light that takes a compact flourescent
(don't want to burn myself getting that close). Neither one cost much,
I think I got them both at Staples. The Halogens are quite tall, so the
top of my head doesn't get cooked...

Tim O'

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Denny Anspach <danspach@macnexus.org>

I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable
shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are finding
ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that older
eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to accommodate
to light level changes very well.

Denny


Re: The best lighting for kit-building.

Tim O'Connor
 

Ott lights are just full-spectrum bulbs. I have one too, a small flip-open
desk light. Such bulbs are easy to find nowadays for almost any ordinary
flourescent fixture. I prefer 'indoor' flourescents that skew the light more
towards the red end of the spectrum.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "jerryglow2" <jerryglow@comcast.net>
I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out
to dinner, then come back to build our own models at "work stations"
around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in a briefcase
and set it up for himself. I believe these are available commercially
and the bulb itself from Champ Decals.

Jerry Glow


Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?

armprem
 

BEN,My mother always told me to stay in my own backyard.Perhaps I should have listened.BTW....My Company Coal Reports Please.Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@worldnet.att.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:58 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?


Elden Gatwood asked:
"I do not know the details of what you are talking about, but sure
would. What, exactly, does this Des Plaines kit model? And you say
they are still available? Why have I not seen them on their website?"

Armand has unecessarily muddied the waters on this one. The Des
Plaines kit has absolutely NOTHING to do with the subject line. It's
a model of C&EI 64000-64499, pre-war AAR boxcars with Viking roofs.
The model is a Red Caboose (ex-IMWX) pre-war AAR boxcar with a new
roof casting. More details on the prototype can be found on this
table:
http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html


"And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC?"

This is the car in the original message in this thread - it's a group
of SP Class F-70-7 "look-alike" flats owned by the C&EI that Red
Caboose is offering on their HO scale F-70-7 models. Their website
has not been updated to include the F-70-7 in the HO scale kit
listings.


Ben Hom


------------------------------------

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Re: IM 12 panel box car ends (was youngstown 4/6/6 doors)

Garth G. Groff <ggg9y@...>
 

Matt and Steve,

IIRC, one design represents an SP prototype.

Kind regards,


Garth G. Groff

Matt Sugerman wrote:

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Haas &#92;(G2&#92;)" <Goatfisher2@...> wrote:


Note that Intermountain has cast two different ends for the 12 panel kit over
the years. Early models were a "4/3/thin" , later are a 4/3/0. Also, on some
series produced at the GN's St. Cloud shops, the top "rolling pin" on the
middle "3" panel is flat all the way across the bottom.


I noticed that Intermountain had two different ends also...Any idea why the change??? There were certainly more GN and SP&S cars that were built with the "skinny rib" EID end...

Also, the ribs on the version w/o the "skinny" rib on top do not appear to me to be as "crisp" as the one with the "skinny rib"...

Matt Sugerman,
Ft Worth, TX



Re: neat gondola load

Ron Smith <rpsmith@...>
 

Manfred,
That is common on loaded cars.

Ron Smith
Carman UPRR

----- Original Message -----
From: Manfred Lorenz
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 3:46 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: neat gondola load


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
>
> http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1137438/f991.jpg
>

Looks like the springs are bottoming out. Is that legal?

Manfred


IM 12 panel box car ends (was youngstown 4/6/6 doors)

Camas74
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Haas &#92;(G2&#92;)" <Goatfisher2@...> wrote:

Note that Intermountain has cast two different ends for the 12 panel kit over
the years. Early models were a "4/3/thin" , later are a 4/3/0. Also, on some
series produced at the GN's St. Cloud shops, the top "rolling pin" on the
middle "3" panel is flat all the way across the bottom.


I noticed that Intermountain had two different ends also...Any idea why the change??? There
were certainly more GN and SP&S cars that were built with the "skinny rib" EID end...

Also, the ribs on the version w/o the "skinny" rib on top do not appear to me to be as "crisp"
as the one with the "skinny rib"...

Matt Sugerman,
Ft Worth, TX


Re: The best lighting for kit-building.

Manfred Lorenz
 

Ott-Lights are, I believe, fluorescent lamps. These have the
advantage of spreading the emitted light over a larger surface. Which
is good for the eyes too. For enlargement needing deteil work with a
loupe or so I use a flexible lamp with a 60 Watt bulb that I can pull
down to the work. There are large loupes with lights included which I
have but have not put up yet.

To simulate this effect outdoors why not put up a natural (not white)
canvas sail across the porch. That would tone down the brightness of
the sun and distribute it more evenly. Also a good protection against
sunburn, methinks.

Manfred

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "jerryglow2" <jerryglow@...> wrote:

I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out
to dinner, then come back to build our own models at "work
stations"
around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in a
briefcase
and set it up for himself. I believe these are available
commercially
and the bulb itself from Champ Decals.

Jerry Glow

&#92;--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Denny Anspach <danspach@> wrote:

Continuing a pleasant custom, I have been building resin kits at
our
summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la Bill
Darnaby),
but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventually
caused
me to retire to a cozy corner.

A continuing problem that increasingly plagues my modeling is
poor
lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blinding
shadows
and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks into
maddening and quite tedious marathons.

I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable
shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are
finding
ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that
older
eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to
accommodate
to light level changes very well.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA


Re: The best lighting for kit-building.

Raymond Young
 

Jerry,

For my aging eyes (79), an Ott light is not enough.  I have found that a 100 watt quartz light on a parallelogram extension works much better.  It also allows me to extend the light to cover the floor to find those tiny parts that escape attachment.  Heat is generated, but the light should be turned off when not needed.

A large desk-mounted magnifying glass supplements my Opti-Visor for close-up work.

Virgil Young
Amarillo, TX

----- Original Message ----
From: jerryglow2 <jerryglow@comcast.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:17:18 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: The best lighting for kit-building.


I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out
to dinner, then come back to build our own models at "work stations"
around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in a briefcase
and set it up for himself. I believe these are available commercially
and the bulb itself from Champ Decals.

Jerry Glow

&#92;--- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, Denny Anspach <danspach@.. .> wrote:

Continuing a pleasant custom, I have been building resin kits at
our
summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la Bill
Darnaby),
but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventually
caused
me to retire to a cozy corner.

A continuing problem that increasingly plagues my modeling is
poor
lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blinding
shadows
and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks into
maddening and quite tedious marathons.

I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable
shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are
finding
ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that
older
eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to
accommodate
to light level changes very well.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: The best lighting for kit-building.

jerryglow2
 

I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out
to dinner, then come back to build our own models at "work stations"
around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in a briefcase
and set it up for himself. I believe these are available commercially
and the bulb itself from Champ Decals.

Jerry Glow

&#92;--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Denny Anspach <danspach@...> wrote:

Continuing a pleasant custom, I have been building resin kits at
our
summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la Bill
Darnaby),
but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventually
caused
me to retire to a cozy corner.

A continuing problem that increasingly plagues my modeling is
poor
lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blinding
shadows
and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks into
maddening and quite tedious marathons.

I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable
shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are
finding
ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that
older
eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to
accommodate
to light level changes very well.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA


The best lighting for kit-building.

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Continuing a pleasant custom, I have been building resin kits at our summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la Bill Darnaby), but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventually caused me to retire to a cozy corner.

A continuing problem that increasingly plagues my modeling is poor lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blinding shadows and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks into maddening and quite tedious marathons.

I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are finding ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that older eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to accommodate to light level changes very well.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA


Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?

jerryglow2
 

Oops I see the Erie and Soo are the only ones listed one their site.
It was a 10' IH AAR '37 car with Viking roof for roads using them.
You can of course add the Viking roof which they sell separately. The
flatcar in discussion is Red Caboose's SP F-70 which was also good
for (and offered) C&EI but none still available.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Gatwood, Elden J SAD "
<elden.j.gatwood@...> wrote:

Guys;
I do not know the details of what you are talking about, but sure
would.

What, exactly, does this Des Plaines kit model? And you say they
are still
available? Why have I not seen them on their website?
And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC?

Thanks!
Elden Gatwood


Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?

benjaminfrank_hom <b.hom@...>
 

Elden Gatwood asked:
"I do not know the details of what you are talking about, but sure
would. What, exactly, does this Des Plaines kit model? And you say
they are still available? Why have I not seen them on their website?"

Armand has unecessarily muddied the waters on this one. The Des
Plaines kit has absolutely NOTHING to do with the subject line. It's
a model of C&EI 64000-64499, pre-war AAR boxcars with Viking roofs.
The model is a Red Caboose (ex-IMWX) pre-war AAR boxcar with a new
roof casting. More details on the prototype can be found on this
table:
http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html


"And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC?"

This is the car in the original message in this thread - it's a group
of SP Class F-70-7 "look-alike" flats owned by the C&EI that Red
Caboose is offering on their HO scale F-70-7 models. Their website
has not been updated to include the F-70-7 in the HO scale kit
listings.


Ben Hom


Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Guys;



I do not know the details of what you are talking about, but sure would.



What, exactly, does this Des Plaines kit model? And you say they are still
available? Why have I not seen them on their website?



And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC?



Thanks!



Elden Gatwood





________________________________

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
jerryglow2
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:11 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?



Thanks, Armand. I have one I think I purchased when they first came
out. I think they do still have them as I've been advising my friend a
former narrow guager about steam era freight cars and Des Plains shop.
He was able to stop there earlier this summer and saw them there.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "Armand
Premo" <armprem@...> wrote:

Jerry,Des Plaines Hobbies released a CE&I boxcar Kit #143 with a
Viking
roof.They still may have some.Armand Premo


Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?

jerryglow2
 

Thanks, Armand. I have one I think I purchased when they first came
out. I think they do still have them as I've been advising my friend a
former narrow guager about steam era freight cars and Des Plains shop.
He was able to stop there earlier this summer and saw them there.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Armand Premo" <armprem@...> wrote:

Jerry,Des Plaines Hobbies released a CE&I boxcar Kit #143 with a
Viking
roof.They still may have some.Armand Premo


Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?

jerryglow2
 

Thanks Ed. I couldn't even find the SP or any of the 53" flatcars until
you gave me the kit numbers and did a search.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Ed Hawkins <hawk0621@...> wrote:

Red Caboose eventually produced the C&EI model, their catalogue no.
RR-32140 and RR-32141. They are presently shown on RC's web site as
being sold.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Re: neat gondola load

Manfred Lorenz
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1137438/f991.jpg
Looks like the springs are bottoming out. Is that legal?

Manfred


Re: youngstown 4/6/6 doors

Steve Haas
 

Brian,



Don't know if you bought them for the GN 12 panel cars or not (only you can
truly answer that <grin>), but that's what I bought 25 pair for!





Data I've collected over the years indicates the 4/6/6 doors were used on the
following GN series of 12 panel cars:



10900 - 11374 built '48 - some had 7 panel Pullman Standard doors



11375 - 11874 built '48 - some had 5 panel Pullman Standard doors



18500 - 19499 built '49



19500 - 20499 built '51



Note that Intermountain has cast two different ends for the 12 panel kit over
the years. Early models were a "4/3/thin" , later are a 4/3/0. Also, on some
series produced at the GN's St. Cloud shops, the top "rolling pin" on the
middle "3" panel is flat all the way across the bottom.



Best regards,



Steve Haas

Sammamish, WA



Brian J Carlson writes:



"I have two pair of Dan Hall 4/6/6 (counting from the top down) Youngstown

doors. I am not sure why I bought these. I think I planned to use a pair

for a GN 12 panel model. Does anyone know if the GN 12 panel cars used

these doors."


youngstown 4/6/6 doors

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

I have two pair of Dan Hall 4/6/6 (counting from the top down) Youngstown
doors. I am not sure why I bought these. I think I planned to use a pair
for a GN 12 panel model. Does anyone know if the GN 12 panel cars used
these doors.

Brian J Carlson P.E.
Cheektowaga NY


Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?

armprem
 

Brian,Shows you how much I know about the C&IE.Quess I'll check my ORER before I offer to help.Blush,Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian J Carlson" <brian@bluemoon.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?


Armand: F-70-7 is a Flatcar.
Brian J Carlson P.E.
Cheektowaga NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Armand Premo" <armprem@surfglobal.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?


Jerry,Des Plaines Hobbies released a CE&I boxcar Kit #143 with a
Viking
roof.They still may have some.Armand Premo
----- Original Message -----


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



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Checked by AVG.
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Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

Armand: F-70-7 is a Flatcar.
Brian J Carlson P.E.
Cheektowaga NY

----- Original Message -----
From: "Armand Premo" <armprem@surfglobal.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?


Jerry,Des Plaines Hobbies released a CE&I boxcar Kit #143 with a
Viking
roof.They still may have some.Armand Premo
----- Original Message -----

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