Date   

Re: Box Car details questions

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

All;

I am sorry, I should have this committed to memory by now, but could any of
you help out and tell me:


a) At what date did the R/3/4 IDE change from rolling pin taper to late
taper?

b) At what date was the overhanging diagonal panel roof introduced, in the
40-foot variety?

c) At what date were the RRs told to lower the tack boards? Did the date
differ as far as sides and ends, or both at the same time? Is there reason
you can think of that a RR would rebuild a car and put those on the ends high
(yes, new ends), and those on the (new) door low?

Thanks for your insights,

Elden Gatwood


Re: Is Tenax 7R Gone?

Allen Cain <allencain@...>
 

I forget, isn't this just MEK or something like that?



Allen Cain


Re: Painting Resin Freight Car Kits

Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...>
 

Hello Paul,

I wash finished resin models in tap water with Ivory liquid dish soap (no lotions or other sources of residue), let them air dry, and airbrush them with Floquil Polly Scale acrylic paint. In general I don't use a primer except for the lighter colors. For orange or yellow reefers, for example, I first apply a coat of Polly Scale Undercoat Light Gray. It's easier to get an even coat of the lighter finish colors over an even gray undercoat.

For examples of my results, see the photos of painted Westerfield Santa Fe boxcars in my February "Model Railroader" article, or the Sunshine Swift reefer in the "Andy S freight cars" album in the photo section of the Yahoo STMFC Web pages.

So long,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
Executive Editor
Model Railroader magazine
asperandeo@...
262-796-8776, ext. 461
FAX 262-796-1142


Re: Waddell Coal Hopper

Schuyler Larrabee
 

So, finally, somebody refers to photos. Are there any on line?



SGL



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Bill
Schneider
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 8:42 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Waddell Coal Hopper





Yep, was for real.

From memory, the Waddell Coal Company of Scranton, PA had five cars, all
ex-O&W, and at least four of which were painted orange. The cars were two
bays of (I believe) the 1905 standard design, but are quite close to the
USRA in profile. FWIW, the graphics on the car are spot on (if I say so
myself - I did them!), including the backwards "X" in one of the reporting
marks.

The big question is whether these ever got off home rails (which in this
case would have been NYO&W). There are several photos of them in Scranton,
and one that I am reasonably confident of in Middletown NY (it's in a train
at a steep angle, but there are only so many orange two bay hoppers to
choose from). My personal guess is that they were used to deliver coal from
Waddell's breaker to regional dealers and didn't stray too far.

Bill Schneider
http://home.comcast.net/~oandw/

From: ford.donald77
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 12:49 AM
To: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Waddell Coal Hopper

I found an Old & Weary Waddell Coal Company hopper that I had forgotten
about. It was a gift and the person who gave it thought it was CUTE!
Is it for real? The WDLX reporting marks were used in 1/1952-10/1957 by
Waddell Coal but I don't have a ORER for that time period. The model is an
Accurail USRA 50-ton 2 bay. Is that close or will I be wasting my time
giving it the detail treatment, wire grabs, brake rigging and stuff.
Thanks beforehand
Don Ford
Kanab UT









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Re: Waddell Coal Hopper

Benjamin Hom
 

Bob Karig wrote:
"The models were so popular that the Old & Weary Car Shop added a couple of car numbers, which
had no prototype equivalent, to satisfy the demand of those modelers who wanted a fleet of
these cars."

Like the decal renumbering sets for Accurail's Rutland 7999?
(Sorry, Dennis.)


Ben Hom


Re: Waddell Coal Hopper

Bill Schneider
 

Yep, was for real.

From memory, the Waddell Coal Company of Scranton, PA had five cars, all ex-O&W, and at least four of which were painted orange. The cars were two bays of (I believe) the 1905 standard design, but are quite close to the USRA in profile. FWIW, the graphics on the car are spot on (if I say so myself - I did them!), including the backwards "X" in one of the reporting marks.

The big question is whether these ever got off home rails (which in this case would have been NYO&W). There are several photos of them in Scranton, and one that I am reasonably confident of in Middletown NY (its in a train at a steep angle, but there are only so many orange two bay hoppers to choose from). My personal guess is that they were used to deliver coal from Waddell's breaker to regional dealers and didn't stray too far.

Bill Schneider
http://home.comcast.net/~oandw/


From: ford.donald77
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 12:49 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Waddell Coal Hopper



I found an Old & Weary Wallde Coal Company hopper that I had forgotten about. It was a gift and the person who gave it thought it was CUTE!
Is it for real? The WDLX reporting marks were used in 1/1952-10/1957 by Waddell Coal but I don't have a ORER for that time period. The model is an Accurail USRA 50-ton 2 bay. Is that close or will I be wasting my time giving it the detail treatment, wire grabs, brake rigging and stuff.
Thanks before hand
Don Ford
Kanab UT


Re: Waddell Coal Hopper

bob_karig <karig@...>
 

The models were so popular that the Old & Weary Car Shop added a couple of car numbers, which had no prototype equivalent, to satisfy the demand of those modelers who wanted a fleet of these cars.

Bob Karig


Re: Waddell Coal Hopper

William Bryk <wmbryk@...>
 

As Mr. Karig has literally written the book on hopper cars, I stand
corrected.

Regards,
William Bryk

On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 7:48 AM, William Bryk <wmbryk@...> wrote:

It was one of a half-dozen second-hand hoppers, ex-NYO&W, that Waddell
repaired and painted bright orange as an advertising scheme. As I recall,
the years of usage are accurate: they were used during the Fifties, after
the Old Woman had scrapped her steamers.

Regards,
William Bryk


On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 12:49 AM, ford.donald77 <ford.donald77@...>wrote:



I found an Old & Weary Wallde Coal Company hopper that I had forgotten
about. It was a gift and the person who gave it thought it was CUTE!
Is it for real? The WDLX reporting marks were used in 1/1952-10/1957 by
Waddell Coal but I don't have a ORER for that time period. The model is an
Accurail USRA 50-ton 2 bay. Is that close or will I be wasting my time
giving it the detail treatment, wire grabs, brake rigging and stuff.
Thanks before hand
Don Ford
Kanab UT



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Waddell Coal Hopper

bob_karig <karig@...>
 

There were four Waddell hopper cars sold to that compamy by the New York, Ontario & Western in 1951. The paint scheme on the Old and Weary Car Shop cars is accurate. However, the original cars were, what I refer to as, the 1905 Common Design. The models from the Car Shop use the Accurail USRA model, because no one, HINT, no one, makes a model of the 1905 Common Design hopper car.

The Waddell cars were numbered 101 to 104. Three of the four had had twelve inch side extensions added to increase their capacity. It is unlikely that these cars ever left the line, but they do look good.

Bob Karig


Re: Waddell Coal Hopper

William Bryk <wmbryk@...>
 

It was one of a half-dozen second-hand hoppers, ex-NYO&W, that Waddell
repaired and painted bright orange as an advertising scheme. As I recall,
the years of usage are accurate: they were used during the Fifties, after
the Old Woman had scrapped her steamers.

Regards,
William Bryk

On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 12:49 AM, ford.donald77 <ford.donald77@...>wrote:



I found an Old & Weary Wallde Coal Company hopper that I had forgotten
about. It was a gift and the person who gave it thought it was CUTE!
Is it for real? The WDLX reporting marks were used in 1/1952-10/1957 by
Waddell Coal but I don't have a ORER for that time period. The model is an
Accurail USRA 50-ton 2 bay. Is that close or will I be wasting my time
giving it the detail treatment, wire grabs, brake rigging and stuff.
Thanks before hand
Don Ford
Kanab UT



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Waddell Coal Hopper

Malcolm H. Houck
 

From memory, the Waddell Coal Company of Scranton, PA
had five cars, all ex-O&W, and at least four of which
were painted orange.


Waddell Coal had a breaker located in Winton, PA, right
on the Scranton Division main line of the NYO&W. However,
the breaker was served by Wilkes Barre & Eastern branch
of the NYS&W, until the Erie (and correspondingly,
the NYS&W) gave up on the WB&E when the original
lease was up ca, 1939.

The Waddell Breaker soldiered on while being served by
the NYO&W until that line quit in 1957. After that, and for
what little business was still at hand Waddell Coal survived
by processing out the immense culm bank located on the east
side of the former O&W ROW. Much of the later work, through
the 1970's was part of a Federal and Pennsylvania Department
of Surface Mining sponsored reclamation program (which did
indeed rid the region of many, many eyesore culm banks and
slack dumps).

Waddell used trucks to deliver out its reprocessed "fines," much
of which went for use as boiler coal....with some quantity, I'm informed,
exported to Canada for use as power plant "Steam Coal."

The Waddell - Winton breaker was still operating in 1974 but,
interestingly, had suffered a fire which only burned off the skin
and sheathing. To view it from atop the former WB&E bridge
abutments was to see a breaker in operation with all the shakers
and conveyors in operation.

Although, as Bill Schneider mentions, there is at least one
identifiable color image of that which appears to be a
Waddell hopper in a freight consist, but there others
showing Waddell cars posed on a coal trestle. One
persistent rumor is that several of these cars were only
painted on one side, and then displayed by Waddell at
a dealer / distributor as a fashion of billboard and
advertisement -- all quite unsubstantiated.

