Date   

New file uploaded to STMFC

STMFC@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the STMFC
group.

File : /gn wp station log bieber /bieber-1947-oct-dec-800-900.txt
Uploaded by : allen_282 <allen_282@...>
Description : freight cars thru bieber ca 1947 oct dec *800 *900

You can access this file at the URL:
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To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Regards,

allen_282 <allen_282@...>


New file uploaded to STMFC

STMFC@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the STMFC
group.

File : /gn wp station log bieber /bieber-1947-oct-dec-600-700.txt
Uploaded by : allen_282 <allen_282@...>
Description : freight cars thru bieber ca 1947 oct dec *600 *700

You can access this file at the URL:
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To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Regards,

allen_282 <allen_282@...>


Re: Sunshine XM-1

mcindoefalls
 

Yes, I believe it's the former Yankee Clipper kit.

I believe F&C makes a kit for this. Their number 6005.

Jim Fellows
----- Original Message -----
From: pierreoliver2003
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Sunshine XM-1



Does anyone know if Martin is planning on releasing a model of the B&M XM-1 with the "Reverse Creco" door?
Pierre Oliver







Re: Painting Trucks

kenneth broomfield
 

What Kind of chemical paint "stripper" is best?
 
Kenny Broomfield

--- On Wed, 11/11/09, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Painting Trucks
To: STMFC@...
Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 10:23 PM


 



Ken

Yes, we use paint stripper to strip entire models. Grit blasting
puts an "etch" on slippery plastics that make them far easier to
paint. Chemical stripping is intended to be harmless to the plastic
including not etching it. Grit blasting transforms shiny metal
etched running boards into beautifully "galvanized" pieces of metal.
It can be used very selectively on small areas of a finished model.
And it can thoroughly remove stubborn bits of paint on delicate
parts that remain after chemical stripping. It's an invaluable tool
as Richard said.

Tim O'Connor

At 11/11/2009 10:09 PM Wednesday, you wrote:
Why is this grit blasting superior to say some kind of paint stripper? Also, what kind of paint stripper works best for taking a model all the way down to bare plastic or brass?
Â
Kenny Broomfield










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Painting Trucks

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

I agree Denny. Some sort of "vinyl" is used in armor kits for rubber tires and tank tracks and many people have trouble painting them because they must flex to be installed. I did at first as well until I learned to simply give the parts a good scrubbing with dish detergent and an old toothbrush, a good scrubbing rinse, and an air dry. (I do this to the entire model actually.) Only once did I still have a problem. In that case, I washed and scrubbed off the paint, wiped the parts thoroughly with mineral spirits, then re-did the wash cycle. To be extry sure, I used an enamel base color coat rather than my usual acrylic (I never use primer.) No problemo.

KL

----- Original Message -----
From: Denny Anspach

Much of the engineering plastic that we paint are in small parts with
relatively high relief and with small surfaces, i.e. truck frames; and
although the paint probably probably does not undergo true surface
adherence, the dried paint film does seem to have enough mechanical
grip on and about the interstices and projections of the detailing
that peeling paint is simply not a problem.


Re: 8-hatch reefers

Kenneth Montero
 

Gene,

It will prove to be an interesting adventure when you do. I got some interesting surprises when I did so.

Ken Montero

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene" <bierglaeser@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 6:10:22 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [STMFC] Re: 8-hatch reefers






Ken,
I don't recall the Madewell name. Perhaps I was inattentive but, as I said, the model is packed for moving. I had a habit of saving kit instructions and "filing" (or piling?) them together. Haven't come across that stack so far in the moving process and I really can't remember how I saved them or where. Wish I could dig them out and see which names are on my various Northeastern and Ambroid kit instructions.
Gene Green

--- In STMFC@... , va661midlo@... wrote:

Gene,

I have a blue box Ambroid kit no. K-14 is a "C.P (Canadian Pacific) 8-Hat Reefer". The instructions say that the kit was designed and manufactured by Madewell Company, Inc., 15 Main Street, Waltham 54, Massachusetts. The instructions also give that firm as the source for spare parts, Is this name a predecessor or subsidiary of Ambroid or Northeastern (both of whom seemed to have had the same kit at different times)?

