Date   

Re: Kadee 158s

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Clark Propst wrote:
If we have trouble uncoupling the 158s why on earth would you use 153s that put the cars closer together?
Exactly. I'd like to hear from anyone who conducts operating sessions, if they like the idea of closer coupling. And how they manage uncoupling.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


tank car decals

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Gentlemen:
I recently did a search to see if anyone makes the "Flying A" emblem for Associated Oil Company, later also used by Tidewater Associated, in HO scale. I did not find any, although Microscale makes an O scale decal for filling stations. I will proceed to make artwork for all the tank car lettering, and arrange production, which is mostly for my own needs, but if there are others out there interested in such decals, let me know. I will be happy to share them at cost.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: UTLX decals

Steve and Barb Hile
 

Clark,

The UTLX decals you saw are from a set that I sell in addition to my Rock Island sets. I can send you a list if you contact me off list at

shile@...

I moved these photos from the files section to the photos section the other day.

Regards,
Steve Hile

----- Original Message -----
From: Clark Propst
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:01 PM
Subject: [STMFC] UTLX decals





I saw a couple photos in the photo section of tank cars with UTLX decals. One was an Atlas 11K car. I have a 11K brass car I need decals for, who makes the decals on the car in the photo?
Sorry if I've missed something, thanks...
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


UTLX decals

Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
 

I saw a couple photos in the photo section of tank cars with UTLX decals. One was an Atlas 11K car. I have a 11K brass car I need decals for, who makes the decals on the car in the photo?
Sorry if I've missed something, thanks...
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Kadee 158s

rockroll50401 <cepropst@...>
 

If we have trouble uncoupling the 158s why on earth would you use 153s that put the cars closer together? I wish I'd bought the 'whisker' spring style couple with the oversized head, but 100 pair into this I'm not changing again.

We did try the McDs coffee stirs yesterday. I need to perfect my shear point then I think they'll be ok. The one I made gets stuck in one a knuckle sometimes. I'm always the engineer on these early trial runs using a friend to try and figure out my switch list and uncouple cars with couplers he won't use. We'll see if he comes back for another go round?
Clark Propst

--- In STMFC@..., "Schuyler Larrabee" <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:

Denny, thanks for pointing out the 153s. I believe the 158s arrived first and I had not noticed the
153s which I agree will be more appropriate in most cases.

Given the right location (such as the Shake-n-Take PRR X45 from last year) I'll prefer Kadee 78s, so
I can have a scale-width draft gear as well as the "scale" head.

SGL

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Denny Anspach
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 11:32 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Kadee 158s



I simply do not understand the wisdom of replacing standard sized
Kadee couplers with scale #158s. The effect of the 158's scale-sized
head is completely lost by its hanging out on a long shank (like a
giraffe), and while the large standard #5 Kadee head effectively hides
the gaping open mouth of the huge coupler box.

Moreover, the combination of the small scale head and the long #158
shank now allows ugly fish mouth face of this huge coupler box to be
fully exposed.

If close coupling operational problems are disturbing, leave the large
couplers in place.

If close coupling does not bother you, and you do not want to install
scale-sized coupler boxes, then use Kadee short shank #153s (the
closeness of the coupler head at least tries to hide the embarrassing
large coupler box just behind).

What do I do? I use the Accumate Protos as my standard; but I also
use a lot of the #153s. Both are excellent in their own ways.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
710 Coronado Blvd.
Sacramento CA 95864








E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.12640
http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
<http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/>






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.12650
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/


HO Freight cars, parts, decals and trucks for sale

Rob Adams
 

Due to a switch of scales to O, I have a bunch of HO freight car kits, trucks, parts and decals available. Included are many resin and craftsman kits, some built-up cars and a bunch of odds and ends.

Please contact me directly at steamera@... if you would like me to send you a copy of the list. I will be away part of the day tomorrow visiting family for Father's Day, but will respond as promptly as possible. Thanks for your interest.