Mal Houck


Re: Painting Resin Freight Car Kits

Bill Welch
 

I do not use a primer with resin or styrene kits, and use almost exclusively Modelflex or Polyscale paints. My routine for the last 3-4 years is Media Blasting the finished model with Baking Soda before washing w/Dawn or Ivory. Sometimes even after this I brush the model with rubbing alcohol and dry it with the airbrush immediately before spraying it with paint.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., "Rob & Bev Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote:

PAul,
I always wash my sheets of castings with Dawn detergent and a little BArkeepers Friend cleanser before separating and sanding the parts. I use a nail board with different grits equal to 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800 that I buy at Walgreens for about $100.00 each. I sand the mating edges to break the glossy back surface and sand (even the tiny ones) parts to remove the flash the X-acto won't get. Walgreens or Home Depot ACC works for me and when fresh is as good as the hobby shop brands.
When assembled I gve the car a bath again with dawn and a toothbrush or a 3/4" wide artist oil painter brush. I don't submerge the car so no water enters the body. let dry or coax some of the water away with a hair dryer being careful to not warp the body. I spray all my models with Poly Scale waterbase with no primer. Most of the boxcar colors don't need a primer to neutralize the plastic and resin parts and cover quite well. Glosscoat with Pledge/Future floor acrylic polish and decal per MIcroscale instructions. Flat finish with Poly Scale Flat or MIcroscale flat.
DONE.

Rob


----- Original Message -----
From: behillman
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 7:46 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Painting Resin Freight Car Kits



I'm building my first resin STMFC freight car kit, a Funaro & Camerlengo. (I've built & painted resin building kits in the past)

F&C says the car is made from, "Polycarbonate Resin".

F&C says to, "wash with a cleaning agent for urethanes, or household cleaner, IE) 'Shout' "

My question is, for a really fine paint-job with RR water-based paints, what are the groups basic recommendations.

Is a primer recommended.

Thanks, Paul Hillman





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Painting Resin Freight Car Kits

Stokes John
 

Pretty pricey nail file boards, must give a really good finish. :).

John S.

To: STMFC@...
From: robev1630@...
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 23:23:43 -0600
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Painting Resin Freight Car Kits




























PAul,

I always wash my sheets of castings with Dawn detergent and a little BArkeepers Friend cleanser before separating and sanding the parts. I use a nail board with different grits equal to 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800 that I buy at Walgreens for about $100.00 each. I sand the mating edges to break the glossy back surface and sand (even the tiny ones) parts to remove the flash the X-acto won't get. Walgreens or Home Depot ACC works for me and when fresh is as good as the hobby shop brands.

When assembled I gve the car a bath again with dawn and a toothbrush or a 3/4" wide artist oil painter brush. I don't submerge the car so no water enters the body. let dry or coax some of the water away with a hair dryer being careful to not warp the body. I spray all my models with Poly Scale waterbase with no primer. Most of the boxcar colors don't need a primer to neutralize the plastic and resin parts and cover quite well. Glosscoat with Pledge/Future floor acrylic polish and decal per MIcroscale instructions. Flat finish with Poly Scale Flat or MIcroscale flat.

DONE.



Rob


Waddell Coal Hopper

ford.donald77 <ford.donald77@...>
 

I found an Old & Weary Wallde Coal Company hopper that I had forgotten about. It was a gift and the person who gave it thought it was CUTE!
Is it for real? The WDLX reporting marks were used in 1/1952-10/1957 by Waddell Coal but I don't have a ORER for that time period. The model is an Accurail USRA 50-ton 2 bay. Is that close or will I be wasting my time giving it the detail treatment, wire grabs, brake rigging and stuff.
Thanks before hand
Don Ford
Kanab UT


Re: Is Tenax 7R Gone?

Rob & Bev Manley
 

Try Weldon #3. THere are a few different formulas they have that are used in the exhibit / sign industry that also work on ABS or Plexi.

Rob Manley

----- Original Message -----
From: Kurt Laughlin
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Is Tenax 7R Gone?



In short, B.S.

Here's the original thread from August:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47211/thread/1249572249/lll

The "story" was that somebody - somebody predisposed to believe that the
libber'l Gummint and the gawddamm tree huggers are out to destroy the
country - heard third hand that it had been banned. Once posted, they were
off to the races.

A few days later somebody ruined all the fun by actually contacting the
manufacturer:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47211/thread/1250715327/Tenax+is+back-----+turns+out+they+never+went+anywhere%21

I have not heard anything since.

KL

----- Original Message -----
From: lnbill

I have seen some posts on Military Modeling sites alluding to Tenax 7R,
which was distributed from Hohenwald, TN disappearing from the market.