Ken Montero


----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene" <bierglaeser@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 10:04:56 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [STMFC] Re: 8-hatch reefers






There is an article in the June 1940 Ry Mechanical Engineer beginning on page 211 about CN refrigerator cars with overhead ice bunkers and 8 htches. These are all-steel, 4/5 square-corner Dreadnaught ends, hinged doors, Dalman trucks, and Ajax hand brakes. The CN built 100 with the first one completed in October 1939.

Way back when there was a Northeastern or Ambroid model of such a reefer as I now recall. I have one but it is packed for moving. My recollection is that the model had wood sides. Does anyone remember this model? Was it of a CN or CP prototype?

Gene Green
heading towards the badlands of New Mexico








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Mopac Gondolas

bflynnd1
 

Group,

After all of the talk on the list of gondolas, I wanted to let you know that the Missouri Pacific Historical Society has released it's fall issue of The Eagle. Of interest to this group is a 30 page article on MP gondolas built 1912 to 1960. Hobby shops that carry it and ordering information can be found on the MPHS website at www.mopac.org.

Brian Flynn
MPHS Archivist


Re: Sunshine XM-1

James Fellows
 

I believe F&C makes a kit f this. Their number 6005.

Jim Fellows

----- Original Message -----
From: pierreoliver2003
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Sunshine XM-1



Does anyone know if Martin is planning on releasing a model of the B&M XM-1 with the "Reverse Creco" door?
Pierre Oliver


Re: SP boxcar lettering

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Des Norman wrote:
Many thanks for the prompt reply. I'll make do with what you've given me as the Champ decal set doesn't have the trust info, etc.
Also be aware that when the car was repainted, SP would not have duplicated the builder data, and not always the trust data (after WW II they sometimes used a cast metal plate instead). Ted Culotta's Speedwitch decals for SP box cars do have a trust legend which could be used.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: 8-hatch reefers

Gene <bierglaeser@...>
 

Ken,
I don't recall the Madewell name. Perhaps I was inattentive but, as I said, the model is packed for moving. I had a habit of saving kit instructions and "filing" (or piling?) them together. Haven't come across that stack so far in the moving process and I really can't remember how I saved them or where. Wish I could dig them out and see which names are on my various Northeastern and Ambroid kit instructions.
Gene Green

--- In STMFC@..., va661midlo@... wrote:

Gene,

I have a blue box Ambroid kit no. K-14 is a "C.P (Canadian Pacific) 8-Hat Reefer". The instructions say that the kit was designed and manufactured by Madewell Company, Inc., 15 Main Street, Waltham 54, Massachusetts. The instructions also give that firm as the source for spare parts, Is this name a predecessor or subsidiary of Ambroid or Northeastern (both of whom seemed to have had the same kit at different times)?

Ken Montero


----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene" <bierglaeser@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 10:04:56 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [STMFC] Re: 8-hatch reefers






There is an article in the June 1940 Ry Mechanical Engineer beginning on page 211 about CN refrigerator cars with overhead ice bunkers and 8 htches. These are all-steel, 4/5 square-corner Dreadnaught ends, hinged doors, Dalman trucks, and Ajax hand brakes. The CN built 100 with the first one completed in October 1939.

Way back when there was a Northeastern or Ambroid model of such a reefer as I now recall. I have one but it is packed for moving. My recollection is that the model had wood sides. Does anyone remember this model? Was it of a CN or CP prototype?

Gene Green
heading towards the badlands of New Mexico




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: SP boxcar lettering

Des Norman
 

Tony,
Many thanks for the prompt reply. I'll make do with what you've given me as the Champ decal set doesn't have the trust info, etc.

Regards,
Des Norman

--- In STMFC@..., Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote:

Des Norman wrote:
However, there are some bits of text that I can't make out in the photo, so I'd be very grateful for some advice, please.