Kind regards,

Rob Adams
Wellman, IA


Re: Sergent Engineering couplers (was Kadee 158s)

Jared Harper <harper-brown@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Mike Brock" <brockm@...> wrote:

Jon Miller says:



Just to stir the pot (VBG) how do you uncouple passenger cars with
Sergents? I know, this is a freight car list so we don't care!
But, note that we include head end cars in the STMFC.
We do?
Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: Sergent Engineering couplers (was Kadee 158s)

Jared Harper <harper-brown@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Jon Miller" <atsf@...> wrote:

Just to stir the pot (VBG) how do you uncouple passenger cars with
Sergents? I know, this is a freight car list so we don't care!
Jon,
On my Santa Fe Alma branch layout I will only have one passenger car so I don't care. If you use Sergents on passenger cars you will just need to experiment with uncoupling from a different angle.
Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: Sergent Engineering couplers (was Kadee 158s)

Jared Harper <harper-brown@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., William Keene <wakeene@...> wrote:

Gene,

I have found that operations... local switching and way freights...
move at a slower pace than switching with other coupler systems. And
you are correct that the operations must be within easy reach of the
aisle. This means that the train is assembled for the evening's
operations on the on-stage portion of the layout and then backed off-
stage to the staging track complete.

My layout is a switching layout based upon the end of an eastern
Kansas ATSF branch line. Service is a single train down the line and
return to the junction daily except Sunday. With such an operation
there is no "hot shot" to worry about. My train is a mixed train
powered by a motorcar. All consists are less than 1,000 tons.

Hope that the above provides some answers.
I am modeling a one train a day Santa Fe branchline on a shelf. I will be using Sergents. My operations will be the same as Bill's.
Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: UP 40' auto box

sparachuk <sparachuk@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Richard, do you have or do you know of any photos of these cars?
I have never seen one. Terry's book does not include them since
they were originally built long before 1936.

Tim O'Connor
Tim: In the very unlikely event that Richard doesn't have a photo, try this link. http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/displayimage.php?i=32813#

Stephan Parachuk
Toronto


Re: Sergent Engineering couplers (was Kadee 158s)

Dennis Storzek <destorzek@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., octoraro1@... wrote:

The question is whether there is remote uncoupling possibility with the Sergent couplers.  I can't imagine how.  As I understand the principle, a tiny metal ball keeps the knuckle closed.  The magnet held above the coupler raises the ball out of its seat so the knuckle will open.
Sergent used to sell "remote uncoupler", it was a U shaped casting that held a little rare earth magnet. This was to be placed on top of the coupler while the cars were still in reach, and kept the locking ball raised. The car to be spotted was then pushed to where it needed to go, and the uncoupler came back with the car doing the pushing, where it was retrieved and went back in the switchman's pocket. For some reason I don't see it on the Sergent web site anymore.

Dennis


Re: UP 40' auto box

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Jun 20, 2009, at 2:38 PM, Tim O'Connor wrote:

Richard, do you have or do you know of any photos of these cars?
I have never seen one. Terry's book does not include them since
they were originally built long before 1936.




Yes, I have all the materials for Terry's second book, which include
a number of photos of the A-50-7 class after rebuilding. As soon as
I recover from the Santa Fe Ft-/Ga- class book, which is supposed to
be out next month, I intend to begin working on the second UP book.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: UP 40' auto box

mcindoefalls
 

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Richard, do you have or do you know of any photos of these cars?
The photo I've seen is by Dwight Smith. It appears on page 112 of "New England Diesels" by Dave Albert and George Melvin, and on page 63 of Volume VI of Nimke's Connecticut River Railroads series. The image is larger and clearer in New England Diesels.

Walt Lankenau


Re: UP 40' auto box

mcindoefalls
 

--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:

UP 471441 was an A-50-7 class car, originally wood sheathed but
rebuilt ca. 1940 into a steel sheathed car. The steel rebuilds kept
the original Bettendorf underframes and 5-5-5 corrugated ends with
two additional corrugations at the top. Roofs were panel steel,
doors were 12' double corrugated, trucks were AAR with spring planks,
running boards were wood, hand brakes were Ajax or Universal, and
couplers were bottom-operated Type E. A kitbash is possible based on
a model of a 10'6" IH AAR standard box car (e.g., Intermountain), but
double doors would have to added and the underframe replaced.
Thank you, Richard. Of course, I'd haved to choose something exotic. In the photo I've seen, it's coupled to a welded SAL B-10 box which is taller than the UP car, so I'd guess the IH to be a bit less than 10'-6". Sounds like an interesting kitbash. But for now, I'll use the Trix car as a stand-in.

Walt Lankenau


Re: Sergent couplers

pierreoliver2003 <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Bob,
A friend of mine who uses the Sergent couplers for his HO models(Trevor Marshall) and also reviewed the product for RMC, strongly urges one to buy the couplers assembled.
I think the quote was, "Life's to short".
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., "gn3397" <heninger@...> wrote:

Hello all,
I am considering using the Sergent couplers and have a question. In Tim Warris' video and post, he states that he occasionally has trouble coupling the cars, sometimes having to use quite a bit of force to couple cars. However, he also states that he purchased the assembled couplers. For those of you who use these couplers, have you noticed the same problems? Do you use the assembled couplers, or do you assemble them yourself? If so, what assembly "tweaks" would you recommend to improve the operation of these couplers?

