Re: The best lighting for kit-building.
Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
I use a swing-arm fixture with a 13w compact flourescent lamp screwed
into it. The compact flourescent "bulb" gives off a lot less heat than a standard light bulb. So far, at the age of 48, I'm lucky enough not to need anything brighter, but higher-wattage compact flourescents are readily available. Steve Lucas. --- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, timboconnor@... wrote: that clamp to my work table. These are 200w Halogens with a low-hi modeflourescent (don't want to burn myself getting that close). Neither one costmuch, I think I got them both at Staples. The Halogens are quite tall, sothe top of my head doesn't get cooked...finding olderideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that accommodateeyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to to light level changes very well.
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Re: The best lighting for kit-building.
Douglas Harding <dharding@...>
Denny, I also have one of the Ott-Lite, the one on the swing arm, it works great. I also have on my work bench two regular swing
arm lamp fixtures with "DayLight" brand curly bulbs that screw into a regular socket. Daylight is a brand from England that emits a wonderful light similar to the Ott-Lite brand. They are available at Hobby Lobby, in the sewing section. While at Hobby Lobby, in the same sewing section, look for Mag-Eyes - a magnifying device that is similar to an Opti-visior, but does not have the "visor" effect. You can look up and over the Mag-Eyes to look at plans, the tool box, etc. If you are still at Okoboji, come on over and I will show you what I used, down in my dark basement where there is no natural lighting. Doug Harding www.iowacentralrr.org
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Re: The best lighting for kit-building.
Jared Harper <harper-brown@...>
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Raymond Young <rayvirg@...> wrote:
A large desk-mounted magnifying glass supplements my Opti-Visor forclose-up work. Without my Optivisor I would have to give up model railroading. Jared Harper Athens, GA
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Re: neat gondola load
Dennis Storzek
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Manfred Lorenz" <germanfred55@...> wrote:
But they're not… I can still see space between the coils. The October 1970 ORER shows WM 55262 (if I read that correctly) has a capacity of 154,000 lbs, which is what I think I read on the car side. UTLX 48994 has a capacity of 100,000 lbs, and a tare weight of 47,000 and change. Even if the tankcar is fully loaded, it is well within the capacity of the gon. So what's the problem? Dennis
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Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?
Gatwood, Elden J SAD
Thanks, Ben. Is that C&EI box still available; I do not see it on Des
Plaines' website. Thanks! Elden Gatwood ________________________________ From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of benjaminfrank_hom Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:58 AM To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Subject: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI? Elden Gatwood asked: "I do not know the details of what you are talking about, but sure would. What, exactly, does this Des Plaines kit model? And you say they are still available? Why have I not seen them on their website?" Armand has unecessarily muddied the waters on this one. The Des Plaines kit has absolutely NOTHING to do with the subject line. It's a model of C&EI 64000-64499, pre-war AAR boxcars with Viking roofs. The model is a Red Caboose (ex-IMWX) pre-war AAR boxcar with a new roof casting. More details on the prototype can be found on this table: http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html <http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html> "And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC?" This is the car in the original message in this thread - it's a group of SP Class F-70-7 "look-alike" flats owned by the C&EI that Red Caboose is offering on their HO scale F-70-7 models. Their website has not been updated to include the F-70-7 in the HO scale kit listings. Ben Hom
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Re: neat gondola load
Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Manfred Lorenz wrote:
Looks like the springs are bottoming out. Is that legal?I'm sure it's legal but not a good idea for the sake of the car structure. The engineering term for that is, springs have "gone solid," which neatly explains why they are no longer springs when in that condition. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com Publishers of books on railroad history
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Re: IM 12 panel box car ends (was youngstown 4/6/6 doors)
Andy Carlson
I recall back to the days of these car's first releases. The GN (and SP&S) cars were the first ones released. The ends supplied with these cars were attached to the feeder sprues with gates on the "riveted" edge. The SP release followed with a new end- one that had the different top rib treatment. This end is noted in that the gates came in from the bottom end sill, and the edges were free of any gates. I noticed that later runs of the GN cars seemed to use either version end. At the time I thought the first version (GN) had better rib shape but poorer edge treatment. The later end had improved rib termination, but the rib itself was not as good as the earlier end.
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-Andy Carlson Ojai CA
--- On Mon, 9/22/08, Matt Sugerman <camas74@yahoo.com> wrote:
I noticed that Intermountain had two different ends
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Re: The best lighting for kit-building.
Denny
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I don't know how "portable" you want, but I use swing-arm lights that clamp to my work table. These are 200w Halogens with a low-hi mode switch. I also have a magnifier light that takes a compact flourescent (don't want to burn myself getting that close). Neither one cost much, I think I got them both at Staples. The Halogens are quite tall, so the top of my head doesn't get cooked... Tim O'
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Denny Anspach <danspach@macnexus.org> I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable
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Re: The best lighting for kit-building.
Ott lights are just full-spectrum bulbs. I have one too, a small flip-open
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desk light. Such bulbs are easy to find nowadays for almost any ordinary flourescent fixture. I prefer 'indoor' flourescents that skew the light more towards the red end of the spectrum.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "jerryglow2" <jerryglow@comcast.net> I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out
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Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?
armprem
BEN,My mother always told me to stay in my own backyard.Perhaps I should have listened.BTW....My Company Coal Reports Please.Armand Premo
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----- Original Message -----
From: "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@worldnet.att.net> To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:58 AM Subject: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI? Elden Gatwood asked: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Internal Virus Database is out of date. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.136 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1675 - Release Date: 9/16/2008 7:06 PM
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Re: IM 12 panel box car ends (was youngstown 4/6/6 doors)
Garth G. Groff <ggg9y@...>
Matt and Steve,
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IIRC, one design represents an SP prototype. Kind regards, Garth G. Groff Matt Sugerman wrote:
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Haas \(G2\)" <Goatfisher2@...> wrote:
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Re: neat gondola load
Ron Smith <rpsmith@...>
Manfred,
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That is common on loaded cars. Ron Smith Carman UPRR
----- Original Message -----
From: Manfred Lorenz To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 3:46 AM Subject: [STMFC] Re: neat gondola load --- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote: > > http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1137438/f991.jpg > Looks like the springs are bottoming out. Is that legal? Manfred
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IM 12 panel box car ends (was youngstown 4/6/6 doors)
Camas74
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Haas \(G2\)" <Goatfisher2@...> wrote:
Note that Intermountain has cast two different ends for the 12 panel kit over I noticed that Intermountain had two different ends also...Any idea why the change??? There were certainly more GN and SP&S cars that were built with the "skinny rib" EID end... Also, the ribs on the version w/o the "skinny" rib on top do not appear to me to be as "crisp" as the one with the "skinny rib"... Matt Sugerman, Ft Worth, TX
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Re: The best lighting for kit-building.
Manfred Lorenz
Ott-Lights are, I believe, fluorescent lamps. These have the
advantage of spreading the emitted light over a larger surface. Which is good for the eyes too. For enlargement needing deteil work with a loupe or so I use a flexible lamp with a 60 Watt bulb that I can pull down to the work. There are large loupes with lights included which I have but have not put up yet. To simulate this effect outdoors why not put up a natural (not white) canvas sail across the porch. That would tone down the brightness of the sun and distribute it more evenly. Also a good protection against sunburn, methinks. Manfred --- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "jerryglow2" <jerryglow@...> wrote: stations" around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in abriefcase and set it up for himself. I believe these are availablecommercially and the bulb itself from Champ Decals.
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Re: The best lighting for kit-building.
Raymond Young
Jerry,
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For my aging eyes (79), an Ott light is not enough. I have found that a 100 watt quartz light on a parallelogram extension works much better. It also allows me to extend the light to cover the floor to find those tiny parts that escape attachment. Heat is generated, but the light should be turned off when not needed. A large desk-mounted magnifying glass supplements my Opti-Visor for close-up work. Virgil Young Amarillo, TX
----- Original Message ----
From: jerryglow2 <jerryglow@comcast.net> To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:17:18 AM Subject: [STMFC] Re: The best lighting for kit-building. I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out to dinner, then come back to build our own models at "work stations" around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in a briefcase and set it up for himself. I believe these are available commercially and the bulb itself from Champ Decals. Jerry Glow \--- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, Denny Anspach <danspach@.. .> wrote: our summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la BillDarnaby), but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventuallycaused me to retire to a cozy corner.poor lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blindingshadows and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks intofinding ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind thatolder eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable toaccommodate to light level changes very well. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: The best lighting for kit-building.
jerryglow2
I used to host a small group of modelers to meet at my shop, go out
to dinner, then come back to build our own models at "work stations" around the room. One of them brought his own Ott light in a briefcase and set it up for himself. I believe these are available commercially and the bulb itself from Champ Decals. Jerry Glow \--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Denny Anspach <danspach@...> wrote: our summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la BillDarnaby), but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventuallycaused me to retire to a cozy corner.poor lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blindingshadows and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks intofinding ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind thatolder eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable toaccommodate to light level changes very well.
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The best lighting for kit-building.
Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
Continuing a pleasant custom, I have been building resin kits at our summer home. I used to build them on the porch (a la Bill Darnaby), but the afternoon zephyrs prevailing in this country eventually caused me to retire to a cozy corner.
A continuing problem that increasingly plagues my modeling is poor lighting- lighting that no matter how bright creates blinding shadows and stark contrasts that commonly stretches 5 minute tasks into maddening and quite tedious marathons. I ask the good kit builders on this list what ideal portable shadowless lighting, or lighting arrangements that they are finding ideal for their kit building work stations? Keep in mind that older eyes require higher light levels, and they are unable to accommodate to light level changes very well. Denny Denny S. Anspach MD Okoboji, IA
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Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?
jerryglow2
Oops I see the Erie and Soo are the only ones listed one their site.
It was a 10' IH AAR '37 car with Viking roof for roads using them. You can of course add the Viking roof which they sell separately. The flatcar in discussion is Red Caboose's SP F-70 which was also good for (and offered) C&EI but none still available. Jerry Glow --- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Gatwood, Elden J SAD " <elden.j.gatwood@...> wrote: would. are still available? Why have I not seen them on their website? And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC? Elden Gatwood
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Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?
benjaminfrank_hom <b.hom@...>
Elden Gatwood asked:
"I do not know the details of what you are talking about, but sure would. What, exactly, does this Des Plaines kit model? And you say they are still available? Why have I not seen them on their website?" Armand has unecessarily muddied the waters on this one. The Des Plaines kit has absolutely NOTHING to do with the subject line. It's a model of C&EI 64000-64499, pre-war AAR boxcars with Viking roofs. The model is a Red Caboose (ex-IMWX) pre-war AAR boxcar with a new roof casting. More details on the prototype can be found on this table: http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html "And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC?" This is the car in the original message in this thread - it's a group of SP Class F-70-7 "look-alike" flats owned by the C&EI that Red Caboose is offering on their HO scale F-70-7 models. Their website has not been updated to include the F-70-7 in the HO scale kit listings. Ben Hom
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Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI?
Gatwood, Elden J SAD
Guys;
I do not know the details of what you are talking about, but sure would. What, exactly, does this Des Plaines kit model? And you say they are still available? Why have I not seen them on their website? And what was this earlier C&EI kit from RC? Thanks! Elden Gatwood ________________________________ From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jerryglow2 Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:11 AM To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Subject: [STMFC] Re: F-70-7-- possible stand-in for C&EI? Thanks, Armand. I have one I think I purchased when they first came out. I think they do still have them as I've been advising my friend a former narrow guager about steam era freight cars and Des Plains shop. He was able to stop there earlier this summer and saw them there. Jerry Glow --- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "Armand Premo" <armprem@...> wrote: Viking roof.They still may have some.Armand Premo
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