I've got the capacity, dimensions, New and Blt lettering, but what would be in the 2 blocks to the right of New, and also the extreme lower right?
Des, at extreme right is the repack data. Immediately to the right of "NEW" is the builder data; it says

BUILT BY
BETHLEHEM STEEL CO
JOHNSTOWN, PA

To the right of that, adjoining the door, is the equipment trust
information. I can relay it to you if you REALLY want to know what it says.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA


Re: SP boxcar lettering

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Des Norman wrote:
However, there are some bits of text that I can't make out in the photo,
so I'd be very grateful for some advice, please.

I've got the capacity, dimensions, New and Blt lettering, but what would
be in the 2 blocks to the right of New, and also the extreme lower right?
Des, at extreme right is the repack data. Immediately to the right of "NEW" is the builder data; it says

BUILT BY
BETHLEHEM STEEL CO
JOHNSTOWN, PA

To the right of that, adjoining the door, is the equipment trust information. I can relay it to you if you REALLY want to know what it says.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


SP boxcar lettering

Des Norman
 

Hi all,
I'm lettering a 1937 AAR 40ft boxcar. And I'm using the photo of SP 82765 in Ted Culotta's 'Steam era freight cars reference manual' vol.1 Page 159 as a guide.

However, there are some bits of text that I can't make out in the photo, so I'd be very grateful for some advice, please.

I've got the capacity, dimensions, New and Blt lettering, but what would be in the 2 blocks to the right of New, and also the extreme lower right?

Many thanks for any help anyone can give.

Regards,
Des Norman
Perth, Scotland


Re: Media Blasting

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

John;

I also like my blaster, but I just learned the hard way not to spend too much
time in one place on a resin kit.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of John
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 1:02 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Media Blasting



Gentlemen,

There are two factors with grit blasting. One is the media, the other is the
blast pressure. If you use 120 psi you're going to blast off everything in
sight. I grit-blast almost everything with fine blast media in the 60-80 psi
range. I even weather models with it. In my opinion, if your modeling
emphasis is freight car construction, a grit blaster is an indispensible
tool.

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gatwood,
Elden J SAD " <elden.j.gatwood@...> wrote:

Yes, I should have tried other means to remove that "paint".
Unfortunately, it adhered extremely well to certain portions, leaving
others bare. Repeated passes with the tool actually bagan to remove
the rivets in the center of the paint blobs, at which time I stopped.
Examination of the surfaces around the paint blobs showed considerable
erosion of the surface.

Simple surface etching for paint adhesion causes no problems.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf
Of jerryglow@...
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 9:00 AM
To: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Media Blasting



I probably would not use it for paint removal on resin but do
routinely hit the whole model prior to painting. Ted Culotta's
articles almost universally mention doing this regardless of the material
of the model.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gatwood, Elden J SAD "
<elden.j.gatwood@> wrote:

I would also avoid using media blasting using "grit", even the fine
stuff, on resin, without watching VERY closely what it is doing to
the surface. I tried to remove badly applied acrylic paint from a
Westy G22, and while the acrylic blobs gradually came off, the
surrounding unpainted resin was badly scoured and pitted.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:STMFC@...
<mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Bill Welch
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 10:34 PM
To: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Media Blasting



I think Dennis meant Harbor Freight instead of "Horrid Freight."

I have used baking soda in the summer in Virginia with good results.
I was using it outside. I liked it as it was cheap and easy to
control. It will not touch brass but I used vinegar to etch this.

Regarding using media blasting instead of paint stripper, I am not a
chemist but somehow I just think putting such a powerful chemical,
whatever it is, on styrene cannot be good for the styrene in the
long run. And let me tell, you do not want to use Chameleon paint
stripper with resin. You do not want to know how I know this.

Bill Welch


Re: Modeling LCL

np328
 

Several years ago, while looking for material on NP boxcar cabooses this following bit on LCL info came out.

