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Re: is this another new 70 ton truck?
Brian Leppert <b.leppert@...>
I think it is. However, ore cars typically have five foot wheel base trucks, instead of the normal 5'-8" for a 70 ton truck. 70 ton features on a short w.b. gives the proportions of a truck on steroids.
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InterMountain's new truck under their new 2 bay covered hopper represents a 70 ton Barber S-2 with spring plank. Brian Leppert Carson City, NV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim O'Connor" <timboconnor@...> To: <STMFC@...> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 5:00 PM Subject: [STMFC] is this another new 70 ton truck? http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/932-40501
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Re: 36' Fowler/Dominion cars and "almosts"...
Michael Aufderheide
--- On Tue, 11/4/08, destron@... <destron@...> wrote:
<CIL 2000-3600 (or were these the Monon SU cars?)The SU cars were different cars, the 8000 series, retired by the end of 1940. The 36 ft howe truss cars were in three series due to rebuilding:Originally 2000-2899 blt Haskell & Barker 1912-14 (gone by 1942) 3149-3339 rebuilt from 2000 series 1927 (new ends) (gone by 1942)3400-3600 rebuilt from 2000 series 1927 (no reason why on diagram) (gone by 1949) Some were also converted to stock cars: 6200-6249.The boxcars are similar to the NC&StL 15100-16099 series (XM-17?)and there has been speculation that the Monon piggybacked an order with them. The Monon cars are 1" shorter at 8'-0" and have a cu ft of 2482 built in 1912-14. I don't know what the NC&StL build dates are for comparison. Regards,Mike Aufderheide [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: 36' Fowler/Dominion cars and "almosts"...
Dennis Storzek <destorzek@...>
--- In STMFC@..., destron@... wrote:
sure a number are actually DS cars, but can't tell that from the ORER info...)Correct. Now, the others I'm not certain of, but tend to assume so based on DSS&A 11067-11569DS wood underframe cars. The South Shore had no single sheathed cars whatsoever. SOO 28312+28456, 106600-107908, 108056-10990828300-28498 (even) 30 ton DS wood automobile cars built by AC&F in 1910 106600-107908 (even) 30 ton DS boxcars built in 1905 - 06 for Wisconsin Central and renumbered; can't find the builder without the original WC numbers. 108056-109908 (even) 30 ton DS boxcar built in 1908 - 09 for WC. Dennis
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Re: 36' Fowler/Dominion cars and "almosts"...
rockroll50401 <cepropst@...>
M&StL 26000-26400These were DS cars with TR underframes and at least 3 different ends. There's a photo of one in an RP Cyc. Clark Propst
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
ed_mines
--- In STMFC@..., "lnerj72" <lnerj72@...> asked:
what would be the best glue to useI liked to use white glue when I first started building wood models 30 years ago but I found that some model railroad paints (Floquil) wouldn't cover the glue joints. Prior to assembly I now seal wood with diluted Scalecoat sanding sealer (without stiring in the pigment from the bottom) or diluted Ambroid cement (MEK as thinner). Usually I sprayed both sides of the wood with either of the coating solutions; in the beginning the wood will soak it up like a sponge soaks up water. If you only coat one side it is apt to curl up. I like to use Ambroid cement for assembly. Some of the newer ones mentioned might be as good or even better. Don't spray car assembled with Ambroid cement with either of the coatings mentioned above. The MEK will dissolve the glue joints. Sealing the wood is important. I've seen wood sides shrink enought so gaps between pieces can easily be seen. I had sides warp from decal setting solution too. In additions to the sealents mentioned above I successfully used a waterborne sealent sold by Floquil, shellac, and a polyurethane wood sealer - all for sealing wood. Don't mix them though. MEK redissolved the polyurethane sealent ruining some wood parts. Ed
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Re: 36' Fowler/Dominion cars and "almosts"...
Mark P.
Frank,
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Here's a photo of Erie 86554 to add to your collection. <http://replica.palni.edu/u?/winona,38> This was taken on the Winona [IN] Railroad in northern Indiana. Mark Plank
----- Original Message -----<big snip> Erie 86000-86999, 93000-93999*-- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
Ray Meyer
Whatever you use, sealing the wood before painting is absolutely necessary
for long term survival, especially in humid climates. Shellac is my choice. My experience with sanding sealers is that the car in the end looks like a plastic or resin car; my use of wood is to avoid that specifically. [I'm of the "only wood looks like wood" persuasion. Yeah, I know many others differ.] -- Atty Raymond G. Meyer 110 E. Main St Port Washington, WI 53074 262-284-5566 rgmeyer2@...
