Date   

Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

Bruce Smith
 

On Aug 24, 2009, at 12:14 AM, SUVCWORR@... wrote:





Gene,

I answer these questions from customers all the time.? So you should be able to ask your dealer before buying.

Rich Orr
Dealer? What dealer? I live more than 100 miles from the nearest hobby shop that knows anything about or carries Branchline. Yes, my local USA Hobbies will order them for me (at full price plus the 8% local sales tax) but he doesn't give refunds based on paint schemes or reweigh dates not being appropriate for my era. As I have noted before, if Al Westerfield can provide an accurate timeline for each car in an on-line web format, I'm baffled as to why others find it apparently so difficult.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ \
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

SUVCWORR@...
 

Tim,

Can and will are two different animals.? The information is on the Branchline boxes so I see no reason why any Branchline dealer should not be able to answer these questions.? Also, if asked I do open other manufacturers' boxes and provide the build and re-weigh dates if readable.? Now if I don't have the particular item in stock then I can't answer the question.

Also, to give credit where due, Atlas does list the paint dates of some but not all of their freight cars on their website but not on the box labels.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim O'Connor <@timboconnor>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Mon, Aug 24, 2009 4:13 am
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Prototype info from model mfgs











Rich, you're joking, right? Surely you jest. You may be the
ONLY dealer who can answer those questions.

Tim O'Connor



Gene,

I answer these questions from customers all the time.? So you should be able to
ask your dealer before buying.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sun, Aug 23, 2009 8:32 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

Brian and Rich,
Yes, I know the information is (and has been) on the box label. I don't think
I
worded my message as well as I might have.

In order to get the information from the box label one must be able to hold it
in one's hand. That means, for the most part, that one must either be in a
hobby shop that has the model of interest or, as in my case, have to buy the
model through the mail or internet, wait until it arrives and then see if it is
what one wants.

Having the information in advance is a benefit for those who, like me, are far,
far away from a decent hobby shop.

Gene Green


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

Tim O'Connor
 

Rich, you're joking, right? Surely you jest. You may be the
ONLY dealer who can answer those questions.

Tim O'Connor

Gene,

I answer these questions from customers all the time.? So you should be able to ask your dealer before buying.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sun, Aug 23, 2009 8:32 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

Brian and Rich,
Yes, I know the information is (and has been) on the box label. I don't think I
worded my message as well as I might have.

In order to get the information from the box label one must be able to hold it
in one's hand. That means, for the most part, that one must either be in a
hobby shop that has the model of interest or, as in my case, have to buy the
model through the mail or internet, wait until it arrives and then see if it is
what one wants.

Having the information in advance is a benefit for those who, like me, are far,
far away from a decent hobby shop.

Gene Green


Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

SUVCWORR@...
 

Gene,

I answer these questions from customers all the time.? So you should be able to ask your dealer before buying.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sun, Aug 23, 2009 8:32 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Prototype info from model mfgs










Brian and Rich,
Yes, I know the information is (and has been) on the box label. I don't think I
worded my message as well as I might have.

In order to get the information from the box label one must be able to hold it
in one's hand. That means, for the most part, that one must either be in a
hobby shop that has the model of interest or, as in my case, have to buy the
model through the mail or internet, wait until it arrives and then see if it is
what one wants.

Having the information in advance is a benefit for those who, like me, are far,
far away from a decent hobby shop.

Gene Green



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Salt

Schuyler Larrabee
 

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-08-23-09/Scranton_Salt_600x540.jpg

Out of the list era, but this is documentation of one way salt must have been handled within the
time limits of this list.

SGL
La vita e breve, mangiate prima il dolce!







E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.13100
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/


Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
 

Brian and Rich,
Yes, I know the information is (and has been) on the box label. I don't think I worded my message as well as I might have.

In order to get the information from the box label one must be able to hold it in one's hand. That means, for the most part, that one must either be in a hobby shop that has the model of interest or, as in my case, have to buy the model through the mail or internet, wait until it arrives and then see if it is what one wants.

Having the information in advance is a benefit for those who, like me, are far, far away from a decent hobby shop.

Gene Green


Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

SUVCWORR@...
 

This information have always been on the Branchline Blueprint series labels.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sun, Aug 23, 2009 5:01 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Prototype info from model mfgs










Branchline has joined the ranks of those manufacturers who provide dates built
as stenciled on their models. They are providing this information to dealers.
I don't know if it is available to consumers because I haven't visited their web
site in quite a while.

Here is what they have sent to dealers so far. Whether right or wrong, accurate
or inaccurate, prototypical or not, I applaud them for providing the
information. I am glad to have it. If Branchline has made mistakes tell them,
not me. I'm just a messenger.

Gene Green

BRANCHLINE BLUEPRINT SERIES All are HO scale.

# 1401 40' box car 6' door A&WP, Built 1947, Delivery Scheme
# 1410 40' box car 6' door ERIE Small Diamond, Built 1946, Delivery Scheme
# 1413 40' box car 6' door GM&O 2nd run w/turned wheels, Built 1947, Delivery
Scheme
# 1416 40' box car 6' door IC Box Car Red White 2nd run - new wheels, Built
1948, Delivery Scheme
# 1417 40' box car 6' door ITC, Built 1947, Delivery Scheme
# 1419 40' box car 6' door L&N, Built 1947/1952 repaint
# 1421 40' box car 6' door MP, Built 1950, Delivery Scheme
# 1427 40' box car 6' door NYC Green, Built 1949/1959 repaint
# 1438 40' box car 6' door AT&SF, Built
1945, Delivery Scheme, Class BX-44

# 1504 40' box car 8' door DT&I, Built 1950, Delivery Scheme
# 1506 40' box car 8' door IC, Built 1957, Delivery Scheme
# 1507 40' box car 8' door KCS, Built 1956, Delivery Scheme
# 1509 40' box car 8' door MP, Built 1956, Delivery Scheme
# 1512 40' box car 8' door PRR Circle Keystone, Built 1951, Delivery Scheme
# 1513 40' box car 8' door RDG, Built 1948, Delivery Scheme
# 1517 40' box car 8' door MEC Yellow Green lettering, Built 1948/ 1970 repaint
# 1520 40' box car 8'door RDG Green Yellow lettering, Built 1948/1970 repaint
# 1521 40' box car 8' door PRR Shadow Keystone, Built 1951/1956 repaint

# 1601 40' box car 7' door BCK, Built 1956, Delivery Scheme
# 1602 40' box car 7' door D&TS, Built 1948, Delivery Scheme
# 1603 40' box car 7' door ERIE Large Diamond, Built 1952, Delivery Scheme
# 1605 40' box car 7' door GTW, Built 1953, Delivery Scheme
# 1606 40' box car 7' door LV, Built 1950, Delivery Scheme
# 1607 40' box car 7' door NKP, Built 1946, Delivery Scheme
# 1608 40' box car 7' door PRR Circle Keystone, Built 1951, Delivery Scheme
# 1609 40' box car 7' door PRR Shadow Keystone, Built 1951/1957 repaint
# 1610 40' box car 7' door TP&W, Built 1951, Delivery Scheme
# 1611 40' box car 7' door WM Speed Lettering, Built 1951 Delivery Scheme
# 1612 40' box car 7' door WP, Built 1947-1952 repaint

BRANCHLINE YARDMASTER SERIES BOXCARS – SPECIAL EDITION All are HO scale.

# 9007 HO 40' box car GM&O GULF MOBILE &=2
0OHIO, Built 1942 /1960's Repaint
# 9015 HO 40' box car SP SOUTHERN PACIFIC, Built 1941 /1960's Repaint
# 9016 HO 40' box car MONON, Built 1942 / 1960's Repaint



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Prototype info from model mfgs

Brian Carlson <brian@...>
 

Gene; They have put that information on their boxes for many years, maybe
from the beginning of the Blueprint series.

Brian J. Carlson, P.E.
Cheektowaga NY


Prototype info from model mfgs

bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
 

Branchline has joined the ranks of those manufacturers who provide dates built as stenciled on their models. They are providing this information to dealers. I don't know if it is available to consumers because I haven't visited their web site in quite a while.

Here is what they have sent to dealers so far. Whether right or wrong, accurate or inaccurate, prototypical or not, I applaud them for providing the information. I am glad to have it. If Branchline has made mistakes tell them, not me. I'm just a messenger.

Gene Green

BRANCHLINE BLUEPRINT SERIES All are HO scale.

# 1401 40' box car 6' door A&WP, Built 1947, Delivery Scheme
# 1410 40' box car 6' door ERIE Small Diamond, Built 1946, Delivery Scheme
# 1413 40' box car 6' door GM&O 2nd run w/turned wheels, Built 1947, Delivery Scheme
# 1416 40' box car 6' door IC Box Car Red White 2nd run - new wheels, Built 1948, Delivery Scheme
# 1417 40' box car 6' door ITC, Built 1947, Delivery Scheme
# 1419 40' box car 6' door L&N, Built 1947/1952 repaint
# 1421 40' box car 6' door MP, Built 1950, Delivery Scheme
# 1427 40' box car 6' door NYC Green, Built 1949/1959 repaint
# 1438 40' box car 6' door AT&SF, Built 1945, Delivery Scheme, Class BX-44

# 1504 40' box car 8' door DT&I, Built 1950, Delivery Scheme
# 1506 40' box car 8' door IC, Built 1957, Delivery Scheme
# 1507 40' box car 8' door KCS, Built 1956, Delivery Scheme
# 1509 40' box car 8' door MP, Built 1956, Delivery Scheme
# 1512 40' box car 8' door PRR Circle Keystone, Built 1951, Delivery Scheme
# 1513 40' box car 8' door RDG, Built 1948, Delivery Scheme
# 1517 40' box car 8' door MEC Yellow Green lettering, Built 1948/ 1970 repaint
# 1520 40' box car 8'door RDG Green Yellow lettering, Built 1948/1970 repaint
# 1521 40' box car 8' door PRR Shadow Keystone, Built 1951/1956 repaint

# 1601 40' box car 7' door BCK, Built 1956, Delivery Scheme
# 1602 40' box car 7' door D&TS, Built 1948, Delivery Scheme
# 1603 40' box car 7' door ERIE Large Diamond, Built 1952, Delivery Scheme
# 1605 40' box car 7' door GTW, Built 1953, Delivery Scheme
# 1606 40' box car 7' door LV, Built 1950, Delivery Scheme
# 1607 40' box car 7' door NKP, Built 1946, Delivery Scheme
# 1608 40' box car 7' door PRR Circle Keystone, Built 1951, Delivery Scheme
# 1609 40' box car 7' door PRR Shadow Keystone, Built 1951/1957 repaint
# 1610 40' box car 7' door TP&W, Built 1951, Delivery Scheme
# 1611 40' box car 7' door WM Speed Lettering, Built 1951 Delivery Scheme
# 1612 40' box car 7' door WP, Built 1947-1952 repaint

BRANCHLINE YARDMASTER SERIES BOXCARS – SPECIAL EDITION All are HO scale.

# 9007 HO 40' box car GM&O GULF MOBILE & OHIO, Built 1942 /1960's Repaint
# 9015 HO 40' box car SP SOUTHERN PACIFIC, Built 1941 /1960's Repaint
# 9016 HO 40' box car MONON, Built 1942 / 1960's Repaint


Re: Cutting styrene sheet into narrow strips...

spsalso
 

--- In STMFC@..., VINCE PUGLIESE <gigitreosei@...> wrote:

For the record, I am fairly certain Evergreen uses waterjet technology to
produce their strip material.
I just checked the edges of some Evergreen strips from .010 to .250 and found tooth marks on all of them.

Ed


Re: Cutting styrene sheet into narrow strips...

VINCE PUGLIESE
 

For the record, I am fairly certain Evergreen uses waterjet technology to
produce their strip material.

.vp

--- On Sun, 8/23/09, stevelucas3 <stevelucas3@...> wrote:

From: stevelucas3 <stevelucas3@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Cutting styrene sheet into narrow strips...
To: STMFC@...
Received: Sunday, August 23, 2009, 1:45 PM






 





Jerry--



Thanks to you and everyone that suggested ways to do this.



I made a tool that uses a pair of razor blades (steel backing removed first) with a .020" styrene spacer between them. A 2" long piece of 1" wide by .032" thick brass strip, with three holes drilled in it to hold 4-40 screws, serves as the handle.



The blades and shim are assembled, the screws pushed through them and into the holes drilled in the handle. A 1/4" nut driver is used to tighten the nuts, and we have our tool.



I draw the tips of the blade at about a 30-degree angle along a steel straightedge across a sheet of .005" styrene, and can produce approximate .050" wide strips.



I tried making a similar tool without the spacer for .030" wide strips, but found that the blades flex too much for consistent width strips. Maybe a backing piece on the exposed side of the blades would help prevent blade flexing. But Evergreen makes .010" x .030" strips--I'll can live with the overthickness of these strips as the outside member of the Z's.



I had experimented with using a Fiskars "Eurpoean rotary paper trimmer"



http://www.fiskars. com/CA/en/ Crafts/Product+ Detail9596. html



for these strips, but found that paper strips of this width were hard to cut consistently with this tool, so did not progress to cutting styrene with it.



BTW, they make a nice diagonal cutter that isn't too expensive, and that I use as a parts trimmer and small diameter wire cutter--



http://www.fiskars. com/CA/en/ Crafts/Product+ Detailf5b7. html



Steve Lucas.



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, "jerryglow2" <jerryglow@. ..> wrote:

I can almost guarentee you a paper cutter will put a "twist" on the strips and it would probably be difficult to maintain consistant pieces. I would second on Andy's suggestion about the NWSL duplicutter.
Jerry Glow
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, RUTLANDRS@ wrote:
Steve,
Don't know if you can cut as small as you would like but you might try
a paper cutter.
Chuck Hladik
In a message dated 8/20/2009 7:03:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
stevelucas3@ writes:
I want to make some scale 3 1/8" high x 5" wide "Z" stock for an HO cinder
car that I am working on. But to build this up I cannot find commercial
stock that is thin enough and sometimes of the proper width to represent the
steel stock that these were formed from.
I plan to use scale 2x2 for the centre of the Z, and want to use .005" x
.050" for the bottom. The top of the Z is .005" x .030" wide stock.
Both of the .005 thick strips need to be cut from styrene sheet. But I
have trouble replicating the .030" and .050" widths uniformly. I have used a
digital vernier to scribe a reference line on the sheet, but it's hard to
have a hand-held scalpel follow this line consistently along a steel scale
rule. My efforts so far have produced strips of varying widths.
Any thoughts on how to make these strips?
Thanks in advance,
Steve Lucas.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Cutting styrene sheet into narrow strips...

stevelucas3 <stevelucas3@...>
 

Jerry--

Thanks to you and everyone that suggested ways to do this.

I made a tool that uses a pair of razor blades (steel backing removed first) with a .020" styrene spacer between them. A 2" long piece of 1" wide by .032" thick brass strip, with three holes drilled in it to hold 4-40 screws, serves as the handle.

The blades and shim are assembled, the screws pushed through them and into the holes drilled in the handle. A 1/4" nut driver is used to tighten the nuts, and we have our tool.

I draw the tips of the blade at about a 30-degree angle along a steel straightedge across a sheet of .005" styrene, and can produce approximate .050" wide strips.

I tried making a similar tool without the spacer for .030" wide strips, but found that the blades flex too much for consistent width strips. Maybe a backing piece on the exposed side of the blades would help prevent blade flexing. But Evergreen makes .010" x .030" strips--I'll can live with the overthickness of these strips as the outside member of the Z's.

I had experimented with using a Fiskars "Eurpoean rotary paper trimmer"

http://www.fiskars.com/CA/en/Crafts/Product+Detail9596.html

for these strips, but found that paper strips of this width were hard to cut consistently with this tool, so did not progress to cutting styrene with it.

BTW, they make a nice diagonal cutter that isn't too expensive, and that I use as a parts trimmer and small diameter wire cutter--

http://www.fiskars.com/CA/en/Crafts/Product+Detailf5b7.html



Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., "jerryglow2" <jerryglow@...> wrote:

I can almost guarentee you a paper cutter will put a "twist" on the strips and it would probably be difficult to maintain consistant pieces. I would second on Andy's suggestion about the NWSL duplicutter.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., RUTLANDRS@ wrote:

Steve,
Don't know if you can cut as small as you would like but you might try
a paper cutter.
Chuck Hladik


In a message dated 8/20/2009 7:03:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
stevelucas3@ writes:




I want to make some scale 3 1/8" high x 5" wide "Z" stock for an HO cinder
car that I am working on. But to build this up I cannot find commercial
stock that is thin enough and sometimes of the proper width to represent the
steel stock that these were formed from.

I plan to use scale 2x2 for the centre of the Z, and want to use .005" x
.050" for the bottom. The top of the Z is .005" x .030" wide stock.

Both of the .005 thick strips need to be cut from styrene sheet. But I
have trouble replicating the .030" and .050" widths uniformly. I have used a
digital vernier to scribe a reference line on the sheet, but it's hard to
have a hand-held scalpel follow this line consistently along a steel scale
rule. My efforts so far have produced strips of varying widths.

Any thoughts on how to make these strips?

Thanks in advance,

Steve Lucas.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: GPEX 977 and 969 Milk reefers in freight service for Ever Sweet OJ

Bill McCoy
 

Don, Thanks for the info on the Hood and Whiting moves. Were these moves to Boston? I'm certain you're correct that this was OJ not concentrate. I know the IM cars have their short comings but were the 6000 and 8000 gal. cars externally the same?. Unfortiunately they seem to be the only show in town except for brass renditions of these cars. Also did these cars in addition to the juice service stenciling, get full freight car capacity and load limit data like the Ever Sweet cars did? I gather the other graphics stayed the same as is on the IM cars. Did they have their passenger service appliances removed early in their freight service or was that near the end? Was this OJ service going during the 50s' and 60s?

RE Seminole Milk, we discussed this on the Milk Car Yahoo group a couple of years back. This was apparently a short lived one car operation that was transloaded as the processor was a mile ot two from the nearest possible unloading spot at Jacksonville Terminal Station. I see Athearn/Roundhouse offered this model on one of their MDT milk reefers (wrong car unfortunately).

I would very much like to get copies of your Ever Sweet photos. Maybe you can have them scanned. We can discuss further off line. Stan Rydarowicz offers resin reefer doors so I may be able to find something to replace the incorrect door when I see him in Naperville if I can get the correct demensions. Athearn seems to have gotten the paint right on their renditions of GPEX 977 and 969. Too bad it's on such a poor model.

Thanks for all your help.

Bill McCoy
Jax, FL

--- In STMFC@..., "riverman_vt" <riverman_vt@...> wrote:


Now you are tromping in my field of expertise so perhaps I can assist. I agree with the numbers and service for the two cars cited. Eversweet was not the only company to use GPEX cars in the transport
of orange juice concentrate, however, as this was also done by both
H.P. Hood & Sons and the Whiting Milk Co., both based in Boston. In Hood's case the product was moved in 52 ft. GPEX cars of the last style constructed in 1947. These were the 8,000 gal. version of the 6,000 gal. car that InterMountain made such a mess of with their model having a totally incorrect roof slope angle and, thus, improper ends as well.
In such use these cars remained in their standard GPEX Pullman Green paint with Dulux lettering denoting whomever the car was leased to.
Hood's OJ originated in Dunedin, Fl. where Hood purchased an orange juice processing plant. I do not know where Whiting acquired theirs but know it came from Florida. You also have the Seminole Milk Co. of Jacksonville that had milk tank cars of the General American type early on that might be used to justify an actual milk car that operated in Florida. I'm sorry that I can't assist with the routing of that car or a date when the service ended but, if memory serves, the processing plant was located near a major yard in Jax. From this you can see that the cars you mentioned are not the only possibilites open to you.

Returning specifically to GPEX 969 and 977 which you refer to some additonal points need to be raised. The General American "builders photos" that I have of these two cars are in reality only photos that were taken to document the paint scheme used on these two cars in OJ seervice, both both having been built in the 1920's. The photo of 977 was taken subsequent to its November 1955 servicing at General American's East Chicago facility while that of 969 was taken subsequent to its March 1960 servicing there. As you must be aware, however, these two cars were not at all painted in the same manner. The 977 was not lettered with the usual GPEX Roman style of lettering except for its reporting marks. To the left of the door the lettering stated "Scenic Citrus Corporation" over "Lyons, Illinois-Frostproof, Florida", with both states spelled out in their entirety. To the right of the door in fanciful script was a large "Eversweet" over "100% pure orange juice" in smaller lettering of the same font used for the lessees name at the left. I presume that the body of this car was painted Pullman green but am not certain of that having no color photos or lettering diagrams for the car. The "General American - Pfaudler Corporation" on the letterboard appears to be in GPEX's standard Dulux gold color and font while the remainder of the lettering on the cars' sides appears to be in white or, possibly, aluminum color. Non-standard for GPEX in any case. The 969 is altogether different in the way it was painted, again as you are probably well aware. The bottom two feet or so of the car sides have a dark band, above which the remainder of the car side is a much lighter color. White or possibly yellow or orange, I cannot tell, though orange would certainly fit with its service. But the "Scenic Citrus Corporation" had by this time become the "Eversweet Corporation" in the same lettering font used on 977 but in a contrasting dark color.
To the right of the door the fanciful "EverSweet" lettering had been reduced considerably in size, moved to the left and had what I would describe as a 1 qt. size Excello carton pouring orange juice into a glass painted on the car. To the right of the carton were the words "Fresh squeezed orange juice" in still another different lettering font. I had not given it any thought previously but wonder if what you suggest might be correct and that this car carried 100% juice rather than concentrate.

There are two points about these cars that I wonder if you have considered in using any of the available styrene models for them. First is the fact that the 969 has an ice hatch on at least the left hand side of the "A" end of the car when facing the "A" end, though the 977 does not appear to have this feature. Such an ice hatch isn't too big a job to add for an accurate model but what on earth are you going to do about the doors??? In case you had not noticed it the reefer style doors used on both of these cars had been replaced with the more narrow, single style of replacement door, initiated with GPEX 950 in April of 1944, before they entered orange juice service. To model this door accurately would require some fairly major reworking of the car sides, though it certainly could be done.

In any event, I have copies of R. Loganecker's original "builders photos" of these cars and might be able to assist if someone could be found to print them as my darkroom is down at the moment. And to keep the SMTFC police at least partially happy it should also be noted that H.P. Hood & Sons was the last known outfit to operate GPEX cars in either milk or OJ service, with both having ended in 1972. Many such cars went to the GM&O for use as water cars in work train service, while others went to museums. By the end of milk and/or OJ service, however, the passenger steam heat and air signal lines, as well as the buffers, had been removed, relegating the cars to freight service only even if a bit later than the era of this list when this was done. They also had "push or shove to rest" lettering added at the end of their carsides when used in freight service.

For anyone seriously interested in milk car and milk train information I moderate a list for same as another Yahoo group under the NAMTA heading for North American Milk Train Association. There are two milk car groups on Yahoo, teh NAMTA group and a less serious one.

Hope this helps, Don Valentine


Re: B&O Intermountain HO 70 ton Flats

boyds1949 <E27ca@...>
 

Bruce,

The B&O lettering matches the builders photos of 8400. The "B&O" and car number may be just a tiny bit small but nobody will notice unless they are holding the car next to the photo.

The wooden deck parts look like they were applied with double faced tape and were easily removed with a razor blade. A little work with a file on the bottom and the decks are now level with the bolster. Easy enough that even I could do it, and that's saying something.

John King

--- In STMFC@..., "bdg1210" <Bruce_Griffin@...> wrote:

Marty,

Jim Mischke was involved with this kit making sure the B&O stuff was accurate, so I think it will be pretty good for B&O. It is my understanding that B&O style bulkheads will be applied to a future kit. I added B&O to the subject in hopes of getting Jim to weigh in. He can fill in the details, but if we don't hear from him I will pull out an old B&O Modeler with info about the ProtoWest kit.

I am building the Protowest kit with auto/truck frames for a 1953(?) subclass that transported frames between Philly on the Reading and Baltimore. Not too useful for many modelers, but fun to build the appliances applied to the car to hold the frames.

Regards,
Bruce D. Griffin
Summerfield, NC

--- In STMFC@..., Marty McGuirk <mjmcguirk@> wrote:



Re-lettered or renumbered  . . . or both?



While we're on the subject of the IRC flats two questions -



1. Am I the only one who thinks the New Haven lettering looks a little "heavy"?

2. How accurate are the B&O cars? I thought the B&O 70-ton flats were built after the war (1948 sticks in my head) - I'm just curious if they were the same design as the cars built during the war years.





Thanks in advance.



Marty




----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Carlson" <midcentury@>
To: "Steam Era" <stmfc@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 3:17:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [STMFC] Intermountain HO 70 ton Santa Fe Flats

 




I got the following message from a good Santa Fe modeler:

Hi Andy,
The box arrived to day with no problems. Thanks. But
as usual Intermountain has screwed it up again. The Ft-V
flat is a 50 ton War Emergency car. So the cars will have to
be relettered. See why I prefer to buy kits.
It seems that IM must have placed the wrong paint scheme on their Santa Fe 70 flat cars which were just recently released.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA





Re: Cutting styrene sheet into narrow strips...

jerryglow2
 

I can almost guarentee you a paper cutter will put a "twist" on the strips and it would probably be difficult to maintain consistant pieces. I would second on Andy's suggestion about the NWSL duplicutter.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., RUTLANDRS@... wrote:

Steve,
Don't know if you can cut as small as you would like but you might try
a paper cutter.
Chuck Hladik


In a message dated 8/20/2009 7:03:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
stevelucas3@... writes:




I want to make some scale 3 1/8" high x 5" wide "Z" stock for an HO cinder
car that I am working on. But to build this up I cannot find commercial
stock that is thin enough and sometimes of the proper width to represent the
steel stock that these were formed from.

I plan to use scale 2x2 for the centre of the Z, and want to use .005" x
.050" for the bottom. The top of the Z is .005" x .030" wide stock.

Both of the .005 thick strips need to be cut from styrene sheet. But I
have trouble replicating the .030" and .050" widths uniformly. I have used a
digital vernier to scribe a reference line on the sheet, but it's hard to
have a hand-held scalpel follow this line consistently along a steel scale
rule. My efforts so far have produced strips of varying widths.

Any thoughts on how to make these strips?

Thanks in advance,

Steve Lucas.









B&O Intermountain HO 70 ton Flats

bdg1210 <Bruce_Griffin@...>
 

Marty,

Jim Mischke was involved with this kit making sure the B&O stuff was accurate, so I think it will be pretty good for B&O. It is my understanding that B&O style bulkheads will be applied to a future kit. I added B&O to the subject in hopes of getting Jim to weigh in. He can fill in the details, but if we don't hear from him I will pull out an old B&O Modeler with info about the ProtoWest kit.

I am building the Protowest kit with auto/truck frames for a 1953(?) subclass that transported frames between Philly on the Reading and Baltimore. Not too useful for many modelers, but fun to build the appliances applied to the car to hold the frames.

Regards,
Bruce D. Griffin
Summerfield, NC

--- In STMFC@..., Marty McGuirk <mjmcguirk@...> wrote:



Re-lettered or renumbered  . . . or both?



While we're on the subject of the IRC flats two questions -



1. Am I the only one who thinks the New Haven lettering looks a little "heavy"?

2. How accurate are the B&O cars? I thought the B&O 70-ton flats were built after the war (1948 sticks in my head) - I'm just curious if they were the same design as the cars built during the war years.





Thanks in advance.



Marty




----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Carlson" <midcentury@...>
To: "Steam Era" <stmfc@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 3:17:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [STMFC] Intermountain HO 70 ton Santa Fe Flats

 




I got the following message from a good Santa Fe modeler:

Hi Andy,
The box arrived to day with no problems. Thanks. But
as usual Intermountain has screwed it up again. The Ft-V
flat is a 50 ton War Emergency car. So the cars will have to
be relettered. See why I prefer to buy kits.
It seems that IM must have placed the wrong paint scheme on their Santa Fe 70 flat cars which were just recently released.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA





GPEX 977 and 969 Milk reefers in freight service for Ever Sweet OJ

Bob McCarthy
 

Goodevening,
 
     Appreciate all the reseach being done as we are going to produce the decals for these cars when enough information is gathered.
 
    We will need to have some idea of how many sets and in what scales we will need to produce.  Please forward requirements to the email address below.  We will have pricing once we can determine the complexity of what we will need to create and print.
 
Thanks,
 
Bob McCarthy
THE SUPPLY CAR, LLC
thesupplycar@...

--- On Sat, 8/22/09, riverman_vt <riverman_vt@...> wrote:


From: riverman_vt <riverman_vt@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: GPEX 977 and 969 Milk reefers in freight service for Ever Sweet OJ
To: STMFC@...
Date: Saturday, August 22, 2009, 10:29 AM


 



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, "salemoryga" <wpmccoy@... > wrote:

Charlie, I really don't know. I think it was the Athearn car. Either >way it doesn't hold a candle to the BLI and WLW GAC 50' express >reefers and WLW milk car. It also is still an Express reefer complete >with hatches and no filler over the door.

Re who served them in Chicago (Lyons) I don't have a clue. If someone >has a 1960s Chicago switching tarriff it should show since IRC Lyons >was in the switching district. Most important to me is that Frostproof >was local on the ACL and their best route would have been either >Atlanta or Birmingham L&N.

I'm determined to have a milk reefer and these look like the only >ones that could have traveled via Atlanta during my modeling period >Atlanta 1957-1967.
Now you are tromping in my field of expertise so perhaps I can assist. I agree with the numbers and service for the two cars cited. Eversweet was not the only company to use GPEX cars in the transport
of orange juice concentrate, however, as this was also done by both
H.P. Hood & Sons and the Whiting Milk Co., both based in Boston. In Hood's case the product was moved in 52 ft. GPEX cars of the last style constructed in 1947. These were the 8,000 gal. version of the 6,000 gal. car that InterMountain made such a mess of with their model having a totally incorrect roof slope angle and, thus, improper ends as well.
In such use these cars remained in their standard GPEX Pullman Green paint with Dulux lettering denoting whomever the car was leased to.
Hood's OJ originated in Dunedin, Fl. where Hood purchased an orange juice processing plant. I do not know where Whiting acquired theirs but know it came from Florida. You also have the Seminole Milk Co. of Jacksonville that had milk tank cars of the General American type early on that might be used to justify an actual milk car that operated in Florida. I'm sorry that I can't assist with the routing of that car or a date when the service ended but, if memory serves, the processing plant was located near a major yard in Jax. From this you can see that the cars you mentioned are not the only possibilites open to you.

Returning specifically to GPEX 969 and 977 which you refer to some additonal points need to be raised. The General American "builders photos" that I have of these two cars are in reality only photos that were taken to document the paint scheme used on these two cars in OJ seervice, both both having been built in the 1920's. The photo of 977 was taken subsequent to its November 1955 servicing at General American's East Chicago facility while that of 969 was taken subsequent to its March 1960 servicing there. As you must be aware, however, these two cars were not at all painted in the same manner. The 977 was not lettered with the usual GPEX Roman style of lettering except for its reporting marks. To the left of the door the lettering stated "Scenic Citrus Corporation" over "Lyons, Illinois-Frostproof , Florida", with both states spelled out in their entirety. To the right of the door in fanciful script was a large "Eversweet" over "100% pure orange juice"
in smaller lettering of the same font used for the lessees name at the left. I presume that the body of this car was painted Pullman green but am not certain of that having no color photos or lettering diagrams for the car. The "General American - Pfaudler Corporation" on the letterboard appears to be in GPEX's standard Dulux gold color and font while the remainder of the lettering on the cars' sides appears to be in white or, possibly, aluminum color. Non-standard for GPEX in any case. The 969 is altogether different in the way it was painted, again as you are probably well aware. The bottom two feet or so of the car sides have a dark band, above which the remainder of the car side is a much lighter color. White or possibly yellow or orange, I cannot tell, though orange would certainly fit with its service. But the "Scenic Citrus Corporation" had by this time become the "Eversweet Corporation" in the same lettering font used on 977 but in a contrasting
dark color.
To the right of the door the fanciful "EverSweet" lettering had been reduced considerably in size, moved to the left and had what I would describe as a 1 qt. size Excello carton pouring orange juice into a glass painted on the car. To the right of the carton were the words "Fresh squeezed orange juice" in still another different lettering font. I had not given it any thought previously but wonder if what you suggest might be correct and that this car carried 100% juice rather than concentrate.

There are two points about these cars that I wonder if you have considered in using any of the available styrene models for them. First is the fact that the 969 has an ice hatch on at least the left hand side of the "A" end of the car when facing the "A" end, though the 977 does not appear to have this feature. Such an ice hatch isn't too big a job to add for an accurate model but what on earth are you going to do about the doors??? In case you had not noticed it the reefer style doors used on both of these cars had been replaced with the more narrow, single style of replacement door, initiated with GPEX 950 in April of 1944, before they entered orange juice service. To model this door accurately would require some fairly major reworking of the car sides, though it certainly could be done.

In any event, I have copies of R. Loganecker's original "builders photos" of these cars and might be able to assist if someone could be found to print them as my darkroom is down at the moment. And to keep the SMTFC police at least partially happy it should also be noted that H.P. Hood & Sons was the last known outfit to operate GPEX cars in either milk or OJ service, with both having ended in 1972. Many such cars went to the GM&O for use as water cars in work train service, while others went to museums. By the end of milk and/or OJ service, however, the passenger steam heat and air signal lines, as well as the buffers, had been removed, relegating the cars to freight service only even if a bit later than the era of this list when this was done. They also had "push or shove to rest" lettering added at the end of their carsides when used in freight service.

For anyone seriously interested in milk car and milk train information I moderate a list for same as another Yahoo group under the NAMTA heading for North American Milk Train Association. There are two milk car groups on Yahoo, teh NAMTA group and a less serious one.

Hope this helps, Don Valentine



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ADMIN: Santa Fe Ft-V flat car

jtcrgs455 <jtcrgs455@...>
 

Gentlemen,
If we're going to be nitpickers and go to the trouble of reducing the thickness of the wood floor, you need not preserve the detail stamped on the top either. That's because the bolt pattern on the top does not correspond entirely with the underframe of the car. I would hope in the future the IM will go to the cost and trouble of using a lasercut wood floor that is correct for the specific prototype. In the mean time I intend to leave well enough alone.

--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:

On Aug 20, 2009, at 5:43 PM, Mike Brock wrote:

....Richard says the the laser cut wood
floor is too thick. How much too thick? Can it be lowered by sanding?
Not a whole lot, and I think it can be pared down - but the question
is whether the floor can be pursuaded to part company with the body,
as the material should be removed from the bottom in order to
preserve the detail stamped into the top. I intend to find out, and
will post my findings to the list. Note that this problem affects
all of the IM 70 ton AAR flats - the floor is too thick on my Erie
model, as well, and Ed Hawkins warned me about this before I bought
the models. However, it will be next week before I have anything to
report, as I am flying the Citabria up to Salem, OR first thing
tomorrow morning to attend Greg Martin's Northwest Prototype Modelers
meet and won't be back until late Sunday.

Richard Hendrickson



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Caboose Lighting

Rod Miller
 

Jim Betz wrote:
Hi,
I've accepted the task of adding lighting to a large number of
cabeese. About 50 or so. Most of them are brass and have the
relatively common shouldered truck screw that has a spring that
holds the truck against the bolster. And most of them have an
electrical situation where one side of the track and the trucks
and the frame and the body of the caboose are all tied to each
other.
And since these are primarily brass - the trucks on them are
selected/detailed for that particular caboose class for that RR.
Furthermore they are also, in general, sprung trucks where the
truck side frame moves with respect to the truck bolster. Finally the trucks are set up to have both trucks electrically
the same ... both truck's wheelsets having the same side 'hot'.
I do -not- have to achieve dead solid electrical pickup. I'll
be using a circuit that only needs to see the power every once
in a while and will drive the LEDs I'll use for the lighting
from that.
So my challenge is that I need to get the power from the other
rail (actually from both rails - but in most cases one of them
is "already done").
One way to do this would be to put some kind of wiper on the
insulated wheel that either wipes on the back of the wheel or
on the wheel tread. I'm concerned that doing this will affect
or compromise the action of the truck side-frame and bolster.
Another way would be to replace the metal truck screw with a
fiber screw and put in an insulating washer between the truck
and the body - thus electrically isolating the truck from the
rest of the model and allowing reversing the trucks so that
each truck picks up from one track. The challenge here is
that the existing truck screw is almost always one of those
shouldered screws where the larger diameter goes completely
thru the truck bolster and the shoulder bottoms out on the
body. Nobody that I know makes shouldered screws out of fiber.
So I'd have to figure out how to put some kind of 'sleeve'
on a standard size fiber screw - and that sleeve would have
to be electrically dead as well.
Any body have any other ideas? Any body have any strong
preferences for/against any particular method above?
thanks ... Jim
Hi Jim,

Here are some photos of how I provide electrical
pickup for non-motive power equipment. It is O
scale, but the techniques are scale-independent.

I am a big believer in all-wheel pickup and so
leave the trucks hot to the frame of the car,
leaving just the insulated side in need of
wiring into the carbody.

http://www.rodmiller.com/wiper_examples.html

Any questions please holler.

Rod


Re: Brake rigging diagram for Express box troop sleeper conversions

stevelucas3 <stevelucas3@...>
 

The drawings in MR a few years back showed two AB-1-B complete sets, one for each truck. They would have been equipped with gradauted release (not usually fitted to AB brakes) to run in passenger trains.

I'd be interested to know if the roads purchasing these cars stripped one AB-1-B set off, kept both, or fitted true passenger brake systems like a UC or D-22. Perhaps at the same time as they changed out the Allied Full Cushion trucks? Likely all three, depending on the road's mechanical preferences, and calling for modellers of these cars to pay close attention to the brake arrangement on the specific cars that they are modelling.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., water.kresse@... wrote:




I'm in the middle of doing a C&O Box Express Car article for C&O History next year with Phil Shuster.  We've stretched included series to the BX cars to include their BE ex-troop sleepers. 



Do we know of a source for Hi-Res Photos these cars as built by Pullman? 



I'd also like to know what type of brakes these cars had.  I know there was a bulletin out  to Newport News Hampton road Port of Debarkation folks saying be careful to double check which type of brakes were on the ACF, Pullman, and some railroad built cars in 1944.



Al Kresse




----- Original Message -----
From: "golden1014" <golden1014@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 5:20:37 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Brake rigging diagram for Express box troop sleeper conversions

Bill,

I have something you can use--provided by Mike Auferheide (sp?) and Chad Boas. I'll shoot you the drawings off line.

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

--- In STMFC@..., "salemoryga" <wpmccoy@> wrote:

I want to detail the underbody on my CB&Q, C&O, and NYC express box troop sleeper conversions. Walthers has the beginnings of a dual system complete with 2 resevoirs, triple valves and brake cylinders. Can someone direct me to the rigging diagrams? Come to think of it these conversions may have been done by each carrier. Oh well, any help would be appreciated.

Bill McCoy
Jax, FL