At the suggestion of Dick Karnes, I've uploaded all of my kit instructions
on their respective web page (go to the bottom of each page or each product
to see the appropriate links). All files are in Adobe PDF format. Some are
quite large .. in the 8-10 mb range, so folks with a dial-up connection may
have problems or, at least, have to wait a while for the file(s) to
download.



Jim King

Smoky Mountain Model Works, Inc.

www.smokymountainmodelworks.com

Hello folks,

Is there any chance anyone has any solid information on the Huntingdon
and Broad Top hoppers? I know they had some 8 panel channel sided
hoppers of 100,000lb capacity, with, I believe Andrews trucks. I have a
few photos of them taken after the railroad closed, but does anyone
know some dimensions of them, and their origin?

I haven't found any models that are a good representation of them, so I
think I'll have to resort to scratchbuilding.

Thanks in advance!

Ed

Joel Norman wrote:

Gentleman:Was wondering if there is anyone in this group modeling or
has modeling data on the pre B&O BR&P Railroad?Im in the process of
building a new HO layout based on the BR&P(as if the B&O didnt take
over in 1931)line from Ashford Jct to Rochester(and the rail ferry to
Canada).........based somewhat on the ideas of the V&O.

Joel,

You can start with two actions.

Join the B&O Yahoo Group ask your questions and search the archives for
"BR&P" and/or the "Buffalo Division". There are several BR&P experts in
this group.

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/Baltimore_and_Ohio/

Visit the B&ORRHS web site and visit the Company Store as there are many
reprints of BR&P items prior to its acquisition by the B&O. Search the
categories with "BR&P".

http://www.borhs.org/

Regards,

Bob Witt

Gentleman:Was wondering if there is anyone in this group modeling or
has modeling data on the pre B&O BR&P Railroad?Im in the process of
building a new HO layout based on the BR&P(as if the B&O didnt take
over in 1931)line from Ashford Jct to Rochester(and the rail ferry to
Canada).........based somewhat on the ideas of the V&O.
Hope you can help...
Joel Norman A&LO Rly

I use a swing-arm fixture with a 13w compact flourescent lamp screwed
into it. The compact flourescent "bulb" gives off a lot less heat
than a standard light bulb.

So far, at the age of 48, I'm lucky enough not to need anything
brighter, but higher-wattage compact flourescents are readily
available.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, timboconnor@... wrote:

Denny

I don't know how "portable" you want, but I use swing-arm lights

that

clamp to my work table. These are 200w Halogens with a low-hi mode
switch. I also have a magnifier light that takes a compact

flourescent

(don't want to burn myself getting that close). Neither one cost

much,

I think I got them both at Staples. The Halogens are quite tall, so

the

top of my head doesn't get cooked...

Tim O'

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Denny Anspach <danspach@...>

I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable
shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are

finding

ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that

older

eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to

accommodate

to light level changes very well.

Denny

Denny, I also have one of the Ott-Lite, the one on the swing arm, it works great. I also have on my work bench two regular swing
arm lamp fixtures with "DayLight" brand curly bulbs that screw into a regular socket. Daylight is a brand from England that emits
a wonderful light similar to the Ott-Lite brand. They are available at Hobby Lobby, in the sewing section. While at Hobby Lobby,
in the same sewing section, look for Mag-Eyes - a magnifying device that is similar to an Opti-visior, but does not have the
"visor" effect. You can look up and over the Mag-Eyes to look at plans, the tool box, etc.

If you are still at Okoboji, come on over and I will show you what I used, down in my dark basement where there is no natural
lighting.

Doug Harding
www.iowacentralrr.org

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Raymond Young <rayvirg@...> wrote:

A large desk-mounted magnifying glass supplements my Opti-Visor for

close-up work.


Without my Optivisor I would have to give up model railroading.
Jared Harper
Athens, GA

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Manfred Lorenz" <germanfred55@...> wrote:

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@> wrote:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1137438/f991.jpg

Looks like the springs are bottoming out. Is that legal?

Manfred

But they're not… I can still see space between the coils.

The October 1970 ORER shows WM 55262 (if I read that correctly) has a
capacity of 154,000 lbs, which is what I think I read on the car side.
UTLX 48994 has a capacity of 100,000 lbs, and a tare weight of 47,000
and change. Even if the tankcar is fully loaded, it is well within the
capacity of the gon. So what's the problem?

Dennis

Thanks, Ben. Is that C&EI box still available; I do not see it on Des
Plaines' website.



Thanks!



Elden Gatwood



________________________________

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
benjaminfrank_hom
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:58 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?



Elden Gatwood asked:
"I do not know the details of what you are talking about, but sure
would. What, exactly, does this Des Plaines kit model? And you say
they are still available? Why have I not seen them on their website?"

Armand has unecessarily muddied the waters on this one. The Des
Plaines kit has absolutely NOTHING to do with the subject line. It's
a model of C&EI 64000-64499, pre-war AAR boxcars with Viking roofs.
The model is a Red Caboose (ex-IMWX) pre-war AAR boxcar with a new
roof casting. More details on the prototype can be found on this
table:
http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html
<http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html>

"And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC?"