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36' Fowler/Dominion cars and "almosts"...
destron@...
I've been poking around trying to compile a list of 36' "Fowler" cars...
I've gotten to a stage now where I've got a short list of definitely Fowler/Dominion cars, and a longer list of possibles (of which I'm sure a number are actually DS cars, but can't tell that from the ORER info...) For the cars I'm sure are Fowlers or almost-those, the list is (* marks those I've got photos for): CN, various series CP, various series Algoma Central 3001-3020, 3051-3080 BAR 9000-9699*, 9800-10399 DW&P 400800-401549 Erie 86000-86999, 93000-93999* Fc. Mexicano 8100-8199* GTW 417500-420149*, 440300-440627 NC&StL 16100-16599*, 13500-15099, 15100-16099 NdeM 65700-65800* New York, Susquehanna & Western 1500-1563* Piedmont & Northern 12000-12074* Quebec Central 3100-3198* Quebec Rly, Light & Power 1016-1029, 1100-1109, 1110-1119 Roberval-Saguenay 536-537 SOO 12800-14298* Sydney & Louisburg 102-115 TEM 80000-80098, 80100-80198, 80200-80398, 80400-80498* TH&B 3000-3132, 4000-4301* WM 28002-28003 (ex-Erie) Now, the others I'm not certain of, but tend to assume so based on evidence of other Fowler series with the road (or with the parent/close relative road): BAR 8100-8599, 8700-8799 CNJ 14000-14499 (drawing seems to suggest it) CV 70731-71730, 71800-72049 DSS&A 11067-11569 NC&StL 24500-24599 SOO 28312+28456, 106600-107908, 108056-109908 M&StL 26000-26400 WAB 78000-78199 (read about these, are they 36' or 40'?) And these are the "just guessing" that might well be DS cars or other unrelated things: Ala., Tenn. & Northern 15001-15150 Ann Arbor 69000-69286 B&M 12138-12258, 12301-12392, 64682-68247, 68317, 68333-68390 Belt Rly of Chicago 802-850, 852-862 C&EI 37002-37748, 635-699 Canton RR 400-420 CIL 2000-3600 (or were these the Monon SU cars?) Clinchfield 3300-3833 Delaware & Northern 501-551 Detroit & Mackinac 2751 DMIR 5342-5390 FW&D 4400-5299 GM&O 43000-43299 (or were these SU cars?) Kentucky & Tennessee 304-306 L&A 1851-1859 L&N 4000-5049, 5350-5549, 5050-5199, 5300-5349, 5550-5999, 6001-6999, 7000-7182, 7300-7499, 9000-9799 Lake Superior & Ishpeming 2026 Manistique & Lake Superior 50-52 Manufacturers Junction 1040-1049 Minnesota, Dakota & Western 3004-3005 Mississippi Central 4000-4109 MKTT 170000-170228 MN&S 2501-2510 Montana, Wyoming & Southern 326-569 NdeM 44000-44016, 13503-13515 NdeT 2010-3595 NKP 97000-97999 NYO&W 9201-9907 Reading 2000-3999, 14500-14999, 15700-15999, 17500-18479, 18500-18699 SN 2101-2105, 2249 SPdeM 8304-8820 Tremont & Gulf 476, 666, 674 Wyandotte Terminal 38, 80, 82, 84 Frank Valoczy Vancouver, BC
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
Schuyler Larrabee
I have Ambroid kits I built 40 years ago. I used Ambroid's cement withoutWell, different strokes for different folks. I detest Ambroid cement. SGL
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Re: Pere Marquette freight cars in N scale
destron@...
You'll need 1 - 1 1/2 foot extensions added to the top of the "standard"Which "standard" car? Frank Valoczy Vancouver, BC
Frank Valoczy Vancouver, BC
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
Schuyler Larrabee
I had a few cars that curled up from decaling water like that. Not much fun trying to reassemble a
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car on the fly while also trying to make sure the decals are in the right place and not getting folded over. The worst one was an Olympia Beer reefer kit (manufacturer long since forgotten). The decals were bedsheets across the sides, so it took a LOT of water to a) get them off the backer sheets, and b) float them into position on the sides. My decal-application techniques have improves a little (!) since then, but I later learned (on the next car, for instance) that a couple coats of sanding sealer (model aircraft "dope" works really well) along with some sanding to get a smooth surface seals the wood sufficiently that you don't have nearly so much chance of having the car sides curl up on you. Just be sure to use the back of an X-acto knife to clear out the scribing, or it gets full of dust which the next coat of sealer makes a pretty permanent part of the siding. Don't get too aggressive with the knife and rescribe everything too deeply - you can split the wood (and how does he know that, I wonder?). Just clean out the grooves. If it does split, glue some paper to the back side, and seal that, too. I used 400 grit paper at the end of the process, starting with 220 or 320. This also has a tendency to make the scribing a bit more subtle, which is a good thing, and pretty much eliminates raised grain issues which can really make a car look like s***. Seal both sides, before you start assembling anything. Roof and floor, too, but you probably can skip the end blocks. Oh, right, the original question was about glue: Elmer's yellow carpenter glue. Sets up fairly quickly and is VERY strong. Better, IMHO, than white. SGL
From: Earl T. Hackett
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Ed Hawkins - Please Contact Me off-list
paulbizier <pa.bizier@...>
Ed:
Need help re: Amarillo Rail Museum ART reefer... Paul
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
Cyril Durrenberger
I have not had that problem if dry transfers are used and the car is built with white glue. I have had some on the layout for 35 years and they still look pretty much like they did years ago. Some are LaBelle kits and others are scratch built from wood, before styrene was available. I have used decals on some of the cars, but have not had much problem except in one case. Paint the car well before applying to seal it and then use a minimal amount of water. Canopy glue is great too.
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Cyril Durrenberger
--- On Mon, 11/3/08, Earl T. Hackett <hacketet@...> wrote:
From: Earl T. Hackett <hacketet@...> Subject: [STMFC] Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits To: STMFC@... Date: Monday, November 3, 2008, 4:38 PM The oldest wooden models I have on the layout are about 30 years old. I built them with plain old Elmer's White Glue. The stuff holds up well over the years. However, if you apply decals to an assembled model, it will come apart. White glue is water soluble. The water also swells the wood and that doesn't help things either. To avoid this problem paint and decal the sides or other components before assembly. --- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, "lnerj72" <lnerj72@... > wrote: Hi Everyone, A quick question, I am about to start on some wooden freight car kits from various manufacturers (Pacific Pike, Ambroid, Juneco, etc) and I was wondering what would be the best glue to use for the wooden portions? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
Spen Kellogg <spenkellogg@...>
lnerj72 wrote:
Iain, I have had very good luck using a canopy glue from Pacer. I don't have any handy so I am not sure of the name, but it starts with Formula and then a number. It's very similar to white glue. That is a trick I learned from Scotty Mason. Regards, Spen Kellogg .
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
Earl T. Hackett <hacketet@...>
The oldest wooden models I have on the layout are about 30 years old.
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I built them with plain old Elmer's White Glue. The stuff holds up well over the years. However, if you apply decals to an assembled model, it will come apart. White glue is water soluble. The water also swells the wood and that doesn't help things either. To avoid this problem paint and decal the sides or other components before assembly.
--- In STMFC@..., "lnerj72" <lnerj72@...> wrote:
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
Ray Meyer
BTW< her's this to that's take on Weldbond:
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http://www.thistothat.com/glue/weldbond.shtml
On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 5:06 PM, Ray Meyer <rgmeyer2@...> wrote:
My best results have been with plain old white glue. CA is a bad choice --
Atty Raymond G. Meyer 110 E. Main St Port Washington, WI 53074 262-284-5566 rgmeyer2@...
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
Ray Meyer
My best results have been with plain old white glue. CA is a bad choice for
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wood. If you ever have a question, this is a good site: http://www.thistothat.com/
On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 4:43 PM, lnerj72 <lnerj72@...> wrote:
Hi Everyone, --
Atty Raymond G. Meyer 110 E. Main St Port Washington, WI 53074 262-284-5566 rgmeyer2@...
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Wooden Craftsman Kits
lnerj72 <lnerj72@...>
Hi Everyone,
A quick question, I am about to start on some wooden freight car kits from various manufacturers (Pacific Pike, Ambroid, Juneco, etc) and I was wondering what would be the best glue to use for the wooden portions? Weld-bond, yellow carpenters glue, regular white glue, CA? I am thinking about using Weld-Bond as it seems to be the crazy glue of white glues. Cheers Iain
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Re: Pere Marquette freight cars in N scale
water.kresse@...
You'll need 1 - 1 1/2 foot extensions added to the top of the "standard" car.
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Al Kresse
-------------- Original message --------------
From: destron@... First off a question: they aren't in the Revenue Freight cars book, but do Atlas' 70-ton ore cars in Pere Marquette lettering (#39990A, road #CF1512; #39991A, road #CF1523) have a prototype? Beyond that, I've started poking through what's available in N scale to determine what could be used as basis models for modelling PM freight cars... here's the list I've made so far. If anyone has tips for others, or better solutions to the ones I've listed, I'd love to hear it! 13000-13999 14000-14499 - Microtrains twin hopper: The picture on the website is small, but looks right at a quick inspection. 16000-16099 - Red Caboose USRA flatcar: overall a good basis I think, only would have to rearrange the stake pockets and the brake staff to make an accurate model. 17000-17249 17250-17649 - Intermountain USRA drop-bottom gon: I think this will need a little bit of tweaking, but the general appearance looks right. I picked one of these kits up today, so will be attempting to build one of these cars first. 20000-20024 20025-20049 20050-20149 - Deluxe Innovations ACF 2-Bay covered hopper: The pictures on the website are small, but overall look right enough to use as a basis for these PM cars 72200-72399 - Intermountain 50' AAR double-door boxcar: this would I think be a standin at best, judging from the photos of the model (which are here, too, almost uselessly small on the website, so it may be better than I think, or conversely worse than I think). 80000-81999 - Atlas USRA double-sheath car: pretty much as-is, I think, apart from detailing. 82000-83499 - Red Caboose X29 with Dreadnaught ends and Youngstown doors: the handbrake and roof are wrong, but this is probably fixable. The dimensions of the X29 and the 82000srs cars are pretty close (in the April 1942 ORER), and appearance-wise, it looks like this model could serve (with modification) to represent the first PM all-steel boxcars. 83500-83649 83650-83799 83800-83999 84100-84399 - Intermountain 40' 1937 AAR boxcar. With IM's interchangeable parts, the differences in ends and doors shouldn't be an issue, I don't think, if they have a 4/5 W end and both 7-panel Superior and 5-7-5 Youngstown doors. 85000-85999 86000-87499 - Atlas USRA double-sheath car: for the single-door versions the Atlas car could serve as a starting point for a kitbash. The Vulcan and Hutchins ends would of course have to be scratchbuilt, and steel-door versions would need the doors changed... even the door-and-a-half versions could be done, I think, with the Atlas model as a basis. I'm planning to do several of these over the next while (as I can get my hands on the models!) That's it for now, still need to look at available steel gondola models. If there's one or two available that could serve as basis models, I think with a bit of effort a good representation of the PM's freight car fleet can be made in 1:160. :) Frank Valoczy Vancouver, BC Frank Valoczy Vancouver, BC
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Re: Wooden Craftsman Kits
SUVCWORR@...
I have Ambroid kits I built 40 years ago. I used Ambroid's cement without
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incident. Apply several coats of sanding sealer to the model before painting (sand between each coat) then there is no issue with water or decal solvent being absorbed by the wood. It works best if the sealer is applied after the basic car is built but before the detail parts are added. Rich Orr
In a message dated 11/3/2008 7:38:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
hacketet@... writes: The oldest wooden models I have on the layout are about 30 years old. I built them with plain old Elmer's White Glue. The stuff holds up well over the years. However, if you apply decals to an assembled model, it will come apart. White glue is water soluble. The water also swells the wood and that doesn't help things either. To avoid this problem paint and decal the sides or other components before assembly. --- In STMFC@..., "lnerj72" <lnerj72@...> wrote:
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