Thanks for your time.

Sincerely,
Bob Heninger
Iowa City, IA


Re: Sergent Engineering couplers

Tim O'Connor
 

Louis

Since the magnet must be above the coupler, you'd have to
get pretty clever to implement a remote uncoupler. Delayed
uncoupling might be a more useful technique.

Tim O'Connor

The question is whether there is remote uncoupling possibility
with the Sergent couplers.


Re: Sergent Engineering couplers (was Kadee 158s)

octoraro1@...
 

The question is whether there is remote uncoupling possibility with the Sergent couplers.  I can't imagine how.  As I understand the principle, a tiny metal ball keeps the knuckle closed.  The magnet held above the coupler raises the ball out of its seat so the knuckle will open.

--- On Sat, 6/20/09, Gene Green <bierglaeser@...> wrote:


From: Gene Green <bierglaeser@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Sergent Engineering couplers (was Kadee 158s)
To: STMFC@...
Date: Saturday, June 20, 2009, 9:55 AM








Comments, please.

There are, apparently, at least two who have converted to Sergent Engineering couplers. Clearly the Sergent couplers are somewhat more expensive but appearance should be quite a bit better than even the so-called "scale" couplers from other manufacturers.

Is scale appearance worth the extra cost or are there other benefits as well?

From what has been said on this forum and the information on the Sergent Engineering web site (much improved since the last time I visited), it seems there would be an increase in the realism of the brakeman's duties on a model railroad. Since, on model railroads, the local takes far too long to make its run when compared to the time it takes the "hot shot" to get from one end of the layout to the other, would the Sergent couplers speed up or slow down the local's progress?

With Sergent couplers all uncoupling and most coupling would have to take place within fairly easy reach from the aisle. Is there a remote uncoupling possibility with Sergents?

Gene Green


Re: UP 40' auto box

Tim O'Connor
 

Richard, do you have or do you know of any photos of these cars?
I have never seen one. Terry's book does not include them since
they were originally built long before 1936.

Tim O'Connor

P.S. I would love to have a book dedicated to rebuilt box cars.
It's a very interesting subject!

UP 471441 was an A-50-7 class car, originally wood sheathed but
rebuilt ca. 1940 into a steel sheathed car. The steel rebuilds kept
the original Bettendorf underframes and 5-5-5 corrugated ends with
two additional corrugations at the top. Roofs were panel steel,
doors were 12' double corrugated, trucks were AAR with spring planks,
running boards were wood, hand brakes were Ajax or Universal, and
couplers were bottom-operated Type E. A kitbash is possible based on
a model of a 10'6" IH AAR standard box car (e.g., Intermountain), but
double doors would have to added and the underframe replaced.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: UP 40' auto box

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Jun 20, 2009, at 1:02 PM, mcindoefalls wrote:

I'm interested in modeling UP 471441, a 40' double door boxcar,
since it's been documented as operating on the route I want to
model. Is this the same class as the Trix double-door model, or the
Intermountain? If not, are photos, plans, or diagrams out there,
somewhere, of cars in the same class?





UP 471441 was an A-50-7 class car, originally wood sheathed but
rebuilt ca. 1940 into a steel sheathed car. The steel rebuilds kept
the original Bettendorf underframes and 5-5-5 corrugated ends with
two additional corrugations at the top. Roofs were panel steel,
doors were 12' double corrugated, trucks were AAR with spring planks,
running boards were wood, hand brakes were Ajax or Universal, and
couplers were bottom-operated Type E. A kitbash is possible based on
a model of a 10'6" IH AAR standard box car (e.g., Intermountain), but
double doors would have to added and the underframe replaced.

Richard Hendrickson


Sergent couplers

gn3397 <heninger@...>
 

Hello all,
I am considering using the Sergent couplers and have a question. In Tim Warris' video and post, he states that he occasionally has trouble coupling the cars, sometimes having to use quite a bit of force to couple cars. However, he also states that he purchased the assembled couplers. For those of you who use these couplers, have you noticed the same problems? Do you use the assembled couplers, or do you assemble them yourself? If so, what assembly "tweaks" would you recommend to improve the operation of these couplers?

Thanks for your time.

Sincerely,
Bob Heninger
Iowa City, IA

114701 - 114720 of 197060