Re: Painting Resin Freight Car Kits

Rob & Bev Manley
 

PAul,
I always wash my sheets of castings with Dawn detergent and a little BArkeepers Friend cleanser before separating and sanding the parts. I use a nail board with different grits equal to 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800 that I buy at Walgreens for about $100.00 each. I sand the mating edges to break the glossy back surface and sand (even the tiny ones) parts to remove the flash the X-acto won't get. Walgreens or Home Depot ACC works for me and when fresh is as good as the hobby shop brands.
When assembled I gve the car a bath again with dawn and a toothbrush or a 3/4" wide artist oil painter brush. I don't submerge the car so no water enters the body. let dry or coax some of the water away with a hair dryer being careful to not warp the body. I spray all my models with Poly Scale waterbase with no primer. Most of the boxcar colors don't need a primer to neutralize the plastic and resin parts and cover quite well. Glosscoat with Pledge/Future floor acrylic polish and decal per MIcroscale instructions. Flat finish with Poly Scale Flat or MIcroscale flat.
DONE.

Rob

----- Original Message -----
From: behillman
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 7:46 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Painting Resin Freight Car Kits



I'm building my first resin STMFC freight car kit, a Funaro & Camerlengo. (I've built & painted resin building kits in the past)

F&C says the car is made from, "Polycarbonate Resin".

F&C says to, "wash with a cleaning agent for urethanes, or household cleaner, IE) 'Shout' "

My question is, for a really fine paint-job with RR water-based paints, what are the groups basic recommendations.

Is a primer recommended.

Thanks, Paul Hillman


Re: Painting Resin Freight Car Kits

pierreoliver2003 <pierre.oliver@...>
 

I prewash all my resin kits with Shout. I've always been reluctant to go near a finished model with any cleaning items and it works for me. Mind you I do not use acrylics unless I absolutely have to.(For a particular colour) I find that acrylics can be troublesome with adhering to resin.
If you've had success with resin structures then you should have no problems with freight cars.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., "behillman" <chris_hillman@...> wrote:

I'm building my first resin STMFC freight car kit, a Funaro & Camerlengo. (I've built & painted resin building kits in the past)

F&C says the car is made from, "Polycarbonate Resin".

F&C says to, "wash with a cleaning agent for urethanes, or household cleaner, IE) 'Shout' "

My question is, for a really fine paint-job with RR water-based paints, what are the groups basic recommendations.

Is a primer recommended.

Thanks, Paul Hillman


Re: Painting Resin Freight Car Kits

Bruce Smith
 

"behillman" <chris_hillman@...> 02/25/10 7:55 PM >>>
I'm building my first resin STMFC freight car kit, a Funaro &
Camerlengo. (I've built & painted resin building kits in the past)

F&C says the car is made from, "Polycarbonate Resin".

F&C says to, "wash with a cleaning agent for urethanes, or household
cleaner, IE) 'Shout' "

My question is, for a really fine paint-job with RR water-based paints,
what are the groups basic recommendations.

Is a primer recommended.

Thanks, Paul Hillman

Paul,

It is always a good idea to wash cars prior to painting to remove finger
prints and dirt. Some companies also use mold release, but many do not.
I usually grit blast my cars, then wash in warm water and DAWN dish
detergent. I try to remove as much water as possible, then air dry,
under cover, to keep dust off and only handle the car subsequently with
nitrile (a substitute for latex) gloves.

As for primer, there technically aren't any available in the model paint
lines (Floquil "Primer" is not really a "primer"). It may be useful to
paint an initial base coat of grey, for example, if you are painting a
light color, like yellow, but otherwise I don't bother.

Also, technically, what you call "water based paints" are not really
that. They are still solvent based, however the solvent, usually
alcohol, is water soluble, allowing thinning and clean up using water.
I use a number of brands of these paints (acrylics) with excellent
results on resin cars. If you have not painted with them before, they
do not behave the same ways as enamels so be forewarned...

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Painting Resin Freight Car Kits

Paul Hillman
 

I'm building my first resin STMFC freight car kit, a Funaro & Camerlengo. (I've built & painted resin building kits in the past)

F&C says the car is made from, "Polycarbonate Resin".

F&C says to, "wash with a cleaning agent for urethanes, or household cleaner, IE) 'Shout' "

My question is, for a really fine paint-job with RR water-based paints, what are the groups basic recommendations.

Is a primer recommended.

Thanks, Paul Hillman


Re: Is Tenax 7R Gone?

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

In short, B.S.

Here's the original thread from August:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47211/thread/1249572249/lll

The "story" was that somebody - somebody predisposed to believe that the libber'l Gummint and the gawddamm tree huggers are out to destroy the country - heard third hand that it had been banned. Once posted, they were off to the races.

A few days later somebody ruined all the fun by actually contacting the manufacturer:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47211/thread/1250715327/Tenax+is+back-----+turns+out+they+never+went+anywhere%21

I have not heard anything since.

KL

----- Original Message -----
From: lnbill

I have seen some posts on Military Modeling sites alluding to Tenax 7R, which was distributed from Hohenwald, TN disappearing from the market.

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