This is the car in the original message in this thread - it's a group
of SP Class F-70-7 "look-alike" flats owned by the C&EI that Red
Caboose is offering on their HO scale F-70-7 models. Their website
has not been updated to include the F-70-7 in the HO scale kit
listings.

Ben Hom

Manfred Lorenz wrote:

Looks like the springs are bottoming out. Is that legal?

I'm sure it's legal but not a good idea for the sake of the car structure. The engineering term for that is, springs have "gone solid," which neatly explains why they are no longer springs when in that condition.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history

I recall back to the days of these car's first releases. The GN (and SP&S) cars were the first ones released. The ends supplied with these cars were attached to the feeder sprues with gates on the "riveted" edge. The SP release followed with a new end- one that had the different top rib treatment. This end is noted in that the gates came in from the bottom end sill, and the edges were free of any gates. I noticed that later runs of the GN cars seemed to use either version end. At the time I thought the first version (GN) had better rib shape but poorer edge treatment. The later end had improved rib termination, but the rib itself was not as good as the earlier end.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

Denny

I don't know how "portable" you want, but I use swing-arm lights that
clamp to my work table. These are 200w Halogens with a low-hi mode
switch. I also have a magnifier light that takes a compact flourescent
(don't want to burn myself getting that close). Neither one cost much,
I think I got them both at Staples. The Halogens are quite tall, so the
top of my head doesn't get cooked...

Tim O'

Ott lights are just full-spectrum bulbs. I have one too, a small flip-open
desk light. Such bulbs are easy to find nowadays for almost any ordinary
flourescent fixture. I prefer 'indoor' flourescents that skew the light more
towards the red end of the spectrum.

BEN,My mother always told me to stay in my own backyard.Perhaps I should have listened.BTW....My Company Coal Reports Please.Armand Premo

Matt and Steve,

IIRC, one design represents an SP prototype.

Kind regards,


Garth G. Groff

Matt Sugerman wrote:

Manfred,
That is common on loaded cars.

Ron Smith
Carman UPRR

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Haas &#92;(G2&#92;)" <Goatfisher2@...> wrote:

Note that Intermountain has cast two different ends for the 12 panel kit over
the years. Early models were a "4/3/thin" , later are a 4/3/0. Also, on some
series produced at the GN's St. Cloud shops, the top "rolling pin" on the
middle "3" panel is flat all the way across the bottom.

I noticed that Intermountain had two different ends also...Any idea why the change??? There
were certainly more GN and SP&S cars that were built with the "skinny rib" EID end...

Also, the ribs on the version w/o the "skinny" rib on top do not appear to me to be as "crisp"
as the one with the "skinny rib"...

Matt Sugerman,
Ft Worth, TX

Ott-Lights are, I believe, fluorescent lamps. These have the
advantage of spreading the emitted light over a larger surface. Which
is good for the eyes too. For enlargement needing deteil work with a
loupe or so I use a flexible lamp with a 60 Watt bulb that I can pull
down to the work. There are large loupes with lights included which I
have but have not put up yet.

To simulate this effect outdoors why not put up a natural (not white)
canvas sail across the porch. That would tone down the brightness of
the sun and distribute it more evenly. Also a good protection against
sunburn, methinks.

Manfred

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "jerryglow2" <jerryglow@...> wrote:

I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out
to dinner, then come back to build our own models at "work

stations"

around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in a

briefcase

and set it up for himself. I believe these are available

commercially

and the bulb itself from Champ Decals.

Jerry Glow

&#92;--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Denny Anspach <danspach@> wrote:

Continuing a pleasant custom, I have been building resin kits at

our

summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la Bill

Darnaby),

but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventually

caused

me to retire to a cozy corner.

A continuing problem that increasingly plagues my modeling is

poor

lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blinding

shadows

and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks into
maddening and quite tedious marathons.

I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable
shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are

finding

ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that

older

eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to

accommodate

to light level changes very well.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA

Jerry,

For my aging eyes (79), an Ott light is not enough.  I have found that a 100 watt quartz light on a parallelogram extension works much better.  It also allows me to extend the light to cover the floor to find those tiny parts that escape attachment.  Heat is generated, but the light should be turned off when not needed.

A large desk-mounted magnifying glass supplements my Opti-Visor for close-up work.

Virgil Young
Amarillo, TX

I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out
to dinner, then come back to build our own models at "work stations"
around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in a briefcase
and set it up for himself. I believe these are available commercially
and the bulb itself from Champ Decals.

Jerry Glow

&#92;--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Denny Anspach <danspach@...> wrote:

Continuing a pleasant custom, I have been building resin kits at

our

summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la Bill

Darnaby),

but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventually

caused

me to retire to a cozy corner.

A continuing problem that increasingly plagues my modeling is

poor

lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blinding

shadows

and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks into
maddening and quite tedious marathons.

I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable
shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are

finding

ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that

older

eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to

accommodate

to light level changes very well.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA