Date   

Re: Railroad Car Squeezer

Tim O'Connor
 

Hmmmm. Great Northern had a device at Minot that basically was a
drop-down gate that was at the level of a flat car deck .. then a
loaded flat car was pushed into the gate, which shoved the shifted
load of lumber back into a neat arrangement. I wouldn't call it a
squeezer but...

Tim O'Connor

While I have an idea that this is an apparatus for packing freight into a box car, can anyone tell me exactly what a "railroad car squeezer" is?
Thanks.
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Re: ACC Applicators

Jared Harper
 

I am not at home now so cannot check the brand, but the CA I purchased at the Cincinnati NMRA convention is still going strong. I purchased two regular and one thick in a tube. The first of the regular containers is about half full and still going strong. The other container of regular is in the frig. waiting for the first tube to run out.
Jared Harper
Athens, GA

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Denny Anspach <danspach@...> wrote:

This is a copy of my reply to the same inquiry made recently on the
Passenger Car List:

Three lessons from life about the useful application of ACC from tubes:

1) When puncturing the tube opening, avoid any inadvertent squeezing
of the tube so that the contents are not under pressure to pour out.

2) *Never (ever!) allow these tubes to rest in any other position but
UPRIGHT (I keep square styrofoam scraps with V-shaped cuts in the
middle designed to hold these tubes)*.

These simple two directives above will result of having a tube of ACC
that- a) can last usable for months on end; and b) has a tip free
of any clogging.

3) Do not apply glue directly from tube, but only into a tiny
intermediate puddle (Westerfield technique) from which actual
application is made by needle or similar. Even then, let the glue flow
from the tip without squeezing the tube except perhaps with
imperceptible pressure at the very bottom.

Instead of glass for puddling, I use small squares of aluminum foil
reinforced by folding the edges. I puddle the very tiniest drop, and
I use steel sewing needle applicators in holders (superior!), rather
than pins. I keep an old razor blade handy to constantly "peel" off
any dried ACC on the applicator tip.

I purchase Asian-produced ACC tubes in bulk at flea markets for about
@ $0.15, and have been doing so for some years. Occasionally, I get a
dry tube, or a tube of ACC that sets so fast one does not have time to
work it, but on balance this stuff does exactly what I want and expect
it to do at very little cost. My current tube was opened for use this
past May, and the tube, the applicator, and the glue remain quite
usable.

Denny


Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento


Re: Bob Smith Industries

Jared Harper
 

When not using my CA for awhile I put it in a plastic bag with a desicant pack and store it in the frig.
Jared Harper
Athens, GA

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

I just logged on to BSI to remind myself of their offerings which are extensive. They have a new 3/4 oz. container with a built-in pin to help keep the nozzle clear and open, which looks good to me.

I usually use small tubes purchased in bubble packs of 6-1o tubes at some place like Home Depot where the stock turns over.

I like these tubes as I can use on up easily before the contents go bad. I use the little "frosted" plastic bags that the detail parts come in as pallets and an insect pin to pick up the glue to transfer to the joint.

I am going to try some of the BSI offerings.

"Lock-Tight" is another brand to investigate. I have had good experience with their shelf lifes.

Bill Welch


Re: ACC Applicators

Jared Harper
 

I purchased some CA from a vendor at the Cincinnati NMRA trade show. He advised to rub vaseline on the tip of the applicator and to always keep the bottle upright.
Jared Harper
Athens, GA

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote:

I'm with those who don't like the applicator tubes and prefer
using a pin as an applicator. I've been impressed with the Bob Smith
Industries CA packaging, with a tip which doesn't ever seem to clog,
though it's too large to use as an applicator by itself.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Railroad Car Squeezer

Paul <buygone@...>
 

Bob:



The retarders in a hump yard were referred to as the car squeezer.



Paul C. Koehler



_____

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
C
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 1:44 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Railroad Car Squeezer





While I have an idea that this is an apparatus for packing freight into a
box car, can anyone tell me exactly what a "railroad car squeezer" is?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Railroad Car Squeezer

Bob C <thecitrusbelt@...>
 

While I have an idea that this is an apparatus for packing freight into a box car, can anyone tell me exactly what a "railroad car squeezer" is?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


ATSF gondolas fitted with roofs

David North <davenorth@...>
 

Would anyone have or know where I can find, photos and/or folio diagrams of
the following Santa Fe 2, 3 & 4 bay hoppers that were fitted with roofs in
1945.

I have some pics from the Santa Fe Open Top Cars Book by Richard
Hendrickson.



Ga-21 Triple Hopper (181000-181074)

50 cars equipped with roof in 1945



Ga-24 Quad Hopper (181075-181149)

All cars equipped with roof in 1945



Ga-43 Triple Hopper (181150-181199)

All cars equipped with roof in 1945



Ga-54 Twin Hopper (180800-180999)

45 cars equipped with roof in 1945



Thanks in advance

Dave North


Re: The most common Offset Twin

Tim O'Connor
 

Armand Premo wrote

Another Offset hopper really doesn't bother me. The question I
would raise is this really the most common hopper type yet to
be produced? Armand Premo
Well, if Kadee were to produce a USRA hopper, both original and
rebuilt panel side, that might be more numerous than any one of
the myriad twin offset hoppers. I only mention it because there is
no accurate "high fidelity" version of the USRA hopper in HO. (The
Tichy model fails the accuracy test, while Accurail's model has fat
grabs etc.)

Tim O'Connor


Re: Interesting book available for download

cornbeltroute <cornbeltroute@...>
 

Charlie,

Wonderful resource you linked, I enjoyed perusing all 292 pages. Thank you much for presenting it here.

I have Lucas's "100 Year of Classic Steam Locomotives" but do not know about the other two Lucas titles you mentioned. Would you characterize them, please? Do they contain drawings?

Thanks much,

Brian

Brian Chapman
Evansdale, Iowa

This is a Walter Lucas book that I did not have in my Library (three other titles by him that I do have are 100 Years of Classic Steam Locomotives, Locomotives and Cars Since 1900, and 100 Years of Railroad Cars). <
Free pdf download from Google books: http://www.google.com/books?id=ryhSAAAAMAAJ <


Re: The most common Offset Twin

Tim O'Connor
 

Years ago, Overland imported several of the C&O cars, plus a
C&O triple, in HO scale.

At 10/9/2009 07:15 AM Friday, you wrote:
I think everyone in HO is envious and wishes Rich did cars in that scale,
too. His C&O cars are beautiful, as are all his PRR models.

Elden Gatwood


Re: ACC Applicators

frograbbit602
 

I put three to four drops of ACC in a bottle cap (from bottled water) that sits in a piece of foam to hold it at an angle so the ACC collects at the bottom of the angled side. The tip of the ACC bottle is then wiped clean and cap put back on. Tip always stays clean. ACC is applied from bottle cap with a the eye of a needle that was cut in half to form a wye and inserted in a wood dowel. A tool like this is available from MicroMark if you choose not to make your own. When the eye of the needle clogs I use a disposable lighter to burn any accumulation off. Since the needle is stainless steel no harm is done ( does blacken ) to the needle tip. The burn method with lighter faster (takes seconds ) rather than using Acetone to clean it which is what I used prior to hearing about using the lighter.

Lester Breuer

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "RichardS" <rstern1@...> wrote:

I would like to hear what others are using for applicator tips for ACC glue bottles.

How do you keep them from clogging?

How do you clean them out when clogged?

In particular, I have been using some applicators that fit onto the bottle top. They have a metal tube that is quite small -- I only use them for the thin liquid ACC. They are great for this purpose, giving very good control of the thin glue that tends to run otherwise.

Nevertheless, they clog after a few uses and I haven't figured out any way to clean them out -- I don't have any wire or drills small enough to fit into the tiny tubes and ACC debonder doesn't seem to work.

Thanks
Rick Stern


Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced

golden1014
 

Thanks Tim--that's reassuring. I'm looking at this release with optimism. NYC offset hoppers were seen in the south and all over the midwest and I'll certainly have a few for my layout.

John

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

John, Ed Hawkins previously posted that 867000-867999 match
the Kadee model.

Tim O'Connor


Here's an interesting announcement (scroll to bottom): Kadee offset hoppers in NYC.
http://www.kadee.com/ca/preorder.htm
I'm not familiar with the detail idiosyncrasies of the NYC prototypes versus the stock Kadee model, but I'll probably be a customer regardless.
John


Re: Sunshine X 29b Kit - oversize door

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Nice job, Tom! Your advice to those that have the early Sunshine kit is
right on.

I would also add that in the earlier Sunshine kit based on the C&BT kit, one
has to widen the door with styrene strips, and also add additional height to
the door, which does make the door proper dimensions, but the door is still
not the best rendition of that particular 7' Youngstown door, and the sides
have overly large rivets. Even so, it makes up into a nice model, and the
side sills and underframe provide the proper look and that odd X29 truck
spacing that characterizes these cars.

The bash I did with the Branchline car produces a superior X29B, as the BL
car is simply beautiful. Sides, doors, ends and roof are all excellent
renditions of those components. I have set aside a number of BL kits for
these X29 bashes.

The X29D will require more work, and I am mystified as to why no one has done
this model as a resin kit. It would be useful to many, many modelers, and
was quite numerous. Still, I plan to bash the BL 8'-door kit, but I will
have to create an underframe and side sill master, which will be a lot of
work, and also bash an overhanging diagonal panel roof. The late IDE ends
from BL are perfect.

The later X29 rebuilds (X29E, X29F, X29G) will have to wait until someone
either finds a prototype sitting in someone's yard, who can then look at the
underframe, or someone finds the drawings in the archives; the late rebuilds
had highly modified underframes, with, I suspect, both added and relocated
cross-bearers. Rich Burg, Ian Fischer, and Greg Martin have all talked to me
about these cars, and I think we need to do good research so those that
pursue them can do them right. Since these cars also had side sills that
mated to the side using extended interior side posts, both the side sills and
underframe will all require a new master.

No, none of the plastic cars lettered X29B, X29D, X29F, or X29G are even
close. Back when I was young I bought several of these.

All these X29 rebuilds are beautiful cars, and deserve to be offered to the
modeling population. They are one of those groups of cars that strangely,
remain undone in any form. If any of you have "pull" with the resin guys,
let us know!

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
tmolsen@UDel.Edu
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 5:08 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Sunshine X 29b Kit - oversize door



Tony,

I received an email from Al Buchan, the president of the PRRT&HS wanting to
know what was the story regarding the door size of the Sunshine X29b that had
just come out. He had received an email from a Society member stating that
the member thought the door was too wide. This car had been announced many
years before and was a hot item with the PRR modeling crowd.

Since I had previously (for ten years) been the HO modeling editor for The
Keystone, he asked me to check it out. This is how it went down.

The real Youngstown door as used on the X29b is 7'4-5/8" wide with the center
framed panel portion 7' wide. The door opening on the car is 7'. On the left
or lock side, the door extension measures 2'-5/16" outside of the center
framed 7' panel. This extension slides behind the front stop to form the
weather seal on that side. The right side of the door, the door extension
measuring the same has a rear weather seal which engages the post strip on
the car body.

The model door is 8' overall including the door extensions. This means that
the door is 5-3/8" too wide. Frank Hodina did the masters for this kit. He
apparently used the master he made for the EJ&E Mini-Kit door when he made
the master for the X29b car side. He apparently took a casting from the
original 8' master and glued it in place on the X29b carbody master butting
it up against the front stop, failing to allow for the fact that the door
extension would normally be hidden from view. So the entire door including
the door extensions are in view. This is what called attention to the fact
that the door is too wide.

To determine how the door was too wide, I measured doors on the following
models:

The original Uni-Body X29b kit which utilized the C&BT car body and doors.

A Branchline #BRA-1600 series kit with 7' doors.

the EJ&E Mini-Kit with the separate 8' Doors.

The C&BT car doors are undersize (6'10" wide including the door extensions).

The Branchline 7' doors are the correct size as matched to the prototype.

The EJ&E 8' Doors are also correct in size to the prototype.

References used to match the doors were the 1946 and 1949/1951 Car Builders
Cyclopedias.

I have experimented with replacing the front door stop by substituting a
piece of evergreen strip that is thinner than that of the cast door stop
(salvaging the camel lock fixture on the door stop for use after making
modifications). I was not happy with this and still have to fiddle some more
to see if I can reduce the door extension which should be partially hidden.
Unfortunately, you would still have the opposite side to reduce and that is a
problem as it is exposed on the prototype door.

That pretty much sums up the problems with the X29b kit from Sunshine Models.
I presented my findings to the PRRT&HS modeling committee and Martin Lofton.
Martin did not think that the door was not oversize enough to cause a problem
and that he was not going to revise the kit as it would take a new set of
masters to do so. I did not and have not talked with Frank in regard to the
door problem. In any event, it would not have mattered as it was already too
late to do so.

To avoid future errors, Martin advised me that he would be willing to consult
with the committee on other models in the future. My recommendation to the
committee was not to review the kit in the Keystone Modeler and pillory
Martin as it would be counter-productive as the car was already out and had
been sold to a large number of modelers by then. We did not want to
discourage Martin from doing other PRR kits. The modeling committee concurred
and that was it.

In summarizing events that took place almost a year ago, Greg may have
overstated the door dimensions a little bit, but basically he was correct as
I addressed much of this to him and to Bruce Smith at the time.

End of story!

For those who have the Unibody kits, substitute the Branchline carbody from
Kit #BRA-1600 with the 7' door in place of the C&BT body and follow the kit
instructions from there!

Regards,

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark. Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292 (H)
(302) 740-2897 (Cell)
tmolsen@udel.edu <mailto:tmolsen%40udel.edu>


Re: Sunshine X 29b Kit - oversize door

Dennis Williams
 

I enjoy my kit any way!!
  Dennis

--- On Fri, 10/9/09, tmolsen@UDel.Edu <tmolsen@UDel.Edu> wrote:


From: tmolsen@UDel.Edu <tmolsen@UDel.Edu>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Sunshine X 29b Kit - oversize door
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, October 9, 2009, 2:07 AM


 



Tony,

I received an email from Al Buchan, the president of the PRRT&HS wanting to know what was the story regarding the door size of the Sunshine X29b that had just come out. He had received an email from a Society member stating that the member thought the door was too wide. This car had been announced many years before and was a hot item with the PRR modeling crowd.

Since I had previously (for ten years) been the HO modeling editor for The Keystone, he asked me to check it out. This is how it went down.

The real Youngstown door as used on the X29b is 7'4-5/8" wide with the center framed panel portion 7' wide. The door opening on the car is 7'. On the left or lock side, the door extension measures 2'-5/16" outside of the center framed 7' panel. This extension slides behind the front stop to form the weather seal on that side. The right side of the door, the door extension measuring the same has a rear weather seal which engages the post strip on the car body.

The model door is 8' overall including the door extensions. This means that the door is 5-3/8" too wide. Frank Hodina did the masters for this kit. He apparently used the master he made for the EJ&E Mini-Kit door when he made the master for the X29b car side. He apparently took a casting from the original 8' master and glued it in place on the X29b carbody master butting it up against the front stop, failing to allow for the fact that the door extension would normally be hidden from view. So the entire door including the door extensions are in view. This is what called attention to the fact that the door is too wide.

To determine how the door was too wide, I measured doors on the following models:

The original Uni-Body X29b kit which utilized the C&BT car body and doors.

A Branchline #BRA-1600 series kit with 7' doors.

the EJ&E Mini-Kit with the separate 8' Doors.

The C&BT car doors are undersize (6'10" wide including the door extensions).

The Branchline 7' doors are the correct size as matched to the prototype.

The EJ&E 8' Doors are also correct in size to the prototype.

References used to match the doors were the 1946 and 1949/1951 Car Builders Cyclopedias.

I have experimented with replacing the front door stop by substituting a piece of evergreen strip that is thinner than that of the cast door stop (salvaging the camel lock fixture on the door stop for use after making modifications) . I was not happy with this and still have to fiddle some more to see if I can reduce the door extension which should be partially hidden. Unfortunately, you would still have the opposite side to reduce and that is a problem as it is exposed on the prototype door.

That pretty much sums up the problems with the X29b kit from Sunshine Models. I presented my findings to the PRRT&HS modeling committee and Martin Lofton. Martin did not think that the door was not oversize enough to cause a problem and that he was not going to revise the kit as it would take a new set of masters to do so. I did not and have not talked with Frank in regard to the door problem. In any event, it would not have mattered as it was already too late to do so.

To avoid future errors, Martin advised me that he would be willing to consult with the committee on other models in the future. My recommendation to the committee was not to review the kit in the Keystone Modeler and pillory Martin as it would be counter-productive as the car was already out and had been sold to a large number of modelers by then. We did not want to discourage Martin from doing other PRR kits. The modeling committee concurred and that was it.

In summarizing events that took place almost a year ago, Greg may have overstated the door dimensions a little bit, but basically he was correct as I addressed much of this to him and to Bruce Smith at the time.

End of story!

For those who have the Unibody kits, substitute the Branchline carbody from Kit #BRA-1600 with the 7' door in place of the C&BT body and follow the kit instructions from there!

Regards,

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark. Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292 (H)
(302) 740-2897 (Cell)
tmolsen@udel. edu


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: The most common Offset Twin

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

I think everyone in HO is envious and wishes Rich did cars in that scale,
too. His C&O cars are beautiful, as are all his PRR models.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
mforsyth127
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 12:49 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: The most common Offset Twin



<elden.j.gatwood@...> wrote:

I thought it was the AAR alternate standard car, which has never been
done by anyone, has it?
Indeed they have been done, and in multiples...just NOT in a "popular" scale.
Rich Yoder of Rich Yoder models

http://www.richyodermodels.com/ <http://www.richyodermodels.com/>;

has done several variations of the AAR Alt. Std., especially the many C&O
variants...

Matt Forsyth

Modeling the D&H Penn Division/
Erie Jefferson Divison in "O" Scale,
Fall, 1951


Re: The most common Offset Twin

Armand Premo
 

Another Offset hopper really doesn't bother me.The question I would raise is this really the most common hopper type yet to be produced? Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Hawkins
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] The most common Offset Twin



On Oct 8, 2009, at 2:39 PM, Gatwood, Elden J SAD wrote:

> L&N, C&O and many others
> had many thousands of that AAR alt std car, too, didn't they?

Elden,
C&O had some 27,400 alternate standard cars with many variations of end
arrangements. L&N had zero alternate standard cars.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins








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Re: Sunshine X 29b Kit - oversize door

tmolsen@...
 

Tony,

I received an email from Al Buchan, the president of the PRRT&HS wanting to know what was the story regarding the door size of the Sunshine X29b that had just come out. He had received an email from a Society member stating that the member thought the door was too wide. This car had been announced many years before and was a hot item with the PRR modeling crowd.

Since I had previously (for ten years) been the HO modeling editor for The Keystone, he asked me to check it out. This is how it went down.

The real Youngstown door as used on the X29b is 7'4-5/8" wide with the center framed panel portion 7' wide. The door opening on the car is 7'. On the left or lock side, the door extension measures 2'-5/16" outside of the center framed 7' panel. This extension slides behind the front stop to form the weather seal on that side. The right side of the door, the door extension measuring the same has a rear weather seal which engages the post strip on the car body.

The model door is 8' overall including the door extensions. This means that the door is 5-3/8" too wide. Frank Hodina did the masters for this kit. He apparently used the master he made for the EJ&E Mini-Kit door when he made the master for the X29b car side. He apparently took a casting from the original 8' master and glued it in place on the X29b carbody master butting it up against the front stop, failing to allow for the fact that the door extension would normally be hidden from view. So the entire door including the door extensions are in view. This is what called attention to the fact that the door is too wide.

To determine how the door was too wide, I measured doors on the following models:

The original Uni-Body X29b kit which utilized the C&BT car body and doors.

A Branchline #BRA-1600 series kit with 7' doors.

the EJ&E Mini-Kit with the separate 8' Doors.

The C&BT car doors are undersize (6'10" wide including the door extensions).

The Branchline 7' doors are the correct size as matched to the prototype.

The EJ&E 8' Doors are also correct in size to the prototype.

References used to match the doors were the 1946 and 1949/1951 Car Builders Cyclopedias.

I have experimented with replacing the front door stop by substituting a piece of evergreen strip that is thinner than that of the cast door stop (salvaging the camel lock fixture on the door stop for use after making modifications). I was not happy with this and still have to fiddle some more to see if I can reduce the door extension which should be partially hidden. Unfortunately, you would still have the opposite side to reduce and that is a problem as it is exposed on the prototype door.

That pretty much sums up the problems with the X29b kit from Sunshine Models. I presented my findings to the PRRT&HS modeling committee and Martin Lofton. Martin did not think that the door was not oversize enough to cause a problem and that he was not going to revise the kit as it would take a new set of masters to do so. I did not and have not talked with Frank in regard to the door problem. In any event, it would not have mattered as it was already too late to do so.

To avoid future errors, Martin advised me that he would be willing to consult with the committee on other models in the future. My recommendation to the committee was not to review the kit in the Keystone Modeler and pillory Martin as it would be counter-productive as the car was already out and had been sold to a large number of modelers by then. We did not want to discourage Martin from doing other PRR kits. The modeling committee concurred and that was it.

In summarizing events that took place almost a year ago, Greg may have overstated the door dimensions a little bit, but basically he was correct as I addressed much of this to him and to Bruce Smith at the time.

End of story!

For those who have the Unibody kits, substitute the Branchline carbody from Kit #BRA-1600 with the 7' door in place of the C&BT body and follow the kit instructions from there!

Regards,

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark. Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292 (H)
(302) 740-2897 (Cell)
tmolsen@udel.edu


Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced

David Sieber
 

Gentlemen,
Make it vote #4 for the AAR alternate standard hopper - but please (1) in NP, GN, etc., and (2) with wire grabs and other state-of-the-art details. No one has done this very common coal hopper (although Sunshine has resin conversion minikits) which is essential for modelers of the Pacific Northwest, the C&O, et al. Not that we don't appreciate more, more-accurately detailed models of similar versions of the AAR standard hopper, but . . .
Dave Sieber
Reno NV

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Brock" <brockm@...> wrote:

Schuyler Larrabee says about the alternative standard:


Vote No. 2.

Vote No. 3.

I have a video showing two such C&O cars in a train on the UP in the
Whasatch Mtns in Utah. To get there from the east you have to go up that
Hill...Lee? Johnston? Beauregard? Custer? Davis? JEB Stuart? Anyhow...

I actually just get tired of seeing those AAR Standard C&O hoppers on
layouts. Yuk.

Mike Brock


Re: The most common Offset Twin

mforsyth127
 

<elden.j.gatwood@...> wrote:

I thought it was the AAR alternate standard
car, which has never been done by anyone, has it?
Indeed they have been done, and in multiples...just NOT in a "popular" scale. Rich Yoder of Rich Yoder models

http://www.richyodermodels.com/

has done several variations of the AAR Alt. Std., especially the many C&O variants...

Matt Forsyth

Modeling the D&H Penn Division/
Erie Jefferson Divison in "O" Scale,
Fall, 1951


Re: Kadee NYC Hoppers Announced

Mike Brock <brockm@...>
 

Schuyler Larrabee says about the alternative standard:


Vote No. 2.

Vote No. 3.

I have a video showing two such C&O cars in a train on the UP in the Whasatch Mtns in Utah. To get there from the east you have to go up that Hill...Lee? Johnston? Beauregard? Custer? Davis? JEB Stuart? Anyhow...

I actually just get tired of seeing those AAR Standard C&O hoppers on layouts. Yuk.

Mike Brock

95821 - 95840 of 181060