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FW: Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced
Not sure what Bill wants, but I want the alternate standard side car for
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Erie, NKP C&O. Brian J. Carlson, P.E. Cheektowaga NY
-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of soolinehistory Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 1:34 PM To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Subject: [STMFC] Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced --- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote: version of the offset twin. InterMountain, Rapido, Tahoe, Athearn, Branchline, Walther Proto 2000, is ANYONE listening? So, Bill, what's the most common version of the offset twin? Dennis
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Re: ACC Applicators
Stokes John
Denny,
Thanks for taking the time to be detailed and explicit on your techniques. This kind of information and experience is invaluable and I for one appreciate the tips and will put your method to good use. John Stokes Bellevue, WA To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com From: danspach@macnexus.org Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 09:55:32 -0700 Subject: [STMFC] Re: ACC Applicators This is a copy of my reply to the same inquiry made recently on the Passenger Car List: Three lessons from life about the useful application of ACC from tubes: 1) When puncturing the tube opening, avoid any inadvertent squeezing of the tube so that the contents are not under pressure to pour out. 2) *Never (ever!) allow these tubes to rest in any other position but UPRIGHT (I keep square styrofoam scraps with V-shaped cuts in the middle designed to hold these tubes)*. These simple two directives above will result of having a tube of ACC that- a) can last usable for months on end; and b) has a tip free of any clogging. 3) Do not apply glue directly from tube, but only into a tiny intermediate puddle (Westerfield technique) from which actual application is made by needle or similar. Even then, let the glue flow from the tip without squeezing the tube except perhaps with imperceptible pressure at the very bottom. Instead of glass for puddling, I use small squares of aluminum foil reinforced by folding the edges. I puddle the very tiniest drop, and I use steel sewing needle applicators in holders (superior!), rather than pins. I keep an old razor blade handy to constantly "peel" off any dried ACC on the applicator tip. I purchase Asian-produced ACC tubes in bulk at flea markets for about @ $0.15, and have been doing so for some years. Occasionally, I get a dry tube, or a tube of ACC that sets so fast one does not have time to work it, but on balance this stuff does exactly what I want and expect it to do at very little cost. My current tube was opened for use this past May, and the tube, the applicator, and the glue remain quite usable. Denny Denny S. Anspach MD Sacramento
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The most common Offset Twin
Bill Welch
The most common version did not have the ever so slight "swale" along the bottom of the side sheathing but was straight along the bottom edge of the car's side. The L&N and C&O had thousands of these and the Southern had approximately 3,000. While one can "get there" using Athearn and Atlas models, both involve removing molded on grabs and replacing with wire. The Athearn example is not up to modern standards in that the inside of the car is not modeled correctly.
Dennis, my apologies for leaving Accurail off the list I wish would do this car. If you do it, please do not cast the grabs in place! Personally, I don't care about the sill steps. There are only four per car. But on hoppers the many grabs are out there for the world to see and need to be modeled with wire, as with IM's covered hopper and Athearn's Airslide. Bill Welch
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Re: Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol. 19
William Sharpe <wsharpe1@...>
Hi Ed;
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Thank you for the heads up on RPC Volume 19. I will be sending my remittance to you in the mail today and would like to receive my copy from you at Naperville. I look forward to seeing you then. Bill William H. Sharpe Hamilton, Ontario
-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ed Hawkins Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 7:48 PM To: STMFC Discussion Group Subject: [STMFC] Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol. 19 STMFC Group, The RP CYC Publishing Company is pleased to announce the imminent release of RAILWAY PROTOTYPE CYCLOPEDIA, Volume 19, scheduled for distribution beginning in the last week of October 2009. Volume 19 contains much useful prototype and scale modeling information: 149 black & white and color photographs, 31 diagrams, and 4 tables for a total of 113 pages comprising three in-depth articles on the following subjects: 1. Emergency Composite Box Cars by Patrick C. Wider (50 pages). The article is the fourth in a series that cover American box car designs that were built in large quantities during the first half of the 20th Century. The author covers the single-sheathed and plywood-sheathed 40' and 50' emergency box cars constructed during World War II following restrictions imposed by the War Production Board. 2. Erie 40-Ton Express Milk Cars by Patrick C. Wider (10 pages). The author describes and illustrates the unique Erie express milk cars built during the 1930s by the Greenville Steel Car Company. Also discussed and illustrated are some of the cars converted for express baggage service. 3. The Family of All-Welded 70-Ton 52'-6" Drop-End Gondola Cars Based on PRR's Class G31 by Ed Hawkins (53 pages). The article covers an interesting group of subject cars first built by the Pennsylvania Railroad (Class G31) in 1948-1950, followed in the 1950s with derivatives built by American Car & Foundry and Pullman-Standard for Pennsy, Atlantic Coast Line, Birmingham Southern, Delaware & Hudson, Delaware, Lackawanna & Western, Southern Pacific, Wabash, Sacramento Northern, and Western Pacific. We appreciate your support and extend to you a pre-publication offer for Volume 19. The normal retail price for Volume 19 is $29.95. However, your cost is only $24.00 (postpaid to addresses in the U.S.) - a 20-percent discount. But here's the catch! Your payment must be postmarked by October 24, 2009 for this offer to be valid. Mail orders with postmarks after this date will not be honored. To take advantage of this one-time, pre-publication offer for RP CYC Volume 19, please send a check or money order in the amount of $24.00 by October 24, 2009 to: RP CYC Publishing Co. P.O. Box 451 Chesterfield, MO 63006-0451 Missouri residents must add $1.85 state & local sales tax ($25.85 total amount). For single book orders to Canada, please add $5.79, and for single book orders to all other countries please add $12.28 (Air Mail). Internet users: Please visit our new web site address: http://www.rpcycpub.com. A flyer with summary information in PDF format can be downloaded at: http://www.rpcycpub.com/v19_flyer.pdf For those attending the Naperville Prototype Modelers Seminar, if you wish to have your book delivered at the meet, please indicate. We encourage this option. Please contact me off-list if you have any difficulties downloading the PDF or require additional information. We thank you! Regards, Ed Hawkins & Pat Wider ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
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Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced
Dennis Storzek
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:
So, Bill, what's the most common version of the offset twin? Dennis
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Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced
Bill
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The most common version? Which one is that? It seems to me there are dozens of variants -- sides, ends, hopper door mechanisms, inside length (and cubic capacity). So far we have't gotten any of the "alternate standard" cars (except for the ancient Ulrich castings). I'm hoping for an NP, GN, IC, C&O or NKP car someday... Tim O'Connor
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
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Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced
Bill Welch
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
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Could someone please wake me when a manufacturer offers the most common version of the offset twin. InterMountain, Rapido, Tahoe, Athearn, Branchline, Walther Proto 2000, is ANYONE listening? Bill Welch
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
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Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced
John, Ed Hawkins previously posted that 867000-867999 match
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the Kadee model. Tim O'Connor
Here's an interesting announcement (scroll to bottom): Kadee offset hoppers in NYC.
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Re: ACC Applicators
Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
This is a copy of my reply to the same inquiry made recently on the Passenger Car List:
Three lessons from life about the useful application of ACC from tubes: 1) When puncturing the tube opening, avoid any inadvertent squeezing of the tube so that the contents are not under pressure to pour out. 2) *Never (ever!) allow these tubes to rest in any other position but UPRIGHT (I keep square styrofoam scraps with V-shaped cuts in the middle designed to hold these tubes)*. These simple two directives above will result of having a tube of ACC that- a) can last usable for months on end; and b) has a tip free of any clogging. 3) Do not apply glue directly from tube, but only into a tiny intermediate puddle (Westerfield technique) from which actual application is made by needle or similar. Even then, let the glue flow from the tip without squeezing the tube except perhaps with imperceptible pressure at the very bottom. Instead of glass for puddling, I use small squares of aluminum foil reinforced by folding the edges. I puddle the very tiniest drop, and I use steel sewing needle applicators in holders (superior!), rather than pins. I keep an old razor blade handy to constantly "peel" off any dried ACC on the applicator tip. I purchase Asian-produced ACC tubes in bulk at flea markets for about @ $0.15, and have been doing so for some years. Occasionally, I get a dry tube, or a tube of ACC that sets so fast one does not have time to work it, but on balance this stuff does exactly what I want and expect it to do at very little cost. My current tube was opened for use this past May, and the tube, the applicator, and the glue remain quite usable. Denny Denny S. Anspach MD Sacramento
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Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced
golden1014
Gentlemen,
Here's an interesting announcement (scroll to bottom): Kadee offset hoppers in NYC. http://www.kadee.com/ca/preorder.htm I'm not familiar with the detail idiosyncrasies of the NYC prototypes versus the stock Kadee model, but I'll probably be a customer regardless. John John Golden Bloomington, IN [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: ACC Applicators
Lee Thwaits <leethwaits@...>
Acetone is the solvent for ACC. Keep a small bottle of acetone handy and dropped your applicators, tubes, etc. in it when finished using and take them out next time you need them.
Lee
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Re: ACC Applicators
rgmodels@...
I use a 4" square of 1/4" glass for a drop of ACC. When your glass is
about covered you can scrape off the dried ACC with a razor blade. For an applicator I use applicators I make. A needle inserted in a piece of 1/4" dowel with the end ground off forming a "U" at the end. Several small size needles will cover most applications. To get rid of dried up ACC I keep a cheap cigarette lighter handy to burn off the ACC. I'll will have a supply of these applicators available at next years Nat NG Convention in St. Louis. eric/Rio Grande Models
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Re: ACC Applicators
Allen Cain <allencain@...>
Like so many others have noted, I use a straight pin with the head cut off
in an X-Acto type knife made by a third party (came in a free knife set from Model Expo) which has a plastic/rubber insert designed to hold a round tool. The ACC is dropped sparingly onto a piece of wax paper that my wife grudgingly donates to the cause. I do sharpen the pin point on a stone to get a nice precise point. I also use the very inexpensive add on tips on the bottle. They look like plastic tubing that has been heated and pulled to neck down most of the tube. The large end is forced onto the bottom and the tip is very long. If the tip plugs, just cut it off as there is plenty of length. When finished, I pull it off the bottle and throw it away and seal the bottle. These are very cheap. I also buy in small bottles as others because this stuff goes a long ways. I do tend to buy the generic brands carried in the hobby shops as I just have not seen the difference in performance in HO trains. Now, if I was building a R/C Plane which sees much more stress, I would be more selective in the adhesive I use. I have also used the stuff found in Wal-Mart and Home Depot and see not difference. The real key is in the skills of the person applying the ACC unless of course you are attaching "engineered plastics" which is another subject all together. Allen Cain
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Re: ACC Applicators
thomasmclae
I put a drop in a piece of wood (Floor leftover) and use a toothpick for the transfer. The ACC jar stays fresh, and the glue gets where it goes.
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For grabs, I dip the part in the glue, then apply the part to the model. I use the same piece of wood when clearing by Faller glue bottle. I run a drop on the wood to make sure the glue is flowing, then apply glue to the modes/part. Makes for less surprises, such as when a big blob of glue squirts out. :) Thomas
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "pierreoliver2003" <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:
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Re: Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol. 19
Steve SANDIFER
My model placed in Kansas had lots of galvanized metal buildings - barns, grain elevators, etc. I paint the models with Floquil primer as a base and then use alcohol/India ink washes to get the aged look. It works well. That may be the trick for these cars. I don't know of any paint that out of the bottle looks right.
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---------------------------------------------------------------- J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer mailto:steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net Home: 12027 Mulholland Dr., Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918 Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417 Personal: http://www.geocities.com/stevesandifer2000/index Church: http://www.swcentral.org
----- Original Message -----
From: barrybennetttoo To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 5:48 AM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol. 19 Having used so-called 'galvanising paint' in the past I can state that the stuff I used was a light metallic grey colour. I distinctly remember thinking to myself at the first time I used it 'this looks nothing like galvanised metal'. The colour, when it dried, was a shade or two darker than the typical colour we use for covered hoppers. In my minds eye I see a 3/4 photo of a covered hopper in young Mr Hawkins articles in Railmodel Journal which was described as being of a similar shade to that which I remeber. Barry Bennett Coventry, England. -------Original Message------- From: Ed Hawkins Date: 08/10/2009 05:18:58 To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol. 19 On Oct 7, 2009, at 11:14 PM, Anthony Thompson wrote: > Mark Feddersen wrote: > > Speaking of war emergency boxcars, does anybody know why > > Intermountain chose to paint the roof of their C&NW version gray? As > > far as I know they were the same box car red as the rest of the car > > and the Viking roofs were not galvanized. Can anybody shed some > > light on this or is this another Intermountain goof? > > I have no idea what color those C&NW roofs may have been, but > I'd sure be surprised if the Viking roofing was not galvanized. That > had been essentially standard since the 1920s and was extensively used > even before WW I. Mark and Tony, The Viking roofs on the CNW emergency box cars were indeed galvanized. Also, I believe InterMountain made a good decision on the roof color based on available data (see below). InterMountain could have gone the easier route and painted the roof the same as the rest of the body. That would have eliminated a masking step and saved cost. Instead, IM masked the car