Some background info: Carlton, MN is where two subs of NP lines cross; from Superior, WI to Staples, MN; and the Twin Ports /Twin Cities line. In Carlton, there was a small yard and a six mile branch to Cloquet, MN wyed off. All lines from the Twin Ports have climbed out of the Lake Superior watershed, however trains out of Carlton heading compass south or west can still use a help getting started as the steep climb has lessened, but it is uphill for a bit more.

NP Lake Superior Division F-27 No.13 records the destruction of caboose 1428 by fire on the morning of Jan. 8, 1945. The road switch crew went on duty at 4:00 AM in Carlton and in the cabooses stove a fire left by the night crew was still burning. The crew was involved in making up, and then pushing out the local way freights. Prior to pushing out the Third District local at 7:30 AM, they spotted the caboose at the depot so it might be loaded with express. Brakeman North tended to the fire in the cabooses stove and replenished it, as it had burnt down. The crew returning after pushing out of the local, brakemen LeVasseur and North assisted Clerk Baker in loading 44 parcels of express boxes. All men stated that the express was properly loaded and none of it closer than 4 feet from the stove. The caboose was then pushed down the third district main and a 35 car train for Cloquet assembled. The caboose being on fire was first noticed about 8:20 AM and efforts to extinguish the fire were of no use. The Carlton Fire dept. was summoned however fire equipment was found to be frozen. To prevent blocking the main track, the burning caboose was coupled onto and taken to the rip track where it was left to burn.
(Report of Jan 10, 1945 to J A Mercer)

At this time, there were several boxcars being converted to caboose duty. The last car of the lot, 1533 was then chosen to have this work done. This under NP AFE AFE 5064-44. IIRC correctly, 1533 ran in this duty into the early sixties. (There were two other sidedoor cabooses IIRC at this time in express use on the NP.)

On the NP Ollie branch out of Beach, ND, where express and passengers were carried in the caboose, I recall a letter from the crew asked if a partition might be put up to separate the express as peeping from chicks being delivered bothered passengers and crew alike. (Chicks – yesteryear's equivalent of cell phone annoyance.)

If side door cabooses are not your thing, there was also the NP trains between Bemidji and Brainerd, MN. These had cabooses on the front end and back end. A caboose was on the head end there "because of considerable switching and handling of LCL freight with these very long trains", that got shoved out of Bemidji by the yard switcher. (Letter, December 12th, 1939 - E H Jacobs, Superintendent, Minnesota & International)

Credit all above data to NP Rwy files found at the Minnesota Historical Society.
James Dick - St. Paul


Re: Media Blasting

golden1014
 

Gentlemen,

There are two factors with grit blasting. One is the media, the other is the blast pressure. If you use 120 psi you're going to blast off everything in sight. I grit-blast almost everything with fine blast media in the 60-80 psi range. I even weather models with it. In my opinion, if your modeling emphasis is freight car construction, a grit blaster is an indispensible tool.

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

--- In STMFC@..., "Gatwood, Elden J SAD " <elden.j.gatwood@...> wrote:

Yes, I should have tried other means to remove that "paint". Unfortunately,
it adhered extremely well to certain portions, leaving others bare. Repeated
passes with the tool actually bagan to remove the rivets in the center of the
paint blobs, at which time I stopped. Examination of the surfaces around the
paint blobs showed considerable erosion of the surface.

Simple surface etching for paint adhesion causes no problems.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
jerryglow@...
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 9:00 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Media Blasting



I probably would not use it for paint removal on resin but do routinely hit
the whole model prior to painting. Ted Culotta's articles almost universally
mention doing this regardless of the material of the model.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gatwood,
Elden J SAD " <elden.j.gatwood@> wrote:

I would also avoid using media blasting using "grit", even the fine
stuff, on resin, without watching VERY closely what it is doing to the
surface. I tried to remove badly applied acrylic paint from a Westy
G22, and while the acrylic blobs gradually came off, the surrounding
unpainted resin was badly scoured and pitted.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
Behalf Of Bill Welch
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 10:34 PM
To: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Media Blasting



I think Dennis meant Harbor Freight instead of "Horrid Freight."

