This is a Walter Lucas book that I did not have in my Library (three other titles by him that I do have are 100 Years of Classic Steam Locomotives, Locomotives and Cars Since 1900, and 100 Years of Railroad Cars).
I went to grade school with his son and knew he was an HO Model Railroader and vaguely knew he worked for Simmons-Boardman; wish I'd known more and met him and knew what questions to ask him!!
Charlie Vlk


I ran into this on another forum. This is a Simmons-Boardman book. It's a condensation of material from late '40s S-B Cyclopedias aimed at the hobbyist audience. At a quick look it seems to be a great reference on the state of the art of railroading technology during the ever-popular transition era.

Free pdf download from Google books: http://www.google.com/books?id=ryhSAAAAMAAJ

I'm with those who don't like the applicator tubes and prefer
using a pin as an applicator. I've been impressed with the Bob Smith
Industries CA packaging, with a tip which doesn't ever seem to clog,
though it's too large to use as an applicator by itself.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history

I would like to hear what others are using for applicator tips for ACC glue bottles.

How do you keep them from clogging?

How do you clean them out when clogged?

In particular, I have been using some applicators that fit onto the bottle top. They have a metal tube that is quite small -- I only use them for the thin liquid ACC. They are great for this purpose, giving very good control of the thin glue that tends to run otherwise.

Nevertheless, they clog after a few uses and I haven't figured out any way to clean them out -- I don't have any wire or drills small enough to fit into the tiny tubes and ACC debonder doesn't seem to work.

Thanks
Rick Stern

I would like to hear what others are using for applicator tips for ACC glue bottles.

How do you keep them from clogging?

How do you clean them out when clogged?

In particular, I have been using some applicators that fit onto the bottle top. They have a metal tube that is quite small -- I only use them for the thin liquid ACC. They are great for this purpose, giving very good control of the thin glue that tends to run otherwise.

Nevertheless, they clog after a few uses and I haven't figured out any way to clean them out -- I don't have any wire or drills small enough to fit into the tiny tubes and ACC debonder doesn't seem to work.

Thanks
Rick Stern

Tim,

Thanks for the help. I can't find an O18 in any of my ACL equipment photo books but it looks like that will entail a stripping and repainting. Maybe I can find and undecorated RC 40' DD.

It looks like the O21 has problems in addition to the ends. The cars also had a 14' door opening.

Maybe Ted Culotta will do an ACL O21 or O23

I guess I'm out of luck on the Southern car too so it joins the ACL car on the disposal list.

Bill



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@> wrote:

ill McCoy wrote

Question 1.
Looking at exchanges from back in 2003 it seems that the RC 40' DD is only good for the SAL and Soo Line. Before I get rid of my Southern and ACL renditions I want to confirm this.

Yes, you are correct. The others are stand ins, althought the ACL O-18
pretty much matched the 1937 AAR design except for 3 1/2" of extra height.
Red Caboose screwed it up by giving the cars O-21 numbers. The O-21 was
almost identical but it had 5/5 ends!

Question 2.
I do have one of the desplaines Hobbies RC 40' Soo cars with square corners and the $ herald. My question is how long this herald lasted. Would there have been examples running in August 1957?

Yes, there is a 1966 Jim Sands photo of such a car in revenue service.

Tim O'Connor

Um, Tim, it's not a different end, just turned around 180
degrees. You do of course need an end with BOTH SIDES corrugated, not
one of the typical plastic kit ends with smooth insides, but there are
several resin ends which would work.

The problem has to do with where the "normal" plane of the end sheet is after
pressing. The Accurail gon end also looks superficially like one of those
"bifurcated" ends (I hate that word...there must be a better term) from the
inside. However, if the wales surounding the darts are supposed to swell
outward from the plane the flanges join, it doesn't cut it either. It's as if
you grafted the center of a reversed dreadnaught section to the normal coners,
with the parts that would usually be the depressions between the wales being
projections, with their ends blending into the bends of the flanges. there are
straight on photos in the May 2005 Mainline Modeler that illustrate this well;
also the fact that there are both "early" and "improved" versions of this
pattern, because it really is the same pattern as a normal Dreadnaught end.

Luckily, most model ends have enough "meat" in the edges of the part that one
could modify the corners, but the areas above and below the wales are
problematic.

Dennis