so that the roof could be painted what is thought to be a legitimate color based on interpretation of source data by multiple people, including noted CNW freight car historian Jeff Koeller. I have the original bill of materials for the CNW cars built by Pullman-Standard having the Viking roofs. I scanned and sent a copy of the paint specs to both InterMountain and Jeff so they had actual documentation from which to base a decision. In the paint specifications it designates the outside of the roof and running boards as being painted with two coats of Sherwin-Williams #21572 or equal Galvanized Roof Paint. Naturally, the discussion then led to "OK, now what color is "galvanized roof paint?" Ultimately it was decided that the color should be a shade of gray somewhat matching that of the galvanized roof itself. Everyone is free to debate the conclusion, but the decision was made with a great deal of thought. The sides, ends, and trucks of the cars received CNW #1 paint "redish-brown in color." Underframes were coated with black car cement. White stencils. I have been known to criticize some of InterMountain's models when think the criticism is valid and deserved, In this case, IF a mistake in the roof color was made, I wouldn't characterize it "another InterMountain goof" since a great deal of discussion and thought went into the decision. The Viking Roof specification in Pullman-Standard lot no. 5752 called for roof sheets #16 U.S. Ga. C.B. Galvanized. Standard Railway Equipment Manufacturing Co. drawing 7R-2650-C. The P-S drawing list gives the general arrangement drawing no. 58215-C. It's quite possible this drawing is in the Pullman collection at the Illinois Railway Museum. At the same time AC&F built emergency box cars for CNW (and one car for CMO), and the bill of materials for the galvanized Murphy roofs on these cars specified them as unpainted. Hope this helps. Regards, Ed Hawkins
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Re: Interesting book available for download
Steve SANDIFER
Thanks for the reference. I downloaded the whole book by hitting the download button. Nice reference.
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---------------------------------------------------------------- J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer mailto:steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net Home: 12027 Mulholland Dr., Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918 Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417 Personal: http://www.geocities.com/stevesandifer2000/index Church: http://www.swcentral.org
----- Original Message -----
From: asychis@aol.com To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 9:39 AM Subject: [STMFC] Re: Interesting book available for download Same for me, I am in Texas (well, maybe that's the problem!), but there is no read button. Jerry Michels
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CNW Emergency Galvanized Viking Roofs (was) RP CYC Vol. 19
Ed Hawkins
On Oct 8, 2009, at 8:50 AM, Tim O'Connor wrote:
My question now is, how common was the use of "galvanizing paint" vsTim, As I indicated in my original reply, the roof Viking roof sheets were made of galvanized 16 ga. steel. In looking at hundreds of bills of materials from AC&F and Pullman, it's evident that the use of galvanized roof paint on a galvanized roof was an uncommon practice. Unpainted galvanized roofs were much more common. Interestingly, Viking roofs used on CNW box cars (CNW 72000-72998 even and 73000-74398 even) built by AC&F one year earlier in 1942 were painted the same color as the sides and ends. Regards, Ed Hawkins
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Re: Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol. 19
Galvanized metal is very shiny when new, but quickly oxidizes to a
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light gray, then darker gray as it ages. I have not seen the Intermountain model but it sounds like they tried to replicate the paint you describe. My question now is, how common was the use of "galvanizing paint" vs unpainted galvanized metal? And does the use of the paint imply that the roof was not actually galvanized, but was only painted that way? Tim O'Connor
Having used so-called 'galvanising paint' in the past I can state that the
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Re: Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol. 19
I have a color photo of a C&NW Viking roofed box car and it
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appears that the roof was unpainted galvanized metal but has gradually oxidized (rusted). There appears to be no paint on the APEX running board either (CNW #77866). The "seam caps" have the same appearance as the rest of the roof, partially oxidized, so this makes me think they were initially also not painted. By contrast, many other roofs show painted seam caps that contrast with the unpainted roof panels. For some reason, finding overhead shots of Viking roof cars in color has been difficult! Tim O'Connor
Mark and Tony,
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Re: Interesting book available for download
Derrick Brashear <shadow@...>
The terms and conditions don't appear to preclude me from putting a copy up, so:
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http://www.dementia.org/~shadow/Popular_picture_and_plan_book_of_railroa.pdf Enjoy. Derrick
On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 6:35 PM, Aley, Jeff A <Jeff.A.Aley@intel.com> wrote:
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