I have used baking soda in the summer in Virginia with good results.
I was using it outside. I liked it as it was cheap and easy to
control. It will not touch brass but I used vinegar to etch this.

Regarding using media blasting instead of paint stripper, I am not a
chemist but somehow I just think putting such a powerful chemical,
whatever it is, on styrene cannot be good for the styrene in the long
run. And let me tell, you do not want to use Chameleon paint stripper
with resin. You do not want to know how I know this.

Bill Welch


Re: Media Blasting

pullmanboss <tgmadden@...>
 

Elden wrote:

Yes, I should have tried other means to remove that "paint". Unfortunately,
it adhered extremely well to certain portions, leaving others bare. Repeated
passes with the tool actually bagan to remove the rivets in the center of the
paint blobs, at which time I stopped. Examination of the surfaces around the
paint blobs showed considerable erosion of the surface.
Abrasive blasting doesn't work well on resilient materials. I'm not a metallurgist and am probably using the wrong words to describe properties, but take solder on brass. Solder is softer than brass, but both are rigid materials. Grit blasting will erode the solder much faster than the brass. But paint on resin is different - particularly pockets of thick, residual paint left after chemical stripping. The paint is softer than the resin, but it may be more resilient - recoiling under the pressure of the grit blast and rebounding to bounce the grit off rather than being abraded.

As I say, there must be better terms to describe the properties of the various materials and surfaces, but I hope you get the idea.....

Tom Madden


Re: Ambroid/Northeastern

rdgbuff56
 

Ed,
     I might be confused here.  I have a couple of the Ambroid cylindrical hoppers and they definely are in regular Ambroid boxes.  I think I know the tank car you are talking about and I can't recall the manufacturer at present but will find out.
     There was a Scale Craft Engineering that released an Ambroid/Northeastern/Quality Craft type TTX Finger Rack flat car.  They had one other release that doesn't come to mind but I have at least one.  I never attempted to build the two Finger Racks I have.  Someday maybe I'll substitute plastic for wood.
                                       
                                                            Francis A. Pehowic, Jr.
                                                            Sunbury, Pa.

--- On Thu, 11/12/09, ed_mines <ed_mines@...> wrote:

From: ed_mines <ed_mines@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Ambroid/Northeastern
To: STMFC@...
Date: Thursday, November 12, 2009, 5:08 PM







 









There was another manufacturer of Ambroid freight car kits - Scalecraft

(?).



They had kits for a cylindrical NYC covered hopper and a large tank car. Kits had many more soft metal castings than most of the Ambroid kits. Al lthe casting I saw warped.



Ed

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: AT&SF Lg-2

William Keene <wakeene@...>
 

Hello Group,

This same photo is reproduced on page 100 of the recently released
SANTA FE OPEN-TOP CARS: FLAT, GONDOLA, AND HOPPER CARS 1902-1959, by
Richard Hendrickson.

The Lg-2 logging cars were constructed from Ga-8 class 50-foot mill
gondolas (1920 vintage).

I recommend this book for anyone interested in these open-top car
types of the Santa Fe. It well done, very informative, and a very good
addition to the Santa Fe Railway Rolling Stock Reference Series.

Bill Keene
Irvine, CA


On Nov 11, 2009, at 9:04 PM, Schuyler Larrabee wrote:

Wouldn't be my guess, the angle/channel structure looks like it was
all made at the same time..

SGL

Interesting side frame. By any chance is that cut down from a War
Emergency gondola?

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
wrote:

And now, for something completely different -- This is a first
for me, I've never heard of a Santa Fe log (Lg) flat before.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130342642018
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130342642018>

Tim O'Connor
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.508)
Database version: 6.13680
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Ambroid/Northeastern

ed_mines
 

There was another manufacturer of Ambroid freight car kits - Scalecraft
(?).

They had kits for a cylindrical NYC covered hopper and a large tank car. Kits had many more soft metal castings than most of the Ambroid kits. Al lthe casting I saw warped